BEST SCRIBER?...

I have that same trouble with squadron's scriber sometimes.  I know a fella that suggested this one to me one time:

http://olfa.com/UtilityKnivesDetail.aspx?C=46&Id=58
He swears by it not just for scribing, but also when he needs to cut styrene too.

 I've don't know if I want to use this or get micromark's scriber.  And I'm sure the folks here have a lot more suggestions too.

Looks pretty heavy-duty for model work. Might be worth a shot, though.

Thanks 

yeah, that's what has made me wait on the micromark one. 

 The one I'm thinking about from olfa is the P-450 model

The best scriber is the one you are most comfortable using. Whether it be something purchased or fabricated yourself. My two favorites are made by modifiying a #11 blade or a dental tool (free from my dentist). I have a whole selection of "scribing tools" they all have their specific applications and uses.

HawkeyeHobbies wrote:

The best scriber is the one you are most comfortable using. Whether it be something purchased or fabricated yourself. My two favorites are made by modifiying a #11 blade or a dental tool (free from my dentist). I have a whole selection of "scribing tools" they all have their specific applications and uses.

Hey Gerald,

Well, that certainly clears it up!  Listen, if you're going to be a guru you must understand we want simple, clear-cut, definitive, end-of-discussion, last-word-on-the-subject answers carved in snow white marble. But, alas, I see your point.

Okay, so maybe it's not the tool so much as the technique.  I've learned to use multiple light passes vs. a heavy few, shorter sections rather than long and to go slow always.  Still, I get errant or imperfectly straight lines and/or ridges.  Another problem is even if I manage a "good" line it still doesn't look as square as a factory line but more like a ploughed furrow.  Where am I going wrong? 

Thanks for the input. 

I always have to use a straight edge. Whether it is a steel rule, Dymo Tape, template guide or just a scrap of styrene to use as a fence to score the line. In some circumstances I will draw the line on and free hand but that is a real nerve racker.

What ever you use for your straight edge, you have to ensure it stays put. Securing a flat or most flat object onto a rounded one takes a little thought and a whole lot of tape or clamps. TIP:Try to do as much of your scribiing before assembly begins. Dry fit, mark, scribe. You can do the clean up of seam areas after assembly.

For tight areas where a full width of Dymo Tape won't fit, split it into narrow strips using a steel rule as your guide.  

SLOW LIGHT PASSES are crucial in preventing errant scribing derailments. On really long lines I will break the line up into shorter segments ______        ___________      _________ then link them together in later passes ____________________________________ . This reduces the wandering scriber and it is easier (for me) to link several lines together than do one long one.

If you do go of course you can repair the error. It is time consuming but it isn't impossible. 

Sorry....missed this first time around MarkS1.

Aside from the great learning advice provided by Gerald, I found that my current (and years ago older) scribers were simply too 'pointy' for the work and would dig a trench such as you describe.

I have taken to gently blunting the tip of the scriber on a sharpening stone. It's not really blunting as much as making the angle of the tip less acute. You should use a magnifier to do this(at least I need one!)

Changing the tip angle slightly (Slightly!) helps to keep the point from digging in and lessens any ridge you might get.

But the best point is about technique and 'feel' for what you are attempting.....and using a straightedge.

HTH 

Thanks guys, will adopt your methods and see if I can't do better.  Partularly liked the recommendation to scribe before joining pieces and make up the seam after.  Never thought of that.  Funny how we get locked into the step-order of things.

Regards,

I have found it best to use a pinvise against the dymo tape first. make several passes with the pinvise and cut the initial line, the remove the tape and use my Squadron scribing tool to widen the line and clean it out.

The few times I used the scribing tool with dymo tape as my line guide the tool cut into the tape....the pinvise doesn't do that

I have always enjoyed the results I get with my Micro-Mark scriber:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60728 

MarkS1 wrote:

I've got a Bare Metal brand scriber I bought years ago.  Have never liked the results.  Hard to control and sometimes leaves a raised edge, though very sharp and super easy to do unintended damage! Also, tried Daywalker's needle-in-a-pin-vise and get the edge problem.    What's the votes on good scribers?   Thanks.

been thru a couple hundred scribes thru the years, and always seem to go back to the home mades. The best I've found so far is made from a small needle file (about 3/16" diameter, but have used the 1/8th" ones as well). Just grind a sharp point on it, and then finish it out on a sander. The rough body makes it easy to hold onto.

gary

MikeV wrote:

I have always enjoyed the results I get with my Micro-Mark scriber: http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=60728

Me too. Whenn the line is straight and flat this give great results.  Diffeenet situations need different tools.  Many time the "needle" type is the only thing that will work but it does require more clean up.  After scribing, if needed, I wil sand down any ridge.  Thn buff in the direction of the line with a Scoth Brite pad to start clean out in groove.  Thne follow it up with a very sharp toothpick back and forth in the line.

For rejoining lines on curved surfaces like the wing LE ot the fuselage spine the JLC saw can't be beat.  Does an unbelievable job.

I am using scribers used by dentists and teplates from Lionroar. The dentist stuff ibought on a fleamarket for arounnd 10 Euro ( ~ 16 dollars). A buddy from my model club asked his dentist for out of use stuff, so he got it cheaper.

greets Thomas

Thanks gang,

Took some suggestions, particulary the Dymo tape, and am doing better.   Saw a Missions Models two-part set at a hobby shop that look pretty good although a bit pricey.  Any experience out there with that?

Thanks again. 

I have the Mission Models scribing set.

It's definitely a nifty tool, but I think it requires a lot of practice to really get the benefits.  You still need to use a straight edge to keep from wandering all over the place.  Plus it uses a set screw to keep the bits in the tool and the set screw just seems too easy to strip.  They need a more secure method.  Maybe a screw with a wing nut or knob or something.  The current setup is too fragile.

-Fred

Hey Gigatron,

Thanks.  It sure looked like a nice rig but at that price I don't want complications.  Guess I soldier on with some of the others.