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plasticjunkie I used Montex vinyl masks that the edges kept lifting up. I had to continually press down on the mask to keep it down and quickly spray. Still I had several edges to clean up with a sharp wood toothpick. The Eduard masks are far better than this vinyl stuff.
I used Montex vinyl masks that the edges kept lifting up. I had to continually press down on the mask to keep it down and quickly spray. Still I had several edges to clean up with a sharp wood toothpick. The Eduard masks are far better than this vinyl stuff.
Those canopy pieces look pretty sharp PJ. I've always loved the Eduard masks because of how well they stay put, without having an aggressive adhesive. I have been using Tamiya masking sheets for the same reason (pretty much the same material as the Eduard masks). They work so much better than tape and don't harm the paint or Alclad underneath.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
Eaglecash867 plasticjunkie I used Montex vinyl masks that the edges kept lifting up. I had to continually press down on the mask to keep it down and quickly spray. Still I had several edges to clean up with a sharp wood toothpick. The Eduard masks are far better than this vinyl stuff. Those canopy pieces look pretty sharp PJ. I've always loved the Eduard masks because of how well they stay put, without having an aggressive adhesive. I have been using Tamiya masking sheets for the same reason (pretty much the same material as the Eduard masks). They work so much better than tape and don't harm the paint or Alclad underneath.
Thanks Eagle. Oh yes, forgot to mention the gummy residue left behind from the Montex crap. Eduard is the best.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Heh...I was thinking about giving Montex masks a try some time. Looks like I won't be doing that now. The masks I used for the camo on my F-16B were also vinyl masks. I made them work, but MAN what a pain vinyl is to work with. Its like trying to mask a complex shape with little blocks of wood. Next time I'll use them as stencils for cutting the shapes out of the masking sheets.
plasticjunkieHeyvare you gonna make it to Modelpalooza this Oct.?
It's a bit early this year, isn't it?
I was thinking about making an early trip down just to go, but just noticed we have a conflicting Dr appt , so I'm afraid not. Darn it.
Eaglecash867 Heh...I was thinking about giving Montex masks a try some time. Looks like I won't be doing that now. The masks I used for the camo on my F-16B were also vinyl masks. I made them work, but MAN what a pain vinyl is to work with. Its like trying to mask a complex shape with little blocks of wood. Next time I'll use them as stencils for cutting the shapes out of the masking sheets.
Greg plasticjunkie Heyvare you gonna make it to Modelpalooza this Oct.? It's a bit early this year, isn't it? I was thinking about making an early trip down just to go, but just noticed we have a conflicting Dr appt , so I'm afraid not. Darn it.
plasticjunkie Heyvare you gonna make it to Modelpalooza this Oct.?
Yes it’s a bit earlier this year. Sorry you can’t make it this time.
A little more progress done on the Myrt, more weathering yet to come.
Chipping done using a combo of hairspray, sharp blade and masking tape.
The prop got some chipping on the leading airfoil edge of the blades.
The Tamiya decals went on without a problem but are very thick. Solvaset came thru as usual, melting down the decal film to make them look as if they were painted.
The Myrt is completed. I didn’t like the thick toy like loop antenna in the pit so I made one from thin wire. Unfortunately it’s hard to see thru all the greenhouse partitions of the canopies. I also added a PE sight for the rear MG. The chipping was done differently this time using hairspray but no water to attack the hairspray layer under the green. I sprayed the entire plane with Floquil Old Silver and when dry, decanted some hairspray and shot it thru my AB. The Tamiya Imperial Japanese Green was sprayed on and set aside to dry. I then used the tip of a #11 blade to create the chips along with using masking tape to pull up and clean up the chip edges. Flory Washes popped all recessed details. The cowling color is Tamiya Nato Black with some blue added. Artists oils were used for streaks.
That's a dandy fine job you made of it, Ernie. Really nice finish and added details, the work paid off. That fuselage is so long, it looks like it has enough tail for a 737.
Thanks for the post and photos, always good to see your latest project.
Patrick
Thanks Patrick. The long fuselage v shape looks very cool.
W - O - W! Great build PJ!
Jim
Stay Safe.
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
fox W - O - W! Great build PJ! Jim Stay Safe.
Thanks Jim.
Lovely finish, really like the chipping effect I'm taking notes.
Great job!it really is a nice kit!
Did you do the anticoate?
Thanks Est and Eugene.
What is an anticoate?
Splendid work, PJ! Good job on the chipping.
Anticoate? Perhaps "undercoat"? Or perhaps the aotake?
Gary
Anti corrosion coating inside of the wheel wells .Characterized by it's transparent blue appearance best simulated by first painting the wells silver followed by clear blue
Eugene Rowe Anti corrosion coating inside of the wheel wells .Characterized by it's transparent blue appearance best simulated by first painting the wells silver followed by clear blue
Its called Aotake. Depending on the colors at hand it ranged from green to blue. Some late war aircraft didn't have the Aotake or even primer as shortages were getting worse.
Thanks Gary.
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