Bakster

 

 

Tanker-Builder

Bury them, just like we plow the grass and shorn crop over and under for new crops.

 

 

Makes me think of the movie, Motel Hell. Alas, farmer Vic buried unsuspecting victims from the neck down, fed them well until harvest, then pulled them out of the ground with tractor and rope. Vic had a thriving sausage business and it was his secret ingredient that made his suasage something special. He gleaned with pride.

Ah, they just don't make movies like that anymore. 

 

Oh yeah I forgot- I saw 'Motel Hell' over a decade ago. I think it was on TNT's 100% Weird show. And that it was! I need to try to find it again, loved the film!

Hi Bakster!

      No, I have retired from doing Commission work. The ships I do now whatever the material, are for ME! They stared at me from the stash, and started yelling BUILD ME! In my dreams. Soooo ? I have six builds going on simultanously. 

     OH, a note on Sprue Goo! I keep at least eight bottles of it. In the basic colors.That way most times it matches the plastic I am working on. I do put down a layer of Tamiya orange Before I apply it though. This prevents ( Splinter Out) along the edges when sanding the edges. They blend perfectly.

      Every so often Put a drop of glue in there to keep it from getting to thick and make double sure the top is on as tight as you can get it.

It's time for a story.

At about the 3/4 point of the previous Century your correspondent was a resident of the fair country of Denmark, they of conservative social norms and no laws to speak of governing what you might choose to watch on film or live in a theatre. But I digress.

The fine capital city in which said occasional rowdy matriculated had two major breweries; Carlsberg and Tuborg.

Having the costumes on hand to be able to pass as a stupid American tourist, Friday nights generally kicked off with a brewery tour. Whether the several guides recognized us or not, they never let on.

Said tour of course ended in a large beer hall, er, tasting room where the hosts had thoughtfully put out little national flags of the guests.

Those islamic country flags were zeroed in on, where our heroes very thoughtfully traded the soft drinks given them as a share of the whole for the more tasty beverages that the Prophet might frown upon.

SKOL!

Bill

Gamera

That engine looks cool! I am looking forward to seeing all that lighted up. 

 

Thanks Gam, I think it looks cool too. I can't wait to see it lit up, fully painted, and slightly weathered. 

CapnMac82

Such things 'auger' well

In more ways than one. 

CapnMac82

Been thinking about the clear bits on this.  Like, maybe they'd be well served with a clear tint, possibly on the inside.  Which got me thinking about a gradient tint.  Which, with the Tamyia clears at least would want letting them dry at an angle to let the pigment settle to the downhill side.

Capn... are you a trained remote viewer? Cuz... you keep hitting on thangs I have planned. 

My plan is to install flickering LEDs into the forward lanterns. I had not thought about tinting the glass, though. The LEDs will be yellow. Tinting the glass is something to ponder on. I will also install LEDs in the aft lanterns. The lanterns are not clear but I will fashion red lenses. Also... I plan to light the interior with probably one LED, centrally located. I will see if I can locate the voltage controlled lights you are talking about. I would like to see how they look. Oh... I almost forgot. I plan to light the instrument cluster as well.

For this project I will probably wire the lights through switches so that a person can manipulate what is on and what is off.

Btw. Yesterday, I went to HL in search of ornament tops. No luck, out of season. I was not able find anything else that would remotely help with the stack. Heck with it, I will scratch build them. Probably better off because I can tailor them to the scale I want verses using something I'd have to adapt.

That engine looks cool! I am looking forward to seeing all that lighted up. 

GMorrison

Hazy IPA, Double IPA ?

Porter or double-porter more to my tastes

I like an ale with a bit of "chew" [:)

Such things 'auger' well

Been thinking about the clear bits on this.  Like, maybe they'd be well served with a clear tint, possibly on the inside.  Which got me thinking about a gradient tint.  Which, with the Tamyia clears at least would want letting them dry at an angle to let the pigment settle to the downhill side.

Which could be an intersting effect with some LED sunggled under the roof.

Oh, and since it might be apt, if you can find the LED "Edison" lamps meant for outdoor light strings--those feature a linear LED that can have some very interesting effects, based on what voltage you apply.  The lamps are like $2 each, and the bulb is a clear styrene, so easy enough to get to the inside.

GMorrison

Hazy IPA, Double IPA ?

Lol. Cheers! 

GMorrison

It seems to dry pretty hard, which lends itself well to sanding.

Agreed. 

Years and years ago there was a tv cop series, and in one episode they tried to bust an illegal card game run inside an old armored car parked behind a bar.

As soon as the cops showed up, guns popped out of the ports and there was a stand-off.

Eventually someone noticed a power cable running from the truck into the bar, to power the air conditioner in the truck.

It was a hot day...

Bill

Bakster

I add a little IPA to thin and a drop or two of Flow Improver.

I'm a convert to Stynylrez. It seems to dry pretty hard, which lends itself well to sanding.

Bill

It is always a fun moment when paint goes on well. I used Badger Stynylrez to prime. The more I uses this stuff, the more I love it. I add a little IPA to thin and a drop or two of Flow Improver. It sprays on wet and smooth. It sands well too. The one thing I hate about it is the name. I have to look up the spelling every time.

I don't think it needs sanding, but I might do it just to knock down any grain that I can't see.

I used pinstriping tape followed by VMS liquid mask on the optic nubs. For the engine portals I cut paper inserts to cover the acrylic rods, then liquid mask over them. I don't want anything sticky coming in contact with the acrylic inserts because they look just how I want them, and there no telling what that stuff might do to the clarity. And I used pinstriping tape around the brass sleeves.

Lastly. I decided against a removable roof. The more I thought about, the more I asked myself, why do it? Unless I wanted to super detail the interior, and I don't want to, then what is to look at with a removeable roof. Everything I want seen can be by looking through the large glass panels. Just an FYl on that.

Tanker-Builder

 That's definitely in that category! Add Quote to

Tanker-Builder

Oh Yeah! I have been struggling along on a Revell-Hawaiian Pilot freighter. I knew about the horizontal joints in the middle of the deckhouse ports, trying to get them smooth. I forgot about that!

I had to Google what kit you are building. That looks like a cool build.  I like it. Is this model for yourself? A client?

mustang1989

I think it's funny how much we remember after the fact as we're putting these old kits together for a second time. Kind of an, "Oh yeah....I remember this part now." moment. lol 

Exactly. I had several of them moments when I built the Seaview a few years back.

mustang1989

Those finial bases should work out good and smooth out nicely.

Indeed. One issue I had was in my aggressiveness to cut them thin. I wanted to minimize sanding, and in a few cases, they came out a bit choppy. So--I decided to coat all of them with sprue-goo. The goo filled the gaps around the plugs as well as any depressions I made. This is working well. You can see a couple of them sanded in the image below. I'll just need to apply a thin layer of Tamiya Surface Primer, the thick stuff in the bottle. Then do a final sand, and it should be good to go. 

I can't say enough about sprue-goo. It is a nice tool in my arsonel of fillers. It is great for repairing parts too. It sands and shapes just like the original plastic.

Hello;

      Oh Yeah! I have been struggling along on a Revell-Hawaiian Pilot freighter. I knew about the horizontal joints in the middle of the deckhouse ports, trying to get them smooth. I forgot about that!

       That's definitely in that category!

Coming along well and glad to see you got over the instruction sheet hurdle with part # 28. Been there and done that many times with my child hood rebuilds. Looks like you've got the top all figured out as well. Those finial bases should work out good and smooth out nicely.

I think it's funny how much we remember after the fact as we're putting these old kits together for a second time. Kind of an, "Oh yeah....I remember this part now." moment. lol 

littletimmy

Anyway, there is a package on it's way to you. Mr Haney threw in some extra parts he had.

Hey Tim, I hope you didn't mail it through the General Store. 

I will have Arnold check with Drucker daily. 

Thanks man.

PS. I hear you about the spell check. My phone is the worst.

Mmmmmm... sausage.... now I'm hungry.... or, nauseated.... I'm not sure.

Anyway, there is a package on it's way to you. Mr Haney threw in some extra parts he had.

( BTW: I hate autocorrect, I had to completely change my post because it kept changing the words to nonsence!!)

I will email you a tracking number.

It should arrive by Wednesday. Hope you can find a use for it all.... cause I DON'T want any of it back. ( I have a few hundred of some of those parts.... I will never notice them missing.)

Tanker-Builder

Bury them, just like we plow the grass and shorn crop over and under for new crops.

Makes me think of the movie, Motel Hell. Alas, farmer Vic buried unsuspecting victims from the neck down, fed them well until harvest, then pulled them out of the ground with tractor and rope. Vic had a thriving sausage business and it was his secret ingredient that made his suasage something special. He gleaned with pride.

Ah, they just don't make movies like that anymore. 

Well;

 Of Course " G " ! The idea of the dead sitting on top of the ground are grossly overated. So The Plow, or Harrow idea worked. Bury them, just like we plow the grass and shorn crop over and under for new crops. As far as the Candles they were very hard to keep lit with candles. The little urns were filled with aromatic lamp oil!

I suppose the lamps were for some sense of ceremony and gravitas. Earlier ones, or biers; had candles. According to the OED. the candles were stuck on spikes that stuck up from the vehicle and resembles a harrow, or farm implement. The word hearse was derived from the french word for harrow- herpex.

One thing that Tanks will be familiar with since he invented the things in the Victorian Age- Street car companies in big cities had Funeral cars, with all of the elegance of a horse drawn hearse.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XtG9mk32B9Y/XH4HWErBV2I/AAAAAAAFgjM/BFdb370F96sX7U6et_--qJ4pBfIwN8P9ACLcBGAs/s1600/20121210135805-3c2a2cdc.jpg

GMorrison

I use black construction paper in my structure models. That stuff is just absolutely opaque

Yeah, that should do it for sure.

Bakster

I installed and tested the LED today.  Not surprising that with no paint on the casing--it glowed big time. It will be interesting to see if light bleeds through after I primer and paint. I did not blackout the interior of the piece, so there may be some.

Bill

Gamera

She's lookin' good!!! Looking forward to seeing how she looks with everything together.

 

Thanks Gam. It should be cool when done and with what I have planned for it.  A long road in front of me, still. Should be quicker than the Icarus though! I hope.

I am enjoying the build.

She's lookin' good!!! Looking forward to seeing how she looks with everything together.

Tanker-Builder

Ah;

 Therin lies the tale. If a person was wealthy they rode in one to their final resting place. If they weren't, the Funeral Home ( Undertaker) would rent it to families so their loved one went to his or her, resting place with dignity and respect. You see, when the funeral coach went by, the ladies would lower their eyes and men would remove their hats as a show of respect as well.

     The finials were patterned after the funeral lamps from a looong time ago, that would burn for the first thirty days after a person's passing.To light their way home.

 

That is pretty interesting TB. I want one for when I pass. I want lights to guide me home too! Lol.

Thanks for sharing that. Very interesting.

Ah;

 Therin lies the tale. If a person was wealthy they rode in one to their final resting place. If they weren't, the Funeral Home ( Undertaker) would rent it to families so their loved one went to his or her, resting place with dignity and respect. You see, when the funeral coach went by, the ladies would lower their eyes and men would remove their hats as a show of respect as well.

     The finials were patterned after the funeral lamps from a looong time ago, that would burn for the first thirty days after a person's passing.To light their way home.

The power plant is in the final stage before painting. By the weekend I should be spraying it.

While that process finishes out, I started assembly of the box. It's funny how some of the questions I had as a kid crop up now. See piece O28 below. The directions don't make it clear how to install that piece. The diagram gives a rough idea but ... that is about it. I solved the problem by gluing the rear and side panels first, then fit O28 to the underside of the panels. That gets it exactly where it needs to be. As a kid I tried to estimate by the diagram and attach it to O29. That did not work out so well for me.

In an earlier post I mentioned I won't be using the finials. So, I must fill those divots. There might be a better way to do this but here is how I am doing it:

You can see that I filled one of them using plastic from the kit. I got the plastic by cutting the bottom off of the kit provided finial. I then filed it to correct thickness and glued it in place. I am imagining this will give me an overall better contour and at the same time reduce the amount of filler needed, giving a more solid piece. I will mostly need to fill the gap surrounding the finial disks.

Doing this is a fair amount of work but I think worth it. I could spend just as much time trying to contour filler and I suspect with not as good a result. At least that being the case for me. Shaping large areas of filler is not my best talent. Maybe someday. 

This piece will require a lot of work. I plan to have the cover removeable. Not sure yet what I will do to dress up the underside. It's pretty sad looking. I'd be doing myself a favor by not making it removeable. I also need to construct the stack and I am seriously considering a monitor like turret gun. (Thanks GM, great idea.) This bullion carriage needs some sort of protection from robbers. I like too the idea of a high- pressure hose to release ore from rock and gravels. On the fence about that. I am still considering an augar or something. Maybe something like a cone shaped screw.

Speaking of finials. It would be an interesting study to learn about them and the history of these funeral carriages. I recently watched a video on old mining towns of the west and there one sat, finials and all. It looked in too good a shape to be an actual relic though. I suspect it was a tourist gimmick. But --maybe there is some historic fact to it.

GM? 

Fiber optics are installed and covers glued down. A few things I can note about all this.

1. The LED is epoxied into the bottom of the oil pan, and centered as best as possible. I bent the leads at a right angle to facilate fitting.

2. The LED required a 300 ohm current limiting resister. Not having a 300 ohm, I used two 150 ohm resisters in series. I was able to fit them within the assembly.

3. I decided to route the wiring through the transmission. Going through the front would be difficult hiding wires within the front assembly. Also--the front of the assembly rests on the frame and wiring may only complicate things later. Going through the transmission seemed the lesser of two evils.

4. Once past the engine block I formed each fiber optic strand so that they rest on the brightest portion of the LED. That being the top. That gives the maximum light transference.

5. Each strand was positioned then glued at the engine heads.

6. With each strand secured I fed them through the valve covers, and then glued the covers down. 

7. I kept the strands long so I could clip them to the length I want after.

8. I decided to exit them as nubs, sort of like a light plug. I nixed the idea of running them like sparkplug wires because that made it too much like a conventional engine. That I don't want, and in the end, I don't think it would have been as visually interesting. The brightest part of the optic is at its cross section, not at it's side.

9. Once clipped, I sanded and polished the ends. 

10. I used Pledge Floor Care Finish to coat the acrylic light ports. It always amazes me how effective that is to clarify. The difference was stunning. It really made them pop and it provided a deep clarity.

11. The light ports are not secured yet. When they are secured, I will position them deeper into the block. I didn't want to position them that way for the photo because they are tight fit, and I'd risk damaging my work later. I still need them out.

12. I tested the lighting after all this, and I feel it looks pretty darn cool. I will image it for you as I get further along.

What's left? I need to fill some joins, mount the light ports, mount the front voltage converter assembly, do a final clean up, then it's into paint. 

End of update

mustang1989

Sounds like a good idea on that glowing powerplant.

 

I installed and tested the LED today.  Not surprising that with no paint on the casing--it glowed big time. It will be interesting to see if light bleeds through after I primer and paint. I did not blackout the interior of the piece, so there may be some.

Btw. The light effect coming through the portholes is as good as I imagined. Tomorrow, I will work on the fiber optics. 

So far, so good.

Sounds like a good idea on that glowing powerplant.