Decal Making for Dummies?

I gave it another try with the inkjet and then 3 light coats of sealer with plenty of time to dry in between.

Thanks Pat, I cant really say Ive seen that around my parts.

100ml clear gloss spray no. 119-S.

68GT

The inkjet is a Canon MG6420 and the ink is whatever my wife buys but the laser is a comecial HP at work with HP toner.  I wouldnt think the laser would run at all but it did.

Maybe I should just do lite coats of the sealer?

 

 

A light first coat certainly helps.  Keep in mind laser toner is carbon black in a wax carrier.  Many organic solvents do dissolve wax.  As for the Canon printers, I used to have one and it was not good for decals.  At that time I bought a cheap Epson just for decals.  Later I bought a large format more expensive Epson and found it okay for decals, except they need to dry for about three days and need a very light first coat and a heavier second coat of sealer.

The inkjet is a Canon MG6420 and the ink is whatever my wife buys but the laser is a comecial HP at work with HP toner.  I wouldnt think the laser would run at all but it did.

Maybe I should just do light coats of the sealer?

Depends on the brand and model of the printers.  Some inks are real bears to coat.

Even among the same brand of printer the inks are different from model to model.

68GT

So, what am I doing wrong here.  The one on the left is printed by a laser and the one on the right an inkjet.  Both are printed on Experts-Choice clear paper and sprayed with Testors decal bonder spay that smells like clear laquer.  I applied maybe 3 light coates and then went a heavier one and this happened after the hevier one.  Had plenty of time for drying between coats.

 

Did you let the original print cure long enough? Most of the time when I have ink run, it's because I did not wait long enough before adding the clear. At least a day, ideally more.

I don't think the heavy coat did the damage- the earlier coat probably did, but was a delayed effect.

I would try to bond it in one or two coats max.

My own problem right now- I just replaced my inkjet printer. I have to start all over again adjusting parameters starting with the settings on my PC's print driver, the setting on the printer, on and on.

Anyone have some thoughts before I waste more paper?

Maybe just stick with the light coats?

So, what am I doing wrong here.  The one on the left is printed by a laser and the one on the right an inkjet.  Both are printed on Experts-Choice clear paper and sprayed with Testors decal bonder spay that smells like clear laquer.  I applied maybe 3 light coates and then went a heavier one and this happened after the hevier one.  Had plenty of time for drying between coats.

Be sure to scan it with as high a resolution as possible.  I recommend at least 600 ppi.

I sent you my email as a message. If you prefer to mail it, I can send you my PO Box number as well.

Hello to GMorrison,  I want to let you know I now have the decal sheet I referred to earlier. You mentioned scannng it and I gather uploading it to this thread in order to make it available to you for you to do your magic. Any other suggestions? I could actually send the decal sheet to you, if you deemed that acceptable. Let me know. Meanwhile, I'll work on getting it scanned for viewing. Thanks again.

Wow, I certainly wasn't expecting a reply like this. You are very generous. It will probably take me a few days to get a scan to you. The decal sheet I'm interested in is currently on e-bay, and the item doesn't end until tonight. Assuming I'm able to get it, once it arrives I'll then be able to scan it. Thanks for your kind offer, and I'll get back with you.

If you can scan it, or find it on the web, send the file to me and I'll see what I can do.

ill

I hope this is the correct thread in which to ask this question. I'm building a 1/72 Academy f-89A/B Scorpion. I'd like to use an existing decal sheet with a unit badge for this model but the decals are in 1/48 scale, and the unit badge is too big for the vertical stabilizer. So, can I take an existing decal sheet and reduce it in scale to 1/72 for my model? Most importantly, how do I go about doing this, assuming that it is possible? Thanks.  

Thanks Bill, thats a lot of great info.

PatW

There's only one I use and it's Plasti-Kote rattle can, also called Valspar.

 

There's only one I use and it's Plasti-Kote rattle can, also called Valspar.

PatW

 I also found that when you buy the sheets, with either clear or white backing, it tells you in the pack just what you need to do, and have never looked back! 

Say the decal image is 1" x 2". I cut out a piece of decal paper slightly larger, with a border of 1/4" or so on the edge that leads into the printer from the manual feed tray.

I lightly write "W" or "C" on the back with a soft pencil.

I tape the decal paper over the printed image on the larger page using tape along that border. I try not to make the piece of decal paper too small as fishing it out of the printer if it comes off during printing is a hassle, plus a waste of paper.

I run the paste up through the manual feed slot again and print. Usually the image comes out nicely placed on the piece of decal paper.

Then I let it dry for at least a day, more if I can stand it. If you rush it, the colors run and it's all wasted effort.

After it is dry, I shoot it with a coat of Testors Decal Bonder spray.

I let that dry at least a day. 

I look on the back. If the decal has a "W" I know to cut around the edge of the image, or use on a white surface. That's why I avoid white decal film if I can.

If it has a "C" I just cut it out carefully to minimize the film edge.

In either case, your decal will be exactly what you cut out You can get fancy and cut through the clear coat and film but not the paper. That gives you something to hold onto.

One more thought, as this is getting long. The best way to make white numbers or letters is to write the type in outline, with the outline color the same as the model surface. That gives you a little extra to cut along and keeps the letter form sharp.

So for instance if it's a white number on a black airplane, use a black outline. Other usual suspects are blue or olive drab. Or, if you have a symmetrical image like a star or a "zero, print the image on the back of the decal paper, cut it out and flip it over.

Bill

PatW

So now with all older kits I spray on two coats, drying between, enamel gloss clear from a rattle can, light coats.

What clear coats have you had good results with?

I guess the only thing I need to do is quit procrastinating.

GMorrison

 

The side of this I haven't invested time in is creating art. I still rely on downloading images from the net and printing them. I do intend to take all of this free time (right!) and learn the basics.

 

 

Bill

 

Like Bill, I use existing photographs if possible.  Google Images has an overwhelming number of aircraft, car, and ship photographs.  If you can get side-on shots you can often edit the picture to remove the livery details to make decals. I have also been surprised by the number of decal set images I find.  As a sometimes author I tend to respect copyrights, so I do not post decal images from kits, but I am willing to share my own creations, and I must admit to using the images that others post.

I've printed my own decals for about 5 years now. My first problem was buying as I do old kits. Opening the box not thinking about how rough the decals look I tried to use them, disaster!

So now with all older kits I spray on two coats, drying between, enamel gloss clear from a rattle can, light coats. You just need to remember that you have to be very careful cutting round them closely before dipping them into warm water to lay up.

 I was very reluctant to try to print my own so looked up YouTube and found numerous tips on printing them. I also found that when you buy the sheets, with either clear or white backing, it tells you in the pack just what you need to do, and have never looked back!

I've been doing a lot of reading on making decals over the years but havn;t actuaal made the jump yet.  Been having some bad luck with ddecals falling apart lately even when using micro decal film.

To add to Don's advice. All printer/ paper/ art quality combos are different. I spent a lot of time removing variables before I got a good process. 

When you do, write it down.

Probably the hardest parameter to change is your printer. You'll want a color printer with a manual feed option. Either laser or inkjet.

The paper for each is different, so make sure that you get the correct one when you buy it.

You can't print white without spending a lot of money on a certain type of printer. There are ways to work around that, but that's getting ahead of ourselves here.

The side of this I haven't invested time in is creating art. I still rely on downloading images from the net and printing them. I do intend to take all of this free time (right!) and learn the basics.

I would start by getting both clear and white decal film from Micro Mark, the correct type for your printer. For a clear coat, I've been happy with Testors Decal Bonder in a spray can.

Happy to walk you through a project.

Bill

There have been previous threads on that you can search for, and I did an article on it in FSM a few years ago.  I would start with dark decals.  Decals with white or lighter colors in it are much harder, and i would tackle the dark decals on the clear decal paper for awhile till you get the hang of it.  I use the paper sold by Micro Mark.  Some printer inks do not work well, others work fine.  Allow a lot of drying time, two to three days.  The decals must be overcoated because the inks are all water-soluble.  There are a number of clear coats you can use.