Decaling/Weather order

So just use a paper towel like sanding paper? That's genius! Thanks I'll try that

Once you get to 1000 grit or finer, it takes a lot of sanding to remove much paint.  As long as you stay with really fine grits you shouldn't take off much of the paint- you just smooth it.

Lately I have been using paper toweling as a way to polish paint- cheaper than fine sandpaper.  Kleenex also works but leaves fibers on surface.

Thanks guys. I painted a smaller section and I noticed two things, future really is awesome, and I need to prepare the surface better. The surface was slightly grainy, I think I need to smooth it out a little bit before applying future to the entire model but I'm afraid of sanding the paint off, it's not horrible or anything, the paint job is actually quite good, just a few areas, any advice on possibly sanding/wet standing/magic?!? Hahaha

On flat finishes I only gloss the spots where decals go (to prevent silvering).  Then a single clearcoat to protect decals and give whole model a uniform appearance- then weather. I do not put a clearcoat over the weathering.  I also do not clearcoat Alclad.

1) is there a better way, airbrush or regular brush?

I've heard airbrushing is better, but I haven't tried it yet.

2) how many coats? I've heard many different numbers...

More lighter coats are better than fewer heavier coats.  If you go to heavy, it'll run and pool.

3) after the decals are on do I weather them and then add the final coats of Future or wait and weather the model after the second coat of Future?

After decals go on, seal them.  Future works.  Then do your weathering.  If you don't seal the decals before weathering, you run the risk of doing something bad to the decals.  Sealing after weathering is optional and really depends on how you weathered - washes and paint will probably be okay sealed up, powders not so much. 

4) Has anyone had any trouble with decals silvering or not conforming to raised panel lines?

Heck yes!  A good gloss coat helps, but some decals are very thick.  There are various strengths and formulations of setting solutions.  Decal Set (diluted vinegar) is the weakest, Decal Sol (some strength of isopropyl alcohol) next, and then there is SolvaSet (not sure what's in that).  Start with the weakest and work your way up if you need to.  Apply the solution and wait for it to dry.  Don't touch the decal or try to fix it.  Sometimes as soon as you apply the solution, the decal will wrinkle.  Don't panic.  Just let it dry.

Paul

I think an airbrush is always the best way, but good result can be done with a brush. Normally i apply future to protect the paint if i am useing oil's or enamel washe's. So i apply 2 coats to be safe. Theres no need to add a coat of future on top of your weathering. If you want to aply a second coat to seal the decals, i would do that before the weathering. As for the raise panel lines, you might might to try some sort of setting solution. I use Micro set and Micro sol. These help soften the decals and help draw them over any surface details.