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Glue and putty help

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  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Glue and putty help
Posted by DantheMan85 on Saturday, August 30, 2008 5:12 PM
I've been using Testor glue, and testors contory putty for some time.  I've heard of glue that brushs on, and drys clear, but I don't know what it's called.  I'm also looking for putty thats better than testors, it drys to fast to work with.

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Saturday, August 30, 2008 7:49 PM

It depends whether you're looking for a "thick" type glue (which has some "binder" for mechanical strength) or a thin solvent type glue which works entirely by "welding" or melting the plastic together.

I'm not sure of a glue which brushes on and dries clear. Any glue which is formulated for styrene has some extent (no matter how small) of solvent action. This usually has the effect of clouding a little.

The only application where you would want a glue to dry clear is when you're attaching clear parts - eg. canopies/windows. There are glues specifically for this purpose - eg. Testors clear parts cement, which is PVA based (like "white glue") and dries clear.

As far as putties go, anything is better than Testors Contour putty. It's really a matter of trying things out and see how they work for you. I use a number of things depending on the job at hand, usually Squadron green for larger jobs, or Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer for "spot" work.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Saturday, August 30, 2008 9:02 PM

View my comments here. I discuss both in depth.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Sunday, August 31, 2008 10:51 AM
Interesting HawkeyeHobbies, the thing is while working on my B-52's, and glueing the two halfs together, one side with glue would be fine, then as I'm working on the other side with glue, the first side would all ready start to set up.  So when I put the two halfs together, in some areas the glue had already set up.  Its good for small parts that need to set up fast, but for bigger projects to so good.

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Sunday, August 31, 2008 10:54 AM
Phil_H, I've never used Squadron before might have to try it out.  Tamiya did make a putty that I liked to use but, I can't find it in any stories around me.  The thing about Testors putty is that is drys to fast, to even work with.

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Sunday, August 31, 2008 1:10 PM

Problem with a glue and the main reason most advanced modelers do not rely on it is that it is nothing more than a substance to stick two pieces together. The two mated surfaces never touch because of the medium (glue) keeps them apart.

Solvents penetrate and weld the two parts together. Forming a connection that is solid. Whereas, the glue forms a bond with minimal penetration if any. That is why the models I build as a kid can be easily disassembled the "bond" has broken down "dried out" and the parts are easily separated. Parts "welded" with solvent is similar to welding two pieces of steel together the seam is actually in many cases stronger than the surrounding surfaces. 

Trying to apply glue to two separate surfaces then match them together is fruitless IMO because the bond and strength isn't sufficient, especially when you are building a hefty model like a B-52 in 1:72. The solvent route, is stronger and if done right can and will eliminate most of the seam issues one would have to go back and fill later.

Again as we mature as modelers and increase our skill levels, we've gotten smarter and found better techniques to solve our most serious problems. The basic principles of modeling are usually those that cause us the greatest problems in our builds...failure to do the basics correctly yields poor results in the end. It is all about the preparation or the process before the next that sets the stage for each sequencial ones success or failure. A string of errors usually results in a disasterous end.

Check your local automotive supply house for a tube of 3M Acryl-Blue...you'll be set for years to come. 

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: White Mountains, NH
Posted by jhande on Thursday, September 4, 2008 2:54 AM

 FeldMarSchall Model wrote:
I've been using Testor glue, and testors contory putty for some time.  I've heard of glue that brushs on, and drys clear, but I don't know what it's called.  I'm also looking for putty thats better than testors, it drys to fast to work with.

Hey Daniel,

Not sure which Testors glue you are using, but I have used their 3512A cement (orange tube) since the early to mid 60's when I started modeling. Yes I know the stuff stinks and people used to snort it, but it works great. I only apply the cement to one matting surface sparingly. Join the two pieces together and they weld themselves. I still have kits holding together since my early years. I use it for everything including clear parts. You have to be careful how you apply it as it does show clear lumps if you mess up.

As far as spot/filler putty goes, I use both 3M Super Red Putty and 3M Acryl-Blue Glazing Putty.


Read more about them here - 3M Body Repair Putties.

Wink [;)]

-- Jim --
"Put the pedal down & shake the ground!"

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: Long Beach, CA
Posted by pathvet9 on Tuesday, September 16, 2008 2:12 PM

Jim - I would be curious how/why you use the 2 different products; ie., Super Red AND Acrylic-Blue Glazing? What are the different application needs for filling?  Different surfaces, platic vs, styrene?

Confused [%-)]

Cheers, Jake

------------------------------------

Nuts to all but my Norfolk terrier is laughing

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