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Brush Paint - Acrylic or Enamel

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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: portland oregon area
Posted by starduster on Thursday, March 4, 2010 3:14 PM

   Thank you sir, I'll try Humbrol paints.  Karl

photograph what intrests you today.....because tomorrow it may not exist.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, March 4, 2010 1:32 PM

Karl, for a dead flat finish, my best luck has been with Humbrols. Stir them thoroughly and you will get one coat dead flat coverage in almost every color (some of the lightest colors may need a second coat). Tamiya gives the next best choice, but their difficulties in handbrushing are well known. If you will be doing all your figure work with an airbrush this will not be a problem for you, but their limited selection of colors may be.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: portland oregon area
Posted by starduster on Thursday, March 4, 2010 1:14 PM

  What would be the best flat paint to use for figure models ? I'd like to give the pants and shirts a realistic look no gloss at all, most figure modelers use a non realistic sheen on clothing, I like to use an airbrush with acrylics, any informantion would be great. thanks.  Karl 

photograph what intrests you today.....because tomorrow it may not exist.
  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Posted by Griffin on Wednesday, January 6, 2010 1:02 PM

I used to have a collection of GW paints. I may dig them up and give them a try too.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posted by zokissima on Wednesday, January 6, 2010 8:49 AM

If you were involved in miniatures painting beforehand, you may be familiar with Citadel paint, primarily used by Warhammer war gamers. I find this paint to be the best for brush painting.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Posted by Griffin on Tuesday, January 5, 2010 8:33 AM

Cool - thanks guys.

I'll let you know once I give the Vallejo a try!

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Piscataway,NJ
Posted by jtrace214 on Monday, January 4, 2010 11:20 PM

Yes defintly use distilled water or their stuff I know from experience lol

 

John

the pic to the left is my weekend condo lol

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, January 4, 2010 4:21 PM

Griffin
Has anyone tried thinning the Vallejos with Tamiya thinner?

Thin Vallejo with their own thinner or distilled water. Tamiya thinner or alcohol will turn the pain into something resembling cottage cheese. Dead

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Posted by Griffin on Monday, January 4, 2010 3:34 PM

Thanks for the input all. I have some Vallejo Model Colors and I picked up a black one today to try out. I'm in the midst of a heap of flat black painting right now so I figured I would pick up the Vallejo black and start there.

I think the tips here will help though. Yes

Has anyone tried thinning the Vallejos with Tamiya thinner?

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Piscataway,NJ
Posted by jtrace214 on Sunday, January 3, 2010 10:19 PM

I have always used Model master or Humbrol. But last summer on a whim I bought some Vellijo and I like them to I just thin them and use 2 coats and I have no roll up problems.I haven't used Tamyia paints in years(used to like to airbrush them), All I can say is experiment on scrap till you find a brand you like. I still even have some Pollys,Testors square bottles and a few Pactra left that I still use.

 

John

the pic to the left is my weekend condo lol

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Fullerton, Calif.
Posted by Don Wheeler on Sunday, January 3, 2010 9:43 PM

Griffin

I am working on a Testor's Dodge Viper model and I  plan to learn how to air brush on the body but I am brush painting the rest (especially the detail work.

If you really mean that, you may be headed for a disappointment.  I strongly recommend you practice on some junk plastic like empty bottles until you get a feel for the airbrush.

Don

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

A collection of airbrush tips and reviews

Also an Amazon E-book and paperback of tips.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Sunday, January 3, 2010 9:42 PM

If you are brush painting and want to use acrylics, try Vallejo Model Color. These are some of the best paints for brush painting that I have ever used. They do need to be thinned, and ideally should be applied over a primer, but can be over-coated in minutes (essentially when "touch dry" without any ill effects.

If you do want to use Tamiya acrylics, thin the paint approximately 30-40% with Tamiya thinner, pre-moisten your brush with thinner, paint short, even strokes and do not overpaint previously covered areas until fully cured. One coat, one coat only. Leave overnight to cure and recoat.

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Sunday, January 3, 2010 9:31 PM

Tamiya Acrylic paint for all intents and purposes cannot be brush painted without rolling up. My opinion is to NEVER use acrylic paint to brush paint. Always use enamels for this.

 

Humbrol is fantastic for brush painting. Maybe the best made. You do have to let Humbrol dry overnight however as it takes longer to dry. The pigments are finer. You must also learn to thoroughly mix it, every time you use it, and even during use. The Humbrol matts are absolutely dead flat, unlike Testors flats.

Model Master enamel would be my second choice for brush painting and is more readily available than Humbrol.

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, January 3, 2010 9:14 PM

For brush painting, my favorite brand to use are Humbrol enamels. They can not be beat when stirred properly. One coat coverage with no brush marks in almost every case. No acrylics come clsoe anymore with the demise of the old Polly S line. Most other acrylics either dry too quickly and roll up during painting- Tamiya, Gunze, or requirea  second coat- Vallejo, Polly Scale, Model Master acryl. 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Sunday, January 3, 2010 8:02 PM

Tamiya's are more difficult to brush paint than other brands. It can be done, but it requires some practice before perfection is possible. Even I, as dedicated a Tamiya Acrylic paint user as any, admit Tamiya rolls up wet paint. I've heard nothing but good things about Vallejo Model paints (not the "Air" paint, those are for airbrushing) for hand brushing. Mind you, I've not tried them, as I'm a masochist and persevere with Tamiya. As I airbrush most often, that's pretty easy to do.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Edmonton, Alberta
Brush Paint - Acrylic or Enamel
Posted by Griffin on Sunday, January 3, 2010 7:50 PM

I am getting back into the hobby after SEVERAL years' hiatus. I did quite a bit of miniature painting but it's been about six years since that even.

I am working on a Testor's Dodge Viper model and I  plan to learn how to air brush on the body but I am brush painting the rest (especially the detail work.

Today I was getting tons of roll-up with my Tamiya acrylics. I have access to many brands as Edmonton has a ton of hobby stores.

Does anyone have any suggestions for what type of paint I should use for brush painting, enamel ot acrylic?

Thanks!

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