Acrylics Verses Enamels

I don't think the original question of completing a coat in one shot really depends on acryl or enamel so much as the pigment level in the paint.  Darker colours contain more pigment, they cover better than light colours which contain less pigment.  I think a lot of the paint choice comes from fumes and cleanup, personally.  I know with light acryls I have to make a few passes to build up the color.  I prefer acryls for their low odor, fast drying times and ease of cleanup.  I prefer Vallejo's Model Air for it's tenacity and the translucency I can achieve using their 'mediums', and the fact that I use their primer and clear coats, I would prefer to use one paint system and one set of thinners.  As for everyone, it's a matter of your own preference with brands, a matter of fumes and cleanup for paint type choice.  At the end of the day, the paints that give you the results you want are the right paints for you.

I mostly use acrylics except for enamel spray cans.

Don't take this wrong as I'm not a "glue sniffer" and don't go around huffing paint. The bottles of enamel paint I have when opened can sometimes bring back a torrent of memories of modeling if the odor hits me unexpectedly. Strange thing is if I intentionally smell the paint nothing happens.

TarnShip

yes they are, and I provided a link to each and every one of the Liquitex, Medea and Golden products I have been talking about, by specific product name and number

did I do it wrong, somehow?

Nope, My opinion is you did a fine job. 

The links are a boon to any interested in the acrylic side of the ledger.

Those products were developed for artists & illustrators both professional and nonprofessional  many many years ago. Its good to see members of the modeling community catching on, so as to increase their painting capabilities and abilities.

I think the bad rap some give acrylics is they have not been made aware of these various ancillary  products, that make acrylics a viable medium for modeling.

CRASH!!!!, no worrys just me falling off me soapbox.........again 

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i have been using acrylics for years in colorado without retardant and the only problems i have has was with white paint and Tamiya clear. i was using an AZTEK but have switched over to a BADGER and it's great. in a few months i may be doing freehand camo patterns.

i use ModelMAster, Tamiya, and PolyScale. i put 3 drops of dishwashing soap in every new Tamiya bottle. all 3 airbrush fine. i still use the paint specific thinner to eliminate a variable. i have a homemade cleaning solution plus Badger cleaner and don't even breakdown the airbrush every day but run cleaner through it after every color. i have a dedicated airbrush area in the bunker.

i have found Tamiya is the best for airbrush but hard to brush paint, MMA is good on both and as is PolyScale but it is better for brush painting. i also prime everything using ACE HARDWARE NOW gray primer but do that in the garage and not below freezing.

yes they are, and I provided a link to each and every one of the Liquitex, Medea and Golden products I have been talking about, by specific product name and number

did I do it wrong, somehow?

liquitex and medea are brand names,, they have  dozens of products among them to help with painting

Liquitex is a Flow Aid,,,,,,,,it helps with keeping the paint from drying on your airbrush tip,,,,,you make a mixture according to the directions, then add tiny amounts to your paint and thinner mixture, just before you spray,,,,,you stir this stuff, never shake it

www.liquitex.com/flowaid

Medea is an airbrush cleaner,,,,,,it is gentle on your airbrush, but, can be used to soak Acrylic paints out of it if they dried in place  www.iwata-medea.com/.../cleaners-and-lubes

and to slow drying time,,,,,,Liquitex makes a Slow Dri,,,,it retards the drying time of Acrylic paints, brush or airbrush

www.liquitex.com/slowdrifluidretarder

you need to use these somewhat sparingly, experiments show that only a small amount does the job,,,,,,and if you "flood" too much of these into your paint, you thin it too far,,,,,,,and just like water, you can break the paint down too far,,,,,,,,there is another product for this problem, or to add "more Acrylic-ness" to any Acrylic paint

it is Golden GAC mediums www.goldenpaints.com/.../gac100s.php

some use the GAC-100, but I use the GAC-200 mixed with an Acrylic primer to make a harder drying primer that sticks better to plastic (scroll down the page for GAC-100 and 200 info)

all of these seem like a lot of work,,,,,but, if you use them correctly it is actually easier than getting the wrong generic paint thinner for an enamel paint,,,,,,,and I am not an "enamel hater",,,,,I used enamels for over 40 years myself

Rex

Hi Rex.  Can you tell me what Liquitex or Medea are?  I've not heard of them before.  Also, any suggestions about how to keep acrylics from drying so quickly?  I have heard that a drop of Dawn in the mix does it.  Thanks for your thoughts.

Frank

I would love to see a diagram of your "drying box"-does it have 2 levels(with light underneath) with a shelf?

yeah, i can see what im doing but it cast a shadow on certain parts, but when i open the garage door its fine. but i gotta sell a airbursh gun that i dont need,  then i may buy one

If there is an electrical outlet you should be able to use some sort of lamp.  In my opinion one of the most important tools to a good paint job is a good, repositionable light. If you lighting is bad, so will your paint jobs be.

i do all my work in the garage, cause my parents dont want over spray in my room. i under stand that but the lighting is so horrid. oh well

i grew up on enamels, however since i do all my work in my office in my house, and  when my daughter was born..i just didn't want to take the chance. so i got a little paint booth and airbrush Vallejo model air, or tamiya acrylics. Certain colors may need a few extra coats, but all in all...i'm happy with the outcome.

i have been using enamels and i have had no problems. i recently got a double action airbrush and it comes out fine. just alittle blobs here cause i guess the ratio but besides that its awesome. i prefer enamel.

I am a die hard enamel fan.  The one problem I agree with is the long drying time.  However, I built myself a drying box.  It still takes a few hours, but at least not a few days!  If anyone is interested, I can post a diagram of the box. I use a 40W incandescent light bulb as a heat source.

The slow drying time contributes to a big advantage of enamels if you are painting things that require gloss paints- civil aircraft, cars, etc. I find  a good glossy finish is much easier with enamels.

not to derail the thread completely, but, congrats to your son Gary

back to paint subjects, though,,,,,,,,,,I do admit that I didn't just convert from my Dio-Sol and Hot MM Airbrush thinner habit on a whim,,,,,,,I was very comfortable with how all the chemicals worked together and laying down a nice coat of paint and the clears

but, I think that if I can figure out this Acrylic thing,,,,then anyone can,,,,,,,and to tell you the truth, once you get all of it down, it is not any more work than the Enamel Path

the one big gripe is airbrush tip dry,,,,but, even that can be worked through with some Liquitex or Medea

sometimes it doesn't quite feel like I am "actually modeling" though,,,,I got used to the smells, lol

Rex

Best wishes for your wife's full recovery Rex.  My son has just recovered from surgery for colon cancer.  I know it's hard. Again, good luck to you and her!

Gary

shrug, mine just had her third cancer surgery, she gets headaches from the enamel fumes I used for over 4 decades, but, she can't be left alone in the house while I build in a separate shop

so, I converted to the true "odorless" Acrylics, so I could watch over her, and still have a hobby

that is also why I don't take the advice about priming with an Enamel or Lacquer product,,,,,I searched around and found workable Acrylic primers

Rex

I use enamels almost exclusively, mostly Model Master and Humbrol.  I did use acrylic paint on one model because I wanted to experiment with a weathering/chipping technique.  I often read comments about how messy enamels are or what a pain clean up might be.  I guess I just don't understand those complaints.  Changing color in my Paasche H is a snap, quick and simple.  As for the odors, well, as a former professional painter, I have to admit that I never notice the smell.   As for my family and their tender sensibilities,  they grew up around the smells of paint, lacquer, putty and caulk.  Lol, they don't notice a little model paint I assure you.

Gary

one advantage that Acrylics have over Lacquers and Enamels (and the Japanese Acrylic Lacquers),,,,,,,is that Acrylics don't "melt into" an undercoat when you paint on a second coat or when you paint another color over your main color

a second coat of the same or different color with Enamels will soften the first coat, and blend them

Red Enamel brushed onto a White coat of paint is the quickest way to create Pink,,,,,,Red Acrylic over White Acrylic is just a good way to make your Red pop better (no melting, so, no Pinking)

Rex

Short compatibility matrix (thanks to Masataka Narita)

The L E A (Lacquer Enamel Acrylic) Rule: Lacquers, enamels & acrylics can safety cover base lacquers. Enamels & acrylics can cover enamels (but not lacquers!). Base coat acrylics can only be covered by more acrylics.

Dodger,

Probably depends on the brand and color.  

I have been a die-hard enamel user for all of my modeling life.  Testors, regular and Model Master, brush and rattle can.  Some colors can give me one coat coverage, and others not.  I have tried airbrushing enamel with my single-action, siphon-feed airbrush and got mixed results.  Plus a lot of messy, smelly, clean-up.

Just recently a friend let me try some of his Vallejo Model Air.  Wow!  Not watery, one coat coverage for the most part.  I loved them so much I went out and bought a brand new double-action, gravity-feed air brush and a couple of Vallejo Model Air sets.

Also, a good primer can help greatly with reducing the number of color coats you'll need.

Paul