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Tough decaling job.

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, August 12, 2014 10:33 AM

Yes, I have applied dry transfer lettering to clear decal film and was considing that, as well as scanning and making new ones.  Fortunately, the decal film proved to be the easy way out, and a final application of microscale did snug them down.  

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Monday, August 11, 2014 2:27 PM

Hmmm!  I'll have to pay more attention.  I haven't used Badger's, but did have recent need to use MicroScale's.  I didn't notice any particular curling issue--but then, I used it over decals that were connected continuously.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Monday, August 11, 2014 10:12 AM

Using the post it note is a great idea to aid alignment.

Some other ideas I can think of is to make new decals in either one of two ways:

1.)  Align the individual decals on to a clear decal sheet, and then spray with a fixative of some sort.  Now you have a complete decal of the serial, etc.  Only downfall here is the end result might be too thick.

2.)  Scan the decal sheet at 100%, and then cut and paste the numbers etc. on your computer screen.   Printout on clear decal film.

Neither option saves time, but does make it easier to have straight and level numbers.   Also, now there is the risk of silvering as there is clear film between each individual digit.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, August 11, 2014 8:40 AM

I put Badger's decal film on it, but it still doesn't solve everything.  I find decal overcoats want to curve upwards when they dry.  With no contiquous film under the decal, the upward curve is quite strong. I have three coats of micro sol on the decals I did yesterday afternoon and they are still curling up a bit at the edges!

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, August 10, 2014 11:51 AM

Sounds like you got the problem in hand, Don.  Never heard of any manufacturer doing decals that way.

I wonder if MicroScale's liquid decal potion would work to make one decal out of all those single digits?

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Tough decaling job.
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, August 10, 2014 11:47 AM

I have alclad a 1:48 T-6.  Started decaling yesterday- didn't like the kit schemes, so bought a set from a place called Colorado Decals.  I had never used their stuff before.  I put on stars and bars in the morning, and they worked fine.  Then yesterday afternoon I tried applying the ID/tail number and the USAF decals.

Wow, I am used to decals for a single area, like a registration number, or the USAF, etc.  Having carrier film over  the whole area.  Not so with these, they only have decal film under each character!  The decals are extremely thin, which looks nice, and they adhere well.  But, sure is a pain to align!  Very much like letreset or Archer dry transfer stuff.  I did get the USAF logo on okay, and the big side ID numbers are not too bad. 

Then it was time for the tail numbers on the vert stab and rudder. I sure thought they'd have one carrier.  Nope, still individual characters.  Boy, was that a job.  Now there is a smaller "U S Air Force" decal just above the tail number.  Sure hope that has single carrier film.  I can't believe the tiny "no step" and such decals will be individual characters, but we shall see.

The decals are beautiful when you get them applied, except for slight misalignments and variable character spacing, but is SURE a lot of work.  I think I will tear off an edge from a post-it note to help align other decals (I do not have good luck masking alclad- some of it pulls up when I pull off the masking tape).  Oh, being so thin, they break and tear easily with too much tweezer grabbing.

I can see these being applied right to matt paint.  Can't see how they would silver :-)

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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