I need recommendation for some essential(?) tools

Phil_H wrote:

Hi Nophster, 1: Although sanding sticks may give you more control, I usually just use "wet and dry" papers. You can get these from a hardware store or auto parts store for a dollar or two per sheet. 400, 800, 1200 grits. Also, you can get the equivalent of "sanding sticks" from anywhere that sells cosmetics - those foam-cored fingernail buffing sticks are essentially the same thing. 2: Craft wire - if you have a "dollar store" type place handy which sells beading supplies, you can find spools of thin (eg. 0.5mm) wire with a variety of coatings (eg. "copper", red, blue, black for a couple of dollars per 50m spool. For thicknesses less than that, you can strip a length of electrical wire and use the individual wires within. 3: Scribing template - Something that gives you the basic "odd" shapes - little circles, ovals - for straight lines, you can use thick plastic tape (eg. electrical tape or Dymo embossing (labelling) tape as a guide. 4: Decal setting solutions - You can get the old "standards" Microscale Micro-Sol and Micro-Set or as an alternative, white vinegar is also said to work. Not everything we use has to come from a hobby store.

I agree with phil. Not many things in my toolkit come from a hobby shop, especially since I own one. I use the emery boards and nail polishing sticks from cosmetic stores, as for templates, I use the one with circles that you get at any office supply store.

As for wiring I buy the plant wire they sell at Walmart for making plants. It comes in a large spool. I can place 4 strands of it between to pin vises, wind it an make perfect tow cables for my 1/35th armor.

Thanks guys.

I didn't mention the tweezers or cutters because I already have some, mostly in the Tamiya brand. I have heard good things about Xuron cutters and may just get one, one of these days. 

I also get what you mean by using vinegar. I did order some SOL solution but it was more to become familiar with the solution, now I will be using vinegar and comparing the results.

This may be off-topic, but a couple of other tools I find essential...

Hobby knife and good blades

I have found that the Excel brand blades have a sharper point, and tend to stay sharp longer.  The X-acto brand work OK too, but again this is just my opinion.

Something to remove parts from sprue

I have strugged with this for a long time, using everything from a hobby knife, to wire cutters, to fingernail clippers, and just about everythnig in between.  Recently, I purchased a set of Xuron #2175 Professional Sprue Cutters, and these really are amazing.  They cut flush, and do not bend the sprue attachment gate and cause it to crack.  Saves a lot of time cleaning up those pesky sprue nubs! 

Good tweezers

These are great for picking up tiny parts, and cheap ones will bend and lose the springiness while better ones will last a LOOOONG time.

nophster wrote:

I am about to place an order online at either Sprue Brothers or Lucky Model. I need input from you guys so I can make an educated choice in brand and specs. 1. Sanding sticks - which brand, which grit(s), how many each to last me a while (4-5 kits a year?) 2. Craft wire / tubes - to add detail to landing gear, cockpit, which brand/diameter? I work only in 1/48 and 1/32 3. Scribing template - would I need one? Which one, there are so many to choose.  4. Decal Setting solution - which one? Is it necessary or is a coat of Future enough?

1: I only use the emery boards (nail files) found in the wife's side of the medicine cabinet.

2: Telephone wire, solder, wiring from trashed electronic items.  The only thing I buy in that category is Solder... Everything else is scrounged.

3: Never used one

4: White Vinegar's my choice.  You can buy brand-name stuff, like "Testor's Decal Set", "MicroSol" and "Microset" or "Walther's Solvaset", but you're paying about 40 dollars a pint in the Hobby Shop for what is essentially white vinegar (Smell it), vs .99 cents a pint for Heinz White Vinegar at the grocery store...

 Future isn't a setting solution, it's a clear acrylic gloss under/overcoat... Setting solutions actually soften the decal and allow it snuggle down tightly into recesses and around rivets, hinges, etc... The only thing Future does is what any ol' clear glosscoat does.. Provides a smooth surface to help eliminate air bubbles that cause silvering...

For sanding sticks I use Squadron. Mostly course, medium and fine. I have the three grit pollishing one I use for canopies. They come in a pack as well with one of every grit they offer. One of those packs should last you a while.Or get a couple of each grit you want.

As for wire I work around gas turbine engines so I allways have lockwire available to me in varying sizes. Rip apart any broken electronic item and grab wire out of it. You can strip the casings of the wire and use them. But I wouldn't buy wire in a hobby shop... go to the hardware store for that. You'd be surprised what you find in both hardware stores and the beauty isles/pharmacys. I go to the beauty isle for make-up sponges, some brushes and tweezers, small scissors etc.

I don't have a scribing template but I plan to get one some day.

As for decal setting solution the future will be enough to avoid silvering but if you want your decals to look painted on you need some sort of solvent. I have tried most of them and one is clearly better than the rest IMO and that would be Pollyscale. It's strong though so if the decals going on a smooth surface micro set/sol is ok. If there's a lot of rivets and detail to work the decal around out comes the pollyscale.

Hope this helps. :)

Essential tools, eh? Maybe this thread can help answer some questions: /forums/1112592/ShowPost.aspx

Hope it helps.

Wow Phil_H, you make everything sound so simple....thanks for the excellent advice. I see what you mean about the craft wire being easily available at hardware stores, I don't know if I want to take that chance with the sanding stick. Maybe its because this is going to be my maiden kit, I'm probably being paranoid but the fingernail buffing sticks, do they come in grits too? I just don't wanna mess up my very first kit just because I did not have the right tools for the job.

Say if I were to go ahead and buy a coupla sanding sticks from a hobby store, which grits would suit most purposes? I already have abrasive sheets in the 320, 400 and 600 grits. Would that be enough? Do I need any more?

The idea of sanding sticks does sound more convenient, you can cut them into sharp pointed shapes and reach the difficult bits while paper does sound like you gotta paste it on something and then use it.

Hi Nophster,

1: Although sanding sticks may give you more control, I usually just use "wet and dry" papers. You can get these from a hardware store or auto parts store for a dollar or two per sheet. 400, 800, 1200 grits. Also, you can get the equivalent of "sanding sticks" from anywhere that sells cosmetics - those foam-cored fingernail buffing sticks are essentially the same thing.

2: Craft wire - if you have a "dollar store" type place handy which sells beading supplies, you can find spools of thin (eg. 0.5mm) wire with a variety of coatings (eg. "copper", red, blue, black for a couple of dollars per 50m spool. For thicknesses less than that, you can strip a length of electrical wire and use the individual wires within.

3: Scribing template - Something that gives you the basic "odd" shapes - little circles, ovals - for straight lines, you can use thick plastic tape (eg. electrical tape or Dymo embossing (labelling) tape as a guide.

4: Decal setting solutions - You can get the old "standards" Microscale Micro-Sol and Micro-Set or as an alternative, white vinegar is also said to work.

Not everything we use has to come from a hobby store.