!@#$$% Aztek!!

Well, someone else metioned the Paasche H so I will. I've had mine for over 10 years and have no problem at all except for just recently. It began spraying erractically and I could not for the life of me figure out what it was. Turned out the bottle's pick up tube had a hole in it. Replaced the tube, all is good.

Dana

Then ya shouldn't feel bad... If it's working well for you and you like it then you should feel GREAT.
Sometimes I had good success with mine, but it was just like a teenager (well, the ones in my house anyway), I just never could depend on it. It looked and felt like it should have 'Mattel' stamped somewhere on it.
I just like my Iwata Eclipse so much better.

(I even sleep with it but don't tell anyone else because some people here like to make fun of me )

I feel so bad, I've got an aztec a470, I spray enamels (model master), thin with testors air brush thinner, and clean up with laquer thinner. The only problems I've had were self induced, didn't have the air pressure up to 20psi, didn't screw the tip all the way in after cleaning, that kind of stuff. After a painting session you do need to tear the tip down and soak the tip, spring, and plunger-pin in laquer thinner, but for color changes all I need do is blow some airbrush thinner through it. Before I start a session I'll shoot some airbrush thinner through it too, just to see if all is well before I take aim at some plastic. Haven't had any problems in four years.... Haven't won any IPMS nationals either...so maybe it is the airbrush after all!!!!!!! LOL

QUOTE: Originally posted by therriman I found that to properly clean an Aztek you have to take the needle assy completely apart. And I mean completely.

Kind of negates its major selling point, doesn't it Tim?
Congratulations on dumping that albatross and happy spraying with your new VL.

By the way, I sit on 18 wheels to feed my plastic habit (and family!) too.

OK guys. I used my "new" VL today. I Love It. Hands down much better that that trashy Aztek! I might still use the Aztek but it won't be for the good work.

I've been using an Aztek for awhile now. I wasn't happy with it, but I wanted to get more experence b4 getting a Paasche VL. I finally got one yesterday and today I'll use it for the first time. Looking forward to it!.

I found that to properly clean an Aztek you have to take the needle assy completely apart. And I mean completely.

OK folks, I'm convinced. I've been using an airbrush for only a few months now. An Aztek. Though I've never had it blow up in my face, I've had problems, which I've figured were due to my amateurism. If I were to get a Paasche, would my collection of bottles, caps, etc. still be useable? Also would the Testors mini compressor hook up to it? I mainly mention Paasche because they're readily available in my area and I hate ordering from the internet.

Ok, you folks have convinced me. I've only been airbrushing for a few months now, with an aztek. I've never had it blow up in my face, but I have had problems. If I were to get a paasche, would my collection of bottles, caps, etc. stil be useable? Also would the Testors mini compressor work with it? I mainly mention Paasche because they're readily available near me and I hate ordering from the internet.

I guess I'm one of the minority. I've had the badger and Paasche and went to the Aztek. I find it so much easier to clean, I am reaching for it more readily than a brush. I thin acrylic with windshield washer fluid, the blue stuff. The color doesn't, to my noticing, alter the color except white and it makes it appear more white. It has no smell and it gets my nozzle clean. I hated all the disassembly before and at the end of the session, I use ISO 91% or denatured alcohol to do a final clean up into a filtered jar. The tips are very specific. If you use a tip for acrylics that's not stated for them you MAY have a problem but if you use the tips stated for acrylics, I have never had a problem even when I forgot to thin some polly scale. It pushed it right through. My best results have come from Gunze right out of the jar and Vallejo model air right out of the jar. You never need to throw away your tips due to clogging. Soak them in denatured alcohol and they'll clean out. I guess it's what feels right. That's what Doogie Hartmann told me when I asked him why he never went to the FW-190 even when he said it was better than the 109. He was used to the feel of the 109. good luck, however you spell it.

I also have the Aztec A470. I've had the problems mentioned in this forum. I retired the Aztec and purchased a Paasche VL set.
The Paasche is very easy to use compared to the Aztec. The Aztec I believe is for more specialized type of art work. Where the Passche is more basic and suitable for model building.
By the way I would like to sell the Aztec. It has 8 tips and a wooden case. I'm asking $50.00 if any one is interested.

QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene I am deeply hurt and saddened *tears fall from cheeks* No one has brought up or supported Paasche as a viable alternative to the Aztek.

Sorry Gip, Paasche is much better than an Aztek any old day, but I feel that Paasche just does not build as nice of an airbrush as Badger and Iwata. I personally don't like the fat-bodied airbrushes myself even though I have fairly large hands.
Even at 6' 3" and 205 lbs I still prefer the slim design of my Omni, Vega 1000 and Vega 2000 over the Paasche VL, H, and Badger Crescendo.

Mike

mine always spattered. I can't live without the control of a couble action anymore. I actually do miss the aztek for the airflow control. My badger and iwata seem too limited in this area.

I've used a Paache H for almost 20 years. Works great. Never had a problem until recently when the tip and needle got a little bent. Parts are cheap and it works like a champ again

DJ

I had an H and a VL and hated them. Liked my Aztek better. Then Iwata came down from the heavens and yea verily, I saw that it was good. and the multitudes rejoiced...

I am deeply hurt and saddened
*tears fall from cheeks*
No one has brought up or supported Paasche as a viable alternative to the Aztek.
*tears hit superglue joint, and dissolve glue*
I've had an H for the past 30 years, and it performs as well as the day I got it. Also, several years ago, my brother gave me a VL kit for Christmas. Great brush!
*goes to model room, picks up Paasche H, and strokes it tenderly*
Overall, they're less expensive than Iwatas, too. Especially for us that don't got no money!

Gip Winecoff

I have a Sotar and an Iwata HP-CS. The Iwata can do the same detail that the Sotar can and enamels flow better through the Iwata. Save yourself money and get the Iwata cause it can do just about anything and is cheaper and easier to clean than the Sotar.

I"ve had an Aztec for about two years now and have had a few of the problems mentioned, including the bubbles scenario. The bubbles in my case were produced when the head was not snug in the body. In the last few months I haven't had any problems at all, I double check fit and heads before using (No, I don't work for the manufacturer!). Actually, I've started enjoying using it.

QUOTE: Originally posted by monsterarmor Badger? you listening? do I get a commission here? lol

Badger is the best customer service airbrush company period!

When you email Ken at Badger you are talking to the owner and Ken listens and helps the best he can. I am very impressed with Badger's commitment to airbrush artists and hobbyists.

Mike

I got what you mean now tigerman. I thought you meant there was a picture forum. oh, and this is the Dragon kit.

thanks guys for the compliment. I guess I will post it, i didnt realize we could do that , cool. In response Mike, as you can see in the photo, the camo on the figures was done using the Sotar, so, yes, I think its worth it if your doing that small of work with an a/b. Id recommend it to anybody. Badger? you listening? do I get a commission here? lol

Nice scene monsterarmor!

The reason I asked about comparing the Sotar 20/20 with other airbrushes was because I was curious if the Sotar sprayed that much finer to justify it's cost. That deal you got on Ebay was great and I don't blame you for buying it at that price.

Mike

Nice scene monster. You should post that in the armor forum. Is that the Dragon or Italeri Elefant. Nice cammo job.

"It is well that war is so terrible, lest we grow so fond of it."-R.E.Lee

heres some examples of the a/b camo. All the figures in this scene were a/b using the Sotar, even the camo.

hey Mike, no I havent compared it with other a/b's , but then again, I havent had the extra money to do that. I was fed up with my aztek-nical difficluties and I found the Sotar at a great deal , and have read many reviews about it in Amazing figure Modeler , so I snagged it up. why do you ask, I really havent had any experiance with the Iwata, but Ive heard many good things about it. I am needed a good general purpose a/b though. When I have the moolah , I was thinking of getting an Iwata, and save the sotar for those really detailed a/b projects, like 1/35th camos and my large scale female figures ....I'll post a pic of a 1/35 German figure I a/b on here for an example...

Wayne,
you have that right!

i just can't figure out why i don't have the problems so many others do.
(not that i am complaining!)
i was going to say that "i can't figure out why they have so many problems", but that sounds like i am 'blaming the user'.

i shoot mostly Tamiya acrylics thinned w/ Tamiya thinner. (tan nozzle)
and Future (black nozzle)

i clean w/ tap water (run thru until no color comes out)
between colors.
and then when i call it a night,
lacquer thinner (small color cup full, shot into filtered jar)
i soak the nozzle in lacquer thinner for a few minutes as well.

i must be lucky.

ed.

I had a similar problem with my first Aztek (or should I say modelmaster) air brush many years ago, traced the fault to a fibre washer that is inserted into the body that mates with the base of nozzle. This washer is extremely hard to see. The one in mine had fallen apart, couldn't find a replacement here in aussie, so I replaced the brush with a new model Aztek. Have had no problems with the new brush.

(WildWilliam you are not alone - but by the looks of it we are an endangered species)

Getting paint in the eye ain't a fun experience. I got enamel paint right in one of my eyes when I was a kid Since then I've always airbrushed with safety goggles. AND a respirator with windows open, fans blowin'.

Waltz, check out this site: http://www.bearair.com
Prices for airbrushes are good, customer service is excellent!

DJ

I've owned them all and without a doubt, the Iwata Eclipse series airbrushes are a true modelers dream to use. I did however have some excellent moments with the Aztek A470. I would mainly spray enamels through it with no problems, except when the airbrush would eventually fail! When I sprayed acrylics such as MM Acryl or Polly scale, I would not only get the dreaded back-blast paint explosion, but lots of ruined paint nozzles due to hyper-drying acrylic paint. I still use acrylic accassionally, but I have switched to Tamiya and Gunze. These clean up extremely well with 91% ISO Alcohol, Windex and water. My Aztek is now framed as a relic, while my Iwata Revolution has had free reign.

QUOTE: Originally posted by monsterarmor Mike V Re: I build alot of large scale figures, thats where the 20/20 is best. And I only use acrylics, which work perfect if thinned correctly. So, if anyones looking for an airbrush that can paint a fine thin line, thats the one. Just

Have you ever compared other quality double-action airbrushes to the Sotar with acrylics?

Mike