Does any hobby supplier make a plastic cement with metal applicator tip anymore?

Hello!

I'd suggest you keep the bottle you like so much and refill the contents with some other liquid glue. Best thing would be lacquer thinner - you can get it really cheap and it does a good job. Look for a thinner that has "butyl acetate" or similar stuff in the contents - that stuff does a beautiful job melting plastic and one big bottle will last you for decades.

I personally use a nail lacquer bottle to hold glue, but I replaced the original cap brush with a dental microbrush and this allows for a very precise glue application.

Good luck with your builds and have a nice day

Paweł

Revell Contacta is available and has the same long needle like applicator as Model Master does. I saw it on display at my local shop and bought some and it works great. My only problem is that the tube sometimes gets clogged. I have a long thin wire for clearing clogs that came with Model Master years ago and have had to use it several times. Maybe the problem is that I don't use the liquid cement very much because I much prefer Tamiya extra thin. 

Faller makes such a cement, and you can usually find it at model railroad specialist shops. Its consistency is between liquid and tube glue. I find it perfect for major assemblies such as wings to fuselages. Comes in an orange bottle.

I've seen 17 ml 'eye dropper type' squeeze bottles at the local hobby lobby with metal dispensing tips.  Go to the artist paint & brush aisle 

You could also get needle oiler bottles and just put your favorite cement in those.  The only catch is that you would need to make sure the plastic the bottle is made of is compatible with the cement, which I think most of them would be.

I have tried the model railroader stuff mentioned by Space Ranger because I thought it would give me more control.  But, for my uses, I found it to be no easier to control than the old brush in the Tamiya cap.  Your mileage may vary, of course.

I just use Tamiya extra thin on long joints, closing the joint an inch or two at a time.  If you hold the pieces being joined so you have a tiny gap between them and tap the brush to the gap, it'll flow out from there through capillary action.  After that, you just hold that gap open for about 20 seconds while the cement melts the plastic and then press the pieces together to get a thin bead of melted plastic along the joint.  Get that technique down and you'll have very few gaps that have to be filled later.

Humbrol also does a model cement in a plastic dispenser that has a syringe type metal needle.

Thanks to all for chiming in with the many possible solutions to my (completely solvable) 'problem'... 

Hi;

 Faller and another company( They have not been in my inventory to long yet) Are the best I have found that way. The Second one is the consistency of a slightly thicker orange Bottle tamiya. It is put out by the gamers suppliers.I think it is Citadel?

Watch Crystal Cement, available from MicroMark, comes in a tube with a really fine hypodermic needle, and a cap with a very small guage wire in it, to re-plug the nozzle.

 But I only use this stuff for attaching clear parts, like canopies.  I would not use it as a general building cement, as it dries very slowly and remains slightly flexible forever.

I used Revell Contacta and found both the glue and the applicator to be very good.  However, the needle clogs up very quickly - is there a way of dissolving the dried-up glue?

Hutch6390

I used Revell Contacta and found both the glue and the applicator to be very good.  However, the needle clogs up very quickly - is there a way of dissolving the dried-up glue?

 

I just use a piece of music wire (old guitar string) of appropriate size to unclog mine. I've heard of folks using a Bic lighter to heat the tip to melt the clog, but I wouldn't advise it. Soaking the tip in lacquer thinner might work, also.

Space Ranger

I just use a piece of music wire (old guitar string) of appropriate size to unclog mine. I've heard of folks using a Bic lighter to heat the tip to melt the clog, but I wouldn't advise it. Soaking the tip in lacquer thinner might work, also.

Thanks, Space Ranger, I'll hunt around & see if I've got some suitable wire.  I don't use lacquer thinner, but I've got some "Mr Tool Cleaner", so I'll give that a go (should have thought of that myself).  I don't think I'll try the lighter, though.

So I could have wrote the same question as I still have my model master glue with ss syringe tip. I hope it lasts forever but I know it wont so im getting out ahead of it. I use Tamiya thin but i like the MM for the delay and that tip. ANYWAY, I just ordered the Faller Expert from amazon. I will report on it soon. I just started the 1/35 Academy AH1 Shark Mouth. YAY!

Aha!   

      I have been using the Faller product for some time now. Not Sorry either. Liquid, Mr Model ? and some stuff I got that was unlabeled.

I've had the same bottle of Model Master glue for the last 25 years (gives an idea of how often I build models) and love it for all the reasons stated.  For those dealing with the needle clogging, I found a simple solution that has worked without fail.  Which is good, because I lost the wire for clearing it 24 years ago. :)

When you are done glueing leave the cap off, stand up the bottle so the needle is vertical and let it stand for a few seconds.  This lets some of the excess glue drain back into the bottle.

Then gently squeeze the bottle.  A little of the glue will flow out but if you are careful only what is in the needle come out. Should really be only a couple of drops worth. Wipe it off with a paper towel or rag.  Repeat till nothing comes out and then immediately cap it.

After a little practice you can probably get it down to once to clear the needle and once to verify nothing is coming out.

I've been doing this for years and haven't had a single clog.  Hope you have the same luck with this method that I have!

I'm sure by now you have found a work around or solved you issue but I figured I'd post this for others that may be looking. 

look for the one ounce bottles with seringe tip in science chemistry supplies. Transfer your liquid cement from the testers or Tamiya bottle to the applicator bottle. 

i personally just use a pipet.