please help me saving my F117

It looks to me you applied decals on a flat clearcoat surface. Decals stick better on gloss clearcoat surface. Do you use Micro set as well? I use both Micro set and sol when applying decals.

no, i didnot use micro set, only micro sol. i used flat blue acrylic from testros.

Definitely not put on a good glossy surface. The glossier, the better!

Best way I have found...first, GLOSS(I use Minwax lacquer). I don't bother using micro-set anymore, instead, I brush on a pool of Future, just where the decal will go, place decal, blot out excess as you normally would. This has completely eliminated all the issues I ever had with "silvering"(the issue you have there). After dry, another gloss coat to seal em in...then washes and a final clear flat.

Anyway, for a fix...possibley...You could try thinning down some white glue (I like Testors clear parts glue) with some water...brush it on around the edges. You might get some capilary action to suck in the mix. It'll only go so far though(that's a big decal), you may have to cut several spots within the decal to soak some in through there. You could do the same with Future, if you have it on hand.

That's the best I can think of, short of stripping it off, puting down a good gloss and ordering(or hoping somone here has a spare) a replacement decal.

sometimes just putting a small spot of Future acrylic floor coating where you need to apply decals is enough to allow the decal to adhere well. Dull coat after decaling.

thanks all. I do have pledge floor finish in hand.  is there anyway I can safely remove the decal and re apply?

yf23pav12

.... is there anyway I can safely remove the decal and re apply?

 

Doubtful...but you could try soaking in water...if it loosens up, slide it onto a piece of wet decal backing paper. That will dry, by the time you get a good gloss to dry enough to be able to re-lay the decal...which may not want to be freed from that backing paper again. (In the past, I have had a decal get wet, then dry, still on the paper...another good soaking did free it up though). You're kinda flirtin with disaster though, me thinks.

Or you can poke a LOT of pin holes into the silvered clear areas and then apply the Future/Pledge. The stuff should go thru the holes and fill the air spaces beneath. Repeat as needed. Once the silvering is gone a dull coat can be applied to tie it all together.

ok, I will try to fix it later today. Next time, I will spray FUTURE for flat paint before decal. but my questions are,

1. spray FUTURE all over model? or just spot brush FUTURE where decal sit just like micro set, then immediatly put decal on before FUTURE dry?

2.Will FUTURE make the model looking glossy  , but I want the model be flat looking?

yf23pav12

ok, I will try to fix it later today. Next time, I will spray FUTURE for flat paint before decal. but my questions are,

1. spray FUTURE all over model? or just spot brush FUTURE where decal sit just like micro set, then immediatly put decal on before FUTURE dry?  

Yes just in the location of the decal. This is the "gloss coat" you need to avoid "silvering".

yf23pav12

2.Will FUTURE make the model looking glossy  , but I want the model be flat looking?

 

Yes, but after it dries (remember to overcoate your decal with Future if you ar going to weather you model).

Once dry the "last top coat" can be flat or simi-gloss or gloss, your choice. 

The issues I see with glossing only the decal area and not the entire model is that when the final flat coat is applied the overall finish may not be the same. I rather gloss up the entire model but it's up to the individual.

As a fix for your problem I would try using a new #11 blade and carefully slicing some areas and then apply Solvaset over it. This method has worked for me in the past.

Another method though time consuming is to carefully re spray the color in between the stars. Set your ab at low psi and pretend to be doing German mottling around the stars. Let the paint dry for an hour  or so and then use a small thin brush dampened in paint thinner (do not use lacquer thinner) and carefully remove the over spray from the stars. Like I said this is very time consuming but it works as I have used this method many times on stubburn silvered areas. 

Another method though time consuming is to carefully re spray the color in between the stars. Set your ab at low psi and pretend to be doing German mottling around the stars. Let the paint dry for an hour  or so and then use a small thin brush dampened in paint thinner (do not use lacquer thinner) and carefully remove the over spray from the stars. Like I said this is very time consuming but it works as I have used this method many times on stubburn silvered areas. 

Not at all a bad idea...I have done this as well...on a much smaller scale. Resluts were good.

Any updates whether you were able to fix the problem?

sorry for the late updte. I punch some holes and hand brush with FUTURE, ended with disaster(uneven surface) . I have to sadly send it to trash. I just bought another kit and begin to build again today. I will apply FUTURE with AB before decal. I also bought AV matt varnish(good choice?) and hope to bring the flat finish back. Thank you all for the help.

update today. I still get same issue even after AB spraying FUTURE. oh,well, I should have chosen the old F-117 kit which has a decal with both white star and blue background.

You're still getting silvering of the star decals even with a good gloss base?

yes, maybe I sprayed not enough FUTURE?

stikpusher

You're still getting silvering of the star decals even with a good gloss base?

 

if you have a good smooth gloss base, you can get out the air bubbles, the cause of silvering, with  pokeing holes in the silvered areas using a pin, and repeated applications of decal set or solvent. Repeat as needed. It may take time and multiple goes, but it eventually works.

unfortunetely, it does not work. maybe it not gloss. I use Pledge FloorCare Finish as FUTURE.  Thank you

I tried Future on a couple models...did not like it one bit. Went back to my quart of Minwax gloss lacquer(thinned 50/50 for a/b use). Even this isn't the "be all end all". I run a buffing wheel in the Dremel over areas that will get the decals. Future does still have a great use. When it comes time to place the decals, I'll brush on a little Future, in lieu of setting solution...slide the decal on over the Future...then proceed as usual. This has vertually eliminated silvering issues for me.

when  you brush FUTURE, the area is little bigger than decal, so it will create the difference between the spot and base color, how do you fix it?

fermis

I tried Future on a couple models...did not like it one bit. Went back to my quart of Minwax gloss lacquer(thinned 50/50 for a/b use). Even this isn't the "be all end all". I run a buffing wheel in the Dremel over areas that will get the decals. Future does still have a great use. When it comes time to place the decals, I'll brush on a little Future, in lieu of setting solution...slide the decal on over the Future...then proceed as usual. This has vertually eliminated silvering issues for me.

 

I put the Future on, immediately before the decal....decal in place....I use paper towel to press out the excess Future and water and to soak up the excess. Give the decal a minute to set, I wet my finger and wipe around the area (not touching the decal) to further clean up any ecxess Future. It still won't look perfect, but your gloss coat, over the decals will even things right out.

thanks for the tips. will try it.

fermis

I put the Future on, immediately before the decal....decal in place....I use paper towel to press out the excess Future and water and to soak up the excess. Give the decal a minute to set, I wet my finger and wipe around the area (not touching the decal) to further clean up any ecxess Future. It still won't look perfect, but your gloss coat, over the decals will even things right out.