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I've run into a little problem applying decals to surfaces that aren't flat. When I apply the Microset solution to a surface with any sort of curve, it beads right off almost immediately. Sometimes floating the freshly applied decal off with it. Is there a trick to getting it to stay put long enough for the decal to stick?
Post this in Decals and the "stickers" will set us all straight.
In my own experience, decal problems are usually the decal itself, not the application.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Curved surfaces can be a pain. I use Microsol which seems better than the set on curved surfaces. Also don't flood the surface just put a small amount and get the decal to start setting. Then coat with microsol and let it sit. It should conform as it dries.
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Here is what I suggest: Put the decal on and blot out the water underneath using a damp paper towel, ensuring it is in the place you want it. Once is is relatively set, then brush on the microsol or whatever solution you want. MicroSol is very strong stuff, you might want to start with MicroSet first.
Dont refloat the decal, just get it wet without dripping. Let it set.
Repeat as necessary. Just be patient and let the setting solution work - let it sit overnight. :-)
Good luck and the Decaling Forum may have other suggestions. The nose I did on Big Beautiful Doll took a lot of setting solution and some strategic slicing to get the nose checkers to set.
On the bench: Academy 1/72 B-17G 'Blue Hen Chick'; 1/48 Tamiya Mustang III; Kitty Hawk 1/32 P-39.
Completed: 1/48 Tamiya P-51D Mustang - 'Show Bird', 1/32 Dragon P-51D Flying Tigers 'What if'; 1/32 Tamiya P-51D Big Beautiful Doll
Group build:1/48 Tamiya Mustang III; 1/48 Tamiya P-51D Show Bird
Sounds like you might be expecting Microset to so something it isn't designed to do.
Microset is theoretically a surface preparation solution, to be applied to the surface where the decal will be placed.
Microsol is designed to put onto the already set decal to wrinkle it all up and dry all nice and wrinkle-free and conforming to the surface. It's like Walthers Solvaset but not quite as aggresive.
My 2 cents would be to forget the Microset, and add a drop of liquid detergent to your decal soaking water (to break down the surface tension which it appears you might be getting), once dry give the Microsol a go.
This is my opinion, I don't proclaim to be a decal expert.
I don't use micro set, just apply your decal onto the surface with water, position where it needs to be, use an old tshirt to soak up the water and to lightly press in down and remove out air bubbles.
when it's as good as it gonna get, brush on micro-sol the red bottle, you can either leave that alone to work on its own. But I find it useful to get out the hairdryer and heat up the decal often and also press down more with a soft t shirt if the contours are tricky. You can repeat that as many times as needed.
I assume you have a double-curved/compound curve situation. Decals easily go over a single curvature, but are hell going down over double curvature. One trick is to cut slices in one direction. Such slices help decal settle over compound curves. Even so, if the radius of curvature is small in both directions, it can be hell. Often in this case, many applications of decal solvent is required. Decal solvent is different than setting solution. Setting solution only helps wet the surface/decal interface. Solvent solutions actually do a partial melt of the decal. Micro sol is one brand of solvent. A brand called solvaset is the most agressive- be careful using that brand.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Agree with Don. Lots of times a well placed slice is needed to get a smooth surface. This checker nose, even using the excellent Zotz decal set, needed 6 slices (along various checker lines) to get them to set flat. Helped it was 1/32!
Decal makers could help a lot with this. I have used some decals where the artist built in the needed slits and that was a great help. The artist can design the decal so that the slits are in the best location for when the decal is on the curved surface.
Don't know if this will help but sometimes a little gentle pressure with an earbud will remove excess decal solution while holding the decal in place. With larger decals I've had success with careful, and I mean careful use of the wife's hairdryer.
On the bench: 1/32 trumpeter Douglass Dauntless ,1/48 tamiya Lancaster
Give Solvaset a try. It's extra strong and will settle just about any decal.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Thwaite Don't know if this will help but sometimes a little gentle pressure with an earbud will remove excess decal solution while holding the decal in place. With larger decals I've had success with careful, and I mean careful use of the wife's hairdryer.
There is a weaker version of the hair dryer sold in craft stores, called a stamping iron (I think it is for scrapbook activity but have no idea of what it is for exactly). It is like a hair dryer, although shaped more like a long tube with outlet at end. It has less airflow and less heat (two settings) than a hair dryer. I use it for several purposes on my model bench. Micro Mark now carries one, but Michaels and Hobby Lobby have them to if you wish to buy locally (and use one of those neat coupons). While I have never used it before for decals, it seems like it might work well in that application.
BTW, I mainly use it for shrinking monofilament rigging to tension it, and for heating, softening, and bending thin styrene.
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