Micro Sol Setting Solution?

Rex,

    That actually makes sense about having difficulty with decals when they were new and you were just learning your skills.

Not as of yet, DC.

Since I store every decal sheet in plastic bags, in plastic bins, and spray Superfilm on any sheet more than 10 years old or so, I have not had a single decal shatter or not work.

Also, since I know how to make decals on a color laser that weren't ever done by the companies,,,,,,I figure that if I get to "Showtime 100" and mine disintegrates and no one has one for sale,,,,,,,I will just make my own for one of the other VF-96 cruises, maybe even as "Showtime 602" or something rare like that. (and so on for any given unit)

This might sound backwards, but, I had a lot more trouble with decals back when they were new,,,,,,because I was still somewhat of a newbie back then myself.

Rex

Rex,

    As I said, I had the feeling that we were probably close in age.  And I totally understand how now you wouldn't want to compromise on tools.  And I am glad to hear that you are doing well, and as you said only have Anne to worry about.

    On your decal sheets have you started doing what others have suggested and scan your decal sheets into your computer?

Quitting completely was the initial thought when Anne got her diagnosis.

Then, believe it or not, some very candid and honest reviews of products on various modeling websites led to my working out a solution, and staying in the hobby. I came up with a list of products that didn't make her "lose" her various meds, just by walking into the room that I now had to stay in for most of the day. (instead of being out of earshot in my workshed)

So, now I am an Old Fashioned Seventies style modeler using New Style modeling products. When I started in 1965 at the age of 8, I *had* to use a lot of substitute products, because a Schick Injector blade with tape on the back edge was all I could get for a knife, Ronsonol lighter fluid was all I could get for thinner, etc. Sandpaper was the kind used by woodworkers, no wet sanding with that stuff, until I got to a metal shop class in Jr High, and discovered very fine grit Crocus Cloth.

So, today, I very rarely use any compromise tools or materials. I am one of the guys that believes in  "pony up and pay" for the things I need for the hobby. I do use substitute products, but, only if they are better then the hobby stuff, and those usually cost more, not less than the hobby items. I didn't make my own Acrylic thinner because I wanted something cheaper, I made it because of reading about a guy's home made thinner that worked better for his Polly Scale paints than the store bought stuff.

Back to decals,,,,,,,,I am sometimes using antique decals, bought for more than they sold for at retail, and then using Superfilm on those hard to get sheets. I can't afford to vary from the "Microscale Method" by leaving out a step, because I might not ever see that decal sheet again.

Here's a little laugh for you,,,,,,sometimes I am using Antique decals on Modern kits,,,,,,such as Esci decals on an Academy F-8 Crusader,,,,and other times, I am using the latest Vagabond decals on old kits such as the first generation F-4B tooled by Hasegawa, a model so old that companies out of business sold licensed versions of it in the seventies.

Rex

(oh, for those that know about this, and wonder,,,,,,,it also helps that my tumors have all been coming in benign for the past two year's worth of tests, so, it is now just one of us that I worry about, instead of both)

Rex,

If one is using a one of a kind custom decal sheet that may or may not be available at a later time it is understandable that they would want to do everything that they can to insure that they do it right the first time.

And from reading the various threads on stripping paint from finished models, I can understand that doing so is not always the easy process that one would think that it is/should be.

I can also understand how and why having to make a “major” change in how they do things i.e. switching from enamels to acrylics or lacquers can cause a person who has only used enamels to consider giving up the hobby.  As I hate to admit it but I have a “prejudice” if you will in regards to acrylics, I for whatever reason really don’t see them as being a “good” paint for finishing a model.  Even though I know that they are just as good, if not better depending on the job as enamels or lacquers.

Exactly, I suspect that you and I are probably close in age.  And when we started our model building “careers” we used Testors either in the tube or the liquid in a little bottle either with or without a brush.  And even though now there is a whole collection of glues to use in building our models a LOT of us still use Testors as our go to glue/paint.

Again, I agree, and understand.  Some people are happy with their skills where they are at and then there are others who are not happy unless they are virtually relearning how to build models with every build.

And again, there is nothing wrong with that approach if it works for you.

I use a lot of OOP aftermarket decals. That sometimes means that I don't get second chances.

And anytime I tried to stripe paint off for a retry, I have the putty, surfacer and primer either coming off or getting "gunky".

That is part of the reason that I don't vary from my routine very easily. Having to switch from Enamels to Acrylics almost made me quit the hobby instead.

But, always keep in mind that I am different than a lot of modelers. I only care about learning a new technique if for some reason my old products go away. I learned to build models, have a list of what I want to build,,,,,so that is what I do.

Others want to try new things on each build, and have a whole rack of techniques under their belts,,,and that is okay for them, too.

I can stay "set in my ways" for 10 or 12 more years, at least,,,,,,,,,and then I will have to learn how to use some new products. I just hope when that time comes that there really are new products to replace the OOP ones I will have run out of.

Rex

True, I understand that.  But by the same token.  IF one does have a decaling disater, and as long as the kit is still in production.  Shouldn't one be able to get a new sheet from the manufacturer, or as an aftermarket item?

as always, just trying to help.

A disaster at the decaling stage has to be the worst possible timing, we put so much work into them, get them to that part, and then if we have a mishap, we've wasted a kit, the paint, and the decals,,,,plus all that time and effort.

Rex,

    Thank you for the advice.  Right now I only have a bottle of Testors Decal Set No. 8804.  And I already understand that Micro Set and Micro Sol are two different products used at two different stages of applying decals.

    I was only "lumping" them together because they're from the same company.

DC, you REALLY want to separate your thinking on "Set/Sol",,,,,,as long as you bunch them together like that, you run the risk of using the two very different products out of order on a model. That always results in one of those posts about a "decal disaster"

You use Micro-Set on the model surface and then Set the decal over it, and then after the decal is in place, you use Micro-Sol and let that Solvent melt the decal to help it conform to your surface.

And as I just read over on Hyperscale by a poster,,,,,,,put some tape around your Micro Superfilm bottle so that you don't mix it's blue lettering up with the Set and Sol. After I read that guy's story, I went and taped a new label on the active bottle of Superfilm. What a mess he made.

Rex

Don,

    Thank you for the information.  I still plan on picking up some of the Micro Set/Sol next weekend.  I also while I am there plan on picking up one bottle each of the Tamiya plastic cement and trying it to see how I like it compared to Testors.

There is little difference between brands of setting solution- most are just acetic acid and water, and the ratio seems quite similar from brand to brand.  Seems to be a lot more variation between brands of solvent.  Some are moderately strong, some are very strong.

John103rd,

    Thank you for your question, I was just wondering what if anything is the difference between Micro Sol/Set and Testors decal set.  One of the LHS' that I go to carries both products.  And I ment to pick some of the Micro Sol/Set up this past weekend when I was there, but can do so next weekend.

I wonder if you could put that stuff in a perfume atomizer so you could apply a fine mist without touching the decal?

That's why you need to reapply when dry. Yes,  you can definitely damage them if you try to fiddle with them when they are soft. Micro Sol is probably the mildest of the decal solvents and works for me most of the time, but I use AM decals for the most part.

Jay

Personally I always use setting solutions, but reserve solvents for problem decals that do not nestle down with just the setting solution.  Most solvents are pretty aggressive, so you can damage decals fiddling with them after applying the solvent.  This is particularly true with Solvaset which is super aggressive.

I think it depends on the decal.  Some of those things are printed so thick that paint stripper wouldn't soften them and others fall apart on the sheet.  I spent several days trying to get Eduard decals to settle down.  Finally had to use a brush to push the decal into the panel lines.

Commonly done when you have a bubble. Make a small slit and apply Micro Sol and it will settle down.

Jay

Never worked for me

I use it later all the time and it works for me.

Jay

Once your decals are set and dry,the solution will have no effect on them.The solution is to soften them at time of application to help them to snug down into panel lines or over raised detail.

So no,solution can't be used later.

Because I've never use the stuff before on decals. The way I normally  do it  is dip the decal to water then apply the decal to the model.

thanks!

Don't know why you wouldn't put it on at the time of application, but yes you can apply it later and it will still soften the decal. Sometimes you do have to go back over an uncooperative area the next day.

Jay