Official Natural Metal Finish Group Build II

Hmmm,... Well ofcourse i would share the build of my yellow wing prewar Wildcat with you guys. Just wasn't sure if our host would allow it with the B17 still on the list...

Have to admit though that i've been putting in some hours during the weekend and the pit and engine are just about finished... I would say... 20% finished...?

Ok Randy, write me up for one prewar F4F. I will make some pics of what i have shortly. Thanks for the warm support guys.

Richard

simpilot34

Dobby that is a nice lil build you have there!!! Is that the Academy 1/72?

simpilot - Thanks! It's the Revell 1/48 AT-6/SNJ Trainer. vetteman is starting his build of the same kit so you may be seeing many more photos...

Dobby that is a nice lil build you have there!!! Is that the Academy 1/72?

vetteman42

Nicefit thank you for the write up on the AT-6 kit I printed it out and have the notes in the box. I did do some trimming on it today and should be ready to start in on Monday or Tuesday. I hope the build goes relatively fast, I really want to try those paints and get moving on the F-15

vetteman - You're welcome. Below is the latest addition to my notes. I'm almost at a standstill right now, so you might pass me! I'm waiting on my airbrush to be returned - hopefully by mid-week - and I'm waiting on a Flex-I-File I ordered to arrive in the mail. I ordered it directly from flex-i-file.com on 6/30 and it has still not arrived. Sent them an email this morning to find out why. In the meantime, I think I'll mask and install the canopy.

When I first looked at this kit, I said "A trainer. How boring.", but I've rather enjoyed the build. lol

3. Not a bad fit, but not a great fit either, for the wings and stabilizers to the fuselage. #1: For the wings, the starboard side is about 1mm forward. I'm not sure what caused that. #2: For the stabilizers, the port side has a 1mm underside gap. Sanding the attachment points of both stabilizers might have solved that problem. #3: The top and bottom leading edge of the starboard wing are not aligned properly. They must have shifted slightly after I applied the clamps. Spending a little more time during the dry-fit would have alleviated #1-2. #3 was simply a mistake.

Nicefit thank you for the write up on the AT-6 kit I printed it out and have the notes in the box. I did do some trimming on it today and should be ready to start in on Monday or Tuesday. I hope the build goes relatively fast, I really want to try those paints and get moving on the F-15

Jmabx yes I will be using Talon paints for the AT-6, and if that works out as I hope it will I may be using them for the Streak Eagle

Julez72 That cockpit looks spot on man I reallu like the seat belts and love the ejection seat pull straps, can you tell I am not a jet guy Tis gonna be one nice looking Mirage for sure.

Kermit you can not go and build a yellow wing off line, thats no fair Ya do know a yellow wing Wildcat with a NMF fuselage would work here dont cha

NiceFit thanks for the link(have added it to my faves), will drop them a line or just send it in. I will in fact include a note that I have replaced a few parts and still same problem of pulsating, if you guys can find the problem would you please tell me what it is lol!!!

I hope(strong word there) I can get in on this build before times up in May!!! I want to foil something!!!! Got a few to choose from so will let you guys know when the time comes, whenever that may be!! Sigh!!!

kermit - I've got a neighbor that works at Goodyear car repair shop. I'll ask him about the machine you describe. Thanks for mentioning it. In the meantime, I'll practice smiling a lot....        

Regarding Alclad colors, my LHS doesn't carry much either so I ordered mine from Squadron. I used the Aluminum and Dark Aluminum on my Mustang and was happy with the combination. I can't advise you on the other colors you mention, other than you can see some paint chips at Alclad's website. This reminds me, I believe I need to order some Polished Aluminum for my Texan.

simpilot, julez - You may have already found it, but here's information about the Badger airbrush service program: Badger Service/Support. I'm looking forward to getting my airbrush back early this week.

julez - I like that cockpit. Nice job! Ain't this a great hobby?

Thanks Richard, the straps are Eduard colored, i ordered the set for the Eduard mirage and trimmed it to fit the Hobbyboss one....It's not a bad kit although i had some fit issues with the intakes...

I'm not sure about the darkened aluminum and dull aluminum, i've always used white aluminum and duraluminum...I have been playing around a little with MM aluminum plate which is a buffing matalizer with some success but i'm not willing to use it as a base colour yet but i think with a little more experimenting i eventually will....

Julez,

Great work sofar! What are the straps made of? Tape? Looks good my friend.

The wildcat... Must say i was very eager to start on it so the pit is mostly finished by now. Was planning on building it offline because of my pending B17 but i just can't get my mind set to it...

A little question now that i'm here to the Alclad users:

The hobbyshop i purchase most of my goodies from has Alclad but their main colors have been sold out for months now (aluminium, polished aluminium and chrome).

They do have "darkened aluminium" and "dull aluminium". Do you think these shades are useful for a NMF? Also there is a shop that has " chrome for lexan" but would that also work on styrene?

Richard

Hey i have WIP pics.....still have a bit to do before paint but i'm getting there...

Sim let us know how you go with Badger, i have a 175 thats missing it's spring...I use my old faithfull Omni 4000 for everything because i prefer the gravity feed over the siphon but i would like to give my old badger to my boy for his 10th birthday....

Richard, go the Wildcat buddy, something that your familiar with for a stress free fun build after the Mustang.....

NiceFit that is some really incouraging news about Badger!!!!! I have an old 200 that pulsates for no apparent rewason and would really like to get it repaired. It's my very first AB and want to keep it. I liken Badgers to Zippo lighters, no matter how old, they still work. The very first Zippo is in the museum in PA and yes, it still works. Will drop them a line and see how much postage for me from down under. Thanks for that!!!

Thank you all so much for your comments. Lemme be honest by saying that i probably would have ended up hiding this model out of view a long time ago if i wasn't building it for this GB... Glad you guys still liked it.

Julez,

Whats next.... Thats a hard question really. I have that Mig i wanna foil, and a very sweet prewar Wildcat. (couldnt help myself and just sprayed a teenie weenie bit of green on some parts...)

But i really should finish up the B17 too... Haven't had the stomach yet to work on such a big project with that very demanding P51 in the way.

Nicefit,

Somebody once gave me the tip to go to a better car repair shop when your AB is clogged. Some of them have a machine they use to clean automotive parts with that vibrate. Would give you a proper name for it if i knew what they were called in english... We just call em "vibrating baths" if i translate it from dutch...

 Works really good on airbrushes too if you fill it up with thinnesr and put it inthere for 15 minutes. Hey, if you smile alot they might let you use it for free Even on well maintained airbrushes you will see that there is a good amount of goo coming out.

Vetteman,

Really REALLY looking forward to see you paint your texan Like what has been said before you really done a great job on your racers so i am absolutely convinced you'll do just as great with the Talon paints!

Richard

I'm looking forward too seeing some pics of these Texans

kermit - Nice save on your F-51. I can relate to your experience with your build as i went through the same frustration with my P-51D. We're both glad those builds are done, aren't we? I'm already applying what I learned from that experience to my current AT-6 project.

vetteman - Speaking of the AT-6, here are some of my notes you might find useful. Probably nothing too informative but I thought I share nonetheless. Today i glued the wings together. I should have my airbrush returned to me (see below) soon and can then proceed further. I'm looking forward to seeing posts about your build.

AT-6 Texan Notes

1. When dryfitting all the parts involved in Fuselage Assembly (Step #3) I noticed that the fore, topside did not fit particularly well. My remedy was to remove the front instrument panel and sand some of the port and starboard ends. I also sanded off about 1/2 of the nodules on the backside of the instrument panel. Since it slides in easily, I'll reinstall the instrument panel once the fuselage is glued together.

2. The correct fit of the Nose Panel (#11) is dependent on the cockpit cage being flush with the upper part of the fuselage. The forward, starboard side of the cockpit cage was raised up a bit and needed to be sanded down. Not sure why this was necessary as the cage was mounted properly in fuselage (or at least I think so!).

All - I have to put in a plug in for Badger Airbrush company. I managed to plug up the "Shell" of my airbrush. (I know how it happened - rookie mistakes.) It was hard to insert the needle and often hard to remove the needle. I debated whether I should send it in or not, but in the end decided to send it in. All I had to pay was shipping - $5.15. They will professionally clean it and send it back. It would have cost me that much to drive to my LHS and buy airbrush cleaner. (I will pick up airbrush cleaner on my next trip to the LHS so I can safely clean the airbrush myself.) Anyway, I thought this was a nice service provided by Badger. Passing it on....

Boy, have I missed alot here!

OWL - SC and the others offer up some great advice about laying down paint. Keep at it and practice, practice, practice! BTW... the Mirage looks great!

Rob - Oh boy... that's a pretty Polly you've got there! Looks amazing and I can't wait to see her buttoned up!

B17 - Nice looking F-6B! I've got an AM A-36A that I need to get built one of these days.

Kermit - Great build on that F-51! I can't see the decal troubles from where I'm sitting... no harm, no foul! I've never built the Tamiya kit but I really love the Hasegawa P-51 in 1/48!

Randy - Looking forward to seeing you paint a NMF bird. After seeing the way you dressed up that Miss America P-51, I'm sure you'll have no trouble with a NMF paint! Did you say you will be trying Talon paints? 

Kermit it seems in this hobby that the ones you have to fight from beginning to end turn out to be the best. What Simpilot34 said above states my thoughts, very very well done my friend I will get your build posted on the front page shortly.

On a side note Richard I will be starting my FIRST PAINTED thats painted mind you NMF next week as my little racer is about finished.

Richard, even with all the trials and tribulations you've had on this build, I must say that is a jam up job!!!!! You have proven what I believe to be two of modellings biggest virtues, patience(although tested) and persistance (or stubbornness to not let the plastic win) Well Done mate!!!

Richard, Buddy she looks great, well done You sound like your releived to have it done...So whats next??????

Thats a nice little stang you have there kermit. I have been lucky with the decals in my older kits. Glad to see you were sble to save them and get it done. It should make a nice addition to you collection.

Soulcrusher

Ok, i am calling this F-51 "done". Tried to get that decal in shape but in the end it broke off even more and my attempt at painting didn't really work out.... But luckily the other side however looks fine so i will (have to) display it from that side.

Like Vetteman said the liquid decal film makes the decals get off of the sheet a bit harder but the stuff really does work! You just have to trim the decals more like you would with custom printing jobs... After that it behaves just like an academy decal... soak soak soak and let it sit for a minute before applying it.

Anyways. Building this model has been problematic eversince i started it so i admit i'm happy it's offa my bench. Sit back...catch your breath...learn your lessons and move on i guess LOL:

Don't get me wrong, this was a great kit to build. Construction phase was a breeze. Still liked the hasegawa one that little bit better though.

Thanks for watching and thank you guys even more for your support. Appreciate it alot

Richard

WOW! thank you all for your quick replies!!!  I got a pretty good idea of what I need to do now. these will be my first invasion stripes, so I hope it all goes well!

Good luck on the mustang Kermit!

OWL

Ok, whew... managed to get the decalling done just now... talking about holding your breath lol.

Apart from that first noseart decal i did break up the red trim along the anti glare panel and the red fuselage band so i will paint those on. Also i will attempt to use paint to make that noseart text readable again. Doesn't look that hard...

Pics to come soon, i'm back to the ICU/ hobby table

Richard

For invasion stripes, I put them on before the base coats.  I make a line with tape marking where the invasion stripes will begin closest to the fuselodge (or if on the fuselodge the forward most stripe).  Make sure this tape is straight, has it becomes a guide for all the others.  Then I airbrush white past where the last stripe is to be.  You will then need to figure out how wide the stripes are suppose to be.  This is the tricky part, cause every aricraft had different sized stripes.  When dry (24hrs), I use the tape line I applied before has a guide to mask the first white stripe.  Using other piece of tape the correct width I lie this down next to the tape covering the first white stripe.  Then another correct sized width tape is lied down using the second piece of tape as a guide.  Next move the second piece of tape that was covering where the first black stripe is to go and move it to the other side of the new tape mask (covering the second white stripe).  A new correct width sized tape is then put on using the tape over the second black stripe has a guide.  If you sprayed enough white, you should have some extra white paint showing past the last stripe.  Remember to remove the tape covering the second black stripe.  Air brush the black.  Let dry 24hrs, then cover the black stripes, leaving the mask over the white.  Did you remember to remove the tape used to start the stripes?  You may or may not want to remove the extra white, the choice is yours.

Then I would airbrush the model has if the aircraft didn't have invasion stripes.

You may have to modify this procedure, since you already got the base coat on.  That's how I do it.  Here's the results on this F-6B:

Hello Owl,

I posted a pic last week of the P-51 I am doing- and I painted invasion stripes, so far only on the bottom of the wings. Mask off an area about 5cm wide. I also temporarily glued the landing gear covers with white glue so they will be painted as well. Paint it with several thin coats of white until completely covered. I let it cure for a good day or two, then mask off the two black stripes, so that each stripe is about 1cm wide. I used a decal from another P-51 to get these measurements. Make sure that your masking tape has alot of the stickiness reduced- I stick it to my nose or forehead repeatedly to pick up some oils (I do keep my face clean, though!) and it really reduces the stickiness-all to avoid pulling off the white coat. Then several light coats of black.

Good luck!

Rob

OWL - If you are a FSM subscriber, there is an article on painting identification (invasion) stripes, here is the link (make sure you login first or link wont work, heck, it may not work anyways, but go to  the HOW TO articles section and search for IDENTIFICATION stripes):

http://www.finescale.com/How%20To/Articles/2007/02/Painting%20identification%20stripes.aspx

I have never done it exactly as they described, I only painted invasion stripes once, and I simply painted the white first, left to cure for a few days, then mask, paint  the black. The hardest part was the masking over the leading edges and keeping the tape straight (and therfore, the stripes straight!).

Never sprayed invasion stripes but i have done red and white striped tails... My best advice would be to spray the whole area white, wait til it has cured, future it, let it cure again and then mask the white stripes and spray your black color. I think it would be harder to do the other way round.

Best of luck to you Owl

Richard (who is hoping to finalize his decalling today)

IVe given the enamels 4 days to cure, and have put a protective coate of Future on my mustang. I have some masking to do for my new scheme I chose. And have to admit, Im pretty heavy-handed!

anybody have some tips on Invasion stripes? 

OWL

Wow,...

First Vetteman with his spare LG and now T-bolt with his offer of sending me his spare decals....

I cannot begin to express my gratitude and amazement at how helpful the GB's members are. You guys are just great and i thank each and everyone of you for your willingness to help me out.

People from my particular region however are known for being as stubborn as an #ss. I would like to honour that tradition and respectfully and humbly decline your offers. I just started the decalling again with my treated decals and sofar it is going as planned. The decals, like vetteman said don't come off the paper that easily but it does work.... Amazing stuff this liquid decal film. Sofar i have only used it for coating custom made decals but these old and very fragile decals do respond like i want them to as of now...

Keep your fingers crossed boys. I fully intend to nail this SOB.....

Richard