The Iwata Eclipse HP-CS arrived today

I"m still waiting for my HP-CH to arrive....can't wait...

that wasnt too bad mike, im proud of ya! i personally like the hp-c better because of the feel. the hp-cs is larger and heavier than the omni so thats the main reason i like the hp-cs over the omni. plus, with both of my iwatas, i like the longer "stem" if you will that the air hose connects to which acts as sort of a pistol grip for me. again, i have thick hands and the iwatas are more comfortable in my hand than the omni. later.

QUOTE: Originally posted by saltydog that wasnt too bad mike, im proud of ya!

I am not going to be biased on my opinion of an airbrush Chris.
If I think another brand is as good or even better than a Badger/T&C then I will say so, but I will continue to be a loyal Badger user and proponent regardless of what other country's are producing.

QUOTE: i personally like the hp-c better because of the feel. the hp-cs is larger and heavier than the omni so thats the main reason i like the hp-cs over the omni.

You have the Omni 5000 though which has a smaller cup than the 4000.
The HP-CS is slightly heavier than the Omni 4000 but they feel similar.
Actually the trigger on my Omni 4000 is almost as good as the HP-CS and the Anthem and 360 are just as good as the HP-CS in every way.

Mike

MikeV, keep us posted as to your feedback of the result of your HP-CS?

QUOTE: Actually the trigger on my Omni 4000 is almost as good as the HP-CS and the Anthem and 360 are just as good as the HP-CS in every way.

hmm, thats strange. my omni has a smoother trigger than my hp-c, but the hp-cs is the smoother of the 3. later.

Outstanding MikeV, hope (I know you will) you enjoy it! Yeah, the trigger was weird when I was looking at it before I sprayed with it, but when I sprayed with it it was the best feeling to see extremly fine lines without having to beg or plead with the AB to get them!

Hey gang im purchasing an iwata hp this weekend based on reading your assesments.I will ley you know how thing go.thanks for your opinions and look foreward to chatting with all members. willie65

hmmm... strange, my badger 100 should be here in 4-6 weeks

QUOTE: Originally posted by 1337 hmmm... strange, my badger 100 should be here in 4-6 weeks

That is an excellent airbrush too 1337.
It is more of an illustration airbrush and should be able to paint some pretty fine lines.

Mike

QUOTE: Originally posted by saltydog QUOTE: Actually the trigger on my Omni 4000 is almost as good as the HP-CS and the Anthem and 360 are just as good as the HP-CS in every way. hmm, thats strange. my omni has a smoother trigger than my hp-c, but the hp-cs is the smoother of the 3. later.

That's the nature of machined parts. Sometimes some are smoother than others.
I noticed that my Omni 4000 got smoother as it was used and broken in. Did you notice the same thing.

Mike

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman MikeV, keep us posted as to your feedback of the result of your HP-CS?

I will sigman.
I was hoping my male quick connect for the Iwata would get here today, but it didn't so I can't try it out yet.

Mike

yes mike, it got smoother as i used it. i used my hp-c quite extensively but it still rather stiff.

Salty, all the Iwata ABs I've used had smooth triggers. Could it be you have a bent "T" on the post that connects the trigger?

oh dont get me wrong rooster, its smooth per say, its just not as smooth as my hp-cs or omni 5000. i have no complaints whatsoever about it. didn't you say that you have an hp-c?

I see what you are getting at, salty. That airbrush of yours is the least smooth of your Iwatas.

I have an HP-B, HP-C and HP-CR.

since you have the hp-c, then you probably still use the .3mm n/n right? if so, what type of painting do you do with it as far as modelling goes? i just found that model paints and the .3mm n/n really a problematic combo in my experience. i tried several different thinning ratios and psi with the same basic result. later.

Ditto, salty. With the .3mm nozzle you have to be really careful with the thinning. If the paint was too thick I would get sputter and clog. If it was too thin a paint mixture then the coverage wasn't good and I ran the chance of overspraying and the dribble effect. I could never spray a larger metallic paint like square bottle Testors Gold.

So I save the HP-C for just very small and fine area of a model painting. With the proper thinning the HP would make an easy to do thin and sharp line.

An Omni or HP-CR is a better airbrush for modeling to me. If I just had an HP-C then I would consider converting the airbrush to a larger nozzle. Or for a little more money just buy an all new airbrush. As you can tell I really think the conversion is too costly for the HP. Isn't is around $40 + shipping for a coversion kit?

well rooster, out of pure ignorance, i purchased the hp-c for modelling as i researched the chart on the iwata home page and it says "E" for excellent for hobbiest, enamels, and acrylics, so i bought it. i was very disappointed with the results to say the least but i loved the comfort and feel of the airbrush. i could never get the line i wanted consistantly with the .3mm n/n combo. i finally decided that the .3mm n/n was maybe just too small to handle the pigments in model paints so i went shopping for another airbrush. i read much praise about the hp-cs on this forum and other places on the web so i decided to go to dixieart and purchase the hp-cs. while there, i stumbled across the .4mm n/n conversion kit for $49 which was cheaper than purchasing an hp-cs for $105. converted the hp-c to the .4mm n/n and fell in love with the airbrush. a couple of weeks later i came across a little extra work (i buried a dead horse for a guy down the street from where i live with my backhoe) that paid well and i went ahead and purchased the hp-cs and i love it too. i have some more after hour backhoe work to do and i plan to purchase an hp-cr next. i noticed on the instruction sheet on my hp-cs that they list a .5mm n/n combo as an option. i cant find any information besides this so do you know if this is available? if so, ill just buy the .5mm n/n. with the conversion kit on my hp-c, it is by far my favorite airbrush. but, like you say, i wouldnt go that route. i just stumbled down that route out of ignorance. the hp-cs is the best modelling airbrush OOB that ive used. later.

im thinking of getting this airbrush. do you recommend this one? mine just broke somehow. im going to send it in but i think its time for a change.(i noticed that this a very old post but i need help) thank you.

Holy thread resurection Batman!!!

All the info you need is in the previous thread posts. The AB is a good one, works well if the paint is thinned properly. I have one and use it primarily for small stuff and tight camo.

EliteModelling

im thinking of getting this airbrush. do you recommend this one? mine just broke somehow. im going to send it in but i think its time for a change.(i noticed that this a very old post but i need help) thank you.

I second what hkshooter said about the need to thin paints properly when using the CS.

The CS is my primary airbrush for most modeling works. I have the CS, one Badger 105 Patriot, one Paasche H and two Powercat (one Iwata C+ knockoff and one Badger 155 knockoff). The Iwata CS has the smoothest trigger and the most linear fine control.

I ordered the Patriot with the fine nozzle which is still larger than the CS needle/nozzle combo. Therefore, it is a bit more tolerant of less thinning. I find it very convenient when I want to put down more paint over large area quick. I suspect that many modeler may prefer the larger nozzle 0.5 mm of the Patroit over that of a CS, 0.35 mm. It is perfectly adequate if you need to paint fine details with the Patroit.

I am no airbrush expert, just a weekend modeler using an airbrush now and then.

keilau

 

 The Iwata CS has the smoothest trigger and the most linear fine control.

That is interesting keilau because when I had my HP-CS I thought my Badger 100LG's trigger was smoother.

MikeV

keilau:

 The Iwata CS has the smoothest trigger and the most linear fine control.  

That is interesting keilau because when I had my HP-CS I thought my Badger 100LG's trigger was smoother.

My comparison is from the test sample of one each. The experience of others may vary. The Badger Patriot trigger, when I first received it, was tight to the point that it would not return to the neutral position when I released it. It works better now after I broke it in by repeatedly pulling the trigger as in normal airbrushin a few hundred times. The two Powercat airbrushs (knockoffs) trigger is too loose for my taste, but they also work fine. The Iwata was the best "as received" and in daily use. This seems to be similar to the experience of  saltydog.  See your 2004 posts below:

MikeV

QUOTE: Originally posted by saltydog QUOTE: Actually the trigger on my Omni 4000 is almost as good as the HP-CS and the Anthem and 360 are just as good as the HP-CS in every way. hmm, thats strange. my omni has a smoother trigger than my hp-c, but the hp-cs is the smoother of the 3. later.

That's the nature of machined parts. Sometimes some are smoother than others. I noticed that my Omni 4000 got smoother as it was used and broken in. Did you notice the same thing.

Mike

How do you compare the trigger action of the Patriot vs the 100LG?

Wow, this thread was pulled back from the dead, probably around the same time I last posted here.

 

I've owned the Eclipse HP-CS for 6 years now and love it for everything "except" applying metallics, for that I have the Revolution HP-CR (.5mm needle), between those two I find you pretty much have airbrush heaven for modelling.

 

Cheers,

 

Snowy

keilau

 

 

How do you compare the trigger action of the Patriot vs the 100LG?

I think the 100LG is a smoother trigger keilau but the Patriot is pretty good as well.

Every airbrush I get I take it apart and put Needle Juice on the needle, trigger and any other moving parts to smooth the action. Having the action perfectly smooth is not that big of a deal to me as it doesn't affect my ability to airbrush something.

You are right Snowy this is an old thread and got me to wondering where old friends on here are at now.

Saltydog, where are you?

You too Roosterfish. Where have you all gone?

No457 Snowy

Wow, this thread was pulled back from the dead, probably around the same time I last posted here.

And these 6 years old posts are good as new today.

I've owned the Eclipse HP-CS for 6 years now and love it for everything "except" applying metallics, for that I have the Revolution HP-CR (.5mm needle), between those two I find you pretty much have airbrush heaven for modelling.

Cheers,

Snowy, can you elaborate a little more on your experience and conclusion. What makes you switch to the larger nozzle of the CR for metallic? What NMF paint do you use? This is a sincere question, not to argue your point.

Up to now, my NMF are limited to spray can and brush paint. I purchased some Talon NMF paints (acrylic) and want to start experimenting. I have been wondering which, the 0.35 mm nozzle Iwata HP-CS or the 0.51 mm nozzle Badger Patriot, airbrush should be my starting point.

Gerald, please join in if you have an opinion.

G'day Mike, long time, no see mate.

Keilau, I like to use the Revolution CR .5mm for metallic paints due to the larger metallic pigment usually in these paints (generally I like to use Tamiya, Testors, Humbrol, etc).

The Eclipse CS is my favourite for everything else, I absolutely love it, but for me it can be prone to a bit of clogging with larger pigments, but this is in no way definitive and could vary with others users depending on preferred paints, etc. The CR just gives that little extra leeway on the metalics for my money and really I would be quite happy if it was the only airbrush I had. 

 

Cheers,

Snowy.

i feel i should pick one up soon. how much would you pay for it? $119 U.S.D from bearair.com (were i got my polarbear 2000 compressor) amazing compressor!

EliteModelling

i feel i should pick one up soon. how much would you pay for it? $119 U.S.D from bearair.com (were i got my polarbear 2000 compressor) amazing compressor!

US$119 is a good, but not exceptional price for an Iwata HP-CS. Being in Canada, it is more important to find a dealer who can ship to Canada at the lowest possible total cost. If you had dealed with them on the compressorbefore, you are probably happy with BearAir. Some of your countrymen may want to comment on that. Get everything, hose etc., you need in one order can save you shipping.

I got my tools and models locally whenever possible. The shipping usually offset any saving in mail order. I do it only when I cannot find the item locally or the special order is too expensive. Good luck with your new AB.