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airbrush splatter

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  • Member since
    July, 2013
airbrush splatter
Posted by steve5 on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 5:42 AM

I have bought a harder and steenbeck evolution 2 in 1 .[ about 4 months ago ] just recently it started spitting every so often , on both needles , .2 & .4 mm , it's driving me mad , it look's like paint is building up , just outside the nozzle , and then letting go , I've stripped it down , 3-4 times no difference . has anyone got any idea's ,

  • Member since
    March, 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 12:33 PM

Steve - It sounds like tip dry, little globules of paint setting up at fwd end of nozzle/needle tip. Try a Q-tip, small capful of lacquer thinner to dunk it in to wet it, then insert swab end into the front of the airbrush, being GENTLE. Twirl the Q-tip around a bit, that will remove the dried paint glob. I do it it every 4 or 5 passes.

Hope it does the trick for you.

Patrick

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 12:42 PM

I own this airbrush. Never had a problem with it, and dry tip is the first thing I'd think of too, unless a fitting is loose somewhere.

If it is dry tip, FWIW I do the same as Patrick with the wetting q-tip.

I find the .2mm tip useless for our purposes (and same for anthing much under .35mm on any of my airbrushes). If you are trying to spray acrylic through the .2mm, that's an exercise in futility IMO.

Curious what paint you are using?

-Greg

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 2:36 PM

thank's guy's

greg I have used tamiya , MM , valejo , I seem to have more trouble with the .4mm , as it's doing it from the get go , but i will try the cotton swab , see what happen's

steve

  • Member since
    May, 2013
Posted by Snibs on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 4:55 PM

Never had this problem either, have you changed the air cap seal to see if that's a problem?

To start after four months seems odd, what's changed? could weather be a factor? 

Mick.

 

My airbrush and modeling page.

Two cheap spray booths compared, the BD-512 and HS-E420DC

On The Bench.

USS Voyager.

F/A-18A. 

 

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 8:46 PM

Here's a couple dumb ideas.

First, are you positive you haven't gotten the nozzles mixed up when changing over from .2 to .4? It is so easy to do.

Second, when you strip down the brush, do you make sure the inside of the nozzle is clean? An interdental brush works great on these.

And lastly, have you looked at both the tip of the needle(s) and nozzle(s) under extreme magnification? Both nozzle tips are fragile and need to be perfect.

You've probably done all this stuff, but I'd have no way of knowing.

-Greg

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 9:50 PM

thank's greg , will try swapping the nozzles around , can't hurt .I really don't have extreme magnification , it feels alright , and I do clean inside the nozzle's .

thank's again for the thought's though greg , I'll see what happen's

steve

  • Member since
    May, 2013
Posted by Snibs on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 9:58 PM

The needles and nozzles are marked, the nozzle for the .4 has a band, the .2 does not. The air caps are not interchangable.

http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/files/downloads/manuals/marks_nozzle_sets.pdf

My airbrush and modeling page.

Two cheap spray booths compared, the BD-512 and HS-E420DC

On The Bench.

USS Voyager.

F/A-18A. 

 

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by modelmaker66 on Tuesday, May 09, 2017 11:12 PM

Hi!

 

Sorry to hear of you problem. I had the same problem with the H&S. Every time I went to spray, it would splatter first and then spray ok. When I would put air through, same thing. Every time!  I eventually stopped trying and sold it. I went to Badger and none of it happend anymore. Thats why there are different manufacturers I guess. Tried Harder and Steenbeck a couple times and never got past the spitting so don't feel bad. For those they work for, they are great. You shouldn't have to baby an airbrush along evey painting session. Find one that works for you. Badger worked for me.

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, May 10, 2017 10:53 AM

Snibs

The needles and nozzles are marked, the nozzle for the .4 has a band, the .2 does not. The air caps are not interchangable.

http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/files/downloads/manuals/marks_nozzle_sets.pdf

 

I'd never noticed the ID bands on the .4mm set, that's a good bit of advice, thank you.

-Greg

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Thursday, May 11, 2017 12:30 AM

thanks snibs , that made life a bit easier .

greg ,

I tried , everything you said , this time I soaked the nozzles in X20A thinner and really cleaned the brushes , I also very gently ran the needle point's over 2000 grit paper , and I also added a few drops of tamiya acrylic paint retarder , for the dry tip , I have my airbrush again , thank's for the help , it seem's I wasn't very good at cleaning,

steve

  • Member since
    May, 2013
Posted by Snibs on Thursday, May 11, 2017 1:07 AM

Glad to hear it Steve.

Cheers from Mick.

My airbrush and modeling page.

Two cheap spray booths compared, the BD-512 and HS-E420DC

On The Bench.

USS Voyager.

F/A-18A. 

 

  • Member since
    March, 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Thursday, May 11, 2017 1:44 PM

steve5

thanks snibs , that made life a bit easier .

greg ,

I tried , everything you said , this time I soaked the nozzles in X20A thinner and really cleaned the brushes , I also very gently ran the needle point's over 2000 grit paper , and I also added a few drops of tamiya acrylic paint retarder , for the dry tip , I have my airbrush again , thank's for the help , it seem's I wasn't very good at cleaning,

steve

 

Good, Steve, glad you got your AB sorted. The cleaning part is very important, any paint build up will only serve to cause function problems.

At session ends I use lacquer thinner, to remove all paint bits from the AB. If neccessary I soak the forward bits for a few minutes, just to soften the remaining paint before using cleaning implements, (Q-tips, etc.)

I don't know if the X-20A is a good cleaner, never tried it for that, but lacquer thinner is more effective and surely a lot less expensive. (:>)

Careful using the retarder, if you add too much it can lead to excessive drying times and even runs in the paint.

Snibs sure is a valuable help source, isn't he? Lot's of knowledge he passes along, good guy.

Patrick

  • Member since
    May, 2013
Posted by Snibs on Thursday, May 11, 2017 4:01 PM

Thank's for the compliment, I try.

Just as a side note, very much soak the nozzle in lacquer thinner BUT don't agitate it, the very small tapping on the side of the jar will stuff the tip of the nozzle very easily, yes I learnt that the hard way.

Mick.

My airbrush and modeling page.

Two cheap spray booths compared, the BD-512 and HS-E420DC

On The Bench.

USS Voyager.

F/A-18A. 

 

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, May 12, 2017 12:33 AM

thank's to all for the help , it was much appreciated .

patrick - thank's for the tip on lacquer thinners , forgot I even had any , as for the retarder , their's a bloke on u-tube , [andy's hobby centre ] did  a segment on how to thin , tamiya paint , and how to use the retarder , 3 drops a bottle , it's good stuff .

steve

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, May 12, 2017 10:27 AM

Glad a thorough cleaning seems to have solved your problem, Steve.

As much as I dislike working with nasty solvents like laquer thinner, I'm with Patrick, and at the end of a airbrush use day I can not resist a full tear down and clean with laquer thinner.

You mentioned cleaning with alcohol (X-20A). Are you using any paints except Tamiya acylics in your airbrush, Steve?

Also, to echo Patrick yet again, on the odd occasion I use Tamiya, I do use X-20A but I'm not quite sure I'd trust it to clean my airbrush. I'd at least go with a dedicated acrylic airbrush cleaner for in between sprays, but more likely laquer thinner, at the end of the spraying day, as mentioned above.

-Greg

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, May 12, 2017 3:43 PM

greg

I'm off to brisbane next week , to my LHS [ 200 k's ] away . I shall pick some up there .cheer's mate

steve

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, May 12, 2017 9:55 PM

Steve, if you're using Tamiya or Gunze (aqueous) acrylics, you need nothing more than plain old metho to clean up. Save your X-20A for thinning only. If you're buying X-20A thinner, try to get it in the 250ml jugs rather than the tiny paint jar size, it's much cheaper.

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, May 12, 2017 9:59 PM

PS: Another good habit you might grow into is starting the airflow with your airbrush directed away from your model before pulling back on the trigger, to prevent any build-up splattering onto it.

 

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, May 12, 2017 11:23 PM

thank's phil  , I do buy the bigger X20A , will try the directing away too

greg - I do like MM paint's , X20A seems to be alright with it ?

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, May 13, 2017 10:07 AM

steve5
greg - I do like MM paint's , X20A seems to be alright with it ?

I doubt it, and that's why I asked, Steve.

Tamiya acrylics contain alcohol, hence the X20A is alcohol based. From what I've read, you can get away with thinning MM with X20A, but it will clog the nozzle and lead to dry tip.

With some acryls, (Vallejo is my hands-on example), mixing or cleaning with alcohol or X20A will gunk up your airbrush horribly.

I use MM airbrush thinner when I airbrush MM Acryls and have no problem. I clean with either a generic acylic airbrush thinner or Lacquer thinner. I'd use caution mixing thinners and different acrylic paint brands. Just my 2 cents, Steve.

-Greg

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Saturday, May 13, 2017 3:24 PM

thank's greg :- I think you just told me why I don't like vallejo paint's , I have read somewhere that lacquer thinner's is good , actually I think it was baxter , he did some experiment's with it . I might have to go and check his build out again , I appreciate you taking the time to straighten me out mate , cheer's

steve

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Monday, May 15, 2017 12:51 AM

greg could I ask one more question , if in doubt for valejo , MM paint's etc , would plain old water do as a thinner .

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, May 15, 2017 10:36 AM

steve5

greg could I ask one more question , if in doubt for valejo , MM paint's etc , would plain old water do as a thinner .

 

I'm not expert of the subject, but I'm always happy to share an opinion or two Steve. Geeked

From several years of reading, seems pretty well divided between folk who prefer to use proprietary thinners with their acrylics and folks who like to use water or search for a generic solution that seems to work for them.

I prefer to use the matching brand airbrush thinner when airbrushing. IMO, there are already too many variables when airbrushing and doing so at least doesn't add one more. Also, I don't know anything about the chemistry of the various acrylics I use, and I prefer not to mess with that chemistry, and assume in general if I use the proprietary airbrush thinners I am not.

That said, there are talented modelers in both camps.

-Greg

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Monday, May 15, 2017 2:39 PM

cheer's greg , I appreciate your help , you have sorted a few problems out for me , I am off to brisbane this weekend for supplies , that's if the forecast storm misses us LOL .

steve

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, May 15, 2017 8:34 PM

If I've helped with anything, then I'm a happy camper Steve. Thank you.

Have a nice trip to Brisbane and I always enjoy buying supplies, hope you do too. Yes

-Greg

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Friday, May 26, 2017 11:10 PM

 snibs

a quick question ,- I think I have these nozzles right , .4mm on the right , is that correct

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  • Member since
    February, 2015
Posted by Bick on Saturday, May 27, 2017 7:32 AM
From H&S Precision German Airbrush site. In the FAQ section: 0.4 NOZZLE - 1 WIDE NOTCH (BAND) 0.2 NOZZLE – NO NOTCH 0.15 NOZZLE- 1 NARROW NOTCH So, yes,
  • Member since
    August, 2012
Posted by JMorgan on Sunday, June 04, 2017 3:47 PM

Testors Acryls do not thin with alcohol, but their proprietary thinner. I made the mistake of thinking all acrylics were created equaland used alcohol as their solvent. Such is life.

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