Testors decal paper

That's good to know since I already destroyed some. I also use ink jet vinyl. pretty thin. Works good if you can completely trim around the decal. Saved me when I ruined the Star Trek Bird of Prey (TOS).

I find I have to wait at least a full 24 hours- two days is even better- before clear coating.  I happened to read the instructions on some photo paper (Epson) and they recommended not handling images until at least two days.  Even then, I spray a very light coat of clearcoat first and let it dry. I then go back and put on a second coat.

I have used inkjet printers that I could not clearcoat the printing ever- the inks dissolved in any clear coat I tried.  I relegated those printers to non-decal work.  Decal making does require a good match between ink and paper.

GAF,

 What settings are you using on your printer?  I found that if I told the printer I was using photo paper (or anything glossy) that I had problems with the ink getting fuzzy when I sprayed the bonder on.  I actually had the best luck using the normal paper, normal quality setting and printing the decal twice, and then using a toothpick to put one right on top of the other and line it up.  I was doing names on the nose of a 1/48 aircraft, so they weren't that large and it worked fine.

Groot

Thanks, Don.  I have not had much luck with the Testor's Decal paper using the Testor's Decal Bonder over HP ink.

Maybe I need to try a different bonder.  You would think the company bonder would work with the paper, but maybe it doesn't like HP ink!

Scott Leitner

I have a question on this Don.  Surething recommends using only a light coat over the ink, but the problem is, my ink still dissolves.  I'm using the clear decal paper for a dark graphic.  Should I put the bonder on heavier despite what they say?

You need to run some tests.  Some clear coats themselves will dissolve inks and make fuzzy edges on the design.  Other clearcoat/ink combos will look fine until you get them in water.  So make a test pieces, and spray it with a thin coat of sealer.  Then inspect it. If it has fuzzied up, you need a different combination of ink and clearcoat. If it is okay after clearcoat, put it in water. if it starts to dissolve then, you need more clearcoat.  I still recommend a thin first coat of clearcoat, followed later by a heavier second coat.  Getting the right clearcoat for a given ink is a challenge, but once you find it you are on your way.

I have a question on this Don.  Surething recommends using only a light coat over the ink, but the problem is, my ink still dissolves.  I'm using the clear decal paper for a dark graphic.  Should I put the bonder on heavier despite what they say?

There is a very powerful image editor available as shareware.  Check out GIMP. It is almost photoshop powerful.  There is a book out on using it, which is great, as the online manual isn't that great.

I also recommend multiple coats of the clear coat.  And put the first one on very light/thin.

I haven't had any real issues with the paper. The program that comes in the testor's starter kit is ok, but if you want to make your own designs you need to buy the upgrade. If you have microsoft word you can easily create a document with the same size specs as the sheet. My only problem with the paper is that I tend to save up my decal printing needs and then when I fill the digital "page" I print out the sheet. Go VERY easy on the developer. Use a few light coats to ensure the ink doesn't run.

Good luck

I have found printing inkjet decals is very sensitive to brand and even model of printer.  I ended up buying a cheap HP printer just for decals.  My good printer is an Epson, and I had a lot of trouble with Epson inks.  The printer I bought was fifty bucks, and the store agreed to take it back if it did not work with decal paper, as long as I brought it back in two weeks.  Tried it the day I bought it and it worked fine on the paper I regularly used, so it is a keeper.  But again, matching ink and paper can be a problem.

I've only used the Testors paper with the bonding spray.  I've found a couple things.  I can't get really dark blacks (trying to do aircraft side numbers).  I tried printing on a photo setting, which looked great until I applied the bonding spray, then the ink bled a little at the edges so I had a purple haze around the edge of the numbers.  One suggestion I got was to print 2 sets and just put one on top of the other which seems to darken the final product considerably.  I've also found that I have to apply about 3 heavier coats of the bonding spray or the decals just fall apart.

Groot

hasbeen

the times have tried to use testor's decal paper with my canon printer have been unsuccessful.

canon has a sensor which will not allow the use of decal paper, at least on my canon printer.

Hi Hasbeen,

I'm surprised to hear this. I have a Canon printer and can print decals with no problem. What model Canon printer do you have?

the times have tried to use testor's decal paper with my canon printer have been unsuccessful.

canon has a sensor which will not allow the use of decal paper, at least on my canon printer.

I got the assorted pack, some clear some white background and use the bonding spray.

Works well but be careful when using the clear sheets, its good for trimming but of you place it on a dark background the decal could become almost lost.

here's one I just did, I should have lightened where the decal was going or used the white.

I don't use the Testors stuff- I use the stuff from Micro Mark.  However, I suspect that using it would be very similar to the Testors.

There are a lot of tips and suggestions that have appeared in this forum, and I suggest looking back at least four or five months at the list of threads.

The big thing is whether you are making decals with only dark graphics, or whether you need light colors or white in the design.  The later are quite problematic, while dark colors may easily be done on clear decal paper.  Light colored and white designs require white backed decal paper, which can be a bear to use.

Both types need to be overcoated to prevent the ink from dissolving when you immerse the decals in water. Each of us seem to have their own preference on what to coat the printed decal with.