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PAGE 5--FINISHED PICS!!!--- Revell Jagdpanzer Kanone

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  • Member since
    January 2007
PAGE 5--FINISHED PICS!!!--- Revell Jagdpanzer Kanone
Posted by the doog on Sunday, September 7, 2008 7:45 PM

Hi guys!

Well, I've finished my 2nd car (go and check out my McLaren M16C/D over in "Auto's" Blush [:I]), and have a third one currently curing and waiting to be finished, but I just can't wait to get back to Armor, so I'm BAAAAAA-AAAACK!!! Big Smile [:D]

Here's the new project--the 1/35 Revell Jagdpanzer Kanone, which was Germany's last real jagdpanzer. It sportsthe same 90mm gun used in the M48 and M47 series. 370 were built before being phased out in the mid 70's due to a realization that technology had basically rendered them obsolete. The remaining hulls were converted into TOW missile carries called Jaguars.

Here's what I'm using: the Revell kit, with the correct hull and tracks from Perfect Scale Modelbau in Germany...

Here's what's in the Revell kit:

 

Here's the hull parts, cast in gray resin:

....and the tracks: these should be fun...? Sigh [sigh]

A close up of the Hull parts.

And  you can see here that the hull parts are designed to be "dropped" right in...

\

OK, I have a question---what's the best way to do these resin tracks?! I dread the process! Paint them on the sprue? I'm going to assemble them with superglue of course. But how do you guys do these kind of track lengths? I have my "Plastic indy-link" method down pat, but this is a new frontier for me, and I don't want to screw 'em up--they weren't cheap! Whistling [:-^].....

Any hints? Question [?]Smile [:)]

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by jadgpanther302 on Sunday, September 7, 2008 8:04 PM
Wow that tank looks pretty cool, my hats off to you for attempting those resin ones!
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, September 7, 2008 8:42 PM

Hey doog!!  Funny you posting this.  Just a couple of days ago I came across this Perfect Scale Modellbau resin conversion on the internet and thought it looked pretty cool, and I didn't know what a Jagdpanzer Kanone was until now!!  I'm keeping an eye on this WIP, I KNOW you'll do another bang up job on it! 

I might have a tip on the resin indies.  I read that "Gator Glue" was being successfully used to bond PE to plastic and also for tough-to-glue vinyl tracks.  Its some sort of acrylic glue, but I don't know where to get it.  Its advantage over CA is that it has a slower drying time AND has a more robust bond....maybe it will work on your resin tracks??

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Indiana U.S.A.
Posted by Panther F on Sunday, September 7, 2008 9:06 PM

While I am disappointed in the kit tracks, after seeing what the resin aftermarket offerings look like I thought the effort wouldn't be worth the gain ... especially getting them off that resin sprue!  Dead [xx(]

I'll be watching with great interest and keep us updated on how it goes.  You're the test mule doog!  Bow [bow]

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, September 7, 2008 9:40 PM

Gator Glue can be found here: http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html it's pretty good stuff for gluing PE to PE and PE to plastic, not sure how it will handle resin though. Using CA will be a challenge because it bonds near instantaneously with resin because, well, CA itself is a type of resin. Wink [;)]

I saw many careful hours ahead of you removing those links so that they aren't damaged in the process doog, but the result will be worth it. Are you sure these links aren't "clickable"? Normally resin links go that route precisely because of the problems with gluing you mention.

  • Member since
    February 2008
  • From: ladner BC Canada
Posted by stick man on Monday, September 8, 2008 12:25 AM

I can't wait to see more pics of this thing it's one sweeeet veical!

Thouse tracks look realy fun enjoy! LOL! you'll sure have a challange removing them from the trees.

Smile [:)]

I'm 15 and I model I sk8board and I drum what could be better.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: On my kitchen counter top somewhere in central North Carolina.
Posted by disastermaster on Monday, September 8, 2008 3:24 AM
 wbill76 wrote:

Gator Glue can be found here: http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html it's pretty good stuff for gluing PE to PE and PE to plastic, not sure how it will handle resin though. Using CA will be a challenge because it bonds near instantaneously with resin because, well, CA itself is a type of resin. Wink [;)]

I saw many careful hours ahead of you removing those links so that they aren't damaged in the process doog, but the result will be worth it. Are you sure these links aren't "clickable"? Normally resin links go that route precisely because of the problems with gluing you mention.

The image “http://www.gatorsmask.com/sitebuilder/images/gglogo-447x379.png” cannot be displayed, because it contains errors.

 https://i.imgur.com/LjRRaV1.png

 

 

 
  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Tulsa, OK
Posted by acmodeler01 on Monday, September 8, 2008 7:00 AM

It looks like you've got your work cut out for you on those tracks... but hopefully they'll be a significant improvement over the kit parts. For your sake, I hope they are "clickable" that would save you some headache.

I've got a question for you, Karl... I wonder why you went ahead and got the upper hull resin kit? Looking at the side by side with the kit hull, I can see that the resin part is molded right off the origianl kit part, with some changes to the hatches and a few other small details. The only part that I can't get a good look at is the mantlet, but even that looks like the kit with only a few added/changed details.
Now at the risk of sounding like a jerk (not the way I mean it), why would you go and spend the money to buy the resin if all these details can be fairly easily built on  your own out of some styrene and a little time? Honestly, I think I could probably update the kit if I had some decent research, and I don't consider myself a very good scratchbuider by any means.

Regardless, I really look forward to seeing another one of your builds (seems like it's been a while) and I hope you don't take my comment as criticism directed towards you, I am merely curious.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posted by zokissima on Monday, September 8, 2008 7:04 AM

I'm sure you could get good results with slow setting CA with these resin parts. At least I've never had any problems. But I'm itching to get my hands on some of this Gator Glue for the properties of working with PE that it has.

As for those links, they look to be a major pain. As mentioned, are you certain they cannot simply click together? If not, well, you'll have a long time worth of fun in removing them from the casting blocks without damaging them, then sanding, then assembling into runs, and then finally painting, lol Smile [:)]

Just don't try to clip them from the casting block, you'll definitely snap a few.

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Monday, September 8, 2008 7:19 AM

Doog? Doog?  I rememebr a doog around here once. (They say the same thing about me over in ACWink [;)])

Welcome home doog.  Will be watching progress on this. Do I see a resin indy track tute inmy future?Whistling [:-^]

Marc  

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Indiana U.S.A.
Posted by Panther F on Monday, September 8, 2008 8:43 AM

I saved the pictures of the resin tracks and re sized them and cannot see anything that will click on these tracks.  Normally there is a void or a dimple for the pieces to grab hold of, but they are not there.

So, hello Mr. Glue.

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Coastal Maine
Posted by dupes on Monday, September 8, 2008 9:44 AM

Oh man...good luck with those tracks. Tongue [:P]

I'm more interested to see what route you go down with the weathering. Wink [;)]

Good to have you back from those car rascals! 

  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Grand Bay, New Brunswick ,Canada
Posted by MECHTECH on Monday, September 8, 2008 9:59 AM

Hey Doog. Is this the kit you got in Germany?

If it were me, I would give the tracks the basic metal color, and black treads while on the sprues. Then after you have S.glued them together you can weather them which will also cover any extra glue spots. But then, thats what I would do, you are going to make your own decision.

Good luck with it and I am sure it will turn out like other samples of your work seen in the past.Thumbs Up [tup]

Cedric

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Kristiansund, Norway
Posted by Huxy on Monday, September 8, 2008 10:11 AM

Wow.. that's nice!

Good luck, Idool.

 

Me myself just started experimenting with oilwashes and that dot filtering.. but. meh.. :P

 

 

Good luck! Big Smile [:D]

"Every War Starts And Ends With An Invasion".

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Katy, TX
Posted by jthurston on Monday, September 8, 2008 10:20 AM

Man, I've always loved the KaJaPa. I built this kit in 1993 or so (or one that looked very much like it), back when I was building them for my AT platoon. Back then I thought sticking a Verlinden "Modern German Tank Commander" in the hatch constituted superdetail Whistling [:-^].

As for the "drop in", looks like a lot of work. I'm seeing more than its fair share of flash. But the good news is that a good pair of angle-bladed snips will slice those track links clean off the runners without much trouble - as long as you have a steady hand (no coffee).

But it does look pretty freakin' sweet. Can't wait to see how you build this beauty up. One of my favorite kits meets one of my favorite modelers.

~J

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, September 8, 2008 10:39 AM
 wing_nut wrote:

Doog? Doog?  I rememebr a doog around here once. (They say the same thing about me over in ACWink [;)])

Welcome home doog.  Will be watching progress on this. Do I see a resin indy track tute inmy future?Whistling [:-^]

LOL...since he is now doing models for box-pics, it is "Doog" with a capital D---just kidding...LOL...

You know, I was thinking the same thing about the replacment hull top; I didn't see a whole lotta difference in them, and anything that promises to be a "drop-in" usually requires a lot of filling and sanding...not that you couldn't do it of course, just wondering if there is enough of an improvement to justify the extra hours involved...I don't know a lot about this tank but id does look cool--sorta like the next generation of Jagdpanzer from WW2...In the past if I was really stoked about a particlar release, I would buy up EVERY possible AM item only to realize that most weren't impreovements at all...but then again, you probably know why the resin replacement is warranted as I know nothing about this vehicle...Anyway, looking forward to the build and once again you seem to be stretching your legs and getting outside your comfort zone as this is a "modern" tank...cool! 

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Monday, September 8, 2008 12:31 PM

Doog???? Who dat??? Oh the ex armor guy who became a car guy, who became an ex car guy, who is an armor guy. Then to top it off he was a WWII gun now an ex WWII guy, now a modern era guy.!!

OK....All I can say is:

  1. Get a dust mask
  2. Get plenty of sharp new #11 blades
  3. Get Gator Glue
  4. Get good sanding sticks
  5. If there are any voids or bubbles, get Mr. Surfacer (and use in the paint booth)
  6. Get a set of helping hands for the little parts
  7. Get a lot of patience
  8. And most of all.....Get Going

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    January 2006
Posted by Agamemnon on Monday, September 8, 2008 3:36 PM
 wbill76 wrote:
Gator Glue can be found here: http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder.html it's pretty good stuff for gluing PE to PE and PE to plastic, not sure how it will handle resin though. Using CA will be a challenge because it bonds near instantaneously with resin because, well, CA itself is a type of resin. Wink [;)]



I haven't actually had that much success with Gator Glue. The adhesion didn't impress me at all, and the stickiness wasn't anything beyond what I could get with CA. In a word, I was disappointed in the extreme.
Look at these people, these human beings; consider their potential! From the day they arrive on the planet, blinking, step into the sun, there is more to see than can ever be seen, more to do than... no, hold on. Sorry, that's The Lion King. But, the point still stands... leave them alone! -- The Tenth Doctor
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Monday, September 8, 2008 6:30 PM

Hi again guys!

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I' sorry I've been busy working on this, and in the meantime I'm also working on planning, scripting, and eventually shooting an Instructional Guitar DVD to be released next year, so I've been just busy, busy, busy! I've also got to find the time to build a Jagdtiger for a weathering tutorial in person at SYRCON this year! Yikes! A full plate fer shur! Burger [BG]

As far as the "quality" comments, I can only say that the quality of the castings may look similar, but the resin one already has proven its worth, as the hatches detail is seriously lacking on the Revell kit. There's no way to pose the hatches opened with any accuracy, and you know that I like figures with my builds. I plan on building BOTH parts, and will show you the comparison.

As to why I bothered to purchase this one, well...you know me--always thinking, always stretching my legs. I will be submitting this build story as another article to Finescale, so I had to think of some "angle" to make it stand out and catch the editors' eyes. It will be worth the tedious tracks, which DO NOT "snap" by the way! Boohoo [BH]

I don't think I'll be using the Gator Glue--I want to use CA glue; thick type, slower-setting. I willl laboriously cut and clean each link, assemble lengths and paint. Never take the easy way out for me! Propeller [8-]

This IS a somewhat-novel build for me, being "modern" and I willl also be painting it in the hard-to-duplicate "Yellow-Olive", mixing it from my own stock here. Plan on weathering techniques of pre-and-post shading, ala' the E-100 that I did a while back. This will be a one-color scheme. The weathering will also be light. I feel like a virgin on her honeymoon! LOL!

In between all I've got going here, I'll try to get a nice update up by Wednesday at the latest! 

Big Smile [:D]

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Monday, September 8, 2008 6:46 PM

doog - look forward to this build! Great looking machine actually... maybe some day I can get myself to SYRCON, in the meantime, APMS East/Danbury CT will be my armor destination, cheers!

Agamemnon - did you contact kenny/gator? maybe you got a bad bottle, stuff really works great and you can 'wipe" the excess with a moist brush. Maybe it got too cold, during storage? Only prob you have to keep the glue at room temp, it will get messed up when very cold.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: N.H.
Posted by panzerguy on Monday, September 8, 2008 7:17 PM

 

   Shock [:O]I will never curse MK tracks again.

    Your a brave man Mr Logan.

"Happiness is a belt fed weapon"

  • Member since
    November 2007
  • From: Wisconsin Rapids, WI
Posted by moose421 on Monday, September 8, 2008 7:30 PM

Look forward to your build on this vehicle.  I too have no clue about it, eccept for what you have writen.  I to have fallen for the resin kit once.  My Merkava IIID,  didn't have the resin tracks, thank god, but all the road wheels were.  The dust mask came in handy for that adventure.  I looked like I was 100.  My hair was white.  Why I bought another resin update, I don't know.  It is for the magach 7c.  But I will be watching how you handle the tracks. Also how the weathering and colors come out will be something special, I am sure.

Nice to have you back from the car scene.

 

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Indiana U.S.A.
Posted by Panther F on Monday, September 8, 2008 7:35 PM
With any serious sanding of resin parts, I have a shop vac running to draw the dust "away" from my face!  That dust is also bad for your eyes too.
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 1:59 PM

Hi guys--well, here's the first hull update. here's how the hulls join;

The kit hull joins flawleesy:

...but the Modelhaus hull leaves a small gap:

You have to clip about 2mm off of this part:

...and she'za bee-YOO-tiful! Tongue [:P]

So, here's the two hulls again, side-by-side before assembly:

And with all common parts assembled, excluding ones I'll need to complete the hull; the Revell hull has been given a coat of primer gray for sake of comparison.

The improvements of the Modelhaus hull are as follow: 

  • Better mantlet definition
  • more correct shape of mantlet--the Revell one is too bulbous and the collar around the gun mount too pronounced, as well as the MG ports looking overscale.
  • better scale fidelity on periscopes--the Revell hatches are completely unsuited for being posed open, as they are portrayed as only single-layer

Here's the mantlets:

And the hatches:

 

Here's the Modelhaus hull so far with the gun, which is the Revell piece with about 50 minutes of careful sanding and filing to clean up--man, I would have gotten a metal barrel for this kit, with the tricky job it was to get it looking repectable. Of course, there will be one released after I finish this kit!

That's it so far.... I'll be working on the lower hull next, and then those dreaded tracks! Wish me luck! Big Smile [:D]

 

  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Indiana U.S.A.
Posted by Panther F on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 3:13 PM
Thanks Karl for the side-by-side.  The mantlet tells the whole story, huh.
  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Tuesday, September 9, 2008 10:39 PM

 Panther F wrote:
Thanks Karl for the side-by-side.  The mantlet tells the whole story, huh.
Actually, Jeff, what I was most disappointed in was the lack of accuracy in the hatches. The single-layer error is a real bummer if you'd want to put in a figure set.

The mantlet is more scale-accurate than the Revell one for sure, but also looks a bit "squashed flat on top for me; I may actually sand it a little to make it more smooth in the transition curve?

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by squeakie on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 1:45 AM
 the doog wrote:

Hi again guys!

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. I' sorry I've been busy working on this, and in the meantime I'm also working on planning, scripting, and eventually shooting an Instructional Guitar DVD to be released next year, so I've been just busy, busy, busy! I've also got to find the time to build a Jagdtiger for a weathering tutorial in person at SYRCON this year! Yikes! A full plate fer shur! Burger [BG]

As far as the "quality" comments, I can only say that the quality of the castings may look similar, but the resin one already has proven its worth, as the hatches detail is seriously lacking on the Revell kit. There's no way to pose the hatches opened with any accuracy, and you know that I like figures with my builds. I plan on building BOTH parts, and will show you the comparison.

As to why I bothered to purchase this one, well...you know me--always thinking, always stretching my legs. I will be submitting this build story as another article to Finescale, so I had to think of some "angle" to make it stand out and catch the editors' eyes. It will be worth the tedious tracks, which DO NOT "snap" by the way! Boohoo [BH]

I don't think I'll be using the Gator Glue--I want to use CA glue; thick type, slower-setting. I willl laboriously cut and clean each link, assemble lengths and paint. Never take the easy way out for me! Propeller [8-]

This IS a somewhat-novel build for me, being "modern" and I willl also be painting it in the hard-to-duplicate "Yellow-Olive", mixing it from my own stock here. Plan on weathering techniques of pre-and-post shading, ala' the E-100 that I did a while back. This will be a one-color scheme. The weathering will also be light. I feel like a virgin on her honeymoon! LOL!

In between all I've got going here, I'll try to get a nice update up by Wednesday at the latest! 

Big Smile [:D]

being as this kit is based on the M47/M48 hull; why not just opt for a better set of aftermarket tracks? I know that AFV makes them, and also think that Friul does as well.

gary

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Kristiansund, Norway
Posted by Huxy on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 7:59 AM
Looks awsome, Doog..  And by the way, that gun barrel looks all done to me.. Finish painted and weatherd...  really, it does.. Big Smile [:D]

"Every War Starts And Ends With An Invasion".

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 8:30 AM
 squeakie wrote:

 

being as this kit is based on the M47/M48 hull; why not just opt for a better set of aftermarket tracks? I know that AFV makes them, and also think that Friul does as well.

gary

Well. it's not that they're bad tracks, Gary; they'll just be a bit tedious to do...but I've already spent the money on them, so I'll make the best of 'em. Besides, the vehicle itself as far as I know was NOT based on the M47/48--just the gun is the same calibre.

Do you have documentation of that claim? I'd love to have that info, if it was! As far as I know however, the tracks are an entirely independent creation from the M47/48 series.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Wednesday, September 10, 2008 8:32 AM
 Huxy wrote:
Looks awsome, Doog..  And by the way, that gun barrel looks all done to me.. Finish painted and weatherd...  really, it does.. Big Smile [:D]
Thanks, Huxy! That would be a bit too weathered for any tank, IMO, the way it looks there, but at least it looks presentable; ie, without any seams now...Big Smile [:D]
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