Badger Stynylrez Primer

Possible problems set aside, I test sanded today. I used 3600 grit, cloth abrasive. I added a little water for dispersion and gently sanded. The primer performed beautifully. Paint particles were suspended in the water with no tearing of paint. It took very little effort to sand this primer and the result was a glass smooth finish. Truly, very little sanding is required for this.

I then applied Tamiya masking that I taped down hard and ripped off fast. I did this several times. There was no evidence of paint failure. The only thing I noticed is that where the tape was, it affected the sheen. A non-issue in my book. 

I must say--this primer is nice. Barring any yet to see issues, I will migrate over to this.

You don't need the water. Actually I would advise not using water, it's not solvent paint. Just lightly scuff it. But I still like steel wool lol.

oldermodelguy

You don't need the water. Actually I would advise not using water, it's not solvent paint. Just lightly scuff it. But I still like steel wool lol.

 

Bakster

 

 

Ok I am listening. Do you find it difficult to use steel wool in small tight areas? What about raised detail? How do you approach those areas? Also--as long as we are discussing. Have you had any adhesion issues with color layers or certain paints? I assume the answer is no because you wouldn't be using it. I guess i keep looking for that achilles heel! There almost always is one. LOL. 

 

I haven't shot any lacquer hotter than nail polish on this primer, something hotter might be it's weakness but I have no information to verify that. I've had no lifting of paint off the primer as yet, with mild lacquer, acrylics of various brands, nor with MM enamel. Even blue painters tape hasn't lifted it. Not yet anyway.

If you need to get in tight scuffing use the paper but I haven't had to. I don't always scuff anyway, mostly when going for a high polished finish, rarely with flats.

oldermodelguy

I haven't shot any lacquer hotter than nail polish on this primer, something hotter might be it's weakness but I have no information to verify that. I've had no lifting of paint off the primer as yet, with mild lacquer, acrylics of various brands, nor with MM enamel. Even blue painters tape hasn't lifted it. Not yet anyway. If you need to get in tight scuffing use the paper but I haven't had to. I don't always scuff anyway, mostly when going for a high polished finish, rarely with flats.

Good input. Thank you sir.

Just a few more comments before I close this out.

1. I inserted a soda straw into the bottle and sure enough, there was a sludge at the bottom maybe a quarter inch thick. All the shaking didn't break that up. I was able to dissolve that using the straw.

2. Your point about not using water to sand is noted. I just tried using the same sanding cloth but this time, dry. It smoothed the primer out in no time, with little effort. And the nice thing is that I didn't notice any buildup of paint on the cloth. This was the primary reason I used water to begin with. I expected the paint to build up. Not so. 

3. As of this morning the test piece with retarder had dried out. Seemed fine.

This seems like the real deal.

I hope this thread was as helpful to others as it was to me.

Thanks to everyone that participated and for sharing their knowledge.

Steve

Wow, you really dosed it with retarder lol !! I'd have tossed it in the dehydrator for a couple of hours ( 108f does well). A hair dryer accelerates drying too, especially initial flash times.

In my experience, spraying neat, this stuff is dry almost immediately, ready for about whatever you want to toss at in 10.

Just my , whatever works for you is what matters.

Greg

In my experience, spraying neat, this stuff is dry almost immediately, ready for about whatever you want to toss at in 10.

Just my , whatever works for you is what matters.

 

LOL, it's usually ready before I am Greg ! But I give it 30 minutes to 30 days !!!!!!!!!!! Because thatr's just me, I'm a 0 rush builder.. Lately I seem to think painted is a complete build too, I have 3 kits waiting to be assembled, paint work essentially done. I only have one left to paint but I really ought to assemble these first. And I have my eye on a couple of other kits I'd like. This is bad, so this is how it is to turn 70 I guess.

oldermodelguy

LOL, it's usually ready before I am Greg !

Same here. Interesting you'd say that.

I'm the same as you, very slow. That said, waiting for paint to dry is really starting to annoy me and I'd prefer it be ready even if I'm not. I'm working on changing my airbrushing techique (ie, stop spraying so heavily, likely most of my problem). But finding products like Stynylrez which just work and dry (and maybe even cure) quickly helps.

oldermodelguy

Wow, you really dosed it with retarder lol !! I'd have tossed it in the dehydrator for a couple of hours ( 108f does well). A hair dryer accelerates drying too, especially initial flash times.

 

 

Maybe so but for a test I was not in all that big a rush. Also, since I wasnt checking it hour by hour, who knows how long it actually took. I was just pleased to see it dried over night. And when I say dried, I mean not tacky. I could handle the piece shortly after spraying but it had a tacky feel to it. I recently did a test using Vallejo paint and their thinner. Want to talk about slow drying, that was rediculous. Using the same definition of tacky, it was tacky for days.

At least at this point, I will skip the retarder. I don't see a need for it. The flow improver got me where I needed to go. It made the paint flow through the brush better and it dried fine. The grain was small, the paint covered well, and it layed down on the piece the way i would expect a paint to behave. I am happy with that result.

Greg

 

Same here. Interesting you'd say that.

I'm the same as you, very slow. That said, waiting for paint to dry is really starting to annoy me and I'd prefer it be ready even if I'm not. I'm working on changing my airbrushing techique (ie, stop spraying so heavily, likely most of my problem). But finding products like Stynylrez which just work and dry (and maybe even cure) quickly helps.

 

It might be time to think about a dehydrator or home brewed drying box Greg.

Bakster

 

Maybe so but for a test I was not in all that big a rush. Also, since I wasnt checking it hour by hour, who knows how long it actually took. I was just pleased to see it dried over night. And when I say dried, I mean not tacky. I could handle the piece shortly after spraying but it had a tacky feel to it. I recently did a test using Vallejo paint and their thinner. Want to talk about slow drying, that was rediculous. Using the same definition of tacky, it was tacky for days.

At least at this point, I will skip the retarder. I don't see a need for it. The flow improver got me where I needed to go. It made the paint flow through the brush better and it dried fine. The grain was small, the paint covered well, and it layed down on the piece the way i would expect a paint to behave. I am happy with that result.

 

Ya, glad it's working out !

oldermodelguy

 

 

Bakster

 

Maybe so but for a test I was not in all that big a rush. Also, since I wasnt checking it hour by hour, who knows how long it actually took. I was just pleased to see it dried over night. And when I say dried, I mean not tacky. I could handle the piece shortly after spraying but it had a tacky feel to it. I recently did a test using Vallejo paint and their thinner. Want to talk about slow drying, that was rediculous. Using the same definition of tacky, it was tacky for days.

At least at this point, I will skip the retarder. I don't see a need for it. The flow improver got me where I needed to go. It made the paint flow through the brush better and it dried fine. The grain was small, the paint covered well, and it layed down on the piece the way i would expect a paint to behave. I am happy with that result.

 

 

 

 

Ya, glad it's working out !

 

Lol. Me too!

Say, one last thought. In retrospect, just using IPA might have been enough for me to get there. In light of how this product sands so well, maybe the flow improver is not needed. But, I will probably still use it because it gave me a more normal feel to how the paint went on.

Just more fodder from my overactive brain. 

There is a guy on the tube who swears by Ultimate Airbrush Thinner and flow aid and thins 50/50 to build several smooth light coats. But the other day using my .25 nozzle I thinned black Stynylrez cut maybe 20% with 70% ipa. It shot great, took an extra coat for coverage. I had a few dry spots I just touched with the 000 sw and all is well. Makes for a very thin primer coat where the details almost seem to pop out. So it's kind of to each his own.

I've hand brushed small parts straight from the bottle with that black color too ( great for radiator hoses on a flat head Ford, brush it on and forget about it except maybe a little weathering),,.

oldermodelguy

But the other day using my .25 nozzle I thinned black Stynylrez cut maybe 20% with 70% ipa. It shot great, took an extra coat for coverage. I had a few dry spots I just touched with the 000 sw and all is well. Makes for a very thin primer coat where the details almost seem to pop out. So it's kind of to each his own.

THAT is a nugget of info.  Now I see how far you can go with this. This is great to know.

oldermodelguy

I've hand brushed small parts straight from the bottle with that black color too ( great for radiator hoses on a flat head Ford, brush it on and forget about it except maybe a little weathering),,.  

I am laughing here because this is yet another nugget. I can't tell you how many times I wished to hand brush some small piece black but I didn't. I didn't because I couldn't achieve an airbrushed look that keeps scale with even coverage. I'll have to buy a bottle just for that! I can imagine this primer would accomplish that.

Hey -- as you keep learning things with this primer--please update this thread. It's all good.

Thanks for the additional tips!

What a great thread with such great info. I just rediscovered it. I had a tough time finding it using the search but then I remembered Bills advice to Google it.

Somewhere along the line I didn't follow through in using this primer. I had migrated back to Tamiya Surface Primer. Doing so reminds me why I wanted to get away from TSP... the smell. It stinks up my Condo for at least a day, headache and all.

Gonna try the Stynyrelz again, tomorrow. 

What's the point in my post? Just that I appreciate all the great input you guys gave me here. I won't need to reinvent the wheel. 

Thanking you again. 

Since you revived the thread, I can't remember if I mentioned to you that since my comments here last May, I added a fan pattern airbrush to my arsenal.

I thought the Stynylrez finish was smooth before (with the regular Iwata .5mm needle/noozle) but it layed down with a smoother finish, more like that of a Tamiya rattle can primer finish with the fan pattern. It happened to be Stynylrez black.

I hear you regarding the desire to grab the Tamiya. Almost foolproof. And the rattlecan version is so doggone convenient. But bad news to spray inside.

PS, getting smoked out of your place for a day due to the Tamiya fumes, I wonder if maybe that was payback for messing with me earlier this year over the stinky Vallejo?

I've switch to adding about 10% Lacquer Thinner to stynylrez and the finish flows nice and is so smooth as to be ready to paint over. Not to mention a finer tip can be used.

And yes clean the AB immediately.

Tojo72

the only problem is if you wait just a little,it really hardens in my airbrush requiring a total strip down

That's great advice for Bakster.

Since OMG already seconded it, I'll third it.

Greg

PS, getting smoked out of your place for a day due to the Tamiya fumes, I wonder if maybe that was payback for messing with me earlier this year over the stinky Vallejo?

You crack me up, Greg. Lol. Buddy! The thing is... I don't want to use Vallejo either because of it's smell. It's funny you brought this up because just a few days ago I was thinking about it. How can Greg say there is no smell to it and for me it stinks to high heaven? It got me thinking that maybe part of the smell is a result of my using Tamiya thinner with it. Not to start a whole new debate about why not to use that but I swear it worked great with the Model Air. But maybe the combination causes a chemical reaction making it stink. Anywho... too funny.

Btw. In my searches for this thread I came across your thread about it pooling or something. That was a good thread too! It was an interesting read.

Tojo72

I usually try to use the Tamiya in the can,its easy to step out on my basement walk out and spray,but I don't like the Badger stuff too,the only problem is if you wait just a little,it really hardens in my airbrush requiring a total strip down

 

I hear ya, Tojo. Tamiya is good stuff and it's why I hesitated to leave it. THAT, and that I had a can to use up.

Good tip about the cleaning...

oldermodelguy

I've switch to adding about 10% Lacquer Thinner to stynylrez and the finish flows nice and is so smooth as to be ready to paint over. Not to mention a finer tip can be used.

And yes clean the AB immediately.

 

Well, THAT is interesting. I think for now I will skip trying Lacquer because that will just add fumes into my equation. Awesome input though and I am not totally ruling it out.

I just sprayed a plastic stand and I used my previous formula using IPA to thin and two drops of flow Aid. It sprayed excellent. It went on wet and laid down flat. No struggles at all.

I keep getting occasional fibers in my paint finish. They don't look like dust, they look like small fibers. I am beginning to wonder if its from how I clean my AB equipment. I have a bottom feeder and at cleaning I use a thinner soaked cotton swab to clean out the neck that the jar attaches to. I wonder if I am introducing this garbage into the system, and during use, fibers dislodge and spray out. Do I need to worry about cleaning that neck out? Is there another option to use? 

Any thoughts on that?

Bakster

 

 

oldermodelguy

I've switch to adding about 10% Lacquer Thinner to stynylrez and the finish flows nice and is so smooth as to be ready to paint over. Not to mention a finer tip can be used.

And yes clean the AB immediately.

 

 

 

 

Well, THAT is interesting. I think for now I will skip trying Lacquer because that will just add fumes into my equation. Awesome input though and I am not totally ruling it out.

I just sprayed a plastic stand and I used my previous formula using IPA to thin and two drops of flow Aid. It sprayed excellent. It went on wet and laid down flat. No struggles at all.

I keep getting occasional fibers in my paint finish. They don't look like dust, they look like small fibers. I am beginning to wonder if its from how I clean my AB equipment. I have a bottom feeder and at cleaning I use a thinner soaked cotton swab to clean out the neck that the jar attaches to. I wonder if I am introducing this garbage into the system, and during use, fibers dislodge and spray out. Do I need to worry about cleaning that neck out? Is there another option to use? 

Any thoughts on that?

Whenever there is an odd substance we think of cleaning from airbush, mixing containers if used, to the actual model surface. But strands or fibers can also be some form of compatability problem.

Blaster, you could use those little brushes meant for cleaning between your teeth for that. Some of them are flat and not very useful but some are cone shaped and work very well. Lacquer thinner doesn't phase them either. Or, you can get a set of brushes meant for airbrushes from Harbor Freight for 2 or 3 dollars I think.

Wingman_kz

Blaster, you could use those little brushes meant for cleaning between your teeth for that. Some of them are flat and not very useful but some are cone shaped and work very well. Lacquer thinner doesn't phase them either. Or, you can get a set of brushes meant for airbrushes from Harbor Freight for 2 or 3 dollars I think.

 

 

Wingman, that sounds like a good plan. I will try that. Thanks!

oldermodelguy

Whenever there is an odd substance we think of cleaning from airbush, mixing containers if used, to the actual model surface. But strands or fibers can also be some form of compatability problem.

True. I have seen that happen as well.

My apologies Bakster. My phone changed your name and I didn't see it. 

I use cotton swabs to wipe out the cup on my airbrushes and sometimes I'll get little fibers in the paint too. I didn't realize what it was at first. Never used to happen, I don't know what's changed. Maybe it's just me. 

Wingman_kz

My apologies Bakster. My phone changed your name and I didn't see it. 

I use cotton swabs to wipe out the cup on my airbrushes and sometimes I'll get little fibers in the paint too. I didn't realize what it was at first. Never used to happen, I don't know what's changed. Maybe it's just me. 

 

Wingman, spellchecker gets me all the time! No worries!

You are confirming my concern. I have an elaborate spray-booth that is pretty much a closed system. Particulates coming from outside of the booth, though possible, it is unlikely, and I go through great lengths to make sure the model is free of any dust or fibers prior to spraying. On three recent spray sessions, I have found what looks like cotton fiber on my spray job. Pretty frustrating. And on one of those spray sessions, it was a small job, and the contamination happened early in the session. THAT, is what got me thinking. I figure the longer you are spraying on a job, the higher chance you will have of contamination. This was a short job, and I still had issues. In fact, on the same piece and while spraying the primer, two pieces of lint made it to the job. This should not be happening. And just so that I am clear to those reading this. I know this is lint and not paint issues. I know the difference because I have over time experienced both. The latter is not what is happening. These are fibers. The only explanation I can come up with is that I am introducing contamination with my AB cleaning process.

I will stop using the swabs and instead use the dental pick. Then, see how this goes. 

Thanks for chiming in!