I call to you airplane builders who put amazing work on your decals

My method with those long ones is not to remove the decal from the backing paper ahead of time, but place decal and paper up close to where the decal will go, on the surface of the model.  Then, slide the decal from the backing paper directly to the model.  Do not hold those long decals suspended in space.  They will indeed curl back upon themselves, or fold glue side to glue side.  Sometimes I will hold end of decal to model in the proper place with tweezer, and pull the decal backing paper back away from the decal.

So the long side decals, stripes, around the crowling??. How the heck do you make these with out breaking! And look like they have not been through a earth quake!

Billmc

So do you put down a good amount of the decal solution or water, or both. If both do you lay down the solution under the water. Wont the water dissolve the solution?

 

The point of the setting solution is to make the water wetter, reducing the surface tension and eliminate beading up.  So the water does dilute the solution, but this is okay.  I start with just the setting solution (it is already a dilute solution).  If more water is needed, I add it.  The solution may dilute further, but this is usually not a problem.

GMorrison

Pawel nailed it.

I'd reinforce two of the points.

1. When I was younger, I'd put the decal in a plate of water and wait until I could poke it loose. Bad idea. Now I put it in until I can see that the backing paper has absorbed water, then put it on a piece of paper towel to let it dissolve the glue.

2. Cut up a long decal. The plusses outweigh the minuses.

 

And...

If you have access to a scanner, make a high res scan of the sheet. It's perfectly legal if it's for yourself.

 

 

Hello!

I'm glad you liked my comments. I believe I see the problem now - if you kick the decal with decal solution before positioning it, it will likely stick for good. The thing is to position the decal with some water first. You can also add some MicroSET (!), some even take strong vinegar here for better adhesion. Some printed decals tend to stick on pure MicroSet, but adding some water helps moving the decals. After the decal is positioned to your satisfaction, you can use paper towel or something like that to remove excess water, but be careful - otherwise you're bound to move the decal.. Press down with the paper towel, and just then you can add the MicroSOL, Solvaset or what else you have. It doesn't have to be a lot of it neither.

Good luck with your decals and have a nice day

Paweł

GMorrison

Pawel nailed it.

I'd reinforce two of the points.

1. When I was younger, I'd put the decal in a plate of water and wait until I could poke it loose. Bad idea. Now I put it in until I can see that the backing paper has absorbed water, then put it on a piece of paper towel to let it dissolve the glue.

2. Cut up a long decal. The plusses outweigh the minuses.

 

And...

If you have access to a scanner, make a high res scan of the sheet. It's perfectly legal if it's for yourself.

 

 

A second (or third) on cutting longer decals.  You can slide them together and they look just fine.

Separate but related question; soaking the decal for say a minute vs a few seconds.  What is behind the time in the water?  If you are separating the decal from the paper, why not let the water do the work?  If you are putting lots of water under it to slide it around for positioning, it would seem that any glue on the decal isn't it.  What am I missing?  Thanks guys.

John

Pawel nailed it.

I'd reinforce two of the points.

1. When I was younger, I'd put the decal in a plate of water and wait until I could poke it loose. Bad idea. Now I put it in until I can see that the backing paper has absorbed water, then put it on a piece of paper towel to let it dissolve the glue.

2. Cut up a long decal. The plusses outweigh the minuses.

And...

If you have access to a scanner, make a high res scan of the sheet. It's perfectly legal if it's for yourself.

So do you put down a good amount of the decal solution or water, or both. If both do you lay down the solution under the water. Wont the water dissolve the solution?

I also endorse Pawel's comments, especially the tweezers.  Do not scrimp buying them. I have several sets of tweezers, most cheap, but one quality set with needle-sharp points. 

Proper use of decal setting solutions and solvents is important.  Decal solvents are not the same as setting solutions.  I always use decal set, only use solvents for really tough cases, since you can really screw up a decal when you apply the solvent.

Pawel

Check with tweezers or a toothpick, if it already moves on the backing paper. If it does, just slide it on the model where it belongs.

At the risk of poking a hole or otherwise damaging decals, I prefer to use a moistened paintbrush for pushing small decals around.

Yeah, what he said. Saliva? That's a new one, Pawel, LOL!

Hello!

OK, let me take a shot.

Small decals -> good tweezers. Also, don't keep 'em in the water for too long. Just dip in warm water (holding with said tweezers) and put them on the model near the place where they belong and wait a minute for the glue to dissolve. Check with tweezers or a toothpick, if it already moves on the backing paper. If it does, just slide it on the model where it belongs.

Sticking decals (I mean too soon?) - make sure there is some water between the decal and the coat of future. Make sure the future is really dry (several hours should do it). Some recommend putting a little saliva on the model (I never had to try this one myself!)

Stripes - try drawing a line with pencil to aid you in putting it on straight. You can also try cutting up the stripe in smaler portions and apply them one after another.

It also helps with all decals to prop your model in such way as to have the surface the decal goes on horizontal. This way if you put a drop of water or solvent in place, it stays there.

I hope it helps you - good luck with your modelling projects and have a nice day

Paweł