Various questions

Ok. Most of the paints appear separated in the bottles, but I haven't tried mixing them yet. I've shaken a few and they appear to want to mix. Guess I'll get out my metal stirrers and an old t-shirt and see where I'm at lol.

Yeah, I wasn't even going to try the glue. That's why I bought a new bottle. In regards to my question about the Tamiya glue, it wasn't about the thinness of the actual cement. It was about the physical size of the application brush. It's so thin, that it seems like it wouldn't be a good choice for a larger kit that may have larger, flat surfaces that need to be glued together.

I'll see what my local shops carry for putty. 

AK paint? Not familiar with that brand. I'll ask about the colors in the aircraft section. Thanks.

Another option for putty is Perfect Plastic Putty.  Is water solubable, dries fairly quickly and excess can be removed with a damp qtip even after dried.  Also sands easy.  You want something that dries harder for big gaps though

With the Tamiya extra thin you can wick it into a tight seam via capillary action.

As to paints it depends on scheme, 1 2 or tri color.  Vallejo makes a set of WWII navel colors in the model air line and I think ak does as well.  Don't know about accuracy on them yet.  Others might have more info.  Might ask in the a/c page.

Welcome back. That kit is a great place to start.

I can't imagine that the glue is any good. You can test your paints. If they look dried up or separated I would say it's not worth the trouble. I doubt any acrylic paint is good now, but the Testors enamels probably are if they haven't been opened.

But paint costs money, so check them out. In particular for detail painting.

I like Tamiya putty for finer work, and Bondo one part spot and glazing putty for general work. That can be found in most hardware stores.

Bill