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HawkeyeHobbies Scrape, sand, pick and deburr. The back side of a #11 blade makes a great scraper, don't use the cutting side, it only dulls your blade and can lead to an accidental slice in either the model or you.
Scrape, sand, pick and deburr. The back side of a #11 blade makes a great scraper, don't use the cutting side, it only dulls your blade and can lead to an accidental slice in either the model or you.
I too find it dulls edge quickly. So I use a second handle with an old blade just for scraping. It hangs right above the "cutting" blade on the back of my bench. When I replace a blade in the cutting knife, I move that old blade to the scraping knife. Handles are cheap these days.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Great suggestions. Thanks!
Has anyone used one of these?
Mission Models Micro Chisel
http://www.missionmodels.com/product.php?productid=16464
In addition to a hobby knife and de-burring tools, this sounds like it could also be useful.
In my blog recently I showed how I remove paint using deburring tools like the dentist uses on your teeth to remove paint from tight or irregular shaped places that can't be accessed with a knife or scraper.
Modeling Tip: Deburring Paint
Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt
http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/
"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."
I always mask the edges of parts that will be glued, for example fuselage halves of an aircraft when painting the interior. If I do have any paint, I also use the knife blade procedure. Solvent glues should never be osed on painted surfaces. CA can be used, but the bond will only be as good as the paint adhesion.
Regards, Rick
Aaronw I just use a knife blade to scrape away paint. If the blade is nearly perpendicular to the piece it should just scrape away a very thin layer and won't gouge into the plastic, in fact it frequently takes several passes just to scape off a little paint.
I just use a knife blade to scrape away paint. If the blade is nearly perpendicular to the piece it should just scrape away a very thin layer and won't gouge into the plastic, in fact it frequently takes several passes just to scape off a little paint.
That is my normal method too. However, in certain cases, like a recessed surface, or any place I see it will be difficult to scrape, I frequently mask that surface before painting. I also keep a small, cheap screwdriver on my bench just for scraping recessed areas (use it just like the knife blade- pull it along perpendicular to the surace).
I never glue painted surfaces. While solvent cements may etch through a thin paint layer, CA will NOT.
Likewise to Aaronw, I have always scraped paint of with a craft knife - with the knife at right angle to the surface it is very easy to remove the paint without taking any plastic as well.
WWW.AIR-CRAFT.NET
I have been airbrushing a few pieces of a model assembly (some black, some gold) with Tamiya acrylics, and it is now time to glue the assembly together. I am going to be using Testors Liquid Cement (black bottle, red label).
There was a bit of overspray along the edges in the areas where the pieces fit together, so I am wondering if it is best to first scrape or in some way remove the paint from those areas before applying the glue? Or will the glue work fine as is, with no scraping? Even though it is a very thin layer of airbrushed paint, if I opt to leave the paint there prior to gluing, it seems it could cause a mess.
If paint removal is necessary, what tools are best for this purpose? I suppose I could use a scrubber sponge, or maybe the edge of a flathead screwdriver, but is there something a bit more precise avaiable? Is there a known technique that works well for removing paint from specific areas without disturbing the good areas of paint?
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