1,000 Roadwheels - 2009

Looking good Boyd! I really like the fender spring....nice touch. Gotta love those RB barrels!

Nate

Nachtflieger wrote:

Looking good Boyd! I really like the fender spring....nice touch. Gotta love those RB barrels! Nate

Thanks dupes, thanks Nate

Yup, those RB barrels are pretty darn nice....

Hi all,

Update on the Tamiya StuG, she's about ready for paint, at long last. Since my last report I've added a number of small parts, including a wire grabhandle on the driver's hatch (not exactly symmetrical, I'm afraid...) and mounted the standoff armor brackets. To do this I filed into the resin zimmerit so the plastic parts would seat back below the surface, creating the impression that the zim had been applied around them. I've dealt with the pin marks on the hatch halves, and have cut the schutrzen section I need.

The schurtzen... Hmmm. I've always meant this build to reproduce as closely as possible the StuG IV in the May 1991 FSM, and in that article the two main plates alongside the fighting compartment had been cut from the remainder of the parts, but themselves left conjoined. That's not strictly accurate, they should be individual sections, separately hung. I'm seriously considering separating them for a slightly different angle on their mounts, which would look more realistic. To be really accurate they should be photoetched. The thickness of the plastic would be around an inch in scale, and these plates were only a fifth of that; in preparation I sanded them down with a wet circling action on rough then fine sandpaper, to bring them down somewhat thinner, but I'd be sanding all week to get them accurately thin. But PE and I do not get along well yet!

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Next comes masking the axles and locators for the return rollers, plus the locator holes for all the external tools. I'll paint the hatch ineriors along with the MG shield, the skirts and hangers, then mount the hatch temporarily in the closed position while I do the overall paintjob. For the wheels I'm considering assembling them, spraying them dark yellow and doing the finepoint marker trick to establish the tires against the rims, then brush paint the tires in enamel. I'll do an experiment and see how much work is involved in this as opposed to spraying everything black then doing the hubs with the template method (which, as the template is never the same size as the rims, always involves a brushed touchup anyway).

I sprayed a little dark yellow over some of the resin to see what it would look like and this revealed a flaw or two in the zim application which I'll try to improve before I apply the camo.

Cheers, thanks for looking and feedback is always welcome.

Mike/TB379

PS: The Tamiya Brumbar might just make it in time for this GB!

Hi Mike,

That is coming along VERY nicely! About the only suggestion that I can think of to make would be to fill the ejector pin marks in the spare wheel holder. Unless, of course, you plan on installing the spare roadwheels which would probably cover them up anyway. Nice job!

Nate

Thanks Nate! Yes, the spare wheels will be in the rack and they'll obscure the ejector marks -- I'm all for minimising the work involved wherever possible! It'll be good to have this kit done, it was part of a small batch I bought second hand from a dealer in Japan nearly ten years ago. There's not a word of English in the plans, but the diagrams are self explanatory! It's a nice kit and I'll definitely do another, one without zim and in a three-tone ambush scheme with kill rings round the barrel. Academy released the same molds in that scheme and for all it's age I think it makes a very attractive model.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

("I'm all for minimising the work involved wherever possible!")

Amen to that!!!!!!

Nate

The Brummbar too? Niiiiiice!

Refresh my memory on your zim...is that home-brew, or AM?

Looks really sharp. This was the first tank kit I got back into modeling with - holds a place near and dear to my heart!

Hi Dupes -- yep, the Brumbar if at all possible, and I have Tamiya's early Ausf. H (35029 IIRC) in Academy issue, ready to go if Lucky Model can come up with the Echelon sheets I ordered. I have PE turret skirts for that one too, which will be quite the experiment for me. I'll try to find a quicker method of painting the wheels, I have a technique in mind, I'll give it a shot on the current build, and if it works I'll be able to production-line through the 144 wheels the other two will call for (times that by both sides of each wheel to get a nice, sharp color demarkation and that's a big job, as all the multiple builders here already know!)

The zim is Cavalier's generic standard pattern sheet, each panel cut and mounted individually, a surprisingly quick process and, because you're not working with preformed single pieces, it feels 'safer' -- if you screw up a piece it's no disaster, just cut another.

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Alas, here is the major construction of a Stug IV from this weekend:

I haven't glued the top hull to the lower yet, hence the gap between the two.  I was saving that for after the painting.  Next up, a coat of Dunkelgelb and all those roadwheels... 

WOW!!  There's some great stuff going on here and I'm missing all the fun!!  I'll post a separate response to all the fine work that's been posted recently!  Right now I just want to get back in the game! 

I've been away finishing up other GBs and taking care of non-modeling stuff, but I did start working on the resin Coree Ausf.A a couple of weeks ago and have been taking photos of the WIP.  Since this is a full resin kit I decided to be a little more detailed with the WIP post...hope you don't mind.

I posted this photo of the kit box back in Dec of 08...wow, almost 1 year ago!

If you want to see more of the resin kit parts go to page 16 of this thread near the bottom

/forums/16/1036814/ShowPost.aspx#1036814

The kit has a full set of resin tracks but they have the taller hollow guide horns whereas the Ausf. As used the original shorter guide horns.  Fortunately I have a set of ModelKasten SK-57 tracks which has both types of guide horns.  However, MKs can take a while to assemble, so if time becomes an issue I also have a set of appropriate 36cm Dragon Magic Tracks that could also work!  The Caliber 35 pioneer tools and Voyager barrel cleaning rods might be used if the resin parts give me problems.

Resin parts usually have the pour plugs attached and the best way to remove them is with saws.  I have several different types in the tool drawer.  My favorite is the JLC Razor Saw (top of the photo with the wooden handle), but all of these will probably be put to use at some point.

Can't use plastic glues with resin so here's an assortment of CA glues and epoxy.  I'm sure each will be used at some stage of the build.

I've always had a tough time applying CA glue, especially to small parts, so I'm going to try some little glue applicator tips that I bought recently.  I hope they prove worth the $$.

If the applicator tips are a bust then I can still resort to this little tool that is handy for applying the ultra-thin CA to seams and such.  Its simply a sewing needle with the end of the eye filed off and put in a pin vise.  This works great for getting the tiniest drop in tight places.  The only problem is the needle quickly gets clogged with hardened CA which has to be scraped off quite often.  BTW....I decided if one needle applicator is good, several are even better!!  To save $$ I figured a cheap wooden dowel serves just as well as a pin vise. 

I know I sucked up a lot of bandwidth with this post so tomorrow I'll post the actual build photos.  Be warned...working on this resin kit turned out to be more than I bargained for!  For now I'll just say this:  2 weeks of work and not one resin part glued yet! 

Ernest - didn't think I'd see this guy ever again. Excited!

That quite the lineup of AM and tools you have there...wow. Interested in some feedback on those MM "Precision Gluing Tips", as well as the cutoff wheels you have there for your Dremel (perhaps you've already used those to good effect?).

Trying to find a way to squeeeeeeze another IV-chassis build in before the end of December myself - I KNOW I can come up with something!

Ok,, guys.. all stuff looking very cool.. !

My Ausf H is coming along, decals were applied last night , and detailing,weathering is gaining..

Pics soon I hope..!

Buf -- that's one impressive lineup of tools and supplies! Can't wait to see the resin!

Guys, I have a technical question concerning Wermacht armor jacks. The two recent armor projects I did both suggested the jack should be unpainted, so represented as a weathered/rusted metal, but I've seen modellers represent the jack in the base color of the vehicle too. With the Pz. IV the jack is on the right side so it doesn't show in color profiles, and B&W pics are, well, B&W!

So what's the scoop? What are your prefered approaches on this?

Cheers, Mike/TB379

dupes - yeah, I kind of wondered if I would have time to get to this, but the resin kept calling to me!!.  As for the tools, I've actually used the precision tips before.  I had one left and I used it for CA and it worked GREAT. The small tip allowed a very small drop of ultra thin CA to be placed exactly where I wanted it. but I stoopidly let it dry and it clogged the tube...no way to clear it out.  I wanted to try it again so I just have to figure out a way to keep the CA from drying in the tube.  I'll also try the nylon ones and hope they don't clog quickly.

tbolt - I hear you on the jacks!  I think that the jack mfgrs coated them in a rustproof heavy duty black paint (just like today!), but the painters in the tank factories usually just painted over them with the base paint.  Most of the photos I have show the jacks the same color as the tank, but there are a few where the jacks are noticably darker, but with light patches (dust, dirt, worn paint??).  Hope this helps!

Yesterday I mentioned that work on this resin kit isn't going that well. At first I thought assembling the kit was going to be a breeze, once all the casting plugs were removed and the parts cleaned up (a major hurdle by itself!)  The parts seemed exceptionally well detailed and the assembly well thought out.

As with any kit, I like to dry fit all the major parts before gluing anything to see if they all fit properly.  The upper and lower hulls fit together nicely!  They are very solid and square and there was no warping or blemishes anywhere!   

However, after removing the casting plugs from the other hull panels I found some serious fit problems :

The glacis plate and upper and lower rear plates had a horrible fit to the hull.  As you can see in the photos the plates are short on all four sides leaving huge gaps.  The lower rear plate was also warped with a definite bow, but the warpage probably could be corrected with careul application of heat.  Unfortunately, there was no way to correct the width dimensions since all the parts are molded on!! At first I thought that there was a scale problem, wondering if maybe the hull was 1/32 scale but the panels 1/35...???  So I pulled out from the stash the Tristar Pz. IV D and the Dragon Ausf. C and checked their dimensions.  Turns out the resin hull is spot on which means that the panels are incorrect.  I couldn't believe that they could be miscast, but then I recalled that resin does have a tendency to shrink...I just didn't know it could shrink that much!  The only theory I have is that the kit was cast several years ago (anyone know when Coree went out of business?) and that the panels were cast with a different resin or batch then the hull and that time took its toll.  Whatever was the cause I had a major problem to overcome! 

After some time I decided that the best option was to completely scratchbuild the rear panels using the only the idler housings from the original resin part.  In this photo most of the lower panel has been rebuilt except for the idler housings.  Rivets came from a Caliber35 rivet set and the hex bolts are from Grandt Line.  The upper rear plate has not been detailed yet.

For the glacis I was fortunate that the Dragon Ausf C had an extra glacis plate, but not a transmission hatch or brake hatches.  The transmission hatch I cut from an extra Dragon Ausf E glacis, but the brake hatches I have to build from scratch.

The photo below shows some of the work done.  The hatch on the bottom right is from the Dragon Ausf C kit that I'm using as a master for the replacements.  I still need to make another brake hatch and detail both of them with weld beads and PE hatch locks.  As soon as I finish the glacis parts I can start gluing parts onto the lower hull! 

I know its not much work for two weeks, but I was really stumped with these problems and it took a while to determine a course of action!  Plus I've haven't had any free weekends lately and that will continue for the next couple of weeks.  Still I'm determined to overcome these obstacles and press on so that the Ausf A is done by the end of the year!

dupes wrote:

!!!!!![:0]!!!!!! (speechless)

Yeah, I was somewhat speechless too!  You'd think that a kit that cost almost $90 wouldn't have such problems!   Kinda makes me leery about buying anymore "out of production" full resin kits.  Ah well, live and learn!  At least I get to practice more scratchbuilding techniques! 

Glamdring wrote:

You're a brave man Ernest, I'd have thrown in the towel on that kit long ago.

Nah Glamdring, it too early in the match to throw in the towel yet!!  Yeah, I've been hit by some early punches that rattled me , but I'm still game to get back in the ring and pound this kit into submission!!

Buf -- good thoughts and observations! I was going to paint the fittings separately but I think I might fit the jack, fire extinguisher and such and paint them with the main hull. If the camo crosses them then it's likely the field shop where the camo was applied were on a schedule and weren't particular about removing the fittings when spotting on the disruptive scheme. This going for my 234 8x8 as well as the StuG.

I salute your craftsmanship on the resin beast! Yes, the smaller parts may have shrunk over time, and that bodes ill for any resin kit on the shelf... I was going to suggest backing the glacis and transom with plasticard and filling the gaps, but your approach is the better one. That's some sharp scratchbuilding on the transom!

Cheers, Mike/TB379

I want to respond to all the nice work that's been posted recently, starting with the most recent posts (I went back 10 pages):

Glamdring - Good looking StuG IV!  Is that a Dragon kit?  What scale?

Mike/TB379 - Another nice StuG!! Great work with the Cavalier Zim!! 

Boyd - Is that a Tamiya Mobelwagen?  Nice springs and barrel!!

Nachtflieger - That's a beeyootiful Brummbar you've built!!  I never really liked these Pz. IV variants before, but looking at yours makes me want to get that same Dragon kit!  Oh, and I did catch the Dragon Jagdpanzer you did earlier!!  Another sweet build!  Great work!

NucMedTech - Cool!  2 at the same time!  Both are looking good!  I've got the same Dragon kit in the stash, but not the Tamiya one.  

Bish - The Ostwind is coming along nicely!  I love the zim work you did on it! Camo also!

detailfreak - I saw some great PE and engine work on page 74 but I couldn't figure out which kit it is!  I'm guessing the Dragon Nashorn??

p38jl - Another double whammy!  Ausf H & J....looks like Tamiya?  Anyway both are looking great!  Is that resin zim made by Cavalier?

panzer88 - NICE camo work on your Dragon Ausf J late!  Not a scheme you see very often!  How's the mesh shurzen coming along?

dupes - Hey sorry to be a month late, but congratulations on the awards you won at Granitecon XVII and AMPS East for that Jagdpanzer!!  Well deserved my friend!  But dude, did I see some photos of ship thingies from you and Nate on page 71???  Whats UP with that?!?

Again all, GREAT GREAT work!!  Truly inspiring!!

Ernest - my (now modeler) girlfriend wanted a "big" winter project to do...so I ended up getting a Trumpeter 1/350 Nimitz. It's big alright! About 3 and a half feet long! I have a feeling that it'll be more than just this winter. Heck, it could be all of 2010. Need to make sure I still crank out my requisite armor and a/c builds somehow.

Great fixes on your kit, btw. All of those spare Dragon parts coming to the rescue! Who woulda thunk it!

Wow Bufflehead... what a project..!!! Looking god so far!

and thanks for the compliments, these are my first armor projects in over 27 years.. My Ausf H is the old Italeri kit, and the Ausf J is the Tamiya. The Zim is a resin kit that came with the kit when I bought it on Ebay, I'll have to check who made it , it escapes my mind at the moment. Some of the Zim on the lower hull, and around the hatches are home made by me with the Zim tool that came with the Zim kit and 2 part putty.

To all,..,. My Ausf H is getting closer to completion, I've applied some weathering wash and pin wash, decals.. and detailed the tools off the hull, then added them. I keep trying to get to painting and weathering the tracks, but stuff keeps cropping up.. mostly Life stuff, and Fire dept stuff, we've been busy with fire calls lately...

So If I can get one good evening at the bench with no fire calls and life traumas..lol, the H will roll out.

I also hope to have pics soon...!

thanks, Chris

bufflehead wrote:

Glamdring - Good looking StuG IV!  Is that a Dragon kit?  What scale?

Yup, the DML 1/72 iteration.  I love those little hunnies. 

That's also why I'm rolling on their Ausf.F1 right now, finally.  I've been wanting it since it was released.  Pics of that will be coming tomorrow.

Oh, so you're building the 1/72 DML F1??  Hmmm....I was thinking of doing that one too if I had the time!  Well, since I'll be out of town for the next few days work on the Ausf. A will be put on hold!  I should be able to find time do work on DML# 7321 over the holidays in Los Angeles!!

Dupes - can you please put me down for Dragon's 1/72 Ausf F1 as well?  I'll do it in panzer gray to match the Ausf A!!  Here's the kit:

dupes wrote:

Ernest - my (now modeler) girlfriend wanted a "big" winter project to do...so I ended up getting a Trumpeter 1/350 Nimitz. It's big alright! About 3 and a half feet long! I have a feeling that it'll be more than just this winter. Heck, it could be all of 2010. Need to make sure I still crank out my requisite armor and a/c builds somehow. Great fixes on your kit, btw. All of those spare Dragon parts coming to the rescue! Who woulda thunk it!

Well, if you must go naval on us at least you picked a "tank" sized kit!!  I was actually on the Nimitz for 3 days back when I was in high school NJROTC!!  Now that's a BIG ship!!

Yeah, ya gotta luv Dragon and all the extra parts that come in their kits!!  Some modelers don't like it, but it has certainly saved my butt a few times!!

Buffle- Wrestling with the kit,eh? Looks good and the scratch building is great stuff. No tapout on this one!!

The sturm and ostwind are coming along. Right now I'm still working on the E. Wondering if I'll make the deadline. If I don't at least I'll get them finished at some point, Hopefully update pics for this weekend.

Happy Thanksgiving to all you guys and gals.

-Stephen

Here's my start on the DML 1/72 Pz.IV Ausf.F1.  I figured I might as well get this going so that I can hit it with the paint bomb at the same time as the Stug.  This is after 1 day of work yesterday, but I admit that I spent more time searching for pieces on the floor that actual building.  I still can't find one piece, but the good news is that the carpet monster surrendered the second towing hitch for the Stug that went missing 3 days ago....

Anyway:

bufflehead wrote:

Boyd - Is that a Tamiya Mobelwagen?  Nice springs and barrel!!

That it is.  The old stand-by.  Nice kit... lots of ejector pin marks to sand or fill... but not bad...

Hey guys! It's been a while, I've been watching in the background, nice looking stuff!! I'm getting ready to finish up the three figures and secure my StuG IV to the base- so I'll be finishing up my dio for this GB, look for updates after the holiday!