First attempt airbrushing acrylics

I really like how well MMA spray and the cleanup is easy and fast.  I will see how well primer works since there are times I want to mask.

I am a Testors MMA disciple, love the stuff, one of the few on here lol. For extra tooth I scuff sand the plasitc with 1000 grit sandpaper then soap and water rinse. No primer. I still don't mask, insted I use card stock to control overspray to switch colors or will pencil line in and hand brush the second color in. Works for me, I also use a 0.3mm needle. As you can see from the photo, 1000 grit does not affect the raised panel lines at all. Wish I could afford the whole retail rack I would get one.

Dash from Canada

Exactly! And military hardware need not be shiny, but in addition to dealing with the worst that Mother Nature will throw out, also must deal with issues such as reducing visual, radar, and infrared signatures, nuclear flash, chemical attack, associated decontamination procedures for those things, etc.... priming for adhesion on multi media surfaces of our models. But for those military subject, rarely a need to get the shiny smooth. Just for that pesky resin and PE, or to find those imperfections needing filling. But occasional builds have no such problems, and if you're working with certain paints, the primer can be skipped. I do the military side of the house, although the occasional Thunderbird or Blue Angel requires that shiny finish preperation approach on occasion. 

stikpusher

 

 

patrick206

 

 

 A good primer coat is essential for cars or airplanes, (full size,) I doubt that any pro shop would try to turn out a quality job without priming, unless painting over a good paint job already in place, properly sanded and prepped.

 

 

 

 

 

Well there are big differences between a real aircraft or auto and our plastic model kits:

1) the surfaces involved, and

2) the paints or lacquers used on them

3) the conditions these items will operate in and what is expected of the paint under those conditions. 

 

Agreed Stik, big differences and conditions. But I find many similarities between painting models and the real items. If the real item has had repair work done, then fillers and metal work will be factors that do require priming. I consider it alike when I have used fillers and plastic work in the modeling process.

My routine is to prime the entire surface when assembled, doing that has resulted in close to zero lifting problems, and the sanded primer surface allows for a dependably smooth paint finish at the end. 

If I used mostly military flat or semi gloss paints it would make a difference in my routine, but I favor airliners and corporate jets. Those gloss finishes are quite demanding, and full prime coats have made improvements for my use.

Your point is well made, a model when finished sits on display. A commercial jet on departure or approach will encounter rain and hail, while still flying at speeds of 250 to 350 knots. Rough conditions. Thanks for the response.

Patrick

patrick206

 

 

 A good primer coat is essential for cars or airplanes, (full size,) I doubt that any pro shop would try to turn out a quality job without priming, unless painting over a good paint job already in place, properly sanded and prepped.

 

 

Well there are big differences between a real aircraft or auto and our plastic model kits:

1) the surfaces involved, and

2) the paints or lacquers used on them

3) the conditions these items will operate in and what is expected of the paint under those conditions. 

On my Revell P40 practice model I did wash the plastic on the sprue. When she is ready to paint I will roughen the surface a bit and use Testors laquer primer.

Some time ago I relied on primers with a bit of lacquer thinner added, which gave a bit more bite and adhered to the plastic more firmly. Then there were virtually no lifting problems, the lacquer thinner acted in a manner that attacked the plastic and it bonded to the surface.

Now I first wash and rinse the parts on the sprues, then before painting a good wipe down with alcohol. For some time badger's Stynylrez primer has served me well for an overall coat, then any paint type sticks well with no lifting issues.

As was suggested, a good scrubbing with a mildly abrasive surface will prep the plastic prior to any painting. I use foam pads from the beauty supply shop, seems about like 1200 grit. A good primer coat is essential for cars or airplanes, (full size,) I doubt that any pro shop would try to turn out a quality job without priming, unless painting over a good paint job already in place, properly sanded and prepped.

I am going to use a real primer from a can so I hope it works. I am impressed with the ease of airbrushing the Model Master acrylics and fast dry times.  Better yet there is no smell inside the house and clean up is so easy compared to enamels.

Use another primer. Certainly something with more tooth, adhesion properties, and durability. Testors Acrylic primer is just like the rest of their Acrylic line- poor adhesion to bare plastic being a constant. Once your surface is primed, your Testors Acrylics will stay in place better. 

I have taken to using a grey Scotchbrite pad to go over the plastic after washing and before prime and again (lightly) before paint. 

Used tamiya acrylics on a BUFF, no primer, and had no lifting problem even when the Tamiya tape was left on for nearly 3 weeks.

Can get the various "grits" of Scotchbrite pads at any auto body supply store, most parts houses,  or you might beg acouple from a local body shop.