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What glues are you using ?

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  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Wednesday, February 17, 2016 7:49 AM

CrashTestDummy

For flat area to flat area, or smaller pieces, I've used Testors plastic cement (the one in the black 'square-ish' bottle. 

 

I absolutely HATE that stuff. There's nothing particularly wrong with the glue, but the bottle is so annoying. You have to squeeze it for 5 minutes before getting anything out if it, and that's before the glue starts blocking the nozzle and reacting with the plastic of the bottle. 

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    January 2010
Posted by CrashTestDummy on Tuesday, February 16, 2016 12:15 PM

It depends on what I pick up at the time!  Wink

Actually, for long seams, and where I can, I use my flex-i-file Touch-N-Flo applicator with the flex-i-file plasti-weld.  For flat area to flat area, or smaller pieces, I've used Testors plastic cement (the one in the black 'square-ish' bottle.  For clear parts, I use the Testors clear parts cement, or Elmer's. 

I'm also very fond of 5-minute epoxy, and use it a LOT, especially on photo-etch, or small parts.  I've also used clear enamel on flat photo-etch parts with great success. 

I've had very little luck with the super-glues.  I think our environment has too high a humidity (even in an air conditioned house) that the glues frequently set up in the bottle between uses.  And it's not because I don't cap the bottle well.  We've had unopened bottles set up.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas

 

G. Beaird,

Pearland, Texas

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Saturday, February 13, 2016 11:12 PM
thank's modelcrazy

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Saturday, February 13, 2016 10:54 PM
Thin is good for capillary action, medium works well applying parts and thick, which I don’t use except on wood RC planes, is for gap bonding.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Saturday, February 13, 2016 10:21 PM

quick question , probably been asked a 100 times , what are the different uses for thin , medium and thick ,ca glue's please .

 

  • Member since
    August 2011
  • From: Earth, for now
Posted by BashMonkey on Saturday, February 6, 2016 8:46 PM
I use primarily Zap-Gap for 75% of the time. Plastruct Weld 10% Elmer's white 10% J&B Weld epoxy 5%

 ALL OF YOUR BASE ARE BELONG TO US!

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Saturday, February 6, 2016 8:17 PM

Pretty much whats pictured, although I usually keep a bottle of thin CA on hand, at the moment I have run out.

 

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Moff on Wednesday, January 13, 2016 9:13 AM
  • Extra Thin Cement: Mr. Hobby Mr. Cement S. Someone demonstrated in an ISM review that it dried slightly faster than Tamiya's extra-thin. I got some on Ebay, and it works well enough. I haven't decided if I'll find some more Mr. Cement, or just buy some Tamiya extra-thin when this bottle is unuseable. 
  • Normal Cement: Revell Contacta Professional, Hamilkar Barkas's go-to glue...he barely ever uses extra-thin! I've been trying to get my hands on some for quite a while, and I finally have. It's currently somewhere in transit.
  • Super Glue: various thicknesses of what I assume is a generic cyano brand, "Extreme Power". I'm considering shelling out a bit of money and trying a name-brand cyano at some point. 

That's basically it. I haven't had need of epoxy or other glue types yet.

"Gaiety is the most outstanding feature of the Soviet Union." - Josef Stalin 

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Nampa, Idaho
Posted by jelliott523 on Wednesday, January 13, 2016 8:15 AM

Seems like I must be one of the odd-men out here. I primarily use Plastruct Plastic Weld and Bondene as my glues of choice. I also have a bottle of Flex-I-File Plastiweld. I occasionally use BSI medium and thin CA with accelerator. For clear parts I use Gator-Grip PVA (thick and thin) or Testors clear parts cement. I will also use regular white glue for temporary holding of parts for painting.

On the Bench:  Lots of unfinished projects!  Smile

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, January 13, 2016 3:26 AM

I primarily use Tamiya extra thin cement, but I like Gunze's Mr Cement better.  But no one brings it in here, and I can't have it mailed.  I use gap filler and thin CA only when I must.  I buy whatever CA I can get but I like the Zap brand.  I use Kristal Kleer for canopies where I cannot use the Tamiya extra thin.  I do keep a bottle of Testors liquid cement when I need time to wiggle a delicate part into position.  I also have their thicker cement in the black squeeze bottle, but rarely use it nowadays. I think it is decent stuff, but other glues can do the same or better job.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, January 12, 2016 9:18 AM

Dash8

How do you like the gel bottle Don ? works great don't

you think, the Lepage version has the same

bottle for pin point glue placement.

 

Yes, I do like that bottle- one of the reasons I like the Loctite.

BTW, the main place I use epoxy is on windows in airliners and bombers- windows that glue in from the inside.  I need a REALLY strong bond there- stronger than those white glue type canopy glues- because if a window pops inside during masking or finishing, it is a real disaster.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Tuesday, January 12, 2016 12:01 AM

I use tamiya extra thin 

And intsta-set CA..micro Krista klear for canopies ..oh and micro liquitap for temporary holds .

5 minute epoxy for landing gear (if needed ) 

That's about all .

Pete 

 

  • Member since
    December 2015
Posted by Dash8 on Monday, January 11, 2016 10:10 PM

How do you like the gel bottle Don ? works great don't

you think, the Lepage version has the same

bottle for pin point glue placement.

On the bench: Revell Euro Fighter 1/32

Ontario, CANADA

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Monday, January 11, 2016 3:05 PM

I almost exclusivly use Tamiya Extra Thin,and a little CA from my LHS

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, January 11, 2016 10:20 AM

I use Loctite CA, both gel and thin

Epoxy

White glue including canopy/window variant.

I have solvent glue on bench but very seldom use it.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2015
Posted by Dash8 on Sunday, January 10, 2016 8:53 AM

Never thought of mod podge Steve, cool

On the bench: Revell Euro Fighter 1/32

Ontario, CANADA

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Saturday, January 9, 2016 10:50 PM

 

Well Dash, let's see.
I did use Bob Smith Industries thick and thin CA's exclusively, but now I've added Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.
For canopies I use white glue or Mod Podge.
That's pretty much it.
Steve

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    December 2015
What glues are you using ?
Posted by Dash8 on Saturday, January 9, 2016 10:09 PM

I find in this hobby it is good to have

few differnet ones for what they excel in.

So far have had good luck with:

1-Lepage ultra gel CA for general work,

very good glue placement with this bottle type

2-Zap-a-Gap thin CA for large plastic halves

that have not been painted yet, this glue

runs right along the seams then just give

excess a quick wipe with a paper towel and tape

the parts together and let dry

3-Lepage Five minute epoxy

for clear parts, no fog and good

set time. Also all painted parts

are scraped off.

On the bench: Revell Euro Fighter 1/32

Ontario, CANADA

 

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