ARMOR - Sherman Family Group Build

ok gang quick question... On the Tamiya Sherman I am building there is a small gap just above the front drive sprocket. this should be filled in correct? Sorry about the silly question,, but after almost taking the casting marks off,, I am not taking any more chances, and since I normally build German Armor this is, I geuss, in a sense foriegn land for me. So again my apologies for the many silly questions.

My build has come to a virtual halt for the last week. My kids have had major home work and Science Fair projects that needed help from "dear ol' Dad". (Amazing how that phrase rolls off their tongue so much easier when they need something!)

Anyway, the Fair is today and homework SHOULD be light, and the wife is leaving for California for the weekend!! I MIGHT actually get some work done tonight. I have managed to get the seams on the bogies filled and sanded. Will clean up and glue the bogie springs on tonight and hopefully get a coat of bronze-green sprayed on the bogies and lower hull. I'll probably have more filling to do once I see how this first coat comes out, though. Slow but sure doesn't quite discribe my modeling style. It's more like Slow but slower!! lol My hat's off to all of you who are doing so well. Especially Ron and Peter with their beautiful interiors. I wish I lived close enough to take ojt from them!!

Have a great time;

QUOTE: Originally posted by M1abramsRules hmmm, you seem to be skiing there quite a bit, Ron. how do you find time for models???

I guess that's why it takes me so long to do a build! Skiing... uhm - hmmmmm! Every chance I get!

Ron

QUOTE: Originally posted by spector822002 To make rons site links work : open picture ( on rons site ) right click mouse , then go to copy image location (on Win XP it is second one down) , which you paste between the

one correction there spector, the tags are: [img ] puturlhere " border="0" /> (without the spaces)

Very nice looking Sherman Asykr. I also like the camo job.
mark956

To make rons site links work : open picture ( on rons site ) right click mouse , then go to copy image location (on Win XP it is second one down) , which you paste between the [img] ... here ...[img] ...the link must end in.JPG( or similar )that should do it . keep in mind if you don't open the thumbnails the image will only show thumb sized pix ! Good luck !

hmmm, you seem to be skiing there quite a bit, Ron. how do you find time for models???

Asykr, Very nice! I still like the camo.

Well, winter storm warning for tonight (4 to 7 inches of fluff)... with any luck we'll be in the heavier snow belt and we'll be working on models and skiing tomorrow! (do your snow dances!)

If that's the case, I'll have to try to catch up with the posts on Monday.

Ron

a little blurry, but it looks like a very good sherman there. especially like the camo job!!
can't wait to see the completed pics!!!

I havn't done too much since last pics but it feels there is a lack of progress pictures here. Well maybe just for me, I love to look at other peoples projects. Anyways here are 2 more pics, still pondering over how I am going to do the tracks.

http://rongeorge.com/modules/Gallery/upload/Picture_005

http://rongeorge.com/modules/Gallery/upload/Picture_002

The [img] tags didn't want to work so i just gave the links.

Robert, et al, I found something else on the Verlinden radial. No forward engine mounts (they attach to the front of the engine and to the fuel cells on either side). Easy enough to scratch build out of styrene rod, etc. .. maybe even STRETCHED SPRUE!!??
Also, easier to attach rear engine mounts to the side of the engine compartment with the engine dryfit into the compartment (slide them to where they match up), than onto the engine mount as shown in the instructions.

Alex is working on suspension. Jo's is still in the box (pretty soon dad's gonna take it)! ...Oh, the problems with kids split between two homes...

Ron

I got a hold of me brother,so Robert you got mail.Thanks very,very much for your help and maybe you can help teach me to put a image in my replys-topics.Thanks once again and God Bless and Keep You.DIGGER

Digger - you got mail

Robert if you can e-mail me because I really don't know what I am doing on a computer.
I can make it to my e-mail or this site and type.Thats all I can do,I guess I need to go to
school just to learn this.Digger

Digger - I assume it's the uploading of the pics that is causing you grief. Use the e-mail address in my sigtag for the group build and send them to me and I'll post them up for you.

Will need help still starting from begining to end.I don't know to much about this
computer only what the wife teaches me and that is very little.Thanks Digger
Also my frame for my sandbag Sherman keeped coming apart.The glue would not hold so I scraped that ideal and will go to a added armoured Sherman of the Thrid army under G.S.Patton.I will camo this tank in o.d.green and black.I hope it will look as good as your all Shermans that you all are doing.Digger

Spector: Thank you for the comment. It is nice to hear that my work is improving. It means I am learning something from here (here?) LOL. OK from here.

Frosty: Looking good so far. Hope to see more progress from you soon.

Ron: Thanks, still need to do lots of things to the model though.

Sherm: 6th grade? I really got to know what your parents are feeding you. LOL.

Kenneth: Thanks, too. If you had seen what it looked like two night ago, you wouldn't call it subtle, LOL. Luckily I was able to salvage it.

M1: Well what can I say? I have Chinese blood and this kind of body structure comes with the genes.

Progress report: No progress as of last night. Spent time on the site of the new house under construction. I might be able to get back to it tonight (I hope).

Good day to all.

Ga.modler - best be ordering in the O.D. ..... that's ok though, you have lots of time with the indy tracks to build. Maybe some of the other guys and gals that use M.M. can recommend another colour from what you have.

Digger - the first thing you need to do is upload your pics to a host site. RonUSMC has one of these that can be used. Here's the link.
http://rongeorge.com/modules/Gallery/upload
Just follow the instructions on the site.

Once you have them uploaded there. Then navigate to the large picture (don't stop at the thumbnail). Right click on the picture, selcect properties, and copy the entire url for your picture.
Finally, in your post use the icons with your picture's url in between.
Like this
note: there are no spaces allowed ... I put them there for display purposes only.

Give it a try, if you run into trouble one of us is around to help.

Hay,all these good looking Shermans.You all I like what I see.

I could use so help from you all in that I have some pics to put on the site.But I don't know how to transfer from my computer to this site.Is there anyone that can help me.
Thanks Digger

well shermie since i dont use tamyia paints i only use model master enamels out of these which one. i am out of 34087 oilve drab and 30118 field drab need to phone roll models for a paint order (LOL) so here they are
grn drab enamel (NK)
field green 34097
forest green 34127
med green 34102
med field green 34095
dark green 34079(IK)
euro dk. green 1764 (NK)
as you see i got enough green when i got back into building i got 2 of everyting.

Lookin' good so far Frosty. Going to be a slightly longer build on this one I think.

120 lbs and a 29" waist??
I haven't even passed that, your not alone dwight. I'm 115 lbs with a 24" waistline. I never got a good start in life with regards to size. I had celiac disease until I was 8.

Ga.modler - O.D. Green or Dark Green .... both would be acceptable for this build.
Tamiya XF-61 or XF-62

Ga.modler - patience ... that's the key to building indies. It's going to take a couple of days just to clean the track bits and pieces.
Here's what I do for the build. Start out small building sets of 2 track links at a time. When you have a whole shwack of doubles built, then you can start building longer runs. Measure the distances between the top centre of the drive sprocket and the top centre of the idler. Build 2 runs that length. Measure the distance between the front road wheel centre and the read road wheel centre. Build 2 runs that length. Then build 2 short runs of 3 or 4 links to go from the rear road wheel to idler and 2 more short runs to go from the drive sprocket to the front road wheel. Using your idler as a guide, build two curved sections and then using your drive sprocket as a guide, build two more.
So at this point you have 6 sections built per side. Paint and weather these sections plus a handful more of the shoes and guide horns. These spare pieces will be used in the final assembly of the track. After painting your model, start putting the sections on the Sherman but work slowly !!! I always glue these tracks onto the suspension for added strength. I also always start at the top and work towards the bottom. The large bottom run is the last one I put on,

Frosty : heres the link to rons site http://rongeorge.com/modules/Gallery/albums.php don't forget to get the whole link in there right up to the .jpg!

Dwight, Sorry I'm late... but Great Job on the Isherman. The red really adds interest and color. I like it a lot.. Nice subtle weathering...

yahoo got my m4a4 sherman with 60 lp rocket in the mail today. going over the instructions and got to the indy tracks. oh lord what have i gotten myself into with this kit any of you more season vets on building indy tracks got any tips for this rookie on how to paint and putting them together. might be able to start on it this evening but going to a hunt show this weekend so no progess done on it this weekend.

any one know were i can get some pice of this m4a4 sherman need to know what colors to paint the thing

also now i dont feel so bad about being small dewight your not alone in this world. i am at 130 and waist 30. maybe i need to find me a woman to faten me up a little lol.

Frosty - looking good !!!!! Just one little comment on your A-Frame. The overall length of the frame looks a little long in the pics, it should be just slightly longer than the Sherman hull itself.
Of course this could be just from the positioning in the pics, in which case I'll just shut up now.

Dwight - 120 lbs and a 29" waistline ..... think I passed that in grade 6.

Ron - thanks for the info on the VLS radial. I'll look and see what I have for pics.
How's Alex & JoAnne making out with their Shermies ???

OH! I forgot, does anybody have a good schematic or wiring diagram of the M4 engine compartment? I have photos of an M10's and the M4A3 TM, but nothing on the M4! There are some junction boxes for what I'd suppose to be the ignition system and tail lights, but I want to be sure where I'm running wiring. The fuel lines are going in just fine, hiding them under the engine!

Ron

Hey hey! Snow day yesterday! Skiing, building, skiing, relaxing, who could ask for more!!??

Build, thanks much for posting my pix! Darned mouse / computer / no URL... drat. Anyhoo...

Thanks all for the compliments. I painted the engine yesterday and added some plumbing, as well as working on the tranny assembly.

RAF120, I like to do the entire interior because it's the only thing in the entire world I'm anal about. I love getting inside of a tank with a roll of film and burning it! Then, modeling it is just that much more fun. Also, I can take the turret off for major maintenance, or open the back deck and engine doors or 'just know it's all in there'! My wierd little thing I guess! (I started getting nuts about it in 3rd grade, so I guess I'm legally insane on the subject by now)

Dwight! The Isherman is looking great! It looks ready for the desert!

Ga.modeler, Super Priest! I used to crew the 'party wagon' for the Patton Museum and love the vehicle.

Claymore, any interior is great! Always nice to see something besides plastic through open hatches.

Frosty, Looking good kiddo! That's one heck of a project you've got going there! Keep it up!

Sherm: The Verlinden engine is easy to assemble and looks pretty good. I felt as if some of the detail on the 'fan shroud' around the engine was a bit mushy, but it'll look okay in the end.
The biggest problem I've had is with the engine mount or yoke. It looked like a bear to cut and file to size, so I made a mold of it and it's taken two castings to come up with a good part. Still, the part is very thin, needed some sheet styrene to complete its detail (from my crummy casting, although some was busted off of the kit part also) and will take a lot of care to install.
Also, Verlinden's instructions could best be described as 'cryptic'. I'm glad I have some pretty good references!
The compartment was made for the Tamiya M4, but has been fitting into my Dragon M4 without any major problems, a cut here a sand there, no biggies yet. I do wonder about the radiator placement. I probably remember the bulkhead on the M4 wrong (confusing it with the Stuart), but I'm sure it's fine.

That's about it. Great looking work so far all!

Ron