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"Shattering" problem 1/48 Authentic Decals VFA-81

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  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Vancouver, WA
"Shattering" problem 1/48 Authentic Decals VFA-81
Posted by jarhead_50_5.0 on Saturday, August 6, 2011 4:28 PM

Hello,

I'm at the end of a 1/48 F/A-18E and was set to decal it with a nice looking set of decals from Authentic Decals in the VFA-81 Sunliners CAG bird.  Once it came time to apply a few of the larger decals and the squadron specific markings, several of them have "shattered" as soon as they touch the water.  I'm not even letting them sit in the water, but a quick dip in and out to sit on a paper towel until the backing paper is lose. 

After the first few shattered, I stopped and coated them with future and let dry overnight before trying to apply them.  Even that hasn't worked.  Any suggestions? 

Most of all I hope no one else has paid for these sets that look really nice, but are just awful to deal with!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, August 6, 2011 4:46 PM

Try some Microscale Decal film on the survivors. I have had good results on fragile decals with thisstuff.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Vancouver, WA
Posted by jarhead_50_5.0 on Saturday, August 6, 2011 5:39 PM

Outstanding suggestion!  Would you brush it on, or airbrush them?

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, August 6, 2011 5:56 PM

I have brushed it on... not sure if I wanted to try to spay it with an airbrush and gum that up.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Saturday, August 6, 2011 11:46 PM

+1 for the Microscale Liquid Decal Film. It's brilliant stuff and cheap insurance for older/suspect decals.

Remember to wash your brush out well before it dries. I'm not quite sure what sort of solvent will work after it's dry on the brush though.

The reason Future doesn't work is that it's not designed to be flexible.

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Vancouver, WA
Posted by jarhead_50_5.0 on Tuesday, August 9, 2011 9:36 AM

Stikpusher,

fantastic idea with the microscale liquid decal film!  It has eliminated about 99% of the problems I was having with this set of decals...other than me being all thumbs as usual.  I'll post a photo of it when I'm done. 

Thanks very much again!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, August 9, 2011 11:11 AM

Youre very welcome Jarhead! Glad to hear it solved your problems there. I look forward to seeing your work.Wink

As far as being all thumbs... i have that same trait myself at times.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Saturday, September 3, 2011 12:27 PM

Testor's Decal Bonder... Rattle-can.. Spray the sheet or individual decals PRIOR to trying to use them.

Make sure you don't get any on the BACK of the paper..

Worked every time for me so far, even on thirty-year old decals...

http://www.policecarmodels.com/tedebosp.html

 

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Vancouver, WA
Posted by jarhead_50_5.0 on Monday, September 5, 2011 12:13 PM

I want to thank everyone for their help and input on this project.  Without your suggestions and ideas I would not have been able to finish it.  Now that this kit is done, I don't think I will ever build another Revell Super Hornet kit ever again due to all the problems with it. 

Here are some photos of how it turned out:

 

  • Member since
    July 2011
Posted by Doug B on Thursday, February 21, 2013 8:04 PM

Hi, I have just torn some more hair out (which I cannot afford to lose) using "Authentic brand" decals on a 1:48 MiG 29 Fulcrum, and found the same problem, they loosen from the backing paper very quickly and when I apply them to a very glossy surface, with plenty of water, (so they are almost floating) then try to manoeuvre them into position they tear/shatter.

The first and last time I will ever use this brand. I have never had trouble with decals like this in over thirty years of modelling.

Regards.

Doug.

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Friday, February 22, 2013 8:58 AM

Did you use the decal film like stated in this thread?? Authenitc decals are terrible for this. They all just break apart without being coated with a clear decal film. I tend to shy away from these decals, which sucks because they have some cool and unique subjects...

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, February 22, 2013 9:10 AM

Sometimes you are not aware that the decals are so old, and they come apart before you are aware they were bad. I have gotten into the habit of scanning all my decal sheets into the computer unless I know the kits are fresh, new kits.  In some cases if the decals are lost I can make inkjet replacements from the scan.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2011
Posted by Doug B on Saturday, April 6, 2013 1:46 AM

No I didn't, but I will get some for future use.  I purchases some Begemot decals but have yet to try them out.

Cheers

Doug

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, April 6, 2013 7:16 PM

From what I've read Begemont decals are much better than Authentic.

 

 

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