Airbrush Features

Thanks Keilau, and call me Bill, everyone else does!

Bgrigg

This is why coming up with a user guide is going to be tough! We need to decide if this is going to be a guide for everybody, which means categorizing airbrushes from novices to experts. I thought this was to be for novices, and I wouldn't recommend a high end brush for a novice.  I made the leap into a dual action airbrush, and the learning curve was is fairly steep. It wasn't until I bought a VERY cheap external mix that I gained the knowledge and confidence to actually USE my 100LG. The more I think about this, the more I lean towards steering people to the Badger 200 series. The 200G can do anything my 100LG can, except alter the line width while spraying.

Anyway, back onto the subject of the guide. I might be biting off more than I can chew, but my vision is to include pictures of the airbrushes, and see what info I can get from the manufacturers. I've already emailed Iwata, Paasche and Badger looking for their permission to use their images and logos, and have even received an yes answer from Ken at Badger, along with some information on the different airbrushes they make. He is very interested in the outcome!

I'm even thinking that it would be nice to turn it into a website, and see where that goes. So, if anyone wants to send me their opinions on their airbrushes, let's get moving!

Bgrigg,

Like most "user survey", it will be statistical in nature and potentially come from a diverse of opinion. It there are enough responses, a pattern will emerge to give both new and experienced user some guidance.

I will start another thread and send you my opinion on the airbrushes that I have tonight. I will quote and link to this post.

Bgrigg

This is why coming up with a user guide is going to be tough! We need to decide if this is going to be a guide for everybody, which means categorizing airbrushes from novices to experts. I thought this was to be for novices, and I wouldn't recommend a high end brush for a novice.  I made the leap into a dual action airbrush, and the learning curve was is fairly steep. It wasn't until I bought a VERY cheap external mix that I gained the knowledge and confidence to actually USE my 100LG. The more I think about this, the more I lean towards steering people to the Badger 200 series. The 200G can do anything my 100LG can, except alter the line width while spraying.

Anyway, back onto the subject of the guide. I might be biting off more than I can chew, but my vision is to include pictures of the airbrushes, and see what info I can get from the manufacturers. I've already emailed Iwata, Paasche and Badger looking for their permission to use their images and logos, and have even received an yes answer from Ken at Badger, along with some information on the different airbrushes they make. He is very interested in the outcome!

I'm even thinking that it would be nice to turn it into a website, and see where that goes. So, if anyone wants to send me their opinions on their airbrushes, let's get moving!

 

Exactly why I said, "good luck" in a previous post Bill. There are few real "experts" and many more with an opinion so that it makes it virtually impossible to come up with something of real value to the airbrush user or potential user looking for good advice.

No problem, always happy to help!

Bgrigg, Yes the direct link works & I have just tried moving from page 2>3 & 4>3 where the problem previously was (most of today) & it is no longer present.

Ghost's in the machine I suspect - thanks for you assistance.

Let's see if a direct link works for you.

/forums/t/125261.aspx?PageIndex=3

And while our papers all have a page numbered 3, it's certainly nothing like the infamous The Sun "Page 3". There are a few papers in Canada (Calgary Sun, Edmonton Sun, Winnipeg Sun, Ottawa Sun & Toronto Sun) all of whom have their SUNshine girls, but only bikini shots. Oddly, the Vancouver Sun doesn't have one. Must have too many feminists living there!

And a warning to anyone who decides to google page 3, it's most certainly NSFW, NSFK and your wife might have a strong opinion, as well!

Bgrigg

Which page 3 are you clicking on, the one at the top or the bottom of the page?

I'm using Billy Boys IE & using the page links at the bottom, no other issues on FSM, just page 3 of this article.

** You would think I was a feminist ranting on about my issue with page 3 - mind you, on saying that do you guys have page 3 over there?

No, opens fine for me. Which page 3 are you clicking on, the one at the top or the bottom of the page? I find that mostly the page numbers at the top do not work with Firefox.

Is anyone else having an issue loading page 3 of this rather interesting thread?

I suspect it may be connected to an image or attachment, but I cannot get the page to load.

This is why coming up with a user guide is going to be tough! We need to decide if this is going to be a guide for everybody, which means categorizing airbrushes from novices to experts. I thought this was to be for novices, and I wouldn't recommend a high end brush for a novice.  I made the leap into a dual action airbrush, and the learning curve was is fairly steep. It wasn't until I bought a VERY cheap external mix that I gained the knowledge and confidence to actually USE my 100LG. The more I think about this, the more I lean towards steering people to the Badger 200 series. The 200G can do anything my 100LG can, except alter the line width while spraying.

Anyway, back onto the subject of the guide. I might be biting off more than I can chew, but my vision is to include pictures of the airbrushes, and see what info I can get from the manufacturers. I've already emailed Iwata, Paasche and Badger looking for their permission to use their images and logos, and have even received an yes answer from Ken at Badger, along with some information on the different airbrushes they make. He is very interested in the outcome!

I'm even thinking that it would be nice to turn it into a website, and see where that goes. So, if anyone wants to send me their opinions on their airbrushes, let's get moving!

Bgrigg

Keilau, this appears to contradict your earlier statement:

While the dollar value of the Velocity is only $20 more than the Patriot, the finer tip may cause untold frustration to a modeler who doesn't thin their paints enough, or attempts to spray the large pigments of a metallic paint through it. IMHO the average modeler is better off with the more forgiving medium size needle. Sometimes simpler is better.

 

I agree with that for AVERAGE modeler like myself. See my exchange with MilAirJunkie below.

keilau

Milairjunkie:

 

keilau:

Some new airbrush users mistakenly believe that the smaller the nozzle, the better. It may be true for artist or bike finisher who wants details. It is not true for modelers.

I found that the 0.35-0.5 mm nozzle are optimal for me for modeling. I have to use lower pressure and thinner paints for smaller nozzle. It takes too many misty coats to get good coverage. It is inconvenient for modeling.

I dont disagree that this works for you, but I use my 0.2 more often than my 0.4 set up as I feel it works better for what I do (mainly 1/72). I also use 1.5 for detailing, the spray "cone" of the 1.5 is so fine that I can do really small details with minimal or no masking - where both the 2.0 & 4.0 would either have wrecked the job or taken considerable masking.

I am a modeler & I have found smaller combinations to be "true", I also find the using smaller set ups on occasion far less inconvinient that going on a maskathon for smaller detail.

Milairjunkie, I don't believe that we have a disagreement here. The optimal nozzle (or airbrush) depends on the user, the paint, the way he paints and the model scale.

I airbrush acrylic paint almost exclusively because I do not have an indoor airbrush spray booth. I use Tamiya mostly with a few MM and Gunze due to convenience of LHS locations. When I first switch from a Paasche H to the Iwata HP-CS, it took me a while to figure out the optimal thinning ratio and pressure setting to get the finish that I like. And I got tip dry occasionally when I did not thin enough. It was never difficult to get a even color coverage from any AB, but getting the right kind of surface finish smoothness and shine is different.

I build 1:48 jet mostly, occasional 1:32 older aircrafts and ships. I have a few 1:16 tanks too. It is a matter of convenience to lay down a solid color over a relatively large area when smoothness such as that on an armor is not as critical. A 0.5 mm nozzle allows for that and it also should work better with metallic paints.

I fully realize that modeler using enamel paint and work on smaller scale model will have a very different experience than mine. That's why we are here to share.

Keilau, this appears to contradict your earlier statement:

keilau

Some new airbrush users mistakenly believe that the smaller the nozzle, the better. It may be true for artist or bike finisher who wants details. It is not true for modelers.

I found that the 0.35-0.5 mm nozzle are optimal for me for modeling. I have to use lower pressure and thinner paints for smaller nozzle. It takes too many misty coats to get good coverage. It is inconvenient for modeling.

MikeV

Torio:

2°) I prefer the Velocity to the Patriot

 

I would agree with you on that although they are not in the same league so it's not really an apples to apples comparison.

Badger may have designed these airbrushes for different market. The street price (what a modeler typically pays) difference is no more than US$20 and both are well under $100 in US. There is no reason not go for the preferred AB.

Torio, how much you have to pay for the Velocity in France?

Torio, the price was at a hobby shop. It's full list and included taxes. I stretched my point to make my point, if you know what I mean.

Torio

2°) I prefer the Velocity to the Patriot

I would agree with you on that although they are not in the same league so it's not really an apples to apples comparison.

Alright, chaps, my own silly thoughts :

1°) I think a Custom Micron would do but I find it rather unadapted for the job (prefer the HPCH which is somehow "like")

2°) I prefer the Velocity to the Patriot

3°) Bgrigg, where did you find that a Harder & Steenbeck sold for $ 400 ? Even the Infinity does not reach this cost

Neddless to say that points 1 and 2 are most subjective.

Milairjunkie

keilau:

Some new airbrush users mistakenly believe that the smaller the nozzle, the better. It may be true for artist or bike finisher who wants details. It is not true for modelers.

I found that the 0.35-0.5 mm nozzle are optimal for me for modeling. I have to use lower pressure and thinner paints for smaller nozzle. It takes too many misty coats to get good coverage. It is inconvenient for modeling.

 

I dont disagree that this works for you, but I use my 0.2 more often than my 0.4 set up as I feel it works better for what I do (mainly 1/72). I also use 1.5 for detailing, the spray "cone" of the 1.5 is so fine that I can do really small details with minimal or no masking - where both the 2.0 & 4.0 would either have wrecked the job or taken considerable masking.

I am a modeler & I have found smaller combinations to be "true", I also find the using smaller set ups on occasion far less inconvinient that going on a maskathon for smaller detail.

Milairjunkie, I don't believe that we have a disagreement here. The optimal nozzle (or airbrush) depends on the user, the paint, the way he paints and the model scale.

I airbrush acrylic paint almost exclusively because I do not have an indoor airbrush spray booth. I use Tamiya mostly with a few MM and Gunze due to convenience of LHS locations. When I first switch from a Paasche H to the Iwata HP-CS, it took me a while to figure out the optimal thinning ratio and pressure setting to get the finish that I like. And I got tip dry occasionally when I did not thin enough. It was never difficult to get a even color coverage from any AB, but getting the right kind of surface finish smoothness and shine is different.

I build 1:48 jet mostly, occasional 1:32 older aircrafts and ships. I have a few 1:16 tanks too. It is a matter of convenience to lay down a solid color over a relatively large area when smoothness such as that on an armor is not as critical. A 0.5 mm nozzle allows for that and it also should work better with metallic paints.

I fully realize that modeler using enamel paint and work on smaller scale model will have a very different experience than mine. That's why we are here to share.

MikeV

archangel571:

MikeV:

Ryan,

Why another Velocity? Are you trying a different model?

I ordered the Fine tip, regulator, n needle parts intended for the rage with it, hoping to assemble something with larger nozzle to accept thicker paint.  I don't really care for bottom feeding ABs, even though I have 3...(the iwata BCS gets regular use for primer, the BC2 was just another impulse buy but what a solid built AB, and the Anthemn just happen to be one of my first ABs since the Aztek.), so I won't get the Rage.  I sure hope the needle bearing is the same size...

 

How about a Patriot 105? Have you tried one?

It is basically the Anthem 155 in a gravity feed model. I love mine and think it is going to become my workhorse airbrush which used to be my Omni 4000 which I still really like.

Or the Patriot 105 fine. With the fine nozzle, the Patriot 105 is an Anthem 3155 hybrid in gravity feed mode.

keilau

Some new airbrush users mistakenly believe that the smaller the nozzle, the better. It may be true for artist or bike finisher who wants details. It is not true for modelers.

I found that the 0.35-0.5 mm nozzle are optimal for me for modeling. I have to use lower pressure and thinner paints for smaller nozzle. It takes too many misty coats to get good coverage. It is inconvenient for modeling.

I dont disagree that this works for you, but I use my 0.2 more often than my 0.4 set up as I feel it works better for what I do (mainly 1/72). I also use 1.5 for detailing, the spray "cone" of the 1.5 is so fine that I can do really small details with minimal or no masking - where both the 2.0 & 4.0 would either have wrecked the job or taken considerable masking.

I am a modeler & I have found smaller combinations to be "true", I also find the using smaller set ups on occasion far less inconvinient that going on a maskathon for smaller detail.

MikeV

 

keilau:

 

 

Some new airbrush users mistakenly believe that the smaller the nozzle, the better. It may be true for artist or bike finisher who wants details. It is not true for modelers.

 

 

 

I debated this with someone recently on the ARC forum and they told me that if I haven't tried the Iwata Micron series personally then how could I say it is overkill or not worth the money?

I told them I have been airbrushing a long time and know some of the top experts in the country so I don't think my opinion is without merit. Neither Ken at Badger, Dave at Coast Airbrush or my friend who airbrushed for 40 years and has one of the largest collections of airbrushes I have ever seen would say that those airbrushes are worth the money on models with the paints we use.

I have heard people say they can spray Tamiya acrylics reliably through a Micron and I find that very hard to believe unless Tamiya paints have far finer paint pigments than I think they do.

I reckon you're on the money there Mike regarding the value of the Micron for modelling. I find that when spraying Tamiya metallic colours I can see a very noticeable performance difference between my HP-CS (.35mm) and my HP-CR (.5mm) with the HP-CR handling the job of spraying these larger pigments much better. I wouldn't fancy trying it with a Micron as I suspect it would just clog.

Cheers,

Snowy

keilau

Some new airbrush users mistakenly believe that the smaller the nozzle, the better. It may be true for artist or bike finisher who wants details. It is not true for modelers.

I debated this with someone recently on the ARC forum and they told me that if I haven't tried the Iwata Micron series personally then how could I say it is overkill or not worth the money?

I told them I have been airbrushing a long time and know some of the top experts in the country so I don't think my opinion is without merit. Neither Ken at Badger, Dave at Coast Airbrush or my friend who airbrushed for 40 years and has one of the largest collections of airbrushes I have ever seen would say that those airbrushes are worth the money on models with the paints we use.

I have heard people say they can spray Tamiya acrylics reliably through a Micron and I find that very hard to believe unless Tamiya paints have far finer paint pigments than I think they do.

archangel571

MikeV:

Ryan,

Why another Velocity? Are you trying a different model?

 

I ordered the Fine tip, regulator, n needle parts intended for the rage with it, hoping to assemble something with larger nozzle to accept thicker paint.  I don't really care for bottom feeding ABs, even though I have 3...(the iwata BCS gets regular use for primer, the BC2 was just another impulse buy but what a solid built AB, and the Anthemn just happen to be one of my first ABs since the Aztek.), so I won't get the Rage.  I sure hope the needle bearing is the same size...

How about a Patriot 105? Have you tried one?

It is basically the Anthem 155 in a gravity feed model. I love mine and think it is going to become my workhorse airbrush which used to be my Omni 4000 which I still really like.

yea i figured that from coast airbrush's spare parts breakdown.  we will see how it goes.

According to the parts list on the Badger website, the spray regulator, tip and needle are either Fine or Ultra Fine, but they list only only needle bearing.

So you should be good to go!

MikeV

Ryan,

Why another Velocity? Are you trying a different model?

I ordered the Fine tip, regulator, n needle parts intended for the rage with it, hoping to assemble something with larger nozzle to accept thicker paint.  I don't really care for bottom feeding ABs, even though I have 3...(the iwata BCS gets regular use for primer, the BC2 was just another impulse buy but what a solid built AB, and the Anthemn just happen to be one of my first ABs since the Aztek.), so I won't get the Rage.  I sure hope the needle bearing is the same size...

Oh, sorry! My humor radar must be on the fritz!

Bgrigg

Keilau, why put this down as favoritism of Badger instead of human error?

It is a joke.

Some new airbrush users mistakenly believe that the smaller the nozzle, the better. It may be true for artist or bike finisher who wants details. It is not true for modelers.

I found that the 0.35-0.5 mm nozzle are optimal for me for modeling. I have to use lower pressure and thinner paints for smaller nozzle. It takes too many misty coats to get good coverage. It is inconvenient for modeling.

Ryan,

Why another Velocity? Are you trying a different model?

I won't list my Badger ABs since we got Mike here.  I have another Velocity in the mail to me.

For Tamiya, I have the HG Superfine, and two of the Trigger Action Wide AB.

For Iwata, I have the old HP-C, HP-BC2, eclipse HP-CS, HP-SBS, HP-BCS, HiLine HP-BH, HP-CH, old CM-C, and CM-C+.

I also have a Gunze procon boy platinum 0.3mm, equivalent to the HiLine HP-CH, but I hardly ever used it since it was an impulse buy...

So yea, you can count on my input on those.