Thankyou for the tips with the tape. I have always avoided the yellow stuff, I herd that it accually pulled the paint down with the tape. I never use it after hearing about that.

I too, love building stuff from scratch, anything really, if I know how to do it (which reminds me, in the photo you had about the lathe, you had 1/32 scale .50 shells in the photo. Can you give me a quick demo on how to do it?)

      I have a lot of model cars, with odd wire bits and pieces of old computer parts representing parts of the engine. It's quite convincing, especially in a junkyard diorama (the parts are not from the car in question in a junkyard, so anything could be found anywhere)

Well, that's about it for me in this build, I thought about the "Yippy I'm a kid again" build, but that's a paradox with me (I'm 16 years old, so technically, I'm still a kid)

Hopefully the computer won't go out again =-)

Looking good Rail!!!!

Model building for fun?

I enjoy every hour at the hobby bench, sometimes I get stuck in a quagmire of scratch built details of my own creation & need to 'box and shelf' a kit for a period of time, only to return to one day to finish.

Masking tape in 1" widths has very limited flex over contours, for the first strip try cutting it down to 1/4" or 1/8" thick and then mask to this line. You will find it will conform to complex curves better. Also avoid the normal 'white - yellowish' masking tape. Buy painters blue or green when at local hardware store. Its a bit more $ yet worth the extra cost.

Back to my first statement,

I couldn't enter the GB 'Yippy i'm a kid again' I thought it over and decided I could not build in that way again. I have boxes of 'slapped together' models from when I was a kid back home. I will however take pictures of a few for the GB for fun!

Thanks for the masking tips. I don't know how well they will work for me, but I may be able to use some of them.

I'm notorious for not being able to mask a strait line, on a model or on a wall, so I don't know how well the tips you gave me will work. Still, it's a good experiment (mabe I can do it with that junk model of the Chevy station wagen)

Most often, I'll just build a model for fun, so there's no real contest worries (I do like group-builds, and seeing how my [lack of] skills stack-up to others)

I enjoyed this build, with the exception of technical dificulties (I really wanted to chuck my computer out of a truck going down the interstate)

The good news is, I found a treasure in my workbench clutter, 2 prestine 3.5" floppy discs (I love those things) yeah, I'm old-fashoned, but it helps with stuff I do....

Railfan 233

YES! Congratulations on getting the image thingy to work!

The plane looks cool, I like the paint scheme you came up with.

A few tips on masking:

-Only the edge you are using to divide the two colors has to be down tight, the rest can be anything, for example I have used blue poster tack, aluminum foil and plastic bags.

-ALWAYS lay tape on clean glass and cut the edge with a sharp #11 blade first. The tape edge gets contaminated with lint and other items that will effect its adhesion and how straight it will be.

-Some spray a layer of clear over the tape to seal the edge from the color bleeding under. Even the base coat can be used for this step.

-Remove tape ASAP and peel  it back slowly & close to the model. A tooth pick works well to lift a corner to grab. Some score the edge with a new #11 blade to avoid a jagged edge. The trick is to keep layers thin.

-My final step is to wet sand the edges to smooth over the ridge formed between color coats. I use 1200 grit wet sand paper for this. Like auto builders a wet sand between all layers will always pay off in a ultra smooth finish.

Everyone builds for their own reasons, I enjoy contests and strive to make each build better than my last. I hope 1 or more tips listed above brings your next masking job to the next level.

 O.K., let's try again.....

This should be the over-view of the whole aircraft (I hope I did these in the right order)

this should be a  close-up of the nose...

and(last one) the tail [my lack of masking skills very apparent here]

I can't see anything in preview, so I'm going to post it and see if it works. (Come on computer, work for once!)

EDIT: YES! IT WORKED! 

Close yet so far away!

Sorry Railfan you are having technical issues at this time, I really am keen to see your work!

Take a break and try again. Once the image is up-loaded to Photobucket you need to highlight the IMG link. Left click it so it turns blue, then right click to select 'copy' When you paste it on this page it should start with IMG and have a code looking line behind it about a full line depending on the length of its name you gave it in Photobucket. Im not sure if the preview function here will show the images or not, just post and if nessisary it can be edited by you on your post.

*sends computer good karma to Railfan*

alright, you convinced me,the computer I'm using right now will survive.

 Time to go to the flea-market and buy some "victims" for the shooting range...

Railfan 233

Figured...

 Don't you love technology!?

 

Now, I have to "dispose" of my anger (The computer may not survive)

OH NO !!!!!!!!! Not the computer then we wont get to see your pictures, self control man, self control !! Thats the answer.

now wheres that post button 

I got a photobucket account now, let's see if it works, or if I give the censored smiley's another workout... (please respond and tell me if you can see it on your end)

?action=view¤t=F 7F002.jpg

The nose of the aircraft (again)

?action=view¤t=F 7F001.jpg

The over-view again (I still think I'm in the running for "World's most cluttered and paint-splattered workbench")

EDIT:   It didn't work. All I can say is follow the links (I hate this technology!)

Figured...

 Don't you love technology!?

I'll try a host site, but I'm not too sure.

        I have been trying to get the ommages to come up on every forum I'm on, and nothing... (this exact message you sent me is almost a carbon-copy of what a forum member on another forum told me)

 I'll try to get photobucket up, and I'll try again later.

Now, I have to "dispose" of my anger (The computer may not survive)

Heh Railfan buddy,

I could not get your links to work?

To post directly on this site you need to up-load the pictures to a third party image host site like 'Photobucket' Then 'copy' the link listed that starts with 'IMG' Get back to this page and 'paste' the link here. When you post the reply your link magically appears as the picture!

I know its a PITA yet its cool to see the pictures on this page without searching for links and going to other sites. I have had no issues, spam or Emails from 'Photobucket' and their service is very professional

 I finnished my model of the F-7F Tigercat today, with the exception of the "in-flight" display stand (I need to re-build it. It's too flimsy)  Here are some photos of my handy-work.

1: overview (Do you think I'm in the running for world's most cluttered and paint-splattered workbench?)

2: close-up of the nose and nose-art (My camera is a cheep one. This is the best photo I could take)

3:Tail section. (my lack of masking skills are evident here)

That's what I came up with for the paint job (if you cleaned up the poor masking, it could be true airshow- paint scheme) This is my first time doing a natural-metal finnish, and I'm pleased eith the results.

Here's a list of decal sheet's used:

Revell's 1/25 scale Peter-built 375 tractor- red, white, and blue stars on the nose

Revell's 1/25 scale 49 Mercury- flames comming from behind the cocpit.

Testors 1/72 scale SBD Dauntless (sub-hunter option)- stars-and-bars insigneas

Revell's  1/48 scale F-4U Corsair (Black Sheep option)- large white "24" on the tail

(I think Squadren) 1/72 scale P-47- FAA regestration number

Sharpie marker and my skills- "Ace of Spades" nose-art

         Well, that's it for now. I enjoyed building this  "Airshow Tiger" and the build overall. I can't wait to do it again.

 Thanks for the info on the lathe and how to use it (That's where I screwd-up. I used my Dremmel, and it went to the high setting, spewing out the plastic immidiately.)

 I'll keep my eyes open for a Black&Decker drill (I think we have one in the garage)  One last question about the .50 BMG rounds. Do you know a methood on how to make the individual links for them? (call me crazy, but I really want to have realistic rounds of ammo in the gunbays on every aircraft)  Also, do you think the methood could be used in other scales (like up-scaled to 1/6 scale or downscaled to 1/48 scale)?

Railfan 233

 

One question: How do you use your lathe? (I have tried it myself, but the lathe was the most terrifying thing I have ever held in my hands  ) 

Would plastic sprue be O.K. for use in one?

The 'lathe' is a 3/8 variable speed B+D (Black + Decker) reversible drill. The trigger allows 'feathering' of the RPM and it can be set with a dial on the trigger for full pull RPM. It started as a way to turn road wheels to sand them, soon I found that any plastic part that could be mounted can be turned to sand rounder. The edge of a file was used to get the tiny belt pulleys formed, with the drill in the table and healed close to it. The other hand also braced on the table to steady everything.  Aircraft panel scribers also work well, I use finger nail sanding boards exclusively for this technique. If you purchase a drill for modeling get a rechargeable one that the chuck closes to a point. This way you will not be limited to the smallest size it will mount.

I recently found tooth picks can be turned and sanded in a Dremel tool, the higher RPM works well long as you go easy on them. I made 1/48 scale sledge hammer handles this way.

Above is a jig used to cut uniform .50 BMG shells in 1/32 scale with brass rod + Dremel tool.

Wheels mounted to turn also are easier to paint using the posts.

Railfan 233

 Maybe it's not so unrealistic for a flame job on one after all)

Back in the late '70's, I saw a T-6 that was gloss black with flames painted on it. So no it wouldn't be unrealistic for a show plane at all.

Jason, I found a big SNAFU with the kit (the F-7F) I looked at the wrong label on the box, and it turns out that the F-7F I'm building is the old Monogram kit

 ( I have both the AMT/Eartl kit and the old Monogram kit. I got the boxes mixed-up, and I didn't realize it untill now. Sorry for any inconviniance) -Railfan233

 I agree with you, but I would change my saying to "I pitty the fool who doesn't think all classic cars are uber cool!"* (*the word "uber" was used by my algebra teacher in the 8th grade)

         That's a lot more than I can do with a car engine (I can eather build it strait from the box, or build it "salvaged" with useful "Quick to Pick" parts missing)  You are definately comming along good with your build

      An update from my build: I have started painting today, with a metalic silver from a spray-can. I have seen some photos of F-7F's wearing a natural-metal with some paint on certan areas of the fuselage. I don't see any squadren markings, so I'll take artistic lisence and paint my bird in a simaler scheme, and use the kit's decals. I'm currently waiting for the sun to "bleach" out the yellowing in the decals. I'll post photos after the painting is done, in case the decals are not ready for the deadline. Or, I could use the flame decals from the Revell Mercury to produce an unusual (and un-realistic) paint scheme for a show aircraft, like the stunt planes seen at airshows (But then again, I have seen every type of thing painted on an aircraft, from tigers to candy. Mabe it's not so unrealistic for a flame job on one after all)

One question: How do you use your lathe? (I have tried it myself, but the lathe was the most terrifying thing I have ever held in my hands  ) 

Would plastic sprue be O.K. for use in one?

I pity the fool who don't think Mercury's are super duper awesome cool!

Here is a WIP from the Ford engine separated from the transmission. The idea at this stage is to model the stock motor hanging on a overhead hoist just yet still just away from the transmission. The fan bell pulley and the rest were turned on my poor man's lathe as shown. The bell housing large gear and spline are from a old clock that donated its innards to my build.

Actually, Jason, I'm stuck in the 80's due to the extreme action they had in the action shows back then (like the A-Team, garunteed gunfights, and huge explosions are the norm, with cars being shot up) not to mention, the cars (Big & boxy, that's where I'm at. Cars back then were made of steel, which turned them into tanks)

I'm glad to be on the build, and thank you for letting me get aboard (dispite the fact I had to swim to catch the ship) Although I build plenty of models (close to or over 100/year) they are mainly paper models (my favorite media because it's free) or real cheep plastic kits (like what Revell sells in the Michaels Arts & Craft stores)  with, (as noted before) an occasional locomotive or railcar (I plan to do several Santa Fe rebuild GP-7u 's, and then scratchbuild some transfer cabooses)

     I did score the F7F Tigercat from an antique dealer during a sale (Speeking of which, I have made good progress, dispite missing parts, and  the gear-door being lodged inside the nose. Now on to my pet peeve, masking the canopy and painting) and I have also been able to build odd pieces (like various wooden crates and palets) with stripwood from Wal-Mart.

I can give some encuragement for the '57 Nomad, Keep chiping away at it (mabe turn it into a "while the glue and paint dries" build) andeventually, you'll get it done. It's like scratch-building, keep working on it and eventually, it will get done.

I agree (and back you up on) the purchace of kits you can see in a diorama. I have had that happen plenty of times (One that is still on the back burner untill I acually buy the kit is a model of a Huey, which I would like to modify to look like the Huey on the fromt cover of the book Bent and Battered Rotors Vol.2)

I hope you have a nice day, too  (not sure what the exact Southern variant is. I'll look into it)

Railfan 233,

Yes the 80's was the best decade. Sex was safe and bull riding was dangerous!

Sounds like you are quite the model builder! Glad to have you aboard this lill' GB I started. The 57' Nomad is a challenge to say the least, I chose to box it up until after the Merc' is finished. Basically I have not built a car model sense I was around 10 years old. I figured get a easy one in before tackling such a mess of plastic.

I purchase models because I can envision then in a diorama, some do not get to that point yet I do try and make a attractive display for each one. My last contest I believe it helped score one build higher than the rest. I will post some WIP's soon from the Merc' project.

Have a good one eh! (Canadian for 'have a nice day)

Jason

You got to admit, I bring intrest to anything (except parties, if the gathering is not with my family, I'll leave the country untill the party is over) I have always been a deep thinker, and if you or anyone else shows me a model or a vignette, I'll put a story so good down (eather on paper or in words) that the person(s) will want to attach to their model/vignette. 

     Now, I have an unfinnished Revell B-17, which I got from the Mighty 8th airforce museum in South Georgia, which I hope to continue when the disaster area I call a workbench is clean(er) yet I already have a beleavable story for the bomber to use in a diorama. I (admittedly, with no plan) started grinding the plastic thin almost everywhere on the bomber (even taking the whole rear door next to the waist gunners off) and modeled so many bullet and shrapnel holes, that a real B-17 wouldn't have been able to fly. The story I put with it is along the lines of the flight was ambushed over the English Channel on the return home, and the bomber (name still pending) dispite being shot to pieces, remained flying and the crew kept fighting, untill alied Spitfires chased the agressors off.

 With the critical state of the bomber (1 engine on fire, and the other 3 froze-up from bullets laged in them) the only hope was to glide back to England. They made it, but the bomber came down in a farmer's field, plowing into a haystack.

I got sort of an idea for the ill-fitting parts of the Chevy Nomad, How about modeling it as a "crashed" car?

It should be simple, peeling paint, rust, and disrepair was covered back in the November, 2007 issue of FSM (Karl Logan was the outhor) and, if you want them, dents and crumpled fenders can come curtesy of a heat-gun (be careful not to burn the plastic) or a hair-dryer.( Admittedly, I plan to do the same thing with my '49 Mercury, as mentioned before. It's just a sugestion)

[ Normally, if I get a kit with problems like you are mentioning, I just beat it up, like I'm doing with my current project, a re-release of Revell's SBD Dauntless. Copyright date, 1960 Flash and ill-fitting parts are for everything]

For the railcars I planned to do, I was going to do a Rail Yard Models craftsman kit ( more than likely the KELX X-79) but there was a change in plans. I was looking through my stash of kits, and found an old AMT/Eartl  Korean War F-7 fighter (I can't remember the name) I will get started on it as soon as the Dauntless is done ( Just some extreme wethering, and I'll place it on the bottom of a model sea)

If you want to look, at the railcar kits offered, here's the link:

www.railyardmodels.com

If anything else, I still got some old Athern Made in the USA lits to build (admittedly, they will take less than 5 min. to assemble, but I will probably build them and include them, since the subject is Made in the USA)

Ha ha excellent insight into my lill' vignette Railfan 233! Actually the figures are planned to be added along side a P-51 Mustang with the motor exposed. Hence the elevated work platform. Everything is white glued down to ease removal to their new home later on this year.

I was at a car show & shine and bought Revell's 57' Chevy Nomad off a vendor. The mold dates to 1988 and I must say what a stinker of a kit! Horror is the only word when I dry fit parts, gobs of flash, terrible molded parts and really it will be a endeavor to get it up to any type of standard. I returned and bought a few bags of assorted wheels off him to replace the kits sad offerings. He seen my pain and I gave me the Merc' for 10$. What a difference! I was all smiles dry fitting and planning that build. Maybe the 57' Nomad is best built in the 'Yippy im a kid again GB' and used as a pellet gun target after...

Thanks for your interest in this GB, let me know the rail car's manufacture & scale (HO or 1/87 I assume)

Jason

BTW~ Searched for HO scale tanks and found some tasty resin offering$... pricey though.

  Freddie looks like he's doing O.K. (and possibly enjoying someR&R) and I'm assuming he's sort of lost, as shown by the sort of puzzled look on the Fronz's face (Sort of the old Route 66 story: lost driver is finally nagged enough by wife to ask for directions to California, he stopps in at  a garage/gas station, finds station attendant around back working on a car, Man asks attendant how to get from Point A to Point B, and attendant, who was never good with Geography, reading a map, etc. is severly puzzled. He still gives the man directions, which places them 1 mile past the middle of Nowhere)

 I'm glad a model of a railroad car is acceptable, I have some kits I would like to order, and chances are good I may be able to get them soon (how soon is unknown)

      I look foward to seeing the 49 Mercury Club Coupe. I got one waiting in the wings myself, only, it's the Revell Special Edition custom kit. (Yeah, it'll be customized alright, it will be customized into a wreck with rust "chopping" the roof off, and assorted garage tools, toolboxes, etc. scattered all over (Speeking of garage tools, It's about time to scratchbuild a workbench or something, to make it look like the restoration started, but never finnished) While car is not appropriate for the build, I'll post photos elsewhere.

Railfan 233:

Yes a model RR car is acceptable!

For a change of pace I am building a 1949 Mercury Club Coupe by amt ERTL. made in the USA! All ready both motors are sawed in half, plans in a vignette during the motor swap. I want to exclude the after market and scratch build most of the extra details needed. The top will be chopped of course. Perhaps I will post WIP's in this thread.

Jason

Oh here are a few *finished shots of 'Freddie & the Fonz'

Railfan 233

 I got a quick question (and a sort of argument to support it)

 How about a model railcar? 

I know it's silly (and somewhat stupid) to mention anything like it here (after all, there are plenty of magazines and forums out there for the subject) but, the way I see it, model railroading is nothing more than scale model building in motion (you plac e it on the tracks, and it will go...most of the time)

          I know, there are some model railroad "Craftsman kits" out there that rival plastic models in detail, and most of them are resin kits made in the good old USA.  It's worth a thought...

\Never mind..... I jumped on the band wagen laght again, and didn't realize it was well underway.

N

 I got a quick question (and a sort of argument to support it)

 How about a model railcar? 

I know it's silly (and somewhat stupid) to mention anything like it here (after all, there are plenty of magazines and forums out there for the subject) but, the way I see it, model railroading is nothing more than scale model building in motion (you plac e it on the tracks, and it will go...most of the time)

          I know, there are some model railroad "Craftsman kits" out there that rival plastic models in detail, and most of them are resin kits made in the good old USA.  It's worth a thought...

 Thanks guys!!!

Glad you enjoyed the show!!!

Fermis:

all I can say is "WOW" !!!

Fermis ok dats it, mine are goin in the trashcan and I am starting all over

That my friend is one VERY VERY nice P-61 Blackwidow.  Love the paint job, the weathering is just outta sight, I really like all your added detail, and the CANOPY, the canopy, actually looks like it belongs on her.

fermis, Excellent job on the aircraft! Too bad the canopy hides your outstanding control panel work. The weathering is very realistic and I reall like the scratch built details on the wheels like brake lines. Are you planning to enter this build in any contests? If so I am sure it will impress the judges. Thanks for shareing your techniques and skills.

Jason ~ 

Much thanks again guys!!!

 All done!!!

 Finished her off by rebuilding the forward antennas with stretched sprue, along with the other antennas, masked and painted the tail #s, added a landing light and wiring to the nose gear. Unmasking the canopy revealed yet another mess. Had to strip and redo it. Didn't come out so great, but oh well! The nose art was a spare from a P-51 "pyn-ups" set.

And, that all folks!!!!

Fermis- WOW are you some sort of modeling machine or what!?!?! I wish I could get that much done that fast. And not as a rush job - she looks spectacular! I picked up some replacement decals for a P-61 off ebay the other week, now I want to run out and pick one up. Just what I need is to start on another project!

Fermis that looks fantastic mate!!!!!!

Got her damn close now!!!  Finished up the painting and weathering today, now it's down to a few decals and fidly bits.

I brush painted the walk lines and a few dry(ish)brushings took care of the invasion stripes.

HEHE!!!  Sorry bout that!!!!        

Awwww man Fermis you got me big time on that one, got so upset I had to take a nitro.  Then I scrolled down geeze glad you wus messing with us. Don't know if I will even try and do another P-61 after seeing your build. I too had to trim the elevator to get the booms to line up.

HEHE you had me!! I will admit to that I Just said' Ah no, you did......nt.. Looking good mate!!! Can't wait to see her in paint!!

 That huge milestone has finally been reached!!!!

I cemented the left wing, allowed to set, then dryfit the right side with the tail. NO GOOD!!!  My boom/wing joint is obviously off a bit.

Here's the fit

I got so damn frustrated....I threw it against the wall

 HAHA....NO WAY!!!!!! This is too easy!!!!

Something had to give. The tailplane being the only option, I broke out the razor saw and lopped off about 1/16", a little sanding and everything fit like a glove!!!

A bit of masking(gear bays and engines) and she'll be ready for paint!!!!!

WOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

Very nice!!!!!  Bright and colorful!!!

Fermis- you're working so hard I feel I should do less to counterbalance you

Good stuff man! Looking forward to seeing her done

Sorry I promised pics this weekend but ended up getting busy and let them slide. Well here they are. Actually I wondered about posting these close-up pics since they show up every little brushmark and mistake. The actual figure base is about 3 inches/10 cm in length.

2 MORE!!!! E-gads man!!! I get a headache just thinking about ever doing another ONE!!!!

 After sanding, lighter and lighter grits, I went to a piece of plain old paper, then toothpaste with a rag from old sweatpants, followed up with a few squirts of Metallizer sealer.

Fermis those canopys are amazing Yours is gonna be one sweet P-61. How did you polish the canopys, I cant believe how clear they came out. If I aint careful you will have me starting another one soon, I have 2 more kits ya know.

 Thanks SIM!!!  I think I was about the same ages for my first two!!! (give or take a year)

What gives....am I the only one building here????!!!!!!!

Anyway, I finally got this canopy whipped into shape. The bad news is, after all that grinding and sanding, the final polish revealed tons of crap and a finger print on the inside(have always had that problem)

So, I had to remove the boarding ladders and was able to squeeze in an angled dental tool with some poster-tac smashed on the end of it, and get almost all the poop out of there. For the finger print, I slid in a q-tip dipped in widex to take care of that....What a PITA!!!!

 I am the WINNER!!!!!!!

WOW Fermis that is looking great!!!!! I have had two of those over the years and NEVER have I put the effort into them that you are!!! Of course my first one was when I was 10! the second I would have been about 19-20. Looked much better but still doesn't compare to yours!!!

Lots of great work here peoples!!! Been meaning to stop by but I get distracted by so many threads in the forums lol.

Fermis WOW the 61 is looking great, cant believe how good all that scribing looks and the new screens in the booms look really good. That canopy is a nightmare isn't it, with all the work you are putting into yours it will look as it should look me thinks. Ya know I will be remembering your tips and tricks for my next P-61.

I am finding out why no one makes a vacuformed canopy for these kits. I have done 2 pulls sense we talked and still have troubles with it. Might have to try making it a 2 piece deal but that will mean starting over with more molds.

Thanks again guys!!!

 I'm gettin somewhere finally.

Got my mmesh in and replaced the detail on the forward bottom of the booms.

Really poor fit of the boom to the wing was delt with by slipping in some strips of styrene in the larger gaps and stretched sprue in the smaller areas.

Attached the engines/cowling and replaced the louvers in the intakes. Completely forgot that I was going to put in the ductwork inside before closing up the wings  Too late now!!!

 Those issue are quite minor compared to this canopy. Of the past 3 61s that I have built, not one of them came close to being this bad. I shimmed all the way around the front canopy and around the top(openning portion), and a few shims for the rear canopy as well. A lot of grinding with the dremel and a lot of sanding. Now , it looks like it was meant to be.

 Still got more sanding and polishing. I taped up the clear parts, inside and out so the CA wouldn't fog it up. Doesn't really matter on the outside, cause I'm sanding the hell out of it!!!

Heh fellas! Still alive and kicking...Started a j-o-b out of town and been without a computer for the last few weeks...anyhow have weekends off and looking forward to rain out days to get building again! Glad to see this GB is still active.

Still looking plain out awesome Fermis!

Update: Maria is finished! I sprayed her with an overcoat of matte varnish tonight. Unfortunately by the time I finished I didn't have the light for good photos. I've try to get some taken and put up this weekend.

My compliments on your patience.

That kind of kit is one reason I got out of the hobby in the early 90's.

 Thanks for another ego stoke Randy!!!!

 I hate brand new brushes, I like em after the tip had flattened out a bit(about a millimeter wide), with a bit of a curl to em. Then the trick is to dip the tip in the lid of the paint, wipe of the majority on the lip of the lid, then just touch it to the part. Very tedious and time consuming, but the results are worth it!!!!

 This rescribe and rivet job has been a real test of patient, sanity and my overall well being!!! But I finally pretty much got that all wrapped up. Just needs a light sanding to knock down all the scribing ridges. If my order from Squadron feels like showing up anytime(ordered last tuesday) I can replace the mess on the bottom of the booms and in the wing intakes. Then I can proceed with getting thing together.

 Flaps up for this girl, I think it looks better that way, that or it's the reverse psychology from them being offered in the down position. So, I had to add a bit to the flaps to fill in the gaps.

 I also removed the molded on cowling, to make it easier to deal with the big gap there. I cut a styrene disc to make up the difference.

The gap on the other side will be easy enough to deal with, with a bit of styrene.

Fermis OMG all I can seem to do looking at your latest WIP pictures is shake my head in amazement. This is gonna be one awesome P-61. When are you going to start doing how-to videos ? BTW I went and got my mitts on a couple of 000 brushes to see if I can paint an IP half as well as you do.

 I was doing a terrible job on the rescribe, so I took a step back and CA'ed over all my lines, sanded her back to smooth and went back at it. This time using a needle in a pinvice instead of the knife I tried the first time. Needle is definetly the way to go!!!! I'm really into this project now, so much so, I decided to break out the rivet gun (needle) and rivet her one by one!!!

 Just needs a light sanding.

Fermis: Looking great so far!

SuppressionFire

Interisting sequence of construction fermis. Was this a older build you decided to take apart and detail further?

 I'm building a new one, to replace the old one. The kit comes with 2 different cowling/boom arrangements, one side has open flaps the other is closed. So, I cut off the closed side from the old one and will graft it on to the new one. I'm saving the fuse and wings of the old one for a future "what if" build. (thinking some A-10 engines / nacelles slung under the wing and a tail similar to the Cutlass(attached to the wings)

Interisting sequence of construction fermis. Was this a older build you decided to take apart and detail further? Im sure it will be fine in your capable hands. I have a box full of old models I built as a kid and one day would like to rebuild one or two. Kind of bogged down on my Trumpeter 1/32 scale P-51 D right now and vowed not to start any new kits untill this one is finished. Vacume formed 5 rear bubble canopys and still not 100% happy. Hopefully #6 will be perfect, last one almost was but a piece of lint marred it!

Accurate Miniatures ~ If the molds are tooled in the USA and packaged with the instructions there then I would consider it made in USA. Thats probally 75% of the effort to produce the kit and they probally inspect the sprue frames domestically before packageing. I hear they have a great IL II Stormovik kit in 1/48 scale.

Well, the deed has been done, the hammer has fallen!!!

The cowl has been cut off along with the engine and bulkhead.

Wired up the engines, will close them in shortly.

More Power Scotty:

Am looking forward to your comments about the kit as I've always liked the old Auburns.

Suppressionfire,

Here are the photos that I finally got around to taking and uploading to Photobucket.  The boxtop shows the "Made in USA" graphic.  I have not progressed on the build other than the interior shown in a not so clear second photo.

I begin a refueling outage next week, so further progress will be greatly hampered for the next several weeks, but I will do what I can and will update with photos as time allows.

Fermis: looking good, the older P-61 you did looks perfect to me.

NMT: Accurate products are molded in S. Korea but shipped to NC as you stated and packaged there. I think the boxes, instructions, etc. are produced in the States as well. I'm not sure what to call them, I'd leave it up to SuppressionFire to make a judgement call.

Looked it up on Wiki, Accurate miniatures is located in Concord, North Carolina. Looks like they fell on some hard times and the original owners had to sell the business, but it is still owned and operated in America. They have some nice plane and car kits. Here's a link www.accurate-miniatures.com hope this helps.

-Stephen

WOW! Excellent work fermis. There is a gap (no pun intended) between the WIP's, it went from filler to killer! Anyhow looks great and will draw viewers in for closer inspections for sure. Thanks for shareing your skills and tallent.

Accurate miniatures? Not sure on that one... for the sake of simplicity whatever country of origin is printed on the box and / or instruction sheet is good enough. I origionaly thought this group build would be easier to find kits that qualified, other than resin or vintage there are few plastic kits produced domestically.

 Thanks again guys!

Send me your pits, I'll build em all!!!!!!

This beast is progressing slowly, the rescribe has stolen my soul, kind of a struggle to not throw it to the back of the stash, but that's not how I roll!!!!!

Fuse is together-ish, I forgot how bad this kit can be!!!

 Afew styrene wedges fills her up.

 All sanded smooth, scribed and replaced rivet detail with dabs of CA

And, a couple farewell pics of the old one before she goes on the chopping block

Bye, Bye, thankfully, she filled out an organ donor card!!!!

Hey everyone,

    Just got done reading all the posts, nice idea. I saw people scrounging around for alternative manufacturers and was wondering, is Accurate Miniatures made in the US? If so that would open some opportunities.

-Stephen

Herr von Hammer: thanks, I'd forgotten about the abbreviation.

I'm unclear about the "CA" term

CA= Cyanoacrylate... AKA "Super Glue"..

SuppressionFire: Cool canopy making technique and I'd like to try it myself for making parts for old kits in my stash......but I'm unclear about the "CA" term.

Fermis: Very nice work on the cockpit.  

Sure wish Revellogram could see it.

Woah you really are in the zone! I have a name for your comission cockpit painting business:

1/72 for YOU! Cockpits by fermis

Now you need some snazzy vacume formed canopys to set the interior work off

I made one yesterday out of a round tupperwear container, a old music CD and electrical tape. The CD is taped to the tupperwear lid, a hole on the bottem fits snug over the vacume hose. It is pinched between the stove and counter to hold steady and up right. The plastic sheet is CA glued to the tupperwear bottem, a roll of tape inside makes for more surface to glue to. Holes are drilled in the bottom of container to allow air in. I heated about 1" over element set to 7 /10 on the dial for about 1 minute or untill unbearable heat on bare hands. Press over the bottem half quickly, the sound it makes confirms it worked.

Fermis your work is stunning to say the least. Makes me feel like a complete beginner to be honest. I cant get over how real your detail work looks.

Gamera actually with the Monogram P-61's if you get good crystals with the kit you can see a lot of the work done inside. Fermis will be able to show off his fine work.

Wow, that looks fantastic!

It's a shame when you place it inside the airframe you won't be able to see all of it.

Thanks SF & V-man!!!!

 Got the seats knocked out this morning, still need to touch up a few spots here and there, clean up the wash in a few areas as well.

I scratched all the framework on the seats. The pilot seat framework is stretched sprue, the other 2 are wire. I used thick(ish) foil for the seatbelts.

fermis What the duce? OMFG thats a detailed IP You really have a nack for those. FSM could use a articl on your techniques for painting IP's. Anyhow excellent work, looking forward to more WIP's

Fermis WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!! when are you going to do a how to DVD ?? They look better than the PE I have for my next P-61 build. Do you use enamel for your fine paint work and a one strand brush ? Oh yeah the sad thing is half the lower panel on the left side of your IP will be hidden by the cockpit side panel you may want to dry fit them in the cockpit to check. I thought on my next one I would thin the left cockpit side panel down some so that wont happen. But then again you prolly already spotted that. I will be watching your build closely I know I will learn a few tricks from it.

Hey V-man, I got this kit about the same time as you had your wip going(got a little inspired to replace an old one)

This is my 4th go at this kit over 20 some odd years, the last being about 7/8 years old and due for replacement, I'll be hacking off a cowl from the old one so that both sides will be the same(closed most likely), She will be dressed in green/grey (I've had enough of black), also trying my hand at a rescribe(found out already that I suck at this!!!!!) I just started on this the other day, so here's what I got so far.

IP, hand painted, clear glue inst. faces. Scratched rudder pedals.

R/Os bulkhead

Pit rear bulkhead with scratched ?tank and extinguisher.

Side panels, added wires and new o2 hoses from a 24 gauge guitar string, throttle levers/ stretched sprue.

I'm currently working on some scratched detail for the seats, should be done with them tonight.

Fermis you are building a P-61 ???? Oh i gotta watch this build as it is my favorite kit to build, I have 2 built and 2 in the closet. Still trying to vacuform a good canopy for them on a home made machine, but I havent played with that in a while. Hope you will be generous with the pictures Fremis.

 It is a newer boxing. On the box it says "FABRIQUES EN CHINE", I think that's French, maybe Spanish!!!!!

Anyway, it is Monogram, same old molds as the vintage boxings. From reading through some of the other posts, looks like I'm OK.....correct???

Roger that, I'll post a few pics tonight.

To edit, click on "MORE" on your first post, "EDIT" then edit away!!!

fermisHeh! Is it vintage 'Made in the USA?' If so please join!

...Now if I can only figure out how to edit to first post to list all the participants

 SF, got room for another?

 I just started Monograms P-61(1/48) and would like to throw it in the mix here!

SuppressionFire: I'm actually still in the planning stage for the CF-104. I have acquired some resin parts and am still assembling resources but I won't actually know how much detail I will actually apply until warmer weather allows resin casting and painting.

BTW...for some reason I am having trouble uploading photos to photobucket. The website either won't recognize the files or just won't upload them even though I have dramatically reduced the file size.

Only a photo of a WIP MPC Mk9 Hawk uploaded before the problems started.

I will upload a photo of the WIP HAWK V-1 as an additional entry for this group build when I overcome the problems.

Gamera Ahh yes I fully understand being 'in the zone' or like you put it 'dialed in' The missing arm I assumed was the pose and the camera angle. Anyhow excellent paint job on her, really adds a 3D look to her assets! LOL Have a good day and looking forward to the completion photographs.

Jason

Thanks SP, but she's not quite finished- you'll notice she's still missing her right arm

I still need to finish the monkey and attach him and the top of the treasure chest. And I have no idea where the dang macaw got off to, I'll probably find him in a box with a jagdpanzer or someplace equally bizzare.

I'll try to get her finished off before too much longer, I was afraid it had been so long since I've posted someone might think I'd dropped off the edge of the earth or had a heart attack from shoveling snow...

The figure was done entirely in acylic except for the can of Kylon I used to prime her. Sorry I didn't do any WIP photos, I know you did with your figures but when I get 'dialed in' I tend not to think about anything else like the camera. Frankly from your figures I think you pretty much have painting figures nailed- they look fantastic but if you're still interested I'll see about doing a WIP on the figures forum sometime in the future.

Will get more pictures and angles posted when she's done.  

Gamera Maria looks fantastic! I would have liked to see more WIP's to learn about your technique painting figures. I assume you use oils? Great job regardless, really like the color choices and how the hair highlights sets it off and complements the shin guards color. When you get a chance post a few more pictures ok buddy? Cool

That being said I consider the figure finished. Great work and thanks again for partisipating!

Spruce-ce Goose Sounds like you are putting a lot of work into the CF 104. When you get a chance post some pictures alone the journey.

Thanks for the replys fellas!

Gamera: I've been investigating alternative methods for representing flush rivets. Per photos in my 1984 copy of SMS publishing of Canada number one on the CF104- a close up photo shows prominent rivet detail in contrast to the dark green camo.

Also want to buy some casting materials to attempt duplicating parts. Resin casting - and spray painting- will be delayed till I can open windows at home.

CF104 will share time with a small veggie garden and possible kitchen or bath remodel so I don't expect any significant progress till later in the year.

I DID, however, find an old 1/48th scale HAWK V-1 to keep me busy.  The old kit shows it's age when compared to the Tamiya version. The HAWK kit needs a lot of filler to blend the halves as well as scribing new detail.

SuppressionFire- great looking figures, should have said something earlier but been a little busy.

Spuce Goose and Scott- looking forward to seeing your stuff!

Sorry, I've been hard at work on my Phantom, Soviet Union GBs and a few other things as well. Maria is close to done but haven't touched her in over a week. I'll see about finishing her off. Quick pic here of what I've got done so far:

More power Scotty Woah dude! Thanks for the up-date. Good to hear people haven't forgot about the domestic group build I started.

I may build a Ultracast Lufwaffe pilot to keep the thread on the main page more. Anyhow looking forward to your posts and pictures!

Jason

SuppressionFire,

I have stalled out a bit on the Speedster for now, but I will see about breaking out the camera this weekend for a boxtop photo and possibly an in progress photo thrown in for good measure.  I have only built a car one other time in a group build, but as it was just started, and fit the bill, I thought I might as well join the fun.  It will certainly add some color if nothing else.

Goose Ahh yes, the big block luxury sport cars of the 30's. Some of the most desired and pricy collector cars in the world. A few even had V 12 engines, years before the famous Merlin engine introduced. I guess the military theme everyone usually builds threw me off. Regardless i'm looking forward to seeing this rare automobile.

BTW...this museum has a rotating exhibit of original cars in the 1930 art deco style showroom.

http://www.welcome.to/acd.museum

It's a Duesy !

SuppressionFire:

You can't be very old if you don't know about Auburns.

http://californiaclassix.com/archive/35_Auburn_c167.html

The only thing classier was a supercharged Duesenberg

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/duesenberg-cars2.htm

Scotty Good news! Looking forward to some WIP's once you get the Lindberg kit on the go. A 1935 Auburn Speedster? Is that a raceing areoplane? Im really interisted in seeing a picture of the box for now.

supressionfire,

I went digging through my stash over the weekend, and was about to settle in on a Glencoe release, when I came to realize that the Lindberg kit on my bench is actually made in the USA.  My father-in-law purchased the kit at the Auburn-Cord-Dusenberg museum on their way home last year, and asked me to build it for him.  I started some initial work after the first of the year, and have so far painted the leather interior.  This is the Lindberg 1935 Auburn Speedster kit.  I am working on a couple of other projects in ernest right now, but I will be working on this more once I finish the priority builds.  I may still try to slip in the Glencoe kit later on.

Indeed, well Arifix has new releases coming out soon. I am looking forward to the De Havalland Mosquito in 1/24 scale. Are you interisted in building a domestic kit for this Group Build? Cool then.

'Freddie and the Fonz' Completed today! First off they were sprayed clear flat, then a red arcylic wash...

The mechanic got a panzer grea target wash on shirt, the pilot on his lacket. Mechanic also a dark green arcylic wash on coveralls which kind of turned out not as well as would of liked. eyes a hull red arcylic wash. Various shades of pink drybrushed and applied to upper surfaces of faces. Hair turned our to yellow and red / orange. Used desert tan + yellow flat to dry brush hair on both. Pencil crayons used to pick out final details on faces, black under eye brows, red for lips, pink for cheeks.

Final pencil crayon of black on leather jacket, few highlights dry brushed. ~fin

konigwolf13 i have a chart showing revell's income and amounts of units sold and i compared them to DML. revell has made a cent compared to what dragon has made. i don't know if its just me or if anyone else thinks if you don't have good income your business may collapse. take a look at aifix. that company is moving slower than ever and is not even growing (actually airfix is dieing!) Tamiya is doing fine but they are diversified as a company and branch out into different markets.

-Adam

Suppressionfire,

The cutoff will not be an issue for completing this, but I may not be able to start until after our spring refueling outage starting at the beginning of March.  I definitely have some old, made in the USA kits to select from.  I will take a look this weekend, and will let you know my initial selection.

Actually, it has been a fairly calm January weather-wise.  We had a decent storm roll through January 1st and 2nd, but since then, not much additional accumulation.  The weather definitely keeps me off my bike though, so I do the most of my building outside of "cycling season".

EliteModelling Check out Ultracast or The Resin Shipyard Both are sculpted and made in Canada, for you all down south I found Alpine Miniatures to be top quality and made in the USA. In my opinion the top three manufactures of resin cast models in the world. Ask your local hobby shop to bring in a few.

Patriots and defenders of the faith Should have figures finished in a few hours, WIP's to follow.

Jason

elitemodeling, I disagree.

Revell (of germany) are putting our some very nice releases, be it from their own or reissues of other companies kits updated. Heller have had one or two nice kits here and there and Italeri would be missed, while possibly not of the quailty of say tamiya or dragon, IME they make nice, good fittings kits of above average quality at a nice price.

While I dont think eduard will go under soon, they are a euro kit producer that would be missed as well as some of the more dubious czech companies that do produce the odd gem.

As for america, AMT=Mainline Star Wars/Star Trek Kits

While I dont go out of my way to support one company or another I found this GB a nice difference. On a quick count of my stash while my far east out weighs the rest of the world my nearly 2:1 I would miss kits from both lots just as much

just my 2c

Andrew

i find that Canadian, American models have really bad molding lines and many other visual and phisical defects. not to be unsupportive and all but i think i will stick with my beautiful DML kits. even if Airfix, revell ect disapear it would not really effect our economy, the model industry is very small compared to otheres and we would only have the better quality models avilable, the only problem with the other companies leaving is DML will take control of the market and increas prices if Tamiya does not remain a Major competition.

Kongiwolf 13 Looks great! You are the first modeler to complete a kit in this group build! I would post your accomplishment on the first page in a cool chart thingy, but lack the computer kung-foo to do so.

Anyhow I admire your dedication, efficency and problem solveing skills. Your grandpa will be proud to display your work. 

I need to refelct on whay you achieved in under three days, my mini-Me seems to be takeing longer than a 1/144 scale kit should. Like all my projects its more about scratchbuilding and making things look cool to me than timelines. The figures should be done today, first off I will spray them with clear flat as some shine issues and a good layer of protection needed before the final painting. WIP's later today

DONE

completed early this afternoon

A bit over two and half days to complete. I cant say it was a super enjoyable build but it is nice to sit back and see my first ship built. Given some of the issues with the kit if it had of been a normal build i may of just chucked it (missing parts, some part both small and large way out of mold alignment) but being a gift for someone to be built in a few days made me buckle down and do do do.

Andrew 

PS as far as Airfix kits go, I am sworn of them for the indefinite futre. Between this kit and a 1/72 Hawker Tempest that got tossed into my sons army toy box after it landing gear kept collapsing I've had enough for the present (nb I do like their 1:24 wwii series just no room any time soon)

Scotty No  cut- off, just try and show the country of origin printed on the box with a WIP' Vintage is super cool and i'm sure somewhere in the back of the stash is something that will work. The deadline for completion is October 31 2010

Must be some chilly nights up there for building models

Suppressionfire,

I wish you had started earlier, as I just put the finishing touches on a Revell Astronaut on the Moon kit (the 10" one).  I saw your group and finally took the time to read through, and what an interesting ride that was.  I like the premise of your build, and I understand that you are not asking us to stop buying our eastern kits (I have a Trumpeter 1/32 Tomcat on order right now).  Anyway, I do want to enlist in your group.  Let me take a look at what I have in my ever-growing stash that was actually made outside of Asia (with several hundred kits to choose from, I think that I will be OK).  I have some older kits in my stash (it's not a collection, it's not a collection...) so please let me know if you do have a cutoff for production dates.  I saw mention somewhere of mid-1980's, but later saw individuals mentioning kits of the 1960's.  Let me know, and I will get back with a selection.

Konigwolf13: Keep up the good work and AIRFIX will have a run on KMS Bismarck kits !

Regarding the missing Arado seaplanes for the catapult : My memories of the kit are a bit fuzzy but the phrase " two plastic blobs with stretched sprue floats on a plastic plank"  is conjured up by that experience. The Revell substitute is a better choice.

Cheers!

Bob

Spruce, small gap at both anchor bow housings, and a couple of tiny one along rest of deck/hull matings. The two hull halves were the pains.

OK a little after 48 hours..

Well after last nights update, I continued work. I got to the main guns a little after midnight. only seven barrels, nearly two hours later I had this

not to bad an effort IMO, trimmed down from old sprue. Well continuing work this morning no bloody seaplane for the catapault . think think think, well I came up with this

Well I'm one dauntless down for my carrier but its almost a perfect fit .

And here's my current level of progress

I have the AA guns to finish, the boats, anchors, some touch up painting and then a sealing coat

Andrew

Konigwolf13: KMS Bismarck anchors:

http://www.bismarck-class.dk/technicallayout/anchors/anchors.html

SupressionFire: Very nice shading and painted seams on the green coveralls!

Cheers!

Heh gang! Great progress today... mostly on the Mini-Me 262. Figures well on the way...

Set your pallet for a dark skin wash in arcylic. Flat dark brown, white and red.

Mix it up and just do one figure at a time, the mechanic is out in the sun more than pilot.

Leather! Flat black and brown enamel thinned so some primer shows on high spots. Then use remainder for area pin washes... mechanic needs to start looking like it!

Flesh highlights in.. enamal flesh, red and flat dark brown. Hit lighter areas of skin, forehead and arms. Vary mix and do one figure at a time.

Cool looking dudes... 'Freddie and the Fonz'. ha ha ha anyhow don't handle without gloves! Watch delicate ears, and the rest should be finished tomorow.  Thanks Ultracast for the excellent resin figures, it really makes it easier to have top quality sculpts.

I always liked the Bismark, i remeber watch Ballard's shown finding it when I was a kid.  I think I'll do a monogram Mig 29, the Glencoe Venom's plastic looked kinda scary to me.  It'll be a llittle bit before I get any pics up though, I've got a couple other projects on the go that are almost done and if I don't finnish them first, it'll never happen.

Konigwolf13:  Thanks for the additional photos. Any gaps between the deck around the anchor housing and bow area?

One thing you must admit, those turrets are thick, sturdy parts even if the superstructure halves don't fit well together.

I saw the Ballard Bismarck book on the book store shelves last year.

Supressionfire: thanks for the photobucket link and encouragement. I'll check out the macro capability of my point and shoot vs. the AIRFIX 1/72 kit and upload ASAP.

Heh Goose, photobucket is fairly user friendly. If I can figure it out then anyone can, the link is the bottom one out of the four choices to post on this site. The preview won't show the photos? Anyhow looking forward to your pictures. Once again I have all day to hobby out! WIP's to follow...

Spruce Goose, thanks for the info. I only have the ballard book on midway/yorktown, would love the bismarck as well.

Oh well didnt get as much done today as I would of liked. I hate to say it but this kit easily goes down as the worst kit I have ever built. Mostley down to most of the parts on all three frames are molded off kilt with each other about 1/2 a millimetre so up to a millimetre all up. This has contributed to a bit of extra work, gettings things trimmed, lined up etc.

So pics, first shows some of the wonderful fine molding

These two are just general progress

Andrew

Konigwolf13 I dug ou the old AIRFIX exploded Bismark assembly drawing and then sifted through the resources I have. Per a topview drawing in the Ballard book on the Bismarck exploration, the old Airfix kit are correct. I'll post if I can find clear anchor photos that differ from the drawing.

Re: 1960's AIRFIX Bf-109. I presume I'll need to obtain an online photo storage website account before I can post.

Thanks buddy! Between that and my mini-Me262 I had a great day ;)

Looking good Supressionfire!

Ahh vintage bagged air! The new kits just don't have the same smell. I seen the 'Made in UK' on the instructions. 48 hour maddness eh? well I hope you have lots of coffee in the house!

I broke out the paint and here is some progress photos from today's work, first up the set up.

Second the flesh color pallet on glass. Resiste the urge to use scrap plastic etc.. it has mold remover ect. I know my glass is clean. Three for the basic flesh tone, Testors enamel Flesh, red and flat dark brown. Do one figure at a time and change up ratio. Work fast and use largest brush possible, dip in thinner first. Use thinner as needed to have just enough coverage.

There flesh is on, the darker guy has been in sun longer!

Final for today, basic clothes colors. None mixed, tomorow will paint leather jacket. One thing I strive for is less is more, in that the fewer layers of paint in figures the better. Also precice resin casts by Ultracast make painting easier. The exact line between color isn't terribly important at this stage, arcylic wash will seep into recesses tomorow.

Spruce-ce Goose, whats the difference between old and new?

Will include a pic of them next time update

Andrew

Konigwolf13  Your post brought back a few forty-plus year old AIRFIX build memories.

The kit I built contained old style sailing ship anchors.

Does yours contain modern ship anchors or old style?

And my old AIRFIX 1/72 Bf-109 was wayyyyyyy inaccurate compared to the currect offering.

Thanks for posting the photos. I look forward to seeing the built up kit again.

Ok change of build

Airfix 1/600 Bismarck

And I have to get her built by Friday for my father in-laws birthday. But I can do this, I did the 48hr madness GB (Well I hope I can do this, as I'm going to use the tamiya 1/350 paint codes, not the rather basic ones from the airfix kit)

So here was the start earlier this evening

OK here is where I am at after several hours fighting. The Hill is almost complete, just a little more sanding. Then I have to clean up the deck joins and edges.

The badge works for me. Best idea I could come up with for 'domestic' was a guy whittling his own model out of a block of wood...

Basiltank Vintage kits eh? Its known the decals may need up grades. Try Leading Edge Decals

Great to see more interist in this group build, thanks everyone for sticking it out so far! My idea for a badge is the back of a Canadian wiskey bottle, anyone who partied like a rock star in the great white north late 80's to mid 90's knows someone with a fridge full of 'A proud canadain' stickers. That being said can someone whip up a badge more suited to this GB? If not I will take camera to liquor store, as I can't drink wiskey anymore

Back to the topic, post everything but what you had for lunch. Anything related to this group build and WIP's. I tend to get off topic and ramble on, my facts are from poor documentrys I saw months ago and im often corrected and scolded online for this....

vetteman42 great to hear, actually my technique for painting figures is very simple. I believe the skin colors and tone is more important than details like the color their eyes. I use washes in arcylic for the deep recesses and enamel for the highlights. I try not to spray clear flat, for a bit of shine when complete natural skin grease is brushed on from my for head. For eye brows, mustaches and tiny details pencle crayons are used.

The 1/144 Me 262 has consumed me last few days but now I feel inspired to get the figures painted up, will try and get some WIP's of them today.

Jason

Actually, SupresionFire mis-typed.

The kit I chose is the old "Red Indian" 1/32 Revell F-104. I've had the kit in storage waiting for suitable decals. The F-104 is a very basic kit by modern standards but the Leading Edge decal scheme should be far easier to finish than the 1960's metal finish CF-104 I originally wanted due to being away from the hobby for so long.

The kit should provide some scope for selective detailing and I hope to learn something about resin casting from the experience.

But first I need to rummage through a cold & damp Midwest USA garage to locate the parts.

Hmmmmm. no "shivering smilies"?

Thanks for invite Jason, I'm just trying to decide what kit to build.  The AIrfix looks about as much fun as a swit kick to the nuts, (rescued from some poor souls attic and got the mold on the box to prove it but it was free so no complaints on that end).  So basicaly it is down to the Glencoe Venom or Monogram Mig 29.  I'll give further updates as I decide.  On that note, do you want my to just PM my decission to you or just leave it here?

Thnaks,

Dan

SupressionFire I would like to keep an eye on this group I find the idea behind it interesting. I would jump in and join it but am hosting 2 groups and have entered 3 more this year. I have never tried painting figures and maybe by watching this group I will learn a thing or 2.

basiltank Welcome to the confuseing, inconsistant group build I started! All good and looking forward to your entry. The origional idea was to promote any manufacture excludeing ones based in the far east. Im sure you have heard of Dragon, Tamiya and Trumpiter. Or 'the big 3' as I have coined them. My first post is confuseing and more accurate information regarding smaller domestic manufactures is filling these pages. I have photos featureing resin kits made in Canada and USA. My entry is a 1/35 Ultracast tank crew made in Canada. Vintage is also allowed if manufactured domestically, not a re-release. Goose has a vintage produced  Monogram CF-104, I found him a set of Leading Edge Decals made in Canada, it will be the show piece of this build as its painted 'Red, white and blue'

To make it easy what ever country of origin is printed on the box. ICM, Edward and Italian kits are all welcome. Besides im sure the 'big 3' won't miss us for a few builds. Thanks and let us know if you plan on entering a kit! Figures are allowed if they require clean-up, assembly and paint. 

I hope this explanation helps

Jason 

Another manufacturer that may be controversy free: RetroKit from engalnd.  They produce resin tanks mostly, although they did make a 1/144ish martian tripod (wish i coulda bought one), but it seems to have disappeared.  In my stash I have a Mig 29 Fulcrum from monogram that still says made in usa on the box, an old Airfix Sd Kfz 250/3 Greif, and a Glecoe models de Havilland Venom fb. 4 that says plastic made in China, box and decals made in usa.  I suppose any of these would be open.  IS the GB still going ahead, and if so what are the rules/ constaints.  There doesn't seems to be anything consistent here.

I would think anything by Hobbycraft Canada would be open as well.  Other options could include Heller, cromwell models, milicast, maco (maco-germany), Matador models, Wargames South, SHQ, MMS.  MOs tof these are resin or white metal, and made in England in 1/72,  1/176, or 1/144 scale.  Just some ideas.

Yeah, when I first saw the figure I thought 'Wow what a nice chest she has'.

TREASURE CHEST that is!!!!!!!!!!!  

The figure is pewter, they replaced lead some years back.

The website is:

www.reapermini.com

Reaper Miniatures
PO Box 293175
Lewisville, TX 75029

Gamera Nice... pair, er parrot.. I mean progress! One question, is it a resin or white metal kit? Also could you put up a picture with the contact information on the back of the package? Thanks, the request is to help promote domestic manufactures.

Cool stuff guys, esp looking forward to your work on your big honking chopper Konigwolf,

Maria came the other day and I primed her and laid down the first flesh tone for her and the monkey.

For those where price is no object and enjoy resin ship building these two should be of interist.

Made in Canada eh!

Konigwolf13 That is a large beast of a chopper! Which ever entry you choose is fine with me.

Great news! Found a few more kits made in Canada and USA! They are both resin and require deeper pockets than most are willing to fork out. Found these jems in a shop in Halifax today...Never purchased any, though of you guys and hope the pictures are clear enough to see the contact information...Enjoy!

Made in the USA!

Suppression

RoG ch-53GS

RoG = Revell of Germany, so european Kit

CH-53 Sea Stallion/Super Stallion/Jolly Green Series, GS- means german aircraft, and varient

This beastie

Sprue-ce Goose Yes! a 1960 vintage CF-104 kit would really add excitement to this group build! Thanks and looking forward to WIP's Out for the day, Goose you keep everyone in line ok? Thanks again

Konigwolf13 Super duper awesome cool! Not sure what a 'RoG ch-53GS' is, am familar with the Fairley Swordfish. Yes if both were produced domestically or in Europe, basically whatever country of origin is on the box. Are certainly welcome!

*Like all facts read on the internet, mine are from memory taken off T.V. documentrys. Fortunatly for me there are many folks that are more than happy to point out inaccuracies.* ~ self dicsclaimer ~

I was of the understanding of what FastasEF/Josh said when I put my name fwd. As for what to build? If its OK I'd like to enter my RoG ch-53GS I have just started (I have primed the cockpit). If not I'll go my 1/72 Revell Fairey Swordfish

Andrew

SupressionFire : If I read correctly, the build thread is open till October and the original production of the kit is not China or Japan, then that opens the opportunities for build material a bit as even the Deals Wheels were originally issued in 1971 and the re-issues would be fair game.

Your link to the Canadian decal source reminded me that I have an old 1/32 Revell F-104 I would like to

build as a 1960s CF-104 - if I can Google a source for decals of the old national ensign in that scale.  Belcher Bits didn't make 'em back at the turn of the century, perhaps someone else does.

Spruce-ce Goose Vintage Monogram? Super cool awesome dude! Decals are kind of like paint, choose which ever you want from anywhere in the world. I paint exclusively ith Testors enamel and Tamiya arcylics. There are many after market decals available domestically, in fact just yesterday I suggested to a member decals from mikegrantdecals.com Based in Calgary Alberta, Canada. Top notch and always winner's on the contest table at the regional level, check out Western Canadian Regional Model Contest.

One more, I noticed you spelled suppression correctly then went back to my way. Thanks buddy, as it is a enigma wrapped in a mystery surrounded by a riddle..Or my inability to spell or change it. Doh!

FastasEF This is oil tradeing! Plastic is based on petrolium and my friends in the Alberta oil patch need jobs! Ha ha kidding. Thanks Josh, your insight and ability to see my intent helps clarify this group build. Don't worry the can of worms has been opened already. Besides so many are anxiously waiting for my next WIP's on the tank crew converted to be a ground crew... for my Trumpiter P-51 D

* Wouldn't the thread slip through the middle of the lock? Just wondering This one will remain open untill October 31, 2010 Get your entry's in ASAP!

And just to clarify, I in no way intended to cause a ruckus or to hurt anyone's feelings and, like previously stated, cause an uproar and have the thread locked.

Josh

All of you are looking WAY too in depth at what he's tried to create for a GB. I think, from my own perspective just by reading his original posting, his intention was perfectly simple. Between Dragon, Tamiya and Trumpeter you could pretty much build anything under the sun and more often than not 98% of GB entries are made by these three and his suggestion was to not include any of those three in whatever each individual chose to build that joined the GB. Given it changed a few times and, as far as I can tell, is excluding everything from the Asia's and is including stuff from Europe/Russia, (I'm being worldly vague.)

Personally if I were running the GB I would limit entries to manufacturers based in, or originated in, the United States/Canada, not where the plastic was melted into sprue form and plastic wrapped into boxes.

Everyone looked at it and read it from an entirely WAY too political view. Given some statements were made in an not too entirely serious politically referred manner I don't think anyone was being overly austere. Take it for what it is, your picture isn't going to be posted in every hobby shop with orders to never allow you to buy from the "big 3" again. They are plastic scale models, this isn't oil trading.

(P.S. Yay Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Subaru and sometimes Mazda! AK's are horrible even given their drug through the mud reliability and short range stopping power, YAY to the FN-FAL! (Just to chime in on other subjects and hopefully not create an uproar of epic scale modeling proportions ))

SupressionFire:

I've had a couple of late 1970s era Monogram Do-335s in storage needing a decent set of decals.

Perhaps a Monogram Do-17 or P-82 of the same era, perhaps a Martin B-1.

They're the only non-Aurora/Lindberg kits I own & am certain were produced in the USA and not China or Japan.

Unfortunately, I still don't have a means of creating decals for my Lindberg POGO so that can't be entered.

I would just build out of the box.

Too cold in the garage to re-build my HF mini-mill so I may as well glue plastic.

Question: Are decals under the same rules?

My main problem right now is locating decent decals.

I'll need to find something to fit the old Ameisenbar- preferably Watson's Whizzers.

Suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Spruce-ce Goose Ahh there is a loyal following of AK shooters, in fact the finest custom built ones are a version of the AK-74. Made in the USA. Full circle or what?

With out draging politics into a online discussion, what is your entry to this exclusive and rare group build?

SuppressionFire: Unfortunately, your comment re: difficult to find a kit is a sign of the times.

I only recently read a comment in a Patrick Sweeney book on the AK family ISBN 0-89689-678-1 regarding China's most favored status during the Clinton years and the reason sooo many AKs and AK ammo was allowed importation by a firearm hostile administration.

China didn't make anything else Americans would buy at that time and our government wanted to open us up to Chinese exports.

Things have certainly changed!

Now we're economically joined at the hip with the PRC so much so that they're the only thing keeping us from papering our walls with dollars like folks did with the Weimar Reichmark.

Spruce-ce Goose Yes there were a lot of kits produced domestic before the 80's. Size of the kit, age or subject doesn't matter. Kits from ICM, Edward and others are more than welcome. The idea is to promote kits not built by the 'Big 3' Yes I love my DML, Tamiya and Trumpiter offerings as much as everyone else, just thought a show of support for others was needed.

In all honesty I never thought this would be such a difficult group build to find a kit for.

It is my impression that the posted requirement would limit the production of the kit to no later than the mid- 1980s.

Sorry, I can not join. I am Dutch and the Netherlands has no domestic model companies to support.

ruddratt ~ Great quote form 'Kelly's heros' Pure gold. I am the last person to have word on where kits are from, just look at my first post! Doh

Eric ~ Yes I agree yet due to circumstances and distance from a decent hobby shop I happened to find the Canadian manufactured tank crew in one of many hobby supply boxes I brought here.

*Have ordered Tamiya's new Spitfire IX in glorious 1/32 scale. Found a picture of one post war in Canada doing public relations visits, all alunimum, no paint and marked of course 'PR'

Looking forward to more people signing up! Like posted before I need help! Would like to add to first post all entrys, a badge would be great ect. So anyone with strong computer kung-foo please help this group build!

Thanks

Jason

SupressionFire

Somewhere in your stash should be some kits that can be built to get this rare badge! Big or small lets build em' all!

 

I think some of the issues being brought  up are getting a bit extremist. We all have our fair share of kits in our stash that were produced in the far east. Those companies already have their money, so I doubt they really care where we build them.

BTW, where are Roden kits manufactured?

Gamera, thanks for the enlightment. I couldn't have said it better myself, well if I did include spelling errors

Now for some promised WIP's! Self explanitory and I choose Red Oxide primer as base coat in case there is bleed through on the face or hands. Not likely as all my washers over enamel are arcylic, the blending of enamels is where primer may creep through. Both figures have been modified slightly, the mechanic's arm is repositioned and the smokers cig. was removed and a hole drilled as I like to roll my own. Enjoy!

Guys, I don't think there was any intention to exclude, insult, or offend anyone. I'm sorry if anyone took it that way. But when I look at my stash probably 90% of my kits were made in China, Korea, or Japan. I certainly have nothing against these fine nations or why would I be using a giant Japanese turtle as my avatar?

I'm a big supporter of free trade. And I know the US, Canada, the UK, and western Europe as well have all switched over to a service based economy and away from a production based one. But still it just seems to me that there ought to be at least something- anything produced in the west these days.

So please don't take this as a swipe at Asia or anyone who lives in the far east. God knows I've bought plenty of their kits and will buy plenty more. 

I won't speak for SuppressionFire but I like the idea of a model olympics.

SuppressionFire: please put me down for a Reaper figure but I've pulled out and started work on- Maria Roseblade - a 54mm lady pirate figure.

Its Official! One more signed up a domestic figure kit. Deadline is October 31 2010

To be considered a kit  figures can be of any material includeing metal, resin or plastic. Require some clean-up, assembly and of course paint.

Anyone with mad computer skills is welcome to help, still need a cool badge and how do you get more text on the first post? Would like to add all modelers who signed up there.

SupressionFire ~ Ultracast resin tank crew

Gamera ~ Reaper figure(s) perhapse Sasquatch?

Konigwolf13 ~ Andrew...TBA?

Thanks for the replies, looking forward to seeing everyones work! ~ Jason

Indeed kenjitak,

Like the 'big three' domestic auto manufactures I seen a parallel to there being a 'big three' group of manufactures of model kits based in Asia. My stash is full of DML, Tamiya, and a few from Trumpiter. So obviously I am not 'bigoted or racist' Just thought some support for the smaller companies NOT based in the far east would be good. Kind of a 'buy local' mentality if you will.

0 0 0

Why are you trying to start a GB that excludes kits produced in Asia? You specify that you are trying to create more interest in domestic manufacturers, but that includes England, Canada and USA, and then add in Russia, and Czech Republic. So domestic means anything but Asian?

A GB like this could sound bigoted or racist to someone trying to figure out the logic behind this GB. 

PS down heres its Green and Gold MATE

As an aside I have

RoG

Revell

Amt/ertl

Italeri

Airfix

for european/american companies in my stash

Andrew

Arki, I think part of it (from a non american point of view, uh, whats patriotism?) is what we can create with the so called 'major' brands ie tamiya, hasegawa etc. I think It would be more fun to do a model olympics, sign up to a country/model brand if you wanted the patriotism thing.

Andrew

Ok, what exactly is the point of this GB?

As pointed out by others, the plastic industry is certainly part of a global economy.  This GB appears to have overtones of economic isolationism, which is exactly what's not needed right now.

Further, when companies from the Far East are excluded but Russia and Czech Republic are okay, this smacks of xenophobia.

Again, what exactly is the point of this GB?

Sorry I misspoke when I said 90mm. The line is 54mm, still a bit larger than 32mm-1/35 though.

http://www.reapermini.com/OnlineStore/MasterSeriesMiniatures/sku-down

Guys if I can be serious-

Reaper makes a nice line of figures out of a factory in Texas. Most of them are gaming figures (28-32mm) but they also do a great though limited line of 90mm ones. And at about $20.00 US dollars they're around a third the price of the Andrea 90mm figures.

www.reapermini.com

Supressionfire- I was joking.

Sorry

sh3tch, You are on the right track or kits!

ICM and Edward welcome. The point is to exclude all kits from the far east while supporting smaller manufactures that need recognition. My stash at home is 60% DML, 20% Tamiya, 5% Trumpiter and 15% others.  

Oh one more... the 1/35 Ultracast tank crew will become ground crew for my 1/32 Trumpiter P-51 by adding Ultracast heads with 1940's hair styles. Tanker heads will be saved for... Sherman crew?  

joelster, thanks for the encouragement!

Gamera, last I checked Korea was in the 'far east'

My little tank crew is not considered big kit, yet is all I have in stash right now thats close to the criteria set fourth. I do have kits from Hobby Craft and vintage offerings from Revell / Monogram when USA was on the lable. They are 3000 miles from Graceland er, back in Alberta. Untill me and my full stash of kits are reunited look forward to exciteing WIP's of the American tank crew, produced by Ultra Cast and made in Canada!

'Red, white and YOU' needs a cool badge and more ideas for suitable kits, aftermarket welcome! I do have idea for 'A Proud Canadian' badge. Will wait and see what else finds this group build first.

Would that include Academy?

After all you said China and Japan....

You didn't say anything about South Korea.

Ok, I'll go stand in the corner and shut up now

Excellent idea for a group build!

I was raised to NEVER buy an import car. My father told me if I ever came home with one, I had to park it in the street, lol. That being said I always buy domestic vehicles. Now, I am very much "into" the car scene, and I am fully aware that even the "Big 3" have a large majority of their components produced outside of the USA, not to mention final assembly plants.  However, the labor involved in producing goods is not the only expenditure the company has. There are decision makes in the company (management, executive), HR people, accountants, customer service, etc, etc. Most of these people are employed here (USA). The same thing can be applied to a domestic model company that has a factory in China. A much larger portion of the money coming from the purchase of a domestic kit will go into the pockets of a domestic person, that if you bought a kit from Tamiya.

Yes there are many smaller companies that design and produce their product strictly in the country of their origin and outside the Far East, but most are like this one you show-they qualify as aftermarket or limited run. Nearly all the major model companies are either based in the Far East, or are international in that while home based in whatever country for the office side of the business, have their kits manufactured in a less expensive country.

OK! I found a candidate, nothing to large (but price) or complicated. It does require some test fitting, assembly with Cyranoacrylate glue and paint. Which by definition IS a model kit, given the nature of skills involved a advanced one at that.  Oh its also 100% sculpted, produced and assembled in Canada! Somewhere in your stash should be some kits that can be built to get this rare badge! Big or small lets build em' all!

YES! I see the idea is gaining momentum, just thought supporting companies that are not based in the far east would be a good idea. Russian and Czech Republic are acceptable. Someone with knowlage of all companies not based there is welcome to take this over. If not I will let it rest as we all love our latest DML, Tamiya and Trumpiter kits so much. Origional hope was that England, Canada and USA still had kits produced within their borders...you know support our industries and jobs?

 Can't argue that small hands = small wages.and hence price$

I'm all about pride in country and where I get my stuff...but the argument stands:  Why does it matter?  My last 2 models were made in Russia (ICM) and Czech Republic (Eduard)...Why exclude China and Japan?

How's about altering the original request to;

"Kit manufactured by companies NOT based in the Far East" - similar thing & gets get round the whole "but that kit is popped in such & such a country" argument? 

The first thing that Hornby did when they took over Airfix was to move production to China.

"Bluntly, if we hadn't made that move, the Hornby business would be bust by now," says Mr Martin.

"All of our competitors were already manufacturing in China, and basically you can't compete with the lower labour rates that are available there."

Didn't Monogram move to Mexico?

I think it's a good idea, but care must be taken. I have bought Revell/Monogram kits that were clearly marked "Made in China"