Fantastic progress Peter. It is really nice work that you are doing.

CapnMac82

Just out of curiosity, are you wiring the operator console so that it "ignores" out-of-sequence switch throws?

I realize that's a much larger task, but, given that people often twiddle knows out of sequence, that poses the question.

The simpler answer, I suppose, is that any switch throw starts the display sequence

Hello CapnMac82.

Yes that was the first obvious problem I had, and still have, to figure out. It's a major headache without using a micro-controller, which I am not versed in programming as yet. So far I am about 90% completed with the 'child-proofing'. The goal is that nothing unto shall happen if the sequence is thrown out, or any random switch throw won't cause any serious mishaps, like dropping the bridge span on the traversing boat.

Some parts of the sequencing is automatic. There are no controls for the traversing boat. So when the span reaches the top of the towers, the span motor stops, and the boat motor starts. When the boat reaches its opposite side, the boat motor stops and the span motor is enabled only. The operator must lower the bridge, and other steps to complete the sequence.

There are some minor tid bits which I have to incorporate as well. Such as someone repeatedly opening and closing the gates, or raising and lowering the span. Timers will be incorporated for certain sequences to be completed. If the time runs out, everything stops. A museum member will have to restart it again. Visitors will soon realise that the display won't accept abuse.

There will be a list of steps to follow. The Changeover Switch, in the centre of control panel, is the only switch that will start the sequence.

If this all proves to be too difficult for kids, with short attention spans (for instance), the display will soon come to a stop. The display will be very close to the front desk. Staff will know how to operate the display, and will do so under their discretions as to when it is more appropriate to do so.

It is an interactive display, and visitors ought to be encouraged to interact with it, and learn what is involved to operating a lift-span bridge.

Just out of curiosity, are you wiring the operator console so that it "ignores" out-of-sequence switch throws?

I realize that's a much larger task, but, given that people often twiddle knows out of sequence, that poses the question.

The simpler answer, I suppose, is that any switch throw starts the display sequence.

Thanks Bish.

Using low pressure airbrushing...that sounds like a great idea.

Bish

...Those swing gates, would they have come up to block the ends of the road when the bridge was open.

The gates get closed across the road when the road traffic lights have already turned red, traffic has stopped, and no pedestrians are between the two sets of gates; and deemed safe to do so by the bridge operator. After the gates have been closed, the span gets unlocked, etc.

The same in reverse. After the span is docked and locked into the bridge, the gates are opened again and traffic lights turn back to green (until all traffic is flowing and then the operator switches the traffic lights off).

Making the wiring harness. Though it is my first large harness, I was surprised that it took a few days to make.

I know it looks a bit messy, but it is practicle and nobody is going to see it anyway.

Connected the harness to the three terminal strips.

Connected a mini harness between terminal strips and the two D-Connectors at rear of console. These connect, via a cable, to the control box under the display table.

More stunning work there Peter. I really like the concrete effect on the road. I amke my own 72nd aircraft bases and use an airbrush at low pressure for spattering to give the effect of stones. But i realy like the look you have, goning to have to try that.

Those swing gates, would they have come up to block the ends of the road when the bridge was open.

Thank you Mark and T.B.

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Tanker - Builder

Hi ;

 Remember I am on the board and a modeler at the Rail-Road Museum here in town . This by it's very nature  requires change every once in a while . Wether it's the amount of traffic . The bridge being maintained or even a different boat . Believe me , folks do get bored with the same thing for over two years .

Thanks for the tip.

I will keep that in mind for other parts of the diorama which has been planned as a fixture. So, basically the drama aspect, of diorama, needs to be changeable. Good reminder T.B.

Hi ;

 Remember I am on the board and a modeler at the Rail-Road Museum here in town . This by it's very nature  requires change every once in a while . Wether it's the amount of traffic . The bridge being maintained or even a different boat . Believe me , folks do get bored with the same thing for over two years .

Hot Diggity !

 Looks like progress in Capital Letters ! ! Very neat .

Neat stuff Peter.  I really like the pendulum style throw switches.  It does look like Dr. Frankenstein's console.    Keep up the good work.

The next part of this project may not be initially of interest, for it has to do with electrics. But please bare with me, for it is still modelling, and a diorama, of a very different sort. Without this part, the main diorama will not be able to come alive (work). Much life Frankenstein's monster, without the electrical apparatus Frank-remains dead .

The console needs to be cleaned up yet still looking antiquated. Also the control panel needs to be re-assembled, and a wiring harness will need to be compiled, assembled and connected.

Gamera

Again that's some nice work! 

The roadway looks just like concrete to me. 

Thanks Gamera.

Tanker - Builder

...If you want to show use on the bridge take Rail Road Oil Black and lightly tint the center of each traffic lane with it . Then make sure to use Anthracite colors on any steel exposed to road tyre use . 

 Can you say , Looking Great ! 

Thanks T.B.

Thanks for tip too. However, I still prefer unweathered conditions on the bridge and road. Will keep in mind what you suggested for future modelling.

Again that's some nice work! 

The roadway looks just like concrete to me. 

Hi ;

 Those " Rub Pads " Were probably added as a safety thing to prevent damage to the main structure in a Bridge vs Ship incident . Oh , do you need a tow truck working that automobile Boo-Boo ?

 If you want to show use on the bridge take Rail Road Oil Black and lightly tint the center of each traffic lane with it . Then make sure to use Anthracite colors on any steel exposed to road tyre use . 

 Can you say , Looking Great ! 

modelcrazy

Great work on the road. Yeah, I don't see those guards in the original picture.

Great work on the road. Yeah, I don't see those guards in the original picture.

The road, the Pacific Highway, portion of the bridge is concrete (cement with gravel). 

Below is an old photo of the bridge, showing road surafce differences. Also when they still used the swing gates (now they have boom gates).

Tried to splatter the surface with dark grey paint. It turned out very blotchy. At first I wanted to clean it all up and start again, but my creative side decided to improvise. I dry-brushed cement grey over the dark blotches and dark grey over the lighter areas.

Then with a fine brush pixeled both shades of grey to event out the overall tone, and to look somewhat like a concrete road base. Painting the road within the span area was very difficult. It took a long time.

The road and span edges have a protective metal strips.

Then I masked the road for traffic marking. Added small bits of plastic, painted yellow, for reflectors. Then played with the 1/72 scaled cars.

Basically, the bridge part of the diorama is finished. There is still the matter of the swing gates, span hut electronics, road vehicles and figurines.

Hello Glenn. Thanks for compliment.

Thanks also for sharing an important part of your history through your signature link.

mmthrax

Making your own pulleys !!???    This is awesome.  Next level, outside the box thinking.  Bravo.  

 

Indeed! Fun to follow this wizardry.

Thank you EJ for following this build. I hope the remaining construction will not disappoint. I sure hope the working parts will do well.

Best of luck (preperation meeting opportunity) for the regionals at Grand Valley Collage.

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Built the road base from Masonite. Drilled untold number of holes for railing posts. Routed wiring from under the road, along girders and piers, towards exits through the display table.

The road, traffic lights, and towers had to be installed in one operation. Once the road base got fixed into place, the traffic lights and towers had minimal movement for alignment before being fixed into position. The cable from the pulley wheels need to be able to go through the road base and display table without rubbing on anything. 

It took a few hours to make fine adjustments, alignment (squared), and fixing the towers with doweling. Then gave the whole road another coat of paint.

Thank you Bakster and Russ for supporting comments.

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It was during this stage, just before building the road base, when I realised that the span needed alterations. Once the towers are in, the span cannot be removed passed the pulley wheels for servicing. The only alternative path of removal was sideways. So, I  decided to replaced two fixed lateral bumper rollers for two removeable versions.

I'm beyond stunned, Peter. No challenge seems to stand in your way! It's just amazing to watch this project evolve.

Cheers,

Russ

It is looking excellent, Peter. You are really going to town with this. It is fun to watch.

Thanks for the response.  I have never seen LEDs in 3/8 so I was wondering.

Excellent work.

Thank you ejhammer and mmthrax for your encouragement and interest.

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mmthrax

Hello Peter, 

Nice work as always.  It is hard to tell from the picture, but the lights look to be about 3/8" each.  Is that about right?  Really enjoying this build.  Carry on sir.

5 mm (3/16"). I was going to use the 3 mm LED, but they were hard to see if they were ON from the console. The traffic lights face away from the operator. So I chose the 5 mm, withheld adding hoods, to help them to become more noticeable.

Hello Peter, 

Nice work as always.  It is hard to tell from the picture, but the lights look to be about 3/8" each.  Is that about right?  Really enjoying this build.  Carry on sir.