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Best primer?

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  • Member since
    January, 2017
Best primer?
Posted by Jrbirdman on Monday, January 23, 2017 10:38 PM

what are some good primers you guys can recommend? Is vallejo any good? Mostly working on armor. Primarily airbrushing acrylics. 

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Northern New Jersey
Posted by Tojo72 on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 8:27 AM

I use either Tamiya Fine or Mr Surfacer 1200,both in a rattle can.

I have heard that Vallejo isn't a primer in the true sense,in that it's not sandable,it's more for just laying down an appropiate colored undercoat.

Correct if I'm wrong on that,but a primer that shows flaws and improves paint adhesion would be one of the enamels or lacquers.

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:09 AM

I'm useing Alclad and really like it. I find it very similar to Mr Surfacer but cheaper and easier to get hold of over here.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

On the bench: Academy 1/72nd P-47D

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:29 AM

First big question is, do you use acrylics, enamel, or lacquer paints.  You may find different primers better for each. 

Also, styrene is easiest to prime.  In fact, some of my modeling friends do not even prime styrene.  Resin is next critical for proper primer.  Lastly, metal, such as PE or die cast metal will have very poor adhesion with most paints unless the proper prime is used under paint (also, metal must be thoroughly cleaned before priming).

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by Jrbirdman on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:39 AM

Don Stauffer

First big question is, do you use acrylics, enamel, or lacquer paints.  You may find different primers better for each. 

Also, styrene is easiest to prime.  In fact, some of my modeling friends do not even prime styrene.  Resin is next critical for proper primer.  Lastly, metal, such as PE or die cast metal will have very poor adhesion with most paints unless the proper prime is used under paint (also, metal must be thoroughly cleaned before priming).

 

airbrushing acrylic paints. Only on plastic models. Whatever tamiya uses for plastic

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 9:55 AM

Jrbirdman

 

 
Don Stauffer

First big question is, do you use acrylics, enamel, or lacquer paints.  You may find different primers better for each. 

Also, styrene is easiest to prime.  In fact, some of my modeling friends do not even prime styrene.  Resin is next critical for proper primer.  Lastly, metal, such as PE or die cast metal will have very poor adhesion with most paints unless the proper prime is used under paint (also, metal must be thoroughly cleaned before priming).

 

 

 

airbrushing acrylic paints. Only on plastic models. Whatever tamiya uses for plastic

 

 

As Don says, you don't have to use a primer. I didn't for years, even though i use resin and PE. I only started useing it to help show flaws and because on occasion i was having issues with resin parts. So don't feel you have to prime.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

On the bench: Academy 1/72nd P-47D

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 10:16 AM

My go-to primer is Rustoleum brand primer in rattle can. It goes on really smooth and the best part? It's wet sandable as well as dry.

  • Member since
    September, 2011
  • From: Milaca, Minnesota
Posted by falconmod on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 11:26 AM

I use Tamiya  fine  gray or white in a spray can,   give me a great overall base to start my painting on.  I put enamel and acrylic over it.

John

On the Bench: Hase 1/72 Tojo, Airfix CAC Boomerang

Revell 1/144 MiG-31, Italeri 1/72 Mirage 2000C

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by ecotec83 on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 5:56 PM

I've been using Vallejo acrylic polyurethane primers. They go down nice unthinned and are not strong odor wise. However I have found even with proper model cleaning. (Wash with soap and water, assemble, clean again with simple green degreaser to remove skin oils, dust, remanants of sanding) it chips and scrathes very easily. Have also found it hard to sand. They work great as long as you dont manipulate the model a lot before the final paint coat.

 Im in the process of building a spraybooth and may end up getting a different more agressive primer with better bite as I do like to sand my finishes a bit smoother.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, January 25, 2017 9:12 AM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

My go-to primer is Rustoleum brand primer in rattle can. It goes on really smooth and the best part? It's wet sandable as well as dry.

 

I use it a lot too, but have had some compatibility problems.  It seems a bit hot, and can cause some minor crazing of styrene.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, January 25, 2017 7:04 PM

Don Stauffer

 

 
BlackSheepTwoOneFour

My go-to primer is Rustoleum brand primer in rattle can. It goes on really smooth and the best part? It's wet sandable as well as dry.

 

 

 

I use it a lot too, but have had some compatibility problems.  It seems a bit hot, and can cause some minor crazing of styrene.

 

 

I never experienced any crazing or compatibilty issues whatsoever. Keep in mind Rustoleum is part of Testors.

  • Member since
    September, 2016
  • From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Posted by SaltydogII on Thursday, January 26, 2017 2:35 PM

Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned 3 parts Mr. Leveling Thinner, 1 part 1500. When you are done, add some Mr. Leveling Thinner to your airbrush pot and spray it over the entire surface of your newly applied primer. The end result is AMAZINGLY smooth and level. 1500 can also be wet sanded, filling small surface scratches and such. Really good product. I use alclad primers sometime too, when I know not much sanding is required. Its almost airbrush ready right out of the bottle.

Chris

  • Member since
    March, 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Friday, January 27, 2017 2:23 PM

Tojo72

I use either Tamiya Fine or Mr Surfacer 1200,both in a rattle can.

I have heard that Vallejo isn't a primer in the true sense,in that it's not sandable,it's more for just laying down an appropiate colored undercoat.

Correct if I'm wrong on that,but a primer that shows flaws and improves paint adhesion would be one of the enamels or lacquers.

Tojo72 -

I am using Badger's Stynylrez primer lately, it's labeled as "water based acrylic polyurethane." Using it straight from the bottle it has remarkable grip on the plastic surface, no tendency to lift when sanding.

It sands very well, either dry or wet. Also a handy filler for minor flaws, I apply it with a toothpick to scratches or pinholes. I let it dry overnight before sanding, but I have read it can be done sooner.

Easy cleanup, but it does require a more aggressive agent than acrylic paint does, since it does seem to set up more than paint. For airbrush cleanup I use lacquer thinner or acetone, in the cup and needle.

It works well for me.

Patrick

 

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