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What to use as a primer.

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  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Adelaide, South Australia
What to use as a primer.
Posted by somenewguy on Saturday, May 3, 2008 10:52 AM

I hear that there are properly formulated primers. I've heard that people use matt and dull coloured paints as primers. Is either more dominant than the other?

I've seen Tamiya Mr. Surface at the LHS in a 40 ml jar. Seems like too little for using only with an airbrush. Do you brush that stuff on or something?

If you decide to prime with paint, is there anything you need to do to the paint or plastic to get it ti react as a primer, or is it as simple as painting the matt 2-3 times then painting the final colour 2-3 times?

cheers!

At the end of the day one's work may be completed but one's education never!
  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Iva Biggun on Saturday, May 3, 2008 1:51 PM

I use  Mr. Surfacer 1200 thinned with Mr. Color through my airbrush.

 It rocks!

 Just remember to wear a respirator.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, May 3, 2008 4:58 PM
I use Alclad Surface PRimer for all of priming, though have considered buying Krylon Grey Primer and decanting it as needed due to the $$$.

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: The Bluegrass State
Posted by EasyMike on Monday, May 5, 2008 7:25 AM

Depends on the scale of the kit/piece, but I use Krylon flat white or gray right out of the rattle can if the piece is large enough where the Krylon won't obscure details.  If I am concerned with details, I mix a flat gray from hobby bottle paint white and black and air brush it.

 

Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Weymouth, Dorset, UK
Posted by chris hall on Monday, May 5, 2008 2:25 PM

For most small - medium sized models, I use Humbrol enamel matt white, matt light grey, or matt black. For large- very large models, I use Halfords grey or white primer, an acrylic which comes in spray cans, and is intended primarily as an automotive primer.  

For metallic surfaces, I always polish the primer before spraying top-coats.

Cheers,

Chris. 

 

Cute and cuddly, boys, cute and cuddly!
  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 10:29 AM

When I do use a primer I use just about any light colored flat paint where it is acrylic or enamel (including my own). You don't need to apply much to detect flaws or give the color coat a surface to bind to. If you have great color variations such as from using putties as fillers, then you'll need to cover with enough "primer" to get a consistant base to avoid transparency issues with lighter colored paints.

Though I have Mr Surfacer, it is used mostly as a filler not a primer. If I can get more bang for my buck using something for more than one purpose such as a flat paint as a primer instead of purchasing something special, I save money and space. Smile [:)] 

Technique...get more from less resources. 

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Iva Biggun on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 2:52 PM
 HawkeyeHobbies wrote:
Though I have Mr Surfacer, it is used mostly as a filler not a primer. If I can get more bang for my buck using something for more than one purpose such as a flat paint as a primer instead of purchasing something special, I save money and space. Smile [:)] 

Technique...get more from less resources. 

 I hear what your sayin'. That jar of Mr. Surfacer nearly broke me and it's so huge I don't know where I'm going to keep it. At least my first quarter write down from that will be less than UBS or Deutsche Bank's. Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: The Plains of Kansas
Posted by doc-hm3 on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 5:55 PM
It's less expensive to use Dupont 30S automotive primer. A quart runs about $32.00, sounds like a lot until you add up the cost of model paint primers in equivelant proportions. It is a laquer base so you will need to use a good quality thinner also which runs about a mere $11.00 a gallon compared to $3-$5.00 per 2ounces.

All gave some and some gave all.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Tuesday, May 6, 2008 8:21 PM
Which means if the novice to such products doesn't know what they are doing will melt their model. Lacquers and plastic don't nessarily mix well, especially those that are designed for use on metals and other nonreactive materials.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    August 2007
  • From: The Plains of Kansas
Posted by doc-hm3 on Wednesday, May 7, 2008 9:02 AM
  Gerald, good point on laquers and plastic. If brush painted this is very true, but if it is applied with an airbrush this is resolved as the paint&thinner is curing/drying even as it is travelling from the brush to the models surface. I initially tried this with Floquil paints old silver and it worked great, Then an accomplished builder told me how to use auto primer and it comes out smooth as silk on the surface with no problems.

All gave some and some gave all.

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Neenah, WI
Posted by HawkeyeHobbies on Wednesday, May 7, 2008 9:25 AM

Part of the responsibility of the experienced is to teach those who are not. For those who know, it isn't a second thought, but for those who don't it could mean disaster and disappointment.

There is enough of that already when beginning in this hobby. We're here to try to avoid that so new modelers find greater self satisfaction from accomplishments. Which in turn keeps them involved and the hobby alive.

Sorry if it sounds preachy...I just get passionate sometimes. We must tailor our advice to three levels of modelers...novice, intermediate and master...of course the latter should be the ones giving the advice, though I do learn all the time from all levels. It makes me a better modeler and for that I am appreciative.

Gerald "Hawkeye" Voigt

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/

 

 

"Its not the workbench that makes the model, it is the modeler at the workbench."

  • Member since
    April 2008
Posted by Iva Biggun on Wednesday, May 7, 2008 12:03 PM

 HawkeyeHobbies wrote:
Which means if the novice to such products doesn't know what they are doing will melt their model. Lacquers and plastic don't nessarily mix well, especially those that are designed for use on metals and other nonreactive materials.

 Which is why I recommended thinning Mr. Surfacer 1200 with Mr. Color thinner because Mr. Color thinner is model plastic friendly.

 You should try some someday. Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Jefferson City, MO
Posted by sgtsauer on Monday, May 12, 2008 2:04 PM

 

I use Model Master enamel primer. I have had real good results with it. It is in the same size jars as their other hobby enamels/acrylics. It is grey in color.

  • Member since
    February 2003
Posted by Jim Barton on Monday, May 12, 2008 5:09 PM
Partly because of laziness, I just use plain ol' Model Master flat paints as a primer. I use flat white or a light flat gray if I'll be painting with a light color, or a medium gray primer for medium or darker colors. It works fine.

"Whaddya mean 'Who's flying the plane?!' Nobody's flying the plane!"

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