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1/72 B-52D with Big Belly Mod, Operation Arc Light

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  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Sunday, February 10, 2013 2:04 PM

Hi, All,

I finally got enough space cleared in my garage to test mount the wings (I used toothpicks in place of the outriggers to avoid possible damage). Either as a result of dumb luck or a gift of Providence, the droop I introduced turned out to be just right, although next time, I would make the cut just outboard of the first engine nacelle root. In any case, it doesn't look too shabby Smile.

Cheers,

Russ

 

Tags: B-52D , wings , droop

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Sunday, February 10, 2013 2:37 PM

Striker8241

Definitely hot there, Ken, and humid. Fans did help some but they usually only suceeded in moving the hot air around the room. We had a few air conditioning units on the flightline but not enough for every plane and those we did have were frequently out of service.

Russ

Yes, I remember the reason we had so many fans was so you could have one blowing directly on you in each part of the house.  And the houses were concrete block with concrete slab roofs (to withstand the typhoons).

Ken

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Sunday, February 10, 2013 2:39 PM

Striker8241

Hi, All,

I finally got enough space cleared in my garage to test mount the wings (I used toothpicks in place of the outriggers to avoid possible damage). Either as a result of dumb luck or a gift of Providence, the droop I introduced turned out to be just right, although next time, I would make the cut just outboard of the first engine nacelle root. In any case, it doesn't look too shabby Smile.

Cheers,

Russ

Not luck Russ, skill!!  Smile  Yes  Yes  Nice work, it looks like an eagle getting ready to take off!

Ken

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Sunday, February 10, 2013 7:31 PM

Thanks, Ken Big Smile  I appreciate the good words!

Russ

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Monday, February 11, 2013 8:54 AM

Here's a minor correction you may want to make. The exhaust fairings behind the engines are not shaped correctly on the model. They should taper to a sharp edge and blend with the trailing edge of the stantion, which should also be tapered at the back, as shown in the photo below. Also, the bottom of the fairing should be concave, not rounded. The ones on the model are rounded, almost oval.

This one has been corrected.

 

[ I decided to go ahead and put together the other engines but didn't like the effect of not seeing the engine exausts around the exhaust cones so I fabricated some fake exhausts. They don't look too bad I guess, but now I'm going to have to modify the display engine because its exaust nozzle is too small. Never noticed that until now. Sad Bang Head

Russ

  

]

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Monday, February 11, 2013 7:03 PM

Thank you for that piece of information Russ!  Another tid bit filed away for when I build mine!

Ken

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Monday, February 11, 2013 8:27 PM

Nothing earth-shaking, but you're certainly welcome, Ken Big Smile

Russ

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 8:39 AM

She's looking great Russ! Gee you're having to retool the engines too? Wow!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 10:26 AM

Thanks, Cliff! Big Smile  No, not retooling, bud - just correcting some minor errors. You know, in spite of the errors in this model, it's amazing just how much is accurate and fits together well. Considering the size of the kit and extent of the detailing, I think they did a good job.

You also have to take into consideration that this kit was designed during the Cold War, so access to accurate drawings and details was extremely limited due to security reasons.

Cheers,

Russ

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 12:33 PM

Ahhhh ok! I forgot this kit dates back to the Cold War, so much new stuff coming out now it's hard to forget these had a few 'guesstimates' here and there!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 7:41 PM

Hi Russ,

I thought you might like this.  I just bought this 8" x 12" picture on eBay.  I especially like the big one in the middle!

Ken 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 8:27 PM

Hi, Ken,

Cool pic! That's one mean toolbox! Big Smile.  Thanks for sharing!

Russ

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Spartanburg, SC
Posted by subfixer on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 9:21 PM

The big one in the middle is a rotary launcher for eight AGM-86 ALCM cruise missiles. They could carry twelve more missiles on the wings. Whoa!

But now they carry a total of twelve of the new, stealthy, AGM-129s uder the wings and none in the bomb bay. Here ia a pic of the newer missile:

 File:Agm-129 acm.jpg

I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, February 12, 2013 9:38 PM

Cool!  Thanks for the info, Subfixer!

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Thursday, February 14, 2013 9:53 AM

Hi, All,

While I've been working on the base, I started suffering from "modellus withdrawus" syndrome Big Smile so I did a little work on the pylons. I didn't like the way the model had the bombs attached directly to the pylons. The real bombs were attached with hanger plates called "shackles" which were then attached to the pylons. I simulated them with small pieces of sheet plastic. I'm still looking for something to simulate the attachment hardware, but for now, here they are. The spacing is a little extreme, but I think it adds drama (also, I'm too lazy to correct it Smile).

Another problem with the pylons that I tried to correct is that they were molded as one piece so they don't really emphasize the fact that they were actually four individual assemblies: the original AGM-28 Hound Dog missile pylon, a long adapter attached to that, and finally the two 6-position ejector racks that actually carried the bombs.

To make each rack more distinct, I took a sharp knife and cleaned out the plastic filling the spaces between the different racks as much as possible. Be careful to cut around the four hardware brackets that helped stabilize the ejector racks. Doing this goes a long way to making the pylons look more realistic.

Cheers,

Russ

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Thursday, February 14, 2013 7:04 PM

Bombs away!  You are getting really good with that sheet plastic Russ!

Ken

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Thursday, February 14, 2013 8:09 PM

Thanks, Ken! Big Smile 

Russ

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Friday, February 15, 2013 12:03 PM

Hi, All

I finally got the main gear doors installed. I did away with the pins that were molded into the doors as they made the doors sit too high above the wheel wells. I cut three slots in the bottom of the fuselage openings and added pins made from staples to the gear doors . This makes the doors look a lot better IMHO. BTW, if you decide to do this, you will need to shorten the door actuators.

Cheers,

Russ

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Saturday, February 16, 2013 1:46 PM

Okay Russ;

I'll bight; what's up with the plastic wrap?

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Saturday, February 16, 2013 2:29 PM

Lol Dom, that's my tarp to keep the dust out! Big Smile

Russ

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Saturday, February 16, 2013 8:04 PM

Lol Russ;

Lemme guess, you've done that trick before...Whistling

Thanks for the info on the pylons, I wouldn't mind building the

BUFF with Hound Dogs. I didn't realize an earlier version could carry those.

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Saturday, February 16, 2013 9:01 PM

No problem, Dom.  Ya, the earlier C's and D's carried Hound Dog missiles. Not sure if the F models did.

Russ

 

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Ontario, Canada
Posted by Bockscar on Sunday, February 17, 2013 8:35 PM

Hey Russ:

I haven't had a beer for many, many moons, but

I gotta tell ya, some days it just

doesn't seem to make any difference!

LOL.....must of been some kinda'

'muscle memory' from replying so many times

to Fred's ole' pal!Whistling

Thanks for info about the Hound Dogs,

Dom

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Monday, February 18, 2013 7:54 PM

Got a little more done today. I completed and installed the gunner's hatch, as shown in the pictures below. I'm also building up the wings and hope to attach them by the end of the week. Then I'll be ready to do the final painting topside.

Cheers,

Russ

Added 9/8/19 from my notes.

 

Creating the Gunner's Hatch

The gunner's compartment hatch cover is outlined on the right rear fuselage, as indicated in the first photo below. The second photo shows the hatch on the actual aircraft.

       

       

If you would like to show the hatch open - as it frequently was - follow the procedure below to cut out and detail the hatch.

1)      Using a sharp #11 Xacto blade, carefully cut out the hatch cover along the scribed outline. The plastic is 2 mm thick so cut slowly and repeatedly to avoid accidental slippage.

2)      The actual gunner's hatch cover had a thick flexible "plug" attached to it to seal the inner pressurized gunner's compartment. This plug was made up of two parts that I'll call the "cushion" and the "inner seal," as shown below.

3)      Make the bottom cushion from 3.0 mm-thick material cut to 5 mm x 6 mm.

4)      Center the cushion along the bottom edge and sides of the hatch cover. Shape the bottom surface of the cushion to match the curvature of the hatch cover.

5)      Glue the bottom cushion to the hatch cover.

6)      Make the top cushion from 2.0 mm-thick material and cut it to the dimensions of 6 mm x 6 mm.

7)      Trim the inside edge of the top cushion until it matches with the inside edge of the bottom cushion.

8)      Center the cushion along the top edge and sides of the hatch cover. Shape the bottom surface of the cushion to match the curvature of the hatch cover.

9)      Glue the top cushion to the hatch cover.

10)    Taper the surface of the bottom cushion until it is even with the surface of the top cushion at the inside edge.

11)    Make the inner seal out of two pieces of 0.5 mm thick sheet plastic.

12)    Cut the bottom piece 4 mm x 7 mm and glue it to the bottom cushion.

13)    Cut the top piece 5 mm x 7 mm and glue it to the top cushion.

14)    Round off the corners of the inner seals as shown above and fill and sand the joint between the seals. Allow the hatch assembly to dry.

15)    Apply a small fillet of super glue around the inside edge of the inner seal and around the base of the cushion.

16)    Allow the glue to dry thoroughly, then sand the filleted edges with fine sandpaper to achieve a smooth transition, as shown in the photo below.

17)    Construct two hinges from 1.5 mm thick stock cut 3 mm in length. Carve one side of each hinge in the shape of a half moon.

18)    Glue one end of each hinge to the top edge of the gunner's hatch cover spaced 3 mm apart, as shown above.

19)    When the hinges are dry, glue the hatch to the top of the hatch opening, as shown below. The exact position is not critical.

         

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Lafayette, Indiana
Posted by Son Of Medicine Man on Monday, February 18, 2013 8:45 PM

Excellent work there Russ.  That looks really nice!  Yes  Yes 

That had to be a lonely position to be in.  Was it the "G" model where they moved the gunner up to the front with everyone else?

Ken

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Monday, February 18, 2013 8:57 PM

Thanks, Ken Big Smile  Ya, I believe it was the G model. I think the primary reason was the G was build to do low-level bombing runs and the severe movement and stresses on the tail section made it dangerous to have a gunner back there. The crews didn't like the idea - they liked having eyes back there.

Russ

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 7:55 AM

Russ: She just looks better and better! Nice work there on the wing bomb racks and great idea on replacing the mounting pins on the gear doors- those things gave me fits on the A-20.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 8:39 AM

Thanks, Cliff Big Smile.

 

  • Member since
    April 2012
  • From: USA
Posted by Striker8241 on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 3:43 PM

BTW, Cliff, did you resolve the problem of not enough weight in the nose?

Russ

 

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: Middletown, OH
Posted by Buffirn on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 10:36 PM

The G's and the H's had the Gunner up front with the rest of the children.  A good Gunner was a thing of beauty when playing with fighters.  

Jim

One of the children up front.

Jim Williams

 

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