Paasche HSSB-22-16 Spraybooth

I have one and wouldn't want to be without it.  When I first started airbrushing I made a DIY spray booth from cardboard and it worked fine but eventually upgraded to the Paasche and never looked back.  I got it for about $200 on eBay if I recall.  For lighting I bought a battery-operated fluoresecent lamp (approx. 10" long x 2" x 2")  and affixed it to the top front of the booth with velcro (so it is facing down into the booth).  The light had a DC input so I was able to connect an AC adapter to it so I wouldn't have to use batteries.  Provides nice even lighting inside the entire booth without getting in the way of anything and only cost about 15 bucks including the adapter.  The other nice thing about the Paasche is it disassembles easily so you can store it flat when not in use to save space.  I have mine sitting on a Black & Decker Workmate with the back end pointed straight out the window.  Works great for containing overspray and venting paint fumes and particles to the outside, but obviously you should still wear a respirator mask to keep the nasty stuff out of your lungs.

Kizzy:

Thanks for the reply.  Part of me wants to DIY it, yet my time is limited even for modeling at this point. I don't want to make woodworking my hobby also. Your info is most helpful. Have a good one.

Brad 

I started out with a DIY cardboard spraybooth with no way to get rid of fumes - got to say I eneded up with terrible headaches after spraying.  Then I decided to do another DIY in plexiglass - I figured I could do it cheaper than what was commercially available.  I drew up some plans and started pricing things out - couldn't believe how much an explosion proof fan (highly recommended for safety) cost!  Turns out that the Paasche is a good deal for the money.

In the end I bought the Paashe!  I must admit I haven't used it yet - too many hobbies, too little time.  But once I opened up the box, I knew I'd made the right choice.  It's well made, easy to assembe and has a nice fan.  I have a 15" flourescent light that I sealed (to protect the ballast) drilled holes and mounted with self tapping screws to the top.

Just my

Rich:

Thanks man. Once you add up all of the time and money for materials, I'm not  so sure you come out that far ahead with a DIY booth. The lack of lighting was my major issue with the Paasche but it seems like you have taken care of that problem. I appreciate the help.

Brad

You're very welcome.  Just "Paying it Forward" ...I've gotten so much from other people on this site, it's good to be able to give back a little!

Went to Paasche's site and looked at the booth.  This looks like a nice unit.  With a face area of 2.4 square feet, a 270cfm fan will provide better than the recommended 100fpm velocity, plus it's deep enough to provide more linear airflow and increased fan efficiency.

Kizzy

 Works great for containing overspray and venting paint fumes and particles to the outside, but obviously you should still wear a respirator mask to keep the nasty stuff out of your lungs.

If the booth is functioning properly, a respirator is not necessary.

Gip

Hey Gip, what do you think about the CFM rating of my spraybooth?

I know you will say it needs more covering on the sides and top and I agree and am considering making some cardboard sides or something for it.

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/banewhospbo.html

MikeV

Hey Gip, what do you think about the CFM rating of my spraybooth?

I know you will say it needs more covering on the sides and top and I agree and am considering making some cardboard sides or something for it.

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/banewhospbo.html

Mike,

Thanks for the link.  I looked at the booth and, as you say, it needs a little something.  Face area works out to 1.76 square feet, which would mean that at least a 175 cfm fan would be needed; however, from a design perspective, I think the general idea is that the model is moved as close to the face as is practical, and then spraying commences, with the overspray going directly into the filter.  There are some issues, however, with that setup.  First would appear to be the presumption that most spraying is going to be completely horizontal in nature and toward the filter.  That would be OK, except I think most modelers don't spray that way all the time, so particulate/vapor capture becomes more "difficult" when spraying outside of perpendicular.  Second, and probably most important, at least IMHO, is the top and side design.  The short of it is this:  most of the airflow is going to come around the sides of the booth and into the filter.  Most of the airflow won't be used for capture.  I see this constantly in welding applications.  Remind me, and I'll calculate the 100 fpm capture distance for that booth for you.

You are correct; for the booth to be more efficient, the airflow has to become more linear.  In order to be more linear, the booth needs to be deeper.  There is a calculation to determine booth depth.  Trouble is, I can't remember it (that's old age for you), and my references aren't at hand.  If you're interested in how long the sides and tops need to be, email me, and I'll get you the info.

Interestingly, with the given face area, that 162 cfm fan will provide you over 90fpm of capture velocity, which is considered acceptable.  Get the sides and top on and you'll notice some improvement in overall ventilation efficiency!

Hope this helps you some

Blessings, my friend

Gip

Thanks Gip.

The only problem I have with extending the sides is that it makes for a small booth for anything bigger than 1/48 WWII aircraft.