Hasegawa F-4E Phantom II

that is the dimension I gave you, the tail probe. It is a "one diameter probe" as opposed to the stepped dimensions I gave you before for the nose.

There are quite a few patterns for paint schemes for that version of the Phantom, there is the 34079,34102,30219 over 36622 pattern for the USAF SEA Camo (in your instructions?), there is a different camo  pattern and color set for Israel, the Flat Light Gull Gray over White of Japan, the overall ADC gray for USAF interceptors, and more modern versions for standard USAF that used to wear the Greens and Tan over Gray paint.

It all depends on what decals you have ,,,,,,,,,,if you have the boxing with all the spare pylons and weapons and the 5000th Phantom markings (kit # 1085), those Bicentennial markings for BT-245 are "SEA Camo"

If you haven't done one yet, the SEA camo is sort of fun to do, just lightly draw the pattern with a pencil,and mask and spray from lightest to darkest color. If you don't spray, you can still do a great job with a paint brush, just be careful of paint buildup at the color joints.

Rex

TarnShip

that is the dimension I gave you, the tail probe. It is a "one diameter probe" as opposed to the stepped dimensions I gave you before for the nose.

There are quite a few patterns for paint schemes for that version of the Phantom, there is the 34079,34102,30219 over 36622 pattern for the USAF SEA Camo (in your instructions?), there is a different camo  pattern and color set for Israel, the Flat Light Gull Gray over White of Japan, the overall ADC gray for USAF interceptors, and more modern versions for standard USAF that used to wear the Greens and Tan over Gray paint.

It all depends on what decals you have ,,,,,,,,,,if you have the boxing with all the spare pylons and weapons and the 5000th Phantom markings (kit # 1085), those Bicentennial markings for BT-245 are "SEA Camo"

If you haven't done one yet, the SEA camo is sort of fun to do, just lightly draw the pattern with a pencil,and mask and spray from lightest to darkest color. If you don't spray, you can still do a great job with a paint brush, just be careful of paint buildup at the color joints.

Rex

Ok, I was confused because .417 seems pretty long. I wanna say the one I broke off wasn't that long. We're talking 1:72, yes?

Got any ideas how to get a .015 step between .030 and .015 for the nose pitot? The one I did winds up being tapered.

I wanted to do a simple paint scheme since this is my 1st build in many moons, and I'm only building US aircraft. I've got my airbrush dusted off. I thought I'd try cammo, but I donno. Lemme see exactly what kit/decals I have when I get home.

I once made a step like that by accident, I was trying to taper a thin plastic rod. I stayed too long in one place, and it the sandpaper loop cut a step in the rod. I had to do it over and stay focused so I didn't get that step again.

So, you could use the edge of sanding film to create that step on purpose. Another way would be to put something 15 thou into a 30 thou O. D. tube. I will bet that none of your "audience" would see if you put that tapered piece on there and painted it up, especially in our scale. I know that for my "usual" builds, my audience doesn't know if I used 30 thou plastic, 20 thou needles, or if I have the "remove before flight" tags right side up on my Ordnance. (yes, there is a right and wrong for those, lol)

here's some stuff that may or may not be of help to you

Scott's (from MM) old build www.modelingmadness.com/.../standf4.htm

and yep, subtract .200 inch from my tail probe length, I just pulled the kit down, turned on the calipers to remeasure, and somehow they "remembered" to be at a perfect .200 as the "zeroed position",,,,,,,I have no idea how that happened. (LOL, I know guys, a "Rivet Counter" with his calipers out of Zero)

Rex

What do you make remove before flight tags out of?

I have kit 1085, yes... sea camo......typo in the instructions for the gray.

Can you recommend an online source for styrene stock and paints? Can't find any round rod styrene or 36622 enamel locally....

Sprue bros. make your RBF tags out of tamiya tape or wine bottle foil. Or u can by some bare metal foil.

I like MegaHobby, plastic is on this page www.megahobby.com/search.aspx

paints are on this one www.megahobby.com/Megahobby-plastic-model-paint-store.aspx  (I was using them a lot lately, because they were one of the places that *had* a large selection of Polly Scale)

I know of three ways to make RBFs, two "real ones" and a "cheat". The cheat is to use Reynold's Wrap (its thicker than the cheap stuff), paint it Insignia Red, and scribble on it with tiny White paint scribbles,,,,,or tiny white lettering scraps. A "real" way is to use the same foil, paint it, and decal it with real "Remove Before Flight" lettering. (starting with the R at the top, near the clip)

The other real way I just started to use is this way www.megahobby.com/removebeforeflighttagspainted172eduard.aspx other options are here www.megahobby.com/search.aspx

I cheat because I am getting older, and just inserting a wire to make a clip, drilling a hole and popping these puppies in place is going to save me a ton of time, lol. And I have a LOT of ordnance to hang on models.

Rex

all righty then.....I have the paints and rbf tags coming (no 1:48??). I'm assuming it will be easier to hang the tags off the ordinance before hanging the ordinance off the undercarriage. What size wire do u use for clips?

I built a nose pitot. I stretched out a tail pitot. I've got the mlg doors attached.

What metallic colors (what's a metalizer?) would you use for the ass end of this thing?

This thing says to paint the top half of the external fuel tank dark green. It's hanging on the centerline......shouldn't it be all white in the sea camo scheme?

Time to work on the SLUF a bit.

U got a lotta good trix. I'm learning a lot from you Rex, and everyone else around here. Thanks a lot.

Wanna do some work here but I'm not ready to prime the airframe yet. The ordinance is done. I have some RBF tags.......some photo etched from Eduard and some adhesive labels from Verlinden that wind up being double sided when you fold them in half. Can I put them on before I hang the ordinance? Any tips on what size wire to use for 1:48 and 1:72 scales? Where to attach?

Panel lines have arrived!

Anyone at all care to offer some feedback on RBF tagging this build?

Panel lines are so fine on this kit. even finer than the smallest that came in the archer kit. I think I'm just gonna shoot some primer and get on with it.

SargeUSMC,

I wouldn't worry about how fine the panel lines are.  Once the paint and weathering goes on, the difference in panel lines won't even be noticeable.

Here are a couple of pix to show you what I'm talking about.  

Here's a Monogram Phantom that I built a couple of years ago.  

This pix shows half of the replaced detail covered by a quick coat of silver to check my progress.  You can see that the difference in the thickness of panel lines and diameter of rivets isn't really obvious.

In this pic, all the detail under the silver paint is Archer's.  You can see that once it's painted, you don't really notice the difference when compared to the kit's original detail (unpainted).

In these next two pix you can see the "before and after."  The resin detail looks convincing without being obvious.

Here are  a couple more before and afters of a Hasegawa Corsair.  The originally molded detail is very fine on this kit, but you can't tell the difference between the replaced resin detail and the original detail once the paint's on.

My point?  I'd say go for it with the Archer's.

Good luck, whatever you decide!

Cheers,

-O

Guess I'll have to get the rivet kit too.

Here we are in white primer

That Phantom looks pretty sweet, by the way.

It's be nice if I could get some feedback on hanging RBF tags.....I don't have a clue.....

This'll be my 1st attempt at airbrushing a camoflage paint scheme. Am I better off painting the upper fuselage and then masking off for the undercarriage, or vice versa?

Paint the bottom, then do the top

Roger that. Thx Nate.

Does the centerline tank get painted all white on this sucker? Painting instructions do not indicate......

The tanks/pods that hang out from under the wings are green on top......

For a SEA scheme- FS 36622 for the tanks was pretty standard  

Very nice indeed!

I used the RBF tags on several builds. Photo-etched are way better than the paper offerings.

GoatPants

Very nice indeed!

I used the RBF tags on several builds. Photo-etched are way better than the paper offerings.

Perhaps you could shed some light on how/where to hang these suckers. I have a pin vise with tiny ass drills for making holes and I have tiny ass strands of wire.....

Ok, so paint the tanks cammo grey. Assuming the hardware they hang from will be white, like the ordinance racks, or should it all be grey?

Camo gray (FS36622)) is basically an off white. Pylons, TERs and MERs will also be FS 36622.

ok, TER & MER...acronyms for equipment racks?

Hey Sarge,

Yeah, TER stands for Triple Ejection Rack and MER stands for Multiple Ejection Rack.  Basically, a MER is a double TER.

Check this out:  TER vs. MER

For the record, the MERs and TERs I've seen were either white or grey.  Depending on the time frame of your build, the "older" MERs and TERs were white, while the "newer" ones are grey.

If you Google either the acronym or the full name, there are plenty of images in both colors for you to use as references.

Hopefully this helps!

Cheers,

-O

STALLED OUT....IN A FLAT SPIN........trying to recover.....ready to paint the undercarriage......just so much going on.

Ok, masking for the undercarriage spray....started at the tail, and I'm thinking that it might be better to mask and "metalize" the tail end first rather than mask the "metalized" areas and shoot the color.

Tape is the starting point to mask for color shoot. Opinions?

Guys in our last Phantom GB did it both ways with equal results. I think it's a matter of what is more convenient for you Sarge.