Way Too Many Props GB April 18, 2011 - Extended to July 28, 2012

Hercmech

Doogs: That window is looking good. I have that kit and just picked up the True Detail cockpit set...almost as much as the kit LOL and when I opened the kit I found the kit detail is almost as good.  What do you mean by the paint window then mask are?

Yeah the TD cockpit set was announced literally the day after I closed the fuselage! But overall I'm actually rather "meh" on True Details stuff. It's an improvement on the very old kits, but I don't think it holds up well against modern molds (or competition - the Vector prop set is worlds better).

As far as the window...I've already laid down the intermediate blue, and am going to mask close to the windows, then prime and paint. 

Speaking of...the last big hurdle before primer has been taken care of:

I also checked my mail today and found the D-Mold bomb door waiting for me! It's like just-in-time manufacturing! Going to leave it off until close to the end so I can get in to put in the astrodome and ensure the wings go in right, but it'll be nice to ensure fit and get it primed along with everything else.

Lovely pit Trey, shows what can be done in the true scale.

And Vance is right, it does look a bit like the bridge of a starship.Do you have any idea what the position of the pedastal is.

Trouble, nice paint job on the Mossie.

Hey All,

I`m still pluggin` away at my two kits. Painted the Mosquito and gave the topside 2 coats of Future. I masked a little spot on the bottom and wound up ripping a giant piece of paint off with the tape.... Forgot I sprayed the fuse with aluminum metalizer and the white didn`t stick so good. If this was any other aircraft without a wooden fuse, that could`ve been a good thing weathering-wise....

...shiny...

 

I`ll post a pic of my little faux pas with the underside after the Future dries. I already sprayed over the spot but I think I`ll have to sand it down a bit to blend in the fix. Gonna decal her up once all is dry...more pix soon. Thanks for looking! comments / critiques are welcome.

Len

Nice work going on here guys!  Sorry I haven't had any progress on the Hawkeye.   My usual model building time is after work at about 1 am.  But lately I have been really tired and unmotivated..  I hope to get the ball rolling here soon.

Trey: That cockpit is crazy looking. Awesome but crazy

Doogs: That window is looking good. I have that kit and just picked up the True Detail cockpit set...almost as much as the kit LOL and when I opened the kit I found the kit detail is almost as good.  What do you mean by the paint window then mask are?

VanceCrozier

TREYZX10R:

Thanks B17Pilot! I got the office done. I remember now why I quit doing 72nd scale

 

That could be the bridge of a Federation Starship...

  ditto!! Very nice !

TREYZX10R

Thanks B17Pilot! I got the office done. I remember now why I quit doing 72nd scale

That could be the bridge of a Federation Starship...

Thanks B17Pilot! I got the office done. I remember now why I quit doing 72nd scale

That sounds about right.  Didn't think there was a 1/48 kit of it.  Got the front page updated!

B17Pilot,sorry my mistake its 1/72 scale . P38 is correct its the AMT/Ertle. Yea 1/48 would be huge!!!! Its taxing my work bench at this size lol.

dry fit looks good

getting the office started(not that you'll see much of it when its done)

 

B17Pilot

TREYZX10R:

Would like to add a 1/48 Northrop XB-35 if thats cool? 32 Prop blades on this unit ;)!

 

1/48! WOW that's going to be big!  What's the kit make?  I'll add it to the list.

should be an AMT kit.. if I ever get my rearend in gear ,, I'm supposed tobe doing the same kit.. lol

TREYZX10R

Would like to add a 1/48 Northrop XB-35 if thats cool? 32 Prop blades on this unit ;)!

1/48! WOW that's going to be big!  What's the kit make?  I'll add it to the list.

TREYZX10R

Doogs,not envying you on the mask job,looks like you've got it well in hand tho!

This one's not so bad. Apart from the curvy corners everything's flat, and not too many acute angles to battle, either. Even on the aft belly windows. Curved corners, bit straight sides. Now I just need a night when my eyes aren't dead tired!

Doogs,not envying you on the mask job,looks like you've got it well in hand tho!

B17Pilot great looking engines and the color choice looks spot on to me.

Would like to add a 1/48 Northrop XB-35 if thats cool? 32 Prop blades on this unit ;)!

Thanks, Doogs!  I've been distracted myself trying to finish up a P-47 for the NMFIII build.  Haven't done much on the PV-1 since the engines.  Nice idea on the canopy!

Damn, i lost track with this GB. Some very nice completed builds on the front page.

Interesting idea on masking those corners. I often have trouble getting the scapel around those curves to do them properly. As fiddily as this maybe, it may well be worth a go.

B-17 - digging the engines! Got mine painted up, too, but not weathered yet. I've been a bit distracted by the George over the past few days as it's worked its way through the paint shop. That and I'm still waiting on the single-piece bomb bay from D-Molds and I'm investigating a custom mask for the octopus arms, so I haven't been rushing.

That said, I do have two small things to show PV-1 related.

First up...the super-sweet Ultracast wheels. Huge improvement over one of the few letdowns of the kit, especially in the tread department.

Next, the part I've been dreading more than any other...masking this ***. All the rounded corners on the windows. Ugh. Well, I read a tip somewhere a few days back about making small tape discs with a punch and using those to mask the curvy corners. Very fiddly to work with, but man, they work perfectly.

Engines painted!  Instructions called for a light grey crankshaft, but in black and white period photos I have, the crankshafts looked darker, so went with that. They still need a wash, but here they are! Next, fill seams and such before paint

Close up of one:

troublemaker66

Did you try without the acetate 1st? I`ve been able to stretch the film over some nice sized openings. Like I said, I used acetate to back the Betty`s bomb window,which.come to think of it, haven`t checked to see how it came out...just did and it`s a bit cloudier than if it was without acetate. Yours looks pretty good..may have to do one more coat to get it flush. Sometimes it takes forever for it to dry, especially if you go heavy. Looks like you went light..best way. I love this stuff!

Len

I did try it without first, and it kept retreating to the edges. A window half the size probably wouldn't have been an issue. Think you're right about another coat to get it flush with the surface...I'll see how it's coming along tonight.

I'm also totally planning to start using this stuff for instrument dials. One problem I've had glossing the dial faces is that all the glosses are very self-leveling, and raised-detail or color PE panels have enough texture that they mess up that uniform smoothness. A dot of this stuff, maybe thinned slightly with water, would give that nice flat surface. 

I usually use a tiny piece of Saran Wrap (cling food wrap).  I stretch it almost to the breaking point on the inside of the window frame, then make sure it is well secure, then I use Micro Crystal Clear on the outside of the window to build up two to three layers.   If you do it right, afterwards you just trim the saran wrap around the window frame and leave it for the extra support.  Using it lets you build up some very large windows if you have to.

Rich

 

[quote user="troublemaker66"]

DoogsATX

So instead of the Testors stuff I picked up a bottle of Micro Krystal Klear, which does the same things. The PV-1 windows are bigger than the max 1/4" stated, but a piece of acetate on the inside provided a nice support.

Things aren't done curing, but here's the window.

Did you try without the acetate 1st? I`ve been able to stretch the film over some nice sized openings. Like I said, I used acetate to back the Betty`s bomb window,which.come to think of it, haven`t checked to see how it came out...just did and it`s a bit cloudier than if it was without acetate. Yours looks pretty good..may have to do one more coat to get it flush. Sometimes it takes forever for it to dry, especially if you go heavy. Looks like you went light..best way. I love this stuff!

Len

[quote user="DoogsATX"]

So instead of the Testors stuff I picked up a bottle of Micro Krystal Klear, which does the same things. The PV-1 windows are bigger than the max 1/4" stated, but a piece of acetate on the inside provided a nice support.

Things aren't done curing, but here's the window.

Did you try without the acetate 1st? I`ve been able to stretch the film over some nice sized openings. Like I said, I used acetate to back the Betty`s bomb window,which.come to think of it, haven`t checked to see how it came out...just did and it`s a bit cloudier than if it was without acetate. Yours looks pretty good..may have to do one more coat to get it flush. Sometimes it takes forever for it to dry, especially if you go heavy. Looks like you went light..best way. I love this stuff!

Len

It should look good when totally dry Doogs.. I've done that trick before..

So instead of the Testors stuff I picked up a bottle of Micro Krystal Klear, which does the same things. The PV-1 windows are bigger than the max 1/4" stated, but a piece of acetate on the inside provided a nice support.

Things aren't done curing, but here's the window.

B17Pilot

 

DoogsATX:

 

- I'm leaving the gear struts out for now. They fit with the engine pods in place, so why put them in early? There's no reason.

 

 

Helps with painting a lot if they aren't attached.

I'm getting the engines all painted, though reading Doogs' post, I'm considering leaving them off and tacking on the engine cowls and front pieces till after painting, won't have to mask the engines.  Will have to check panel lines vs. seams to see if I can pull this off.

I'm certain you can - if anything you can assemble the cowl sides and forward ring, and drop those onto the pods after the fact. Very clean, good fit right there.

DoogsATX

- I'm leaving the gear struts out for now. They fit with the engine pods in place, so why put them in early? There's no reason.

Helps with painting a lot if they aren't attached.

I'm getting the engines all painted, though reading Doogs' post, I'm considering leaving them off and tacking on the engine cowls and front pieces till after painting, won't have to mask the engines.  Will have to check panel lines vs. seams to see if I can pull this off.

- I've ordered a single-piece bay doors from D-Mold. The four-piece chaos of the kit is very obviously designed for an open bay. Why they couldn't do a second, single piece is beyond me.

[/quote]Now...where`s the challenge with a single piece bay doors. After all, this is a Revell kit, there`s a certain amount of anger, frustration and swearing in every box....

Well, I've decided to give windowmaker a shot. Now I just need to pick some up. Thankfully I need to run to the LHS something fierce (need to put in an order for some PE for the Laffey, pick up some paint to tackle my first figure...) so hopefully they'll have some I can snag.

Some pretty major progress last night. The fuselage is together. The wings are mostly together (need to weld a few last spots) and the engine pods are tacked on front and rear. The engines and cowls are just taped in place at this point, and will be until after painting. Still trying to make up my mind if I want to wire up the engines or not, but it looks like they'll be pretty prominent, so I'm leaning toward yes.

A few pretty big exceptions from the instructions for those following along...

- I've left out the bomb deck. I'm planning a closed-bay build, so a well-sorted, perfectly installed bay is kind of pointless. Leaving the bay out for now also gives me access up into the fuselage, so I'll be able to install the astrodome long after painting. With some cutting of the portion up under the cockpit, I can also fit it after the fact and adjust it through the dorsal turret piece (which fits so tight it probably doesn't need to be glued at all).

- I'm leaving the gear struts out for now. They fit with the engine pods in place, so why put them in early? There's no reason.

- Wings are staying off until the end. They fit very well. Droop a bit unaided, but with some epoxy or something at the join, they'll hold just fine. Honestly, the weight of the fuselage once they're supported by the landing gear would probably be enough.

- I've ordered a single-piece bay doors from D-Mold. The four-piece chaos of the kit is very obviously designed for an open bay. Why they couldn't do a second, single piece is beyond me.

DoogsATX

troublemaker66:

 

LOL..Yeah, it kinda does!  You say you lost 1 little window?  Have you ever tried making your own with Testor`s white glue? I think the home made windows look better `cause they`re way thinner than the kit ones. I knocked 2 out of my Betty with no way of putting them back in  so, I made my own. If I can do it it`s gotta be a simple thing..lol. You could even try it on the Ventura while waiting for the new one and if you don`t like it, wipe it off.

 

 

So I just found out I have to jump through stupid 20th century hoops to get a new part (send the UPC from the box by mail to them? WTF? Should I use carrier pigeon or pony express? I wonder if smoke signals travel that far...), I'm inclined to try this method. Tell me more - the one time I tried to use this stuff before it was a fail since I could never get it to reach across the distance. What if I used a clear acetate backing in the square mount in the fuselage, then used Testors' clear parts cement from the outside, with that as a backing?

Unfortunately, that`s how Revell does it. Keeps the free parts requests down I suppose. Anyway...would be alot easier to show you than explain but, here I go...You have to puddle it a little on one end of the opening and kinda drag it  down one side while dragging across the opening, back and forth until you reach the other end of the opening. Once you have a film covering the entire opening, let it completely dry...it will dry absolutely clear. If it looks good to you,let it be. If not, you can put another layer right over the top of the 1st. You could back it with acetate, lost the Betty`s bomb aimer`s window and did just that,larger the hole, the harder it is to make the window. Don`t know if you can remove the acetate after drying...I would think no. It`s all a trial and error thing...once you see what you have to do to fill the window port,it`ll click in your brain and you`ll have it mastered in no time. Practice it a couple times on your "paint Mule"..if it has small windows. Once you get it down I think you`ll love it...dries perfectly clear. like real glass. Worth a shot anyway!

troublemaker66

 

LOL..Yeah, it kinda does!  You say you lost 1 little window?  Have you ever tried making your own with Testor`s white glue? I think the home made windows look better `cause they`re way thinner than the kit ones. I knocked 2 out of my Betty with no way of putting them back in  so, I made my own. If I can do it it`s gotta be a simple thing..lol. You could even try it on the Ventura while waiting for the new one and if you don`t like it, wipe it off.

 

So I just found out I have to jump through stupid 20th century hoops to get a new part (send the UPC from the box by mail to them? WTF? Should I use carrier pigeon or pony express? I wonder if smoke signals travel that far...), I'm inclined to try this method. Tell me more - the one time I tried to use this stuff before it was a fail since I could never get it to reach across the distance. What if I used a clear acetate backing in the square mount in the fuselage, then used Testors' clear parts cement from the outside, with that as a backing?

B17Pilot

troublemaker66:

...maybe a little PE if I can find some.

 

I won't mind a mask set from Eduard!  Good thing I already put the barrels in on mine, otherwise I would have to go get me a set and put them in.....but then it wouldn't be OOB anymore

Guess the next one will have all the goodies!

I`m not a big AM parts guy....half the time you can`t see it once everything is closed up.My Betty `pit is all PE but ya can`t really see it. I have the "Visible" B-17G That I`m planning on doing as a cut away and have every PE set made for it and been eyeballin` the resin sets for it. I never have much luck with mask sets...rather use Tamiya tape and cut `em myself.