Air-Brushing Small Parts

The H is a 'brush you can use for all parts, large or small. It's a good idea to anchor your small parts (and there are many ways to do it) before 'brushing them to keep them from blowing away.
Gip Winecoff

That's up to you, but if you decide to go that route may I suggest double sided tape. I save those little three legged thingys that they put in deliver pizza to keep the box off the pie. Put double sided tape on the flat round side and stick your small parts to it. Now you have way to hold the parts while you spray and the pizza thingy holds them till they are dry.

I like to use toothpicks and superglue to make handles for small parts. I'll drill a small hole at an attachment point and superglue the tip of a toothpick at that point then I have a real nice handle to paint with and I can stick the toothpick into some modeling clay so the part can dry.

I use a technique similar to Swanny with toothpicks. But instead of modeling clay as an anchor I use a junk piece of styrofoam. It's cheap as it's free when you buy something packed in styrofoam and who cares if you get paint all over it :)

HRD

Excellent technique you guys! It realy is a matter of personal preference. Sometimes depending on the airbrush you use can make a difference, for example; with the Paasche H loading up and cleaning the separate color cups for small parts can be a pain in the rear and I always end up wasting paint. However for large parts it really is a must if you want professional results. Personally, I use an Iwata Revolution gravity-feed for small parts, general spraying and detail while my Paasche H handles larger parts and clear finishes. The Revolution HP-CR's gravity feed desighn makes it ideal for painting small jobs because it doesn't waste paint. If all I need is a drop or so to paint a pair of engine nozzles for example; thats all I need and I can flush out and change colors rapidly! With my Paasche H the job is much slower, involves a lot of cleaning in between colors and I have to use more paint in the color cup in order for paint to properly siphon up through to the nozzle/ needle....whew! This is not a big deal but I get a lot done in short order with my gravity-feed brush. Sorry if I was long-winded...hope this helps! ;-)

Excellent points Greg!

Mike

Greg, that's why I have a Badger 360. I can use a paint jar for large jobs or rotate the cup to gravity feed and use just a few drops for small parts. I think that the 360 is the best airbrush around for that and many other reasons.

QUOTE: Originally posted by Swanny Greg, that's why I have a Badger 360. I can use a paint jar for large jobs or rotate the cup to gravity feed and use just a few drops for small parts. I think that the 360 is the best airbrush around for that and many other reasons.

Swanny,

Don't forget that Thayer & Chandler (Badger) also makes the Omni Matrix that does the same thing and I think is even nicer than the 360.



Mike

Cool!, have to look at trying out that Omnix Matrix (Badger 360). I try to keep an open mind about modeling tools such as airbrushes. Unlike some modelers I use several different types an don't get brainwashed on a specific type no matter how exciting they seem. Even my Paasche H can do things my Iwata can't. Thanks for show casing the Badger and Omni. Hey MikeV, have you tried the Omni Matrix, I'm curious as to how it performs? Swanny how does the Badger 360 handle fine lines, how fine a line can you get? If I can get it to spray I fine line of about 1/16 inch...I'll have to seriously reconcider the money I've spent on these Japanese airbrushes, if I can get the same results from an American made household name brand like Badger. Thanks again guys!

Greg,

No, I have not tried the Matrix. I do own an Omni 3000 which is internally the same airbrush and it is my favorite airbrush with the Vega right behind it.

Mike