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Need Digital Caliper info.

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  • Member since
    October 2007
Need Digital Caliper info.
Posted by White_R34 on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 6:59 PM

I just got my first DC-Digital Caliper and I need to know how to use it. See I like to show folks how I build some of the things I build bet I some time never tell them the size. So If there's any one here that has one or knows how to read it Please tell me here's the caliper. (Oh I know it's digital ans I should know how to read it but what are the two different sides for? The sheet that came with it is in Chinese!Disapprove [V] The US sheet version didn't make it through CustomsLaugh [(-D]

I'll be back soon as I need to go to hobby lobby for some paint and stuff.

Building the Impossible Is my main goal!!
  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Inland Northwest
Posted by Summit on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 7:25 PM
Do you mean the "Points" of the caliper ? If so one is for Inside measurement and the other is for Outside Measurement. If this is not what you are referring to let me know. Also a good tip on using your Caliper is to Never Push the "Jaws"  tight or store completly closed. Leave a air gap (.005" - .010" )  between when in storage.
Sean "I've reached nearly fifty years of age with my system." Weekend GB 2008
  • Member since
    October 2007
Posted by White_R34 on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 10:22 PM

Just before I got up to go I thought the big parts would be for measuring the out side but as for the small parst I thought mybe it's for the inside so I took pix ans now that your have toled me what the two sides are for I now get it. there's botton on it so you can switch from (in) to (mm) and that helps out a lot.

Now about the storage of the tool I looked in the box and the jaws are closed tight so like you said I pulled them till they fit the spung shape of the case and would you know it the shape was close to your measurement. it was 0.05in and 1.4"mm in the case. Oh I forgot why should we leave a gap in the jaws?  Thanks for the help.

Vince

Building the Impossible Is my main goal!!
  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Inland Northwest
Posted by Summit on Tuesday, March 11, 2008 10:38 PM
The Gap will keep your calibration truer as the expansion & contraction from ambient temperature will not affect it. Plus if it gets bumped or "lightly" dropped...it acts as a buffer.  But then again you most likely are not looking for Dead on Specs, just a general idea.  But remember Take Care of your Tools and They will Take Care of You !
Sean "I've reached nearly fifty years of age with my system." Weekend GB 2008
  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by tyamada on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 12:56 PM
I have something similar and don't use it very often these days.  If you don't us the caliper on a daily basis I suggest you remove the battery.  I used to leave the battery in but when I went to use it the battery was dead. 
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Wednesday, March 12, 2008 11:29 PM

The only feature of the tool we haven't discussed yet is the button labeled "zero."  If that button is pushed while the calipers are open, the dimension on the screen is reset to zero.  It's a handy feature when you're trying to measure the differences in dimensions between to objects.  Caliper the smaller one, reset to zero, then caliper the larger object.  The figure showing in the display is now the difference between the two objects.

It's also not a bad idea, at the beginning of a session, to close the calipers (gently, please) and push the "zero" button. 

Only a few years ago, electronic calipers were extreme hi-tech, very expensive gadgets.  (I paid about $50 for one.)  Nowadays they're ordinary tools, and extremely reasonably priced.  An excellent investment.

Another tool acquisition that I recommend to every scale modeler is a pocket calculator that works in feet, inches, and fractions, and converts between the English and metric systems.  I bought a Radio Shack "Decimal-Fractional Yard-Foot-Inch Calculator" about twenty years ago, for about $35, and it quickly became one of the most frequently used tools in my shop.  (My father, a retired professor of architecture, drooled over it so much that I gave him one for Christmas.)  That calculator must be built like a tank; it still works perfectly.  A few months ago, though, I found one that does everything my old Radio Shack one does and converts to and from metric at Wal-Mart for less than $10.  I bought one to keep by my drawing table, while Old Reliable lives in the workshop. 

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

  • Member since
    October 2007
Posted by White_R34 on Thursday, March 13, 2008 12:51 AM
I Must go look up the one at Wally World as I want to see it my self and mea need that type to. As for your tips they help me out a lot. Thank's alot you all. Oh my caliper cost $21.95 with S.H.
Building the Impossible Is my main goal!!
  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by SNOOPY on Thursday, March 13, 2008 6:34 PM
One other thing that comes in handy is at the back of the caliper, the sliding part can be measure to tell how deep a hole is drilled.  Also, I do not see a set screw on yours but if there is away to lock it at the measure you are taking, you would screw in the set screw and transfer the dimension to plastic by lightly scribing.  You would just lightly scribe since you do not want the dull the very tip of the caliper.  There are some other pocket reference books that would be great to have on hand to show you what a set of calipers can actually do.  A good machinst could also show you.  If you go to a machine shop I am sure one of the machinists there would be glad to show you the ins and outs.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Greenville, NC
Posted by jtilley on Friday, March 14, 2008 1:47 AM

The photos don't show the whole tool, but if it's like mine (as it may not be) it has a little knurled roller on the head (for fine adjustments) and some sort of little lever (rather than a set screw) to lock it.  Mine also has a steel shaft that comes out the end to measure depths - a very convenient function for checking the depths of holes, and such things as steps on wood moldings.  Rest the end of the scale on top of the step, and turn the knurled knob till the shaft hits the base of the step.  The display will then show the height of the step.

If it does indeed have a knurled roller on the head, it's a good idea to get into the habit of using the roller to take all measurements, rather than push the head along the scale.

Youth, talent, hard work, and enthusiasm are no match for old age and treachery.

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