1/48 Monogram B-17G Flying Fortress

Thanks Scropiomickey.  Those are great. .

I tried Elmers Glue. Sure hope it works ........ I added the removed panel lines to the LH wing and smoothed out a few bad areas then primed it before I apply the rivets. The RH wing was primed, and with a litte more work, it'll be ready for paint.

Left Wing

Right Wing

Have a good week.

Had the book with this in when i was younger, started my love afair with the fort.

Also found this

Dunno how accurate they are, but it shows the tail section quite well.

On page 79, left paragraph in "Boeing B-17 Flying Fortress Owner'e Workshop Manual" by Graeme Douglas, there is a statement that, "A wooden walkway allows crew access arount the turret to the rear of the aircraft."  I have not found references to wood floors in anything else.

Back Lancair !!!!!!!!!!!!

Glad you're back at it! Can't wait for more!

I'm just lurking a bit on this build, but I have a method I do that's much faster.  It's probably more useful before you button everything up but I always leave a bit of excess fiber sticking out, just a mm or so.  then after paiting, just cut it back flush with the surface.  Since you are already done with the assembly, just use some liquid mask.  Ambroid is a bit easier to get back off afterwards.

Hope this helps.

Rich

daddy1

 

Lancair IV:

 

 

 

 I need to figure out a way to mask the fibre optic wing tip lights so I don't primer and paint on them. Any ideas?

 

 

 

How about a small dab of Elmers White glue to cover. After paint, just pop off the dry glue with the tip of a no.11 blade.  I've tried that on the ends of roll cage parts that attached to other parts of the roll cage. saved alot of scraping off paint when assembling a NASCAR chassis. Also effective on the attachment points  of gear legs , bracing , etc.

BTW Awsome work !

Howard

Lancair IV

 

 

 I need to figure out a way to mask the fibre optic wing tip lights so I don't primer and paint on them. Any ideas?

 

How about a small dab of Elmers White glue to cover. After paint, just pop off the dry glue with the tip of a no.11 blade.  I've tried that on the ends of roll cage parts that attached to other parts of the roll cage. saved alot of scraping off paint when assembling a NASCAR chassis. Also effective on the attachment points  of gear legs , bracing , etc.

BTW Awsome work !

Howard

Rob! Glad to see ya back at it! I was just reffering someone to your thread today.

Maybe try a bit of elmers glue to mask the lights. I use it on the inside of my fuselages around the window frames and anywhere else I dont want paint.

Look who's back. The B-26 has been gone for a month, I finally got the shop cleaned up, I'm not traveling anymore (for now) so it's back too work. I want to get this done so I can start a new project......... More on that later. Try and guess.....

The RH Wing rivets are complete. I need to figure out a way to mask the fibre optic wing tip lights so I don't primer and paint on them. Any ideas?

Onto the Left Wing.

echolmberg

On a side note, talk about an incredible swing in the opposite direction!  One moment everyone is bemoaning kits which are covered with hundreds of rivets and they're being sanded off.  Now we've gone to the other extreme of buying after-market rivets to put ON a model kit!  LOL!

I was thinking the same thing, guess you got to keep the after market guys going.

Looking forward to the tech manual pics!  Thanks for sharing progress........is there every a 'right' time for starting a 1/48th scale B17????  

I'd love to see the engineer drawings!  Please post or send me an e-mail!  Thanks!

Eric

PS.  Welcome to the forum!!!! 

New Guy here again, I also have the parts manual and the Boeing engineer drawings and can post them if needed.

Terry

Seeing this work in progress makes me want to jump on my two B-17s in my stash.  I know they won't turn out this well but the inspiration is great.

On a side note, talk about an incredible swing in the opposite direction!  One moment everyone is bemoaning kits which are covered with hundreds of rivets and they're being sanded off.  Now we've gone to the other extreme of buying after-market rivets to put ON a model kit!  LOL!

Eric

New guy here, I am working on a 1/1 scale B-17.  I am an A&P mechanic working on the CAF's Texas Raider in Houston.  http://www.gulfcoastwing.org/  I supervise the volunteers so that the work done on the plane is legal. 

I am at the plane at least 2 days a week, so if you need photos of some particular area or have a question just holler as I will be following this thread as the workman ship is just fantastic. 

Keep in mind that Texas Rader was produced at the end of the war and then went into the Navy as one of the original AWACS.  It then was used for mapping and the airframe has been highly modified. 

One of the questions I saw in the discussion was interior of the rudder/tail painted or was it bare aluminum.  Answer is on TR all interior was zinc chromated, don't know if this was because it was in the Navy or if this was done at the factory. 

Terry 

You have the patience of 50 ordinary men... that is amazing! I cannot wait to see that detail all painted!

I have not had a lot of time to work on the Fort.  I've been working 70+ hours a week, I had the flu the beginning of this week.  Enough excuses...  Back too work in the shop.  Still working on rivets on the engine nacels.

Cheers

LOL.  I bet you could get enough to do a 1/48 F and G, or one 1/32 kit for  $229!

krow113

Lanc- I got the Archer's for my Vis-B-17 (one day)- I calculated $100.00 worth would do it!

And thats only with 1/2 a fuselage to do!!

Lanc- I got the Archer's for my Vis-B-17 (one day)- I calculated $100.00 worth would do it!

And thats only with 1/2 a fuselage to do!!

HOLY CRAP! This just went to THAT level!!! HAHAHA!!!

Awesome job, Rob. Those Archer rivets are great ... use them myself....

Have not had time to do any work on the Fort.  I'm still spending my weekdays in Grand Rapids.  Oh well..  There is light at the end of the tunnel, and I am employed.  Life is good.....

When I started doing the flaps, I decided that I needed to make the wings look a little more realistic.  It lacked rivets.
This is what a B-17 wing really looks like.  Thousands of rivets and their not flush!

Last week I received a package from Archer Transfers.  I under estimated what I needed so I will probably have to order more.  I'll complete the first wing, then order more.

These are applied just like Decals.  No worry about silvering because I'm painting over them anyhow.

Thanks for looking

I started the Flap Pockets before I left last week.  The pockets were completed on 1/31/11

After some filling and sanding, I decided to slap some primer on the wings and see how bad they are.  WOW, do I have a lot of work to do.

Cheers

Now THAT'S what I'm talking about!!! Very nice job, Rob!!!! Did you end up using the pencil still? ... If so, try taking a strip of paper, roll it up tightly and try feathering the trailing end of the chip marks. I think blending them in just a little more will really hit it off!

Nice job though ....

Thanks for posting that bit about the props, Isch ... never knew that!

Thanks for the advice.  How does this look?

Cheers

Rob,

Very cool set up your going for. Those are some small motors for the props. Can't wait to see this one done.

I'm going to try and post the pics I took of the front and back of the B-17G "Sentimental Journy's" propeller blades.

modelchasm

Yet again, more great stuff, Rob! Nice job .... But if I may, I think that the props need a little more suttle weathering. The marks on there now just lokk like small, stiff, pencil marks. Just thought I'd share what I see....

Thanks again for the inspiration with this awesome build!

Also, in RL the backs of the blades will have more weathering damage on the back of the blades than the fronts for reasons that I don't understand.  I read that somewhere and a couple of months ago looking at the prop blades on the CAF B-17 Sentimental Journey, I saw that it was actually correct.

Thanks, Buckeye .  It's my favorite weathering job, of all the ones I've attempted.

-Fred

Great weathering on that Corsair Gigatron.

Hey Rob,

I'm assuming you're using a prismacolor pencil for the weathering on the prop.  What I do on props, instead of using the point, is use the side of the point.

Hold the point of the pencil parrallell to the leading edge of the prop blade and just kind of drag it towards the trailing edge, in the direction of airflow.  If a prop is going to wear down, the heaviest will be at the leading edge and fades towards the trailing edge.  It will hardly ever be uniform, unless there was some kind of impact damage.

My Corsair is the best picture I have on hand to show what I'm talking about

-Fred