Mighty 8th GB 1-Nov-2010 - 31-Oct-2011

its not working

You have to host photos on a hosting site. Most people use photobucket. Once loaded on there copy the url. Then in the sig box theres a icon that look like a film strip. Select that and paiste the url. Its the same as for putting photos into a post.

ok so im kinda new so im still adjusting. How do you put the GB pics for your profile next to your signature.

Scorpiomikey

That bluenose looks awesome OWL. im just wondering, is the flash washing the blue out a bit? Seems a bit pale to me.

The early bluenosers were painted in PRU blue, so it's supposed to be pale. 

Not sure when they switched to the darker blue, but I know it was sometime in '44.

That bluenose looks awesome OWL. im just wondering, is the flash washing the blue out a bit? Seems a bit pale to me.

OWL, you have done a wonderful job on that Mustang

Nice, another Norfolk aircraft. My favorite.

its 1/48. The one i have selected in from the 93rd bomb group. Here is a link to see it if you want.

http://www.scalehobbyist.com/manufacturers/Revell_Monogram/Model_Aircraft/RMX00005625/product.php?s=0&t=0&pg=1&ppp=24&sb=price&so=a&e=0&era=6&man=rmx

Good to have another Liberator on board. What scale and Bomb Group is it.

sign me up! Ill do the monogram liberator. Ill post pics. as i build it. It has decals for an aircraft in the 8th so it will work.

CallSignOWL

"Lambie II" was flown by Lt. Col John C. Meyers; 1944, Bodney, England. He became deputy commander of the 352nd Fighter group and the fourth highest scoring American ace in Europe with 24 confirmed air-to-air victories and 13 destroyed on the ground. John C. Meyers was eventually promoted to General and became commander in chief of the Strategic Air Command (SAC) here at Offutt AFB, Nebraska. 

This build carried a bit of personal connection, both my Grandfather and Father were stationed at Offutt AFB.

 

the real Lambie:

and my Lambie:

 

Great job, OWL.  Like the B&W rendition.  I'm also doing a Bodney B@$tard  , Karl Waldron's P-51D Goliath from the 487th FS.  You've set the bar pretty high, so the pressure is on

Don

But you did have to start this build from the beginging a second time. It is nice to get a build off the bench and can't wait to see Joe in all its glory.

Owl - Lambie II looks fantasic! Meyer is one of my favorite pilots - still haven't made up my mind if I'm going to do his or Brown's -51D first.

Tons of incremental progress on Hairless Joe last night. Installed and painted the bomb clamps on the wing pylons. Accidentally dropped one of them in a small pool of CA (guess it's a good lesson - bring the mountain to Mohammed, not the other way around!), but a quick dunk in lacquer thinner and scraping with an xacto cleaned it up. Mostly. Also got the gear doors installed, the main shaft of the pitot tube painted, and the blast tube openings dabbed with drops of gunmetal (it's hard to get an airbrush down in there, so they were still brass...). Also put on the final clear coat - Future cut with a bit of Tamiya flat base for a semi-gloss finish.

I'm hoping to put this one to rest tonight. It's been an absolute blast of a build, but I'll be glad to have one moving off the bench. I can't believe it's been more than two months since I finished a build. 

And one for you. Just before xmas i went to the old Airfiled at Bodney. At the front gate of the Army base there is a memorial to the 352nd.

WOW, nice build i wasn't expecting that so soon.I am going to use the black and white one for the front page.

Thanks for joining.

"Lambie II" was flown by Lt. Col John C. Meyers; 1944, Bodney, England. He became deputy commander of the 352nd Fighter group and the fourth highest scoring American ace in Europe with 24 confirmed air-to-air victories and 13 destroyed on the ground. John C. Meyers was eventually promoted to General and became commander in chief of the Strategic Air Command (SAC) here at Offutt AFB, Nebraska. 

This build carried a bit of personal connection, both my Grandfather and Father were stationed at Offutt AFB.

the real Lambie:

and my Lambie:

here is the contrast from pictures inside vs outside. The inside pictures show more of the different hues in the foil, but the outside pics are just so shiny!

Thanks for looking!

OWL

I wasn't sure if the thinner would ruin Alclad as it does enamel. I do like the pro modeller wash though. Been useing it on my last few kits, love the stuff.

Bish

I was just woundering if it would work on an NMF, you don't tend to see those on armour. Then i remembered one of your wing under sides is NMF. Do you do it on that as well.

Haven't done it on the underside. I'm planning to use some ProModeller wash down there, since I know it'll come up easily. Need to test the wash on a NMF paint mule first. Though I DID test it on my destroyed P-38, which was primed in Tamiya AS-12, and it looked pretty solid. 

I was just woundering if it would work on an NMF, you don't tend to see those on armour. Then i remembered one of your wing under sides is NMF. Do you do it on that as well.

Ye, i agree. I will give it a try on my up coming Ju 87 G as well, see how it comes out as that is rather dark. I agree about North Africa, have to do a bit of research on that one.

Bish

Ye, the same as with armour except an armour wash is normally thicker. I might just give that a try on my B-17, just make sure its very thin. That is looking damn bloody good mate.

One thing i have been woundering about is how to get a good finish to light coloured areas, especially yellow. This been common on alot of German aircraft. But that wash has given the perfect look to the tail, and the red cowling as well.

Yeah, I tried this technique out on the La-5 I built for Ostfront...I think the green/black was way too "strong" for the wash to do much, but it's worked out well in this case. Definitely think I'll be adding it to my stable for ETO aircraft going forward...not as sure about North Africa...maybe something lighter than raw umber for that sand-tarnished look. 

Ye, the same as with armour except an armour wash is normally thicker. I might just give that a try on my B-17, just make sure its very thin. That is looking damn bloody good mate.

One thing i have been woundering about is how to get a good finish to light coloured areas, especially yellow. This been common on alot of German aircraft. But that wash has given the perfect look to the tail, and the red cowling as well.

Bish

Doogs Did you do this wash the same way as you would for armour. By applying the wash then leaving it for a while then removing with thinner.

Never done it for armor (that's coming up soon with my Sherman), but I just brushed it on with a wide, flat brush and then let it dry. It's so thin and the Mona Lisa thinner spreads so easily that there's no danger of brush strokes or anything showing through.

I'm at my third application now and think it's about where I want it. Now I just need to let it dry out for another day or so, then on to the final details. Hopefully I'll be calling Hairless Joe done by the end of the week!

CallSignOWL

Scorpiomikey: Why did you find the foil so scary? 

 

OWL

Oh i never said i found it scary, It drove me to the brink of insanity. I did a 1:72 F-100. By the end of it i had a few new twitches.

Doogs Did you do this wash the same way as you would for armour. By applying the wash then leaving it for a while then removing with thinner.

Thanks for the tip OWl i will look into that.

Thanks checkmate. I will measure the windows on a B-24 when i get the chance. Looking forward to seeing the decals going on.

Thanks, Bish.

I'm not sure which markings I'll put on this plane.  The paint schemes are about the same for each--only "Gal Sal" had noticeably darker OD applied around the nose gun positions, and possiblly the waist guns--probably indicating that these were later field modifications.

As for the Squadron waist windows, they measure 10 X 14/15mm (h X l).  Again, these are the ones manufactured for use with the Hasegawa kits, not the Academy kits.  I hope they work for you.

the foil? it doesnt. I coat it in future. That helps seal in the edges too, so they dont lift so easily

Thanks for the tip. That might be why i thought it would be to thick, i will deffianlty look into it further. How does it take to painting.

Bish

O right, i would have thought it would have been to thick. I imagined it was some special foil just for modelling. I have a few old broken kits in the shed. I think i might read up on this and give it a try on an old kit.  Can't hurt to try it.

just make sure the foil you get is not the heavy duty stuff. That would be too thick and hard to work with. The thinnest foil works best. Normally that makes it the cheapest too!