Best "Fixative" for DIY decal sheets

I do a lot of home-printed decals, and all I've ever used for those is Testors Decal Bonder. It lays down nice thin coats and seals really well, stays nice and flexible.

[I'm not 100% sure it isn't the same thing as their Gloss Coat, since it smells just the same. The Krylon may well be the same sort of stuff as well.]

I do also use Microscale's decal film, but mainly to brush on old or dodgy decals to keep 'em from cracking and splintering. Works great.

Ditto.

I could see Krylon working, be careful though as it goes on pretty thick.

Let the decal print dry thoroughly if inkjet, at least a day or so, before clear coating.

I find two coats of clear work.

Be aware that what you end up with is one large decal, so cut the art out carefully as close as you can.

Bill

Greg, Bill,

Thanks for the responses. I'm going to get the Testors Decal Bonder, but, I think I will at least try the Krylon since it has me intrigued. I'd like to see if it does work. 

Thanks again for the responses!

I have tried the Krylon, and it worked, but it made a really thick decal which wasn't of much use.  Also, MicroSet turned the Krylon into a gooey mess.  Luckily I was just experimenting at the time and didn't put the decal on an actual model.  These days I'm not needing any fixative for my custom decals.  I switched over to a color laser printer (mostly because it makes more sense for someone who prints as infrequently as I do...I was spending a fortune on inkjet cartridges that I usually managed to get about 10-20 pages out of before the ink dried up).  If you get decal paper that is specifically made for laser printers with one of those, it eliminates the need to use fixatives, so you end up with a nice, thin decal.  I also made sure to get a model of printer that I can get a white toner cartidge for if I ever decide to do that.  Probably won't ever do it, but I have that option.

Thanks Eagle,

Ideally, the area that this self created decals will be placed has some intricate detail, so using MicroSet/Solvaset was in the plan. 

Right now, I'm just planning on using a simple inkjet printer, not sure how much I will be customizing decals, but, if I decide to upgrade to a laser printer, which printer did you purchase that has the capability to print white? Is it an Alps?

Thanks again for your response,

I bought the HP M281fdw, which might be hard to find now since its model year was already being phased out when I bought it.  I found the list of models that white toner cartridges are made for on the ghost-white-toner site.  Those cartridges are definitely pricey, which is why I'll probably just stick with white laser decal paper for jobs where I need white.  Still wanted the capability though, so that influenced my printer decision.

It hasn't been discussed much, but just in case you're looking for an opinion on what paper to get, I'm using a brand called Sunnycopa which is specifically made for laser printers.  Compared to the MicroMark paper I have, it is definitely better.  I'm pretty sure they also make paper for inkjet printers if you ever want to look into that brand as well.  Got mine from Amazon, and my Sunnycopa laser paper required no fixative.  Tried the same test with the Micromark (I think it was inkjet paper, so that may be why), and the toner cracked and started flaking off the paper, even with careful handling.  I was reading the MicroMark instruction sheet, and it does say that either printer type will work with the inkjet paper, but that both require a fixative.  With the Sunnycopa paper, I applied it carefully to a small sheet of styrene, and then deliberately tried to rub the color off of it.  All of the color stayed put then, and stayed put with MicroSet and MicroSol applied to it after getting it in place.  No Krylon goo either.

You MUST put a clear coat on before you dip it in water.  The inks are not completely waterproof.  I have used several clearcoats as an overcoat.  I ordinarily use spray cans of testors glosscoat or dullcoat, depending on the final finish I will use.  I have used clear acrylic (seems a bit safer), or generic clear lacquer.  I have also used clear polyurethane spray cans. 

With Testors clearcoats or lacquer clearcoats you must do two coats.  First, just a fog dusting and let dry thoroughly, with a second heavier coat.

Some inks, while dry to the touch, require several days to completely harden.  You must delay the clearcoat until then.  You could experiment to find that drying time- I just wait three days to be safe.  Once the decals are overcoated, wet slid and dry, you can do finishing coats any time.

I'm not having much luck finding Testors Decal Bonder spray. Seems to be back ordered at most stores I've checked online.

But, I can use the Testors Gloss/Dullcoat for the same purpose?

And I did order the Sunnyscopa clear Inkjet paper.