I will!

philo426

Yeah!Thanks to the 40%off Coupon at Hobby Lobby i am planning on buying 2 Guillows Mustang kits and making them into a twin Mustang.How do you like them apples?

If you do it you must your photos here, that's friggin' awesome!!! 

Yep!

Sounds like fun!

Maybe I should break out my Spad plans. 

Yeah!Thanks to the 40%off Coupon at Hobby Lobby i am planning on buying 2 Guillows Mustang kits and making them into a twin Mustang.How do you like them apples?

I don't think it's as light as Parklyte, but should be OK.

MAN, your making me want to scratch build another RC. Stop it! I have enough stuff to do.

I have some Microlite Covering material.Better choice?

Start at 275 and go up from there, 350 is probably too hot.  Monokote is probably too heavy for that light structure, try Parklyte, or some film made for park flyers.  Takes less heat and is less likely to warp up the structure.

Yeah what temp should the iron be set for Monokote?

For Monokote and other  plastic shrink wrap film, you can touch the iron to the film and adhere the edges to the balsa or itself, just make sure it doesn't touch the inside of the film or it will melt. After the area is tacked down the rest of the film can be shrunk, either a heat gun, of by the iron itself, by running the iron over it. Some builders will install a iron sock over the iron to prevent the iron from leaving marks on the film. It is just cotton and can be substituted with an old sock, although I don't use one myself.

As far as tissue, an iron is not used and the tissue is adhered using dope or white glue, and shrunk with water.

Steve

I use a sealing iron for tacking, then a heat gun for shrinking and stretching

Hey guys,how do you use a sealing iron?I have to buy one and do you touch the iron to the coating or just hold it close?

One of the neat things about card stock and thin sheet styrene is that you can emboss rivets from the reverse side of the surface, using a ball-point pen.  Only works for non-flush rivets, but not all planes are flush riveted, and even  flush riveted planes frequently have at least some non-flush rivets.  I sometimes do the flush rivets by mixing up slightly off-color mixes of the finish colors and make marks with the tip of a toothpick dipped in the off-color paint.  For aluminum natural metal finish I do the flush rivet spots with steel color.

Sorry, I got ahead of you. You could use paper to cover the fuse,  but sanding and filling the wood would smooth it out just as well.  If you use paper, then you will still need a layer of dope or something.  That would have to be sanded as well.

The wings? I was looking at some of my RC balsa built models, and what many companies do is sheet the leading edge (top and usually bottom) to the main spare and glue a strip of balsa on top and bottom of the ribs aft of the leading edge sheeting (caps). This allows you use monokote, in my case, and it looks more like the whole wing is sheeted without adding the weight of sheeting the entire wing.

Thanks!i wonder if i should still cover it with tissue?

Yep, looks like a balsa kit. I know them well. Some sandpaper, filler and you'll have yourself a nice looking bird there philo.

Continuing the balsa plate.I will sand it down to conform to the profile.   

Yes I plan to add an electric motor .

Awesome! I build a dozen or so balsa and paper kits back in the '80s but never got one to fly very well. Guess I should have built them up as display models too!

I decided to plate the fuselage with 1/32" balsa.    

Thanks!i

Nice to see some balsa bashing. I have just started a 1/3 .balsa usa pa18 super cub. Good luck with your project.

Theuns

Getting the fuselage together.  

Thanks for the info!I plan to get a larger kit like the B-25.I like the sE5 i see that you covered the cowling area with sheet balsa.

philo426

I mentioned earlier that I often built stick'n'tissue models - here's a couple of pics. First is a Peck "Baby Ace" down for a major overhall (is CO2 freeflight and motor needs work) and a NoCal (i.e. profile) Piper clipped wing Cub. Second pic is my SE5A under construction and will be micro RC. As has been mentioned, wing loading in very important in these smaller models if they are to fly well. Guillows kits have a reputation for being 'heavy' so building in lightness is important. A couple of other comments: If you want to cover with thin balsa sheets (i.e. display model) you can use the old tried and true talcum powder mixed in dope as a filler and light sanding - works well; covering with tissue you can use the old dope method or the 50/50 whilte glue/water or the more recent glue stick method; if you plan RC, the Spektrum micro brick works well in models this size; you can find small brushed or brushless motors and lipo batteries for power that will weight less than an 049 glow; and last, there's lots of info on the web about what you're undertaking - have a look here:

http://www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.php?board=89.0

http://www.stickandtissue.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl

Have fun!!!

philo426

I wonder if thin balsa sheet can be used to plate the airframe?

Trying to fill the grain on really thin sheets is problematic.  Sanding the thin sheet is difficult.  That is why I use card stock (glossy, which has a thin layer of plastic applied) or styrene sheet.  This is for shelf/static scale- not for a flying model. If you want to fly it, you need to make many compromises.  Guillows models do not fly well anyway- too heavy.  The ones from Dumas or Easy-bilt are much better flyers, but they take some liberties with scale.

much to consider here.

When I was a kid i built them for what I think was called control line. In other words a circle with you in the middle and a handle. That was with the cox .049. Weight was not much of an issue,but it sure was fun

Not sure yet!