Very impressive indeed. I particularly like the way the texture and color of the "wood grain" finish vary according to how the light hits the model. Few observers will be able to believe this is a plastic model.
As it happens I'm working on the same kit at the moment. In my opinion it has a strong claim, in its modest way, to the title "best plastic sailing ship kit ever." The "wood grain" texture surely is among the most realistic ever. (It looks remarkably similar to the "wood grain" on the best of the old Imai kits, which were being produced at about the same time. One does wonder....) If the oars, the shields, the dubious stem and stern ornaments, and the mounting stands are left out, this kit has fewer than two dozen parts. But the people who designed it really knew what they were doing.
According to Thomas Graham's fine history of Revell, they based it on the 1893 replica vessel that stood for many years at Lincoln Park, outside Chicago. (I'm not sure what that vessel's current status is. I found a web site for it a few months ago; at that time its owners were raising money to try to restore it. I've lost track of it since.) The replica, in turn, was based on the Gokstad Ship. I've never seen the replica (or, for that matter, the real Gokstad Ship), but the kit is mighty, mighty close in all its essentials to the plans of the Gokstad Ship in The Viking Ships: Their Ancestry and Evolution, A.W. Brogger and Haaken Shetelig. (That's the only book I've found with genuine, reasonably detailed plans of the Gokstad Ship in it. It's long out of print, but used copies for reasonable prices can sometimes be found on the web.) Revell simplified a few parts (there are no nail heads in the hull planking, and all the planks run the full length of the ship - with no butt joints) and omitted a few (most conspicuously a couple of wedge-shaped finishing pieces at the extreme bow and stern), but the basic shapes are right on target - down to the number of planks on the hull and deck and the remarkably subtle curvature of the keel.
So far my biggest criticism of the kit (and it's not a really big one) concerns the way the deck is attached to the hull halves. In the real Gokstad Ship there's a gracefully shaped knee at each end of each deck beam; the knees form the supporting structure to which the hull planking above the deck is attached. Revell, probably in an effort to keep the parts count down (the kit was originally promoted as a "Quick-Build model"), molded the horizontal part of each knee integrally with the deck and the vertical part integrally with the hull half. The joint where the two come together isn't bad as such things go, but the shapes of the knees are lost. At the moment I'm trying to correct the problem by building up the knees with Milliput epoxy putty. ("Terracotta"-colored Milliput dries to a shade remarkably like the kit's brown plastic, reducing the job of making the finished paint job look uniform.) I've barely started this job, and it's a rather long one; there are a lot of those joints. I'll do another post later when I can comment on how well the idea worked - if at all.
The Brogger/Shetelig book contains photos of lots of artifacts that were found in the burial mound along with the ship. They include several wood pieces that clearly are rigging blocks (Revell includes nice reproductions of two of the most elaborate ones), but scarcely any other evidence of how the rigging worked. Six simple wood cleats (faithfully reproduced by Revell) are nailed inside the hull planking near the stern. It would make sense for two of them to take braces and two to take sheets - both almost essential in working such a rig. There is, however, no evidence of how any stays or shrouds were rigged. (The holes Revell put in the stem and stern posts are spurious. So far as I can tell, there are no holes in any of the hull timbers or planking through which a line could have been secured.)
Brogger and Shetelig suggest that the mast (which apparently was hacked off a few feet above the deck before the ship was buried) was originally about 45 feet tall, and that, given the extremely sturdy timbers in which it was stepped, it just might have been able to support itself without shrouds or stays. That strikes me as a bit of a stretch, but I have no trouble believing that the "standing rigging" was in fact set up temporarily every time the mast was raised and the sail was set. (The surviving rigging fittings include several simple wood toggles, which could have been used to secure and cast off such lines in a hurry. And there would have been no shortage of manpower to do the job. The ship carried a bare minimum of 33 men - 32 to haul on the oars and one to work the tiller.) There are two obvious places where lines could have been secured without leaving any evidence of their presence. One is the "shield rack," which Woodburner mentioned; it's a narrow plank under the main rail with dozens of holes cut in it, by means of which (it's thought) the shields were secured. It would make a good place to tie off a line anywhere along the ship's length. The other possibility, I guess, is that lines were secured to the deck beams. The "deck planks" are simple pine boards laid in rabbets on the edges of the deck beams, with no fastenings. They probably were regarded as temporary and removed frequently; it seems likely that the space underneath them was used for storage. (The removable boards also would have come in handy for bailing water out of the ship. The ingenious structure of the hull made it almost leak proof, but in any kind of seaway a fair amount of water must have come over the gunwales.) It would have been a simple matter to lift up a couple of those boards and pass a line around the beam.
Revell also faithfully reproduced the two little boards with round, dish-like depressions in them that are located in the scuppers abreast the mast. It's generally assumed that these are sockets for the "biatases," long, skinny spars that fit into some sort of grommets on the leeches of the sail to stretch the weather leech forward when the ship was working to windward. (Revell also includes the bietases themselves. Bravo.) But there are problems with that theory. (For instance - why are there two such sockets in each of the boards?) Quite a few years ago (I think; beware my notorious memory) I bumped into an article in The Mariner's Mirror that postulated another idea: that the mast was supported by a simple but rather massive a-frame structure, with its legs resting in those sockets. When I get a little farther along with the model I'm going to go over to the library and see if I can track down that article - assuming it actually exists outside my imagination.
That decal for the sail is a monstrosity. (One of the first things one learns when studying the Vikings is that the horned helmet, such as the caricature on the decal is wearing, is not part of Norse culture. Wagner operas yes; Vikings no. I wonder why Revell did such a thing. The original issue of the kit had an innocuous bird decal for the sail.) It does seem a shame, though, that Revell didn't include any crew figures. Maybe the company didn't have anybody working for it in 1977 who could make the masters for them. A Viking chieftain to the standard of Revell's 1956 Captain Bligh...that would be something to see!
The kit's scale works out to about 1/63.3. (The days of the "fit-the-box" scale were not yet over in 1977 - at least among sailing ship model manufacturers.) I found a box of nicely-sculpted (and commendably hornless) plastic Vikings made by a British firm called Emhar, labeled as being on 1/72 scale. The plastic is softer and more flexible than normal styrene, but the company calls it "Original Sta-Put Plastic - Poseable, Paintable, Can Be Glued." (We'll see.) Most of the figures in the box are shooting arrows, swinging axes, berserking, and otherwise behaving as though they're on a wargaming table rather than a ship model, but a couple of them are in more static poses. They're about 5'6" tall on the scale of the model; the chieftain who was buried in the Gokstad Ship was 5'8". Pretty close. I may put one or two of those Emhar guys on the model (or maybe on the baseboard, next to the nameplate) to give the observer some sense of the scale. It's rather hard to judge the size of the ship solely on the basis of its shape.
Too long as usual. Woodburner and Grem56 have shown us that this kit can be turned into a beautiful model. (And what a great kit it would be for newcomers to sailing ship modeling!) Mine won't reach that standard, but I'm sure having fun with it - and learning something in the process.