Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
Does it come off cleanly without damage to fully-cured paint? It may be more feasible to use a brush-on/peel-off paint mask than tape in some instances.
Any brand you like for this purpose or is there a brush-on/peel-off mask product you like even better than rubber cement?
Current Model Worked On; 1/25 AMT Kenworth W-925 Tractor Kit, Future Models; 1/25 AMT Wilson Cattle Trailer, 1/96 Atlantis Boeing 727, 1/48 AMT Bell 205 Helicopter
I use Vallejo or Mr Hobby liquid mask to block off structurally defined areas like wheel hubs, lights, etc. For me, it doesn't work nearly as well as tape for sharp lines across smooth surfaces.
I'd be careful of using true rubber cement, that would be the stuff sold under the name "best test" and also "elmers brand". These are solvent based products and are generally thinned with heptane, one of the ingredients found in gasoline. My caution is that this stuff may affect the paint you're applying it to. You may be better off finding a water based masking material. There are many good ones available.
What I want to do is protect parts to be painted on both sides like truck cabs, hoods, fender wells, truck cab visors, cab steps, truck battery boxes, etc. from misty overspray. For a truck hood and cab I paint the inside first followed by the outside. I want my absolute best finish to be on the vehicle exteriors, of course. Tape can be tricky to put over contoured surfaces like semi truck hoods. It may also leave some sticky residue on paint. I'm using Testors enamels mixed with LT for airbrushing so it has to be cured hard before putting any kind of adhesive masks over it.
I plan to paint the inside of a part, cure the paint, mask the inside of the part and then paint the outside of a part like a vehicle hood.
A brush-on/peel-off masking agent might also prove handy for airplane wheels. The rims are to be silver while the tires are to be rubber black.
I found this video for doing jeep wheels:
Do those products remove cleanly without paint harm?
They come off cleanly from fully cured paint. I wouldn't risk it on anything that you wouldn't judge to be ready for tape. It's not going to pull the paint off, but might leave a smudge in high gloss.
I use Humbrol's Maskol. It is a waterbased latex masking material. Apply with a toothpick or brush on. Might take two coats for complete coverage. Paint (enamel or acrylic). Peel off when the paint is dry
A similar product is Ambroids masking fluid, find it in the water color section of your local art supply shop. It's blue as opposed to Humbrols purple
Ive also tried liquid latex also from the art aisle. It works, but not quite as effective as a purpose made material
Ohh and BTW, rubber cement hardens by evaporation of the carrier solvent. You might want to use caution if you are applying it to an enclosed surface. The trapped solvent may affect surrounding areas
I've only used fresh rubber cement for aircraft radio to rudder attachment and other similar applications.
Old glue that's been sitting around a while doesn't work too well.
If this doesn't work the first try just pull it off and repeat, only takes a moment.
Get a BB size glob and pick up a small amount on a toothpick. Touch it to the antenna mast and slowly stretch it back nice and thin to attach it to the rudder connection.
End of story.
Smudges on high gloss can be polished out with Future?
JonBailey Smudges on high gloss can be polished out with Future?
No, future is a clear acrylic floor product, used as a gloss finish by some,, mostly on a flat finish prior to decaling.
If it's just a dull spot you can try to polish with polishing compound.
If a fingerprint, have to probably sand down and repaint
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.