Mighty 8th GB 1-Nov-2010 - 31-Oct-2011

satch_ip

 

redraider56:

 

Got some more work done on the Mustangs front office today.  Im finishing up painting the floor-fuel tank-radio and have a wash drying on the seat.  I dont have the sidewalls sprayed yet though; Im gonna do the interior of the P-47 the same color so Im gonna wait until I have all those interior parts sorted out and then just save the trouble and spray both interiors at the same time

 

 

Unless you are building a P-47G built in the Curtiss factory, the interior color won't be the same as the Mustang.  Republic used their own color for the interiors called dull dark green.  Also the innards were painted zc yellow.  Curtiss used zc green for their interiors.

This. Also, based against reference photos I've got, Model Master Euro I Dark Green is a pretty great match for DDG:

Tamiya recommends XF-5, but I don't know, it's way too...primary green for my taste.

redraider56

Got some more work done on the Mustangs front office today.  Im finishing up painting the floor-fuel tank-radio and have a wash drying on the seat.  I dont have the sidewalls sprayed yet though; Im gonna do the interior of the P-47 the same color so Im gonna wait until I have all those interior parts sorted out and then just save the trouble and spray both interiors at the same time

Unless you are building a P-47G built in the Curtiss factory, the interior color won't be the same as the Mustang.  Republic used their own color for the interiors called dull dark green.  Also the innards were painted zc yellow.  Curtiss used zc green for their interiors.

That will be the differance. I just undercoated with Humbrol black gloss enamel before adding the Alclad when i did my recent NMF build. Yours has come up very shiny and looks great.,

Thanks red and Bish! Yep, it's Alclad Airframe Aluminum. 

Not quite sure how I managed the results I did. Especially after accidentally slopping medium sea gray all over that wing (thankfully it wiped up). Just...Mr. Surfacer 1200, Tamiya X-1 + Tamiya clear + Mr. Leveling thinner, and then the alclad...

red that makes sense for the cockpits. And ye, that NMF wing does look very nice. If thats Alclad, i would love to know how you get that finish Doogs

Doogs....is that base layer on the port wing airframe aluminum?  Im thinking I might go with that for the P-51...

Got some more work done on the Mustangs front office today.  Im finishing up painting the floor-fuel tank-radio and have a wash drying on the seat.  I dont have the sidewalls sprayed yet though; Im gonna do the interior of the P-47 the same color so Im gonna wait until I have all those interior parts sorted out and then just save the trouble and spray both interiors at the same time

Sure, why not. I think i have seen this. Nothing say we can't have a bit of fun along the way.

Hey bish, can i add another build to my list? I just picked up a 352nd mustang...sorta lol. Its the hasegawa egg plane. Is that ok?

First stage of the NMF port wing is done!

Also got a bunch of fiddly things done tonight - painted the pancake tank, resprayed the gear door insides with Tamiya XF-4, and decaled the prop. After fighting with the Tamiya decals last night on the bombs (I swear they're printed on transparency paper...what the hell?), I decided to use the prop stencils from the Aeromaster sheet - WOW. What a difference. I'll post pics once they're dried and sealed.

Looking forward to patchworking the NMF panels with different shades of Alclad tomorrow!

Little J

Mr. Doogs,  how do you get your props and wheels looking so perfect ?  It just baffles me.

Thanks! Can't take too much credit for the wheels - Eduard masks on the NMF side, and Tamiya does the hubs separately on the other, so it was basically a matter of airbrushing everything and then stick it together. Alclad Duraluminum and Model Master Guards Red for the hubs, Tamiya NATO Black for the wheels. Still have to scuff 'em up, but that's down the road a ways.

The prop is kind of a happy coincidence of the hub needing to be a really bright natural metal. Started by priming, then painting the tips MM Deep Yellow, followed by Tamiya X-1 black. Taped off the blades and painted the spinner cap Alclad Airframe Aluminum, then brushpainted the hub MM Aluminum.

Mr. Doogs,  how do you get your props and wheels looking so perfect ?  It just baffles me.

ww2psycho  Thats one of the problems i ahve with my current AB, a bottom fed Badger 150. As i am moving around the model i am always worrying about paint coming out of the cup. Plus it can get in the way when i want to get really close..

Clebode  Thanks, i will put that on the front page when i get home next weekend as i will be certain of a decent conection. I hope when i do my Princess that i can do it equal justice. Thanks for joining the GB, and for our first completed bomber.

Bish-Here is another reshoot with the shadows less contrasty.

ww2psycho--Some AB makes have covers for the paint cups or you can use tape or para film.  A cover keeps the paint from drying out.  There is nothing like a good gravity feed AB for fine free hand work.

Bish--Here is the reshoot of the B-24:

I have a paasche with a gravity fed cup but never used it yet. I feel like i'm going to get very messy with it. I seem to move the airbrush around a lot. I'll have to give it a try sometime.

Bish

Doogs That airbrush looks very nice. I want to get a gravity fed brush, am thinking about the Badger 100. On my to buy list for May.

I'd never used a gravity feed until this past summer...but man what a difference! Seems a lot easier to dial in the right pressure, and they seem to suck a lot less paint.

Bish

... The top pic is a bit blurred. Have you got a clearer one of the full aircraft.

Bish-I'll reshoot the picture using my tripod for stability.  I think the blur is from camera shake.  Thanks for the tip on the ammo belts.  I'll give it a go on one still on the fret,

The problem with the chutes is bending them to get them in the right position. I ending up just hanging mine down, waiting for the crew to climb aboard and load the guns.

I started useing Pro Modeller washes a few kits back. I love em for panel lines and light staining. And ye, they are idiot proof, you can't go wrong. I run mine down the panel lines and once dry run a damp cotton bud across them to remove excess. I use Dark Dirt for the light coloured areas and Black for darker areas.

Doogs That airbrush looks very nice. I want to get a gravity fed brush, am thinking about the Badger 100. On my to buy list for May.

Your Lib looks nice.  The problem  you had with the ammo belts, is it because you did not use a PE bending tool or  was it the bending of the chutes to put them in position?  I read somewhere if you put wire along  the inside corners of the ammo chutes they will not  kink.  Have any of you ever used the Promodeller  washes ?  They look pretty much idiot proof and wonder if they are worth the price.

Clebode - apart from that one national insignia the B-24 looks good from here! Well done!

Got the port wing prepped last night Tamiya X-1 + Clear Gloss thinned with Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner...NMF is going to start going on tonight!

In other news, I scored a Grex Tritium TG2 for Christmas...

Haven't fired it up yet, but looking forward to trying out that .2mm nozzle on the freehand camo!

That looks well sweet despite your problems. I found those Eduard PE belts tricky, but as they were only on the waiste guns, you can't really see them anyway. I put my weight under the top turret, more space there. Your join between the front clear fuselage section and the rear bit is alot better than mine was. I will try and add your pic to front page as soon as i get a decent connection. The top pic is a bit blurred. Have you got a clearer one of the full aircraft.

Hi All:

I am calling the B24-D "Princess" finished.    There are several serious flaws but there is nothing to be done to fix them.    The major flaws are:

No nose wheel gear door-I had to use half the well for weight.  According to my research the doors were inside the well when open so you do not notice when she's on her wheels.

CA staining of the cockpit windos and the nav dome.

Major damage to the decals from masking tape.  I am calling it wear.

No ammo feed belts for the .50s.  I couldn't figure out how to bend the PE without kinks. 

Here are rhe photos:

DoogsATX

redraider - What did you use for the wiring? Love the materials and look. Way better than I've ever been able to manage...

For the braided ones I just doubled up and twisted together some small gauge wire.  I dont know how fine of gauge, I just found a big spool of it in one of my dad's old model railroad boxes.  For the solid silver one I just used the wire from a twist tie   

redraider - What did you use for the wiring? Love the materials and look. Way better than I've ever been able to manage...

jbrady - the IP does look nice! Yeah, it gets a bit buried in the -B. Nowhere near as bad as some other aircraft that spring to mind (Wildcat, Dauntless...).

Been held up a bit by humidity and rain. Planning to set down the black base for the wing tonight. But I've been making progress on some smaller bits:

I just love Eduards instrument panels... problem is when it's buttoned up you can't see it.

Just a last bit of progress before Christmas.  I got the instrument panel done and got all the painting done on the TD seat before I add a wash and flat coat

sorry if it's a bit dusty

O ye, i love AM. Nice to get to basics now and again.One thing i liked about the P.1101. Speaking of which, time to get that finished.

And Happy Holidays to you guys to.

Bish

... somtimes i think i go over the top with AM goodies when you can get a great result by just adding a nice paint job.

Yes, but the AM resin set that Red is using looks to have much greater detail than the Monogram.  Probably more accurate as well.  I usually enjoy playing with AM goodies, but just decided to go bare bones with this build. 

Have a happy holiday.

Don

Red Nice wiring work. Good job on that.

Don That cockpit is looking great. somtimes i think i go over the top with AM goodies when you can get a great result by just adding a nice paint job.