Dry transfer decals

Very easy to use and looks truly like it's painted because it's actually painted on the model.

Never used archer, but I use woodlands scenic etc. a lot.

Name on the bow for instance.

Hello!

Archer transfers sometimes causes problems with application - mostly when they haven't been stored right, they tend to be very tough to separate from the backing paper. This is especially tough, when applying them to tight corners etc. BUT the customer service is just superb, they replace any sheets that cause problems and - look out now! - replace any sheets that have been used up at no cost to the modeller! Plus their research is very solid, so Archer is definitely worth a try. Good luck with your build!

Paweł

I like them.  I also have used other brands, like Letterset.  Archer is nice because they work on sheets of more interest to modelers.  Other brands are more generic, mostly various fonts in black, white or gold, and some symbols.

Do these work over slightly irregular surfaces? Say an injection-molded old wooden boxcar side, or maybe a recessed panel line on an aircraft?

I used dry transfer all the time for presentations and stuff before home computers and printing, can't believe I never tried them on a model.

Hello!

Yes, they work over slightly rough surfaces - when you get them to separate from the backing sheet, you can stipple them down the irregularities and there you have it - painted on look!

Hope it helps and good luck with your projects

Paweł

Thank you for that information, Pawel. In that case,  I look forward to trying one day.

I had trouble with them,it was easier to get water-slides to go over zimmerit for me.

Tojo72

I had trouble with them,it was easier to get water-slides to go over zimmerit for me.

Interesting, and I'd expect as much. Wonder if anyone has had success over a really rough surface like zimmerit?

I think that's asking...a bit much.

I reckon so.

Greg

 

Interesting, and I'd expect as much. Wonder if anyone has had success over a really rough surface like zimmerit?

 

Greg,

  I'm more of an aircraft guy, so I can't speak to Zimmerit, but I used some dry transfer straight lines from woodland scenic to do the yellow rings on some modern USN GBU bombs.  I had created a rough non-skid style texture on the bomb casings with baking soda that I rolled the bombs in while the initial paint was wet.  After a topcoat of paint dried I applied the dry transfers and burnished them down with a rounded off toothpick.  The transfers were really nice because the burnishing sank the markings into the grooves and crevices perfectly and I didn't have to worry about silvering.  Also, even though I was using straight line sections, I was able to get them to curve around the conical bombs with no problems.  To apply the markings I separated the line from the backing, stuck an end down, and then burnished short sections, pulled the next part down onto the bomb, and burnished some more.  Doing one bomb only took me about 5 minutes for both rings.  I hope that helps.

Groot