decal making

tiger88mm

folowed the directions to a t,the decal will not release from the photo paper, what are some possibilities for this

Make sure you trim your decal as close to the printed detail as possible... then float your decal in warm water upside down on the surface (makes sure the printed side is down in he watr) and watch as the water soaks in til it reaches the center.  When it does the decal shoud slide off easily.  I've done this myself hundreds of times... it's not that difficult or different from using regular decals.  But if you are having difficulty, try spraying the glossy side with a little Future floor wax and let it dry before printing, thou I've never had a problem without it.

folowed the directions to a t,the decal will not release from the photo paper, what are some possibilities for this

Don Stauffer

I seem to remember something I heard about a number of years ago, that was used in decopage, where folks would take an image printed in a newspaper or magazine, and apply a transparent coating, like a varnish or lacquer to the illustration.  Then they would soak the coated picture in water.  Apparently the varnish or lacquer would dissolve a lot of the ink, and when wet, one could rub away the paper, getting something similar to a decal.  Only difference is you had to coat the surface you were applying the "decal" to in order to provide an adhesive (you coated the wood or whatever with the same varnish you coated the paper with.

But see there's the beauty of it.  You don't need to apply anything to the surface you're applying the decal to.  The surface will act as a suction for the decal as it dries and when you apply the same clear coat you used, it will "fix" the decal to the surface just like paint.  One thing I've learned is that sometime you can apply a little distilled white vinegar to the surface to "soften" the decal up so that it conforms to all the little panel lines and rivet details on the surface (if it's not just a plain flat surface) and the decal will almost melt into those features.  They stopped putting "adhesive" on decals for plastic models a long time ago.  I remember back when I had those types of decals. The problem with them was that the "glue" they used tended to yellow the decals after a period of time.  If you've bought a vintage model kit with those types of decals today you're probably familiar with this.  But since they stopped adding the glue, those decals have lasted alot longer.  I suggest staying away from Testor's Dull/Gloss Coat sprays.  Those WILL yellow over time by themselves.  I HIGHLY recommend a Rust-o-leum Clear Satin/Gloss spray.  It's five times as much product for a fraction of the price, lasts alot longer, and doesn't yellow at all over time.  Just a few tips for all you out there!  I'm still waiting to see if anyone has tried it yet.  I may have to do a video tutorial on this at some point.

I seem to remember something I heard about a number of years ago, that was used in decopage, where folks would take an image printed in a newspaper or magazine, and apply a transparent coating, like a varnish or lacquer to the illustration.  Then they would soak the coated picture in water.  Apparently the varnish or lacquer would dissolve a lot of the ink, and when wet, one could rub away the paper, getting something similar to a decal.  Only difference is you had to coat the surface you were applying the "decal" to in order to provide an adhesive (you coated the wood or whatever with the same varnish you coated the paper with.

GMorrison

I guess I don't get it. When you soak the paper in water, the gloss finish on the paper, with the ink on top of it and the clear spray over that, comes free of the paper itself?

No... the photo paper is made in such a way the gloss finish remains attached to the paper.  It's embedded in the fibers of the paper so it remains unharmed.  The only thing that comes loose is the ink that is printed and any clear spray you paint on top of it to fix it in place.  The spray actually protects the water soluable ink from smearing.  It actually tints the clear spray and when it dries it remains in place.  The clear spray then becomes the thin decal itself.  When its soaked in water, the water gets between the spray and the gloss coating of hte photo paper and allows it to slide off just as a normal decal would.  Its really a simple process.  Give it a try for yourself and see!  The only thing you have to lose is maybe a sheet of photo paper and a little time in making the graphic if it doesn't work for you.  But if you follow my directions you shouldn't have any problems whatsoever.  Try it and lemme know how it comes out for you!  Test it out with a grahic you get off the internet... once you try it out, you'll be asking yourself why you haven't done it before!  Its so easy its scary and is a great addition to your modelling arsenal!

I guess I don't get it. When you soak the paper in water, the gloss finish on the paper, with the ink on top of it and the clear spray over that, comes free of the paper itself?

Lemme know how your test comes out. I've been doing it for years so I know it works! If you have any questions you know how to find me!

Interesting. I do have some HP Photo paper. Something I need to give a try.

Don Stauffer

 Tell us more.  I had never heard of using photo paper for decals.  Does the coating of photo paper release when you wet the paper?  Where does the adhesive go? How do you apply it?

I've been doing it for years... there is no adhesive on decals.  The photo paper itself when its wettened, allows the water to get between the gloss surface and the thin layer of clear spray paint you put over it.  Here's the method... try it at home and experiment... that is how I learned how to do all my modeling...

1) Measure the area you want to place a decal... try to get as accurate as possible... for this example we'll say that the area we are dealing with is 1"x.5" inches.

2) Create your image in a paint program... use the formula for Dots Per Inch... the higher the resolution your printer can print the better... let's say the highest is 600dpi... your graphic should be 600 pixels wide by 300 pixels high for printing at 600dpi.

3) Set your printer to the high DPI (600dpi) Best Quality and Resolution, insert your photo paper (always make sure you use the glossy photo paper!) and print away.

4) Set the photo aside  to allow the ink to dry (I usually allow it to dry overnight).

5) When the ink has dried, spray with a clear gloss spray paint.  1-2 layers is typical for decals... a couple more layers for thicker more durable decals.  The initial first coat should be done lightly to make sure the ink does not smear.  Allow the clear paint to dry and cure completely (again, usually overnight works).

6) Now you've got your decal just like any other decal you would use from any other kit... the only limitation you have with printed decals is you can't print WHITE.  So just like any other decal, dip in water, slide off the photopaper backing and onto the surface of the model you want it on.

A couple of tips... Use a little of distilled white vinegar to soften the decal up (works on actual decals too) before applying to the surface.  This will allow the decal to dip into detailed recesses realistically.  When it is on the surface, dab with a soft paper towel to remove any moisture and then spray a coat of clear over the top to seal it to the surface of the model.

VIOLA... you've just made your first self customized decal for your modeling needs.  Comes in so handy for stuff... I discovered this method a long time ago on my own.  Laughed at Testor's Decal Making Kit that had the exact same things that I used for years prior!  Lemme know how it works out for you and show us some pics!

LrdSatyr8

I use HP Glossy Photo Paper... its the same thing only a bit more rugged.  THen use a Rustoleum Clear Gloss spray to cover it.  I put at least 2 layers on (more for thicker decals, 1 for thinner more delicate decals).  Works great!  Just got to make sure to let the ink dry completely over night before spraying with the gloss coat or the ink will run.

 

Tell us more.  I had never heard of using photo paper for decals.  Does the coating of photo paper release when you wet the paper?  Where does the adhesive go? How do you apply it?

I use HP Glossy Photo Paper... its the same thing only a bit more rugged.  THen use a Rustoleum Clear Gloss spray to cover it.  I put at least 2 layers on (more for thicker decals, 1 for thinner more delicate decals).  Works great!  Just got to make sure to let the ink dry completely over night before spraying with the gloss coat or the ink will run.

I like the stuff Micro Mark sells, or the stuff from Bare Metal Foil.

Yes, the clear sealing coat does slightly increase the thickness of the decal, but it is not objectionable, and it is a necessity, since most inkjet inks are water soluble.  Since the paper is not applied to the model, it has no effect on the thickness.  The carrier film, which IS applied, is quite thin on any decal paper I have used in recent years.  As a result, one must use care on these decals to prevent them from rolling up and sticking to themselves, just like the thinner kit decals.  Try to avoid picking up the film from the backing with tweezers- instead slide decals from paper onto model surface.