Beginner Problem #3

I find 10 mil styrene too thin for a scribing templete- too easy to cut into.  I have tried 20, and it is okay, but I prefer 30 mil. Acrylic is a bit tougher, harder to cut into.  20 mil acrylic makes a good template material if you caj find it.

gregbale

It's the sort of clear plastic often found tucked under the collars of new dress shirts. I guess it's the same thickness as .010 styrene.

I just cut it with a #11 knife, using a metal straight-edge for one side and one of my old drafting French curves for the other.

Cheers 

Thanks, Greg. Shouldn't be too hard to find something like that, without buying a new dress shirt. I can hardly remember the last time I wore a dress shirt...

Bob

It's the sort of clear plastic often found tucked under the collars of new dress shirts. I guess it's the same thickness as .010 styrene.

I just cut it with a #11 knife, using a metal straight-edge for one side and one of my old drafting French curves for the other.

Cheers

gregbale

After trying what seemed like dozens of other options -- including several commercial templates -- I ended up making my own. It's a roughly 6" strip of thick clear flexible acetate, straight on one side, and cut along a variable (French) curve on the other, never wider than about half an inch. 

This sounds interesting. How thick is the acetate? And how did you cut it?

 Bob

Bobstamp

Panel lines! Aaaaarrrrgggghhhhhh! 

As you might surmise, I have yet to figure out how to glue, fill seams, sinkholes, and defects with putty, and then sand and prepare models for painting without damaging or completely removing some panel lines. I agree with the view that panel lines shouldn't be too obvious, but having them at least slightly visible certainly leads to a sense of realism. So, I've tried with little success to deepen lines that are too shallow and to create entirely scribe new ones when the originals have literally turned to styrene dust.

I bought a thin metal artist's template, but the darned thing won't conform to curves worth a darn. And the first time I used an expensive scribing tool, it broke. I've tried laying down strips of Tamiya masking tape as a guide, but it's too soft and doesn't really "guide" at all. I remembered the thick Dymo labelling tape I used to use, so I bought some of that, only to discover that it's now very thin labelling tape that is little better than masking tape, at least for scribing lines.

Suggestions? Today I found this scribing template, but it seems to be pretty much like the relatively useless metal template I already have. If you can offer any tips or ideas for useful tools/supplies I would be most appreciative.

Bob

Try to find the older Dymo Tape.

Found mine in a thrift store.....cheeeeeep.

       Good results reported here:

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/185976.aspx?page=2

After trying what seemed like dozens of other options -- including several commercial templates -- I ended up making my own. It's a roughly 6" strip of thick clear flexible acetate, straight on one side, and cut along a variable (French) curve on the other, never wider than about half an inch. It lets me conform to nearly any panel line on straight or curved surfaces...and can easily be taped in place if necessary. The see-through lets me be sure a 'parallel' line, as an example, is as 'parallel' as I think it is.

These days the only 'proper ' templates I use are for shapes like fuel filler caps, small access hatches and so forth. For the scribing itself I love my Tamiya scriber...though I occasionally use needles or the back of a #11 blade tip, as the mood strikes me or the situation requires.

I have a bunch of scribing tools, but this one from UMM is the only one that works (for me, at least). I also have the SCR-01 (1st generation) and I see they now have an SCR-03 (third gen) you might consider.

As mentioned above, scribing and rescribing is more of an art than a science, and one I haven't mastered. Don't expect the tool to work like magic, because nothing does.

I'm sure the other tools mentioned would be fine in competent hands. Oh, by the way, sometimes dragging a #11 blade backwards can work to an extent.

keavdog

…and I like my micromark scriber.  I don't do lot of this though so see what others have to say like BK

Tape, photoetch scribing templates and I like my micromark scriber.  I don't do lot of this though so see what others have to say like BK

Rescribing panel lines is something that takes lots of patience and practice. You MUST start out gently tracing the line you want just enough to make the faintenst of scratches in the styrene. Then you repeat that light touch over and over until you reach a depth you want. It may take 12-15 light passes to get it to start to get anywhere near where you want it, or more. Dymo tape is an excellent guide but will not always lay as you want and you will need to let it float sometimes to get the curve you need. Again, super light touch is your friend.

I use a sharp needle to begin the scratch and then transition to a Trumpeter scribing tool. Always with super light pressure. It's easier to control when you are barely applying any pressure. If you try to dig too deep you will get off course and find yourself filling those also.

I would suggest you get an old Revel kit and make yourself rescribe the whole kit from raised panel lines to recessed. Use the existing raised lines as a guide and work slow. Once you get that down then try doing some with Dymo tape. Once you learn to control your pace and work you will be able to recreate just about anything you need when it gets sanded out.

Patience and practice is your key to whipping this skill into shape.

BK

PS, I have several templates for scribing and they are very nice when you need them, but you fill find they seldom get used and what I mentioned above is the easier method. Templates have their place, but usually shapes rather then lines.